IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0 


I.I 


11.25 


2.0 


U    11.6 


Hiotographic 

^Sciences 

Corporation 


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23  WIST  MAM  STMIT 

WffiUTM.N.Y.  USM 

(7I6)I72-4S03 


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CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICIVIH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


O^ 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notaa/Notas  tachniquaa  at  bibliographiquaa 


Tl 
to 


Tha  Inatituta  haa  attamptad  to  obtain  tha  baat 
original  copy  avaiiabia  for  filming.  Faaturaa  of  thia 
copy  which  may  ba  bibliographicaily  uniqua, 
which  may  altar  any  of  tha  imagaa  in  tha 
raproduction.  or  which  may  aignificantly  changa 
tha  uaual  mathod  of  filming,  ara  chackad  baiow. 


n 


D 


D 


Coloured  covara/ 
Couvartura  da  coulaur 


I     I    Covara  damaged/ 


Couverture  andommag^a 


Covara  reatorad  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  reatauria  at/ou  peliiculie 


pn    Cover  title  miaaing/ 


La  titre  de  couverture  manque 

Coloured  mapa/ 

Cartea  g^ographiquaa  en  couleur 

Coloured  inic  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
Encra  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 

Coloured  platea  and/or  iiluatrationa/ 
Planchaa  at/ou  iiluatrationa  en  couleur 


Bound  with  otiier  meterial/ 
RallA  avac  d'autrea  documenta 

Tight  binding  may  cauae  ahadowa  or  diatortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

La  re  liure  aerrde  peut  cauaar  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
diatortion  la  long  de  la  marge  IntArieure 

Blank  leavaa  added  during  reatoratlon  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  poaaible,  theae 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  ae  peut  que  certainea  pagea  blanchaa  ajout^ea 
lore  d'une  reatauration  apparaiaaant  dana  la  texte, 
mala,  loraqua  cela  itait  poaaible,  cea  pagea  n'ont 
pea  St6  filmAea. 


L'Inatitut  a  microfilm^  la  meilleur  exemplaira 
qu'il  lui  a  iti  poaaible  de  ae  procurer.  Lea  dAtaila 
de  cet  exemplaira  qui  aont  paut-Atre  uniquea  du 
point  da  vue  bibliographiqua,  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  image  laproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dana  la  m^thoda  normale  de  filmage 
aont  indiquto  ci-deaaoua. 


D 
D 
D 
0 
D 
0 
□ 
D 
D 
D 


Coloured  pagt'S/ 
Pagea  da  coulaur 

Pagea  damaged/ 
Pagea  andommagAea 

Pagea  reatorad  and/or  laminated/ 
Pagea  reataurAea  at/ou  pellicultea 

Pagea  diacoloured,  atainad  or  foxed/ 
Pagea  dAcoiortea,  tachettea  ou  piquAea 

Pagea  detached/ 
Pagea  dAtachtea 

Showthrough/ 
Tranaparance 

Quality  of  print  variea/ 
Qualit*  inAgala  de  I'impreaaion 

Includaa  aupplementary  material/ 
Comprand  du  material  aupplAmantaira 

Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Adition  diaponlble 

Pagea  wholly  or  partially  obacured  by  errata 
alipa,  tiaauaa,  etc.,  have  been  ref limed  to 
enaure  the  beat  poaaible  image/ 
Lea  pagea  totalement  ou  partiellement 
obacurciaa  par  un  feuillet  d'errata,  une  pelure, 
etc.,  ont  AtA  fiimAaa  A  nouveau  da  fa^on  A 
obtenir  la  meilleura  image  poaaible. 


Tl 

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fir 

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or 


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ah 
Tl 

wl 

M. 
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0 


Additional  ;ommenta:/ 
Commantairea  aupplAmantairaa; 


Irregular  pagination:   [1]- 12,  [15H2641p. 


Thia  item  la  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  eat  f  ilmA  au  taux  de  rAduction  indiquA  ci-deaaoua. 

10X  14X  18X  22X 


28X 


30X 


y 

3 

12X 


16X 


20X 


a4X 


28X 


32X 


The  copy  filmed  h«r«  has  b—n  reproduced  thanks 
to  the  generosity  of: 

D.B.W«ldon  Library 
University  of  Wttttrn  Ontario 

The  images  appearing  here  are  the  best  quaiity 
possible  considering  the  condition  and  iegibility 
of  the  original  copy  and  in  Iceeping  with  the 
filming  contract  specifications. 


Original  copies  in  printed  paper  covers  are  ^imed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, or  the  back  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  -^  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 

Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


L'exemplaire  filmA  f ut  reproduit  grAce  A  la 
g4n*rosit4  de: 

D.B.Waldon  Library 
Univariity  of  Wtstarn  Ontario 

Les  images  suivantes  ont  6t«  reproduites  B\t9c  le 
plus  grand  soin,  compte  tenu  de  la  condition  et 
de  la  nettetA  de  l'exemplaire  film*,  et  en 
conformity  avec  les  conditions  du  contrat  de 
filmage. 

Les  exemplaires  originaux  dont  la  couvertui^  en 
papier  est  imprim«e  sont  filmis  en  commenpant 
par  le  premier  plat  et  en  terminant  soit  par  la 
dernlAre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration,  soit  par  le  second 
plat,  salon  le  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exemplaires 
criginaux  sont  filmfo  en  commenpant  par  la 
premlAre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  derniire  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 

Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparaltra  sur  la 
derniire  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  le  symbols  — ^  signifie  "A  SUIVRE",  le 
symbols  V  signifie  "FIN". 

Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  Atre 
filmAs  A  des  taux  de  reduction  diffArents. 
Lorsque  Se  document  est  trop  grand  pour  Atre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  clichA,  11  est  filmA  A  partir 
de  Tangle  supArieur  gauche,  de  gauche  A  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  nAcessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrent  la  mAthode. 


1 

2 

3 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

By  JOHN   HABBERTON. 


I.     OTHER    PEOPLE'S   CHILDREN. 

By  the  author  of  "Holen'Rniibios,"    .     .     31  js 

IT      BUDGE    AND    TODDIE.      An    III,,,. 

trated  E.litioa  of  "  Other  People's  Children,"  1  75 

III.  THE      SCRIPTURE       CLUB       OF 

VALLEY     REST;      or,    Sketches    of 
Lveryhody-B  Neighlwrs, j  „y 

IV.  THE    BARTON    EXPERIMENT,.     100 


a.    P.    PUTXAMS   S')\s,    Puhimer.,. 

A'eio  i'ort. 


.^' 


4 


•Tf 


'% 


Canoeing  in  Kanuckia 


OR 


HAPS    AND    MISHAPS 


AFLOAT     AND     ASHORE 


OK 


THE   STATESMAN.   THE    EDITOR.  THE 
ARTIST,  AND   THE   SCRIHBLER 


RECORDED    nv 

THE     COMMODORE     AND     THE     COOK 

(C.    L.    NORTON   AND   JOHN    HABHERTON) 


ILLUSTRATED 


G. 


NEW    YORK 
^'    PUTNAM'S    SONS 
182  Fifth  Avenue 
1878. 


\2-*5'5\ 


Copyright  by  G.  P.  Potmam  's  Sons,  1878. 


;ll 


DEDICATION. 


THIS 

VOLUME 


APFECTIONATKLY    INSCK.HKI.   TO   TIIK   MHMORY    OF 

KING    CANUTE, 

WHO   TOOK 


ROYAL    DUCKING 

M'lTH     AN     EQUANIMITY    WHICH     FAIRLY     ENTITLES 
HIM     TO     RECOGNITION 


BY 


THE    CANOE    CLUB. 


^^1 


PREFACE. 


MELANCHOLY  as  the  admission  must  necessarily 
be  to  persons  with  aspirations  toward  literary 
Art,  the  authors  are  forced  to  acknowledge  that  most 
of  the  incidents  recounted  therein  actually  occurred  dur- 
ing a  canoeing  cruise  to  the  Northward,  in  which  they 
were  participants  ;  that  the  localities  described  have  a 
geographical  existence,  and  that  the  persons  introduced 
and  the  experiences  recorded  are,  with  trifling  exceptions, 
true  to  the  life.  They  frankly  admit  that  they  might  not 
have  been  so  truthful  had  they  suffered  from  lack  of  in- 
cident, but  their  perplexities  have  arisen  from  too  much 
good  material  instead  of  too  little.  Departures  from 
strict  veracity  have  been  made  solely  on  the  ground  of 
good  fellowship. 

The  authors  being  blessed  with  ordinary  human  per- 
ception, it  is  not  strange  that  they  fully  realize  their  own 
superiority  to  their  companions  in  point  of  virtue,  manli- 
ness, good-seamanship,  personal  appearance,  adaptability, 
etc..  etc.  They  have  thought  it  simply  honorable,  there- 
fore, to  separate  individual  traits  and  experiences,  each  by 


PREFACE. 


i  s 


'  I. 


themselves,  and  redistribute  them  without  prejudice  or 
partiality  among  the  entire  quartette. 

As  the  effect  of  this  generosity  has  been  to  cause  some 
doubt  on  the  part  of  each  member  of  the  expedition  as 
to  his  own  personal  identity,  it  is  certain  that  no  one  of 
them  can  be  successfully  reconstructed  by  any  outsider. 
How  unalloyed  a  blessing  the  public  thus  enjoys,  is  not 
for  the  self-renouncing  authors  to  point  out  in  detail. 


P.  S.  BY  THE  Cook.  It  has  been  found  impractica- 
ble to  prevent  the  Commodore  from  causing  to  be  in- 
serted in  the  following  pages  certain  efforts  of  his  own 
which  he  is  pleased  to  denominate  "  Sketches."  He  is 
apparently  actuated  by  the  hope  that  they  will  pass  for 
professional  work.  The  real  Artist  of  the  expedition, 
however,  being  solicitous  regarding  his  own  reputation, 
wishes  it  distinctly  understood  that  he  is  responsible  only 
Tor  those  illustrations  which  are  signed  by  him  in  full,  and 
has  deputed  the  Cook  to  warn  the  public  to  this  effect. 


\[ 


n 


i[ 


CONTENTS, 

« 

Introduction 'ag» 

••••     15 

I. 

Getting  under  way 

21 

II. 
Cooks  and  Coffee  Pots  and  Seamanship  . . 

38 

III. 
The  Cook  studies  Navigation 

49 

The  Wreck  of  the  Rochefort 

• 68 

V. 
Sunshine  and  Shadow  .. 

80 

VI. 
Mv  Native  Land  Farewell 

88 

VII. 

Garrison  Life 

Ill 

I  HE  Beginning  of  Acadia 

' •   i«9 


4 


m 


i 


lO  CONTENTS. 

IX.  PAGB 

Areas  of  Rain 145 

X. 

Acadia 166 

XI. 
Several  Other  Days i8i 

XII. 
A  Change  ok  Scene 206 

XIII. 
Swift  Water 212 

XIV. 
More  Rapids 223 

XV. 
The  Beginning  of  the  End  .... 229 

Appendix 240 


LIST    OF   ILLUSTRATIONS. 


PACt 

1.  The  Cook  Jibes 2 

2.  The  Authors 20 

3.  Mile.  Rochefort  at  home 22 

4.  Chrysalis  and  Chrysalid 23 

5.  The  Twins    24 

6.  Kayak  Birch,  Rob  Roy 26 

7.  Under  full  sail — Chrysalid 28 

8.  Close  hauled.      Red  Laker 30 

g.  The  Quartette 32 

ro.  The  local  Small-boy 33 

1 1.  Coffee  Pot  before 43 

12.  Coffee  Pot  after 44 

13.  A  Sporhungan 46 

14.  The  Sanctuary 48 

15.  The  Cook  selects  a  Boom 50 

16.  Gosh 57 

1 7.  The  Vice's  Boom  toggle 58 

18.  The  Commodore's  Sprit 5g 

19.  Island  Camp 61 

20.  A  Vigorous  Pull 63 

21.  A  little  too  vigorous 65 

22.  Aquatic  Leap  frog 66 

23.  "  His  ship  she  was  a  wrack  " 69 

24.  The  Cook's  Tent 78 

25.  Green  grow  the  rushes 83 

26.  **  But  the  Consul's  brow  was  sad  " 89 

27.  The  United  States  Garrison 93 

28.  The  Purser  on  British  Soil 94 

29.  A  Canoe  Seat 99 


12 


ILLUSTRATIONS. 


PAGB 

30.  The  Picturesque  afar lOT 

31.  The  Picturesque  anear 103 

32.  Wahu  ei 104 

33.  Supper  Table 107 

34.  An  unknown  Fortress I12 

35.  The  British  Garrison 115 

36.  The  Sally  Port 116 

37.  The  Vampire  Bat 118 

38.  The  Commandant 120 

3g.  The  Commandant's  Lady 122 

40.  The  Dock 133 

41.  Under  the  Elms 139 

42.  The  Enchantress 142 

43.  Boat,  Aristocratic 146 

44.  Boat,  Plebeian 146 

45.  The  Commodore  Weather-bound 147 

46.  Aux  Armes  Citoyennes 153 

47.  Alone  with  his  Conscience ; 159 

48.  The  Typical  Church 161 

49.  Water  Front 168 

50.  Down  the  Rapids 170 

51.  No  Ruins  in  America  (Raskin) 174 

52.  Canadian  Loaf,  etc 171 

53.  A  Quiet  Cove 177 

54.  A  Charming  Landscape 186 

55.  A  shock  to  the  Commodore's  Nerves 188 

56.  Use  Laundry  Soap  and  be  Happy 205 

57.  Down  the  Race 210 

58.  In  the  Second  Rapids 208 

59.  The  Vice  sits  for  his  Portrait 2i8 

60.  Comparative  Coffee  Cups 226 


INTRODUCTORY. 


G 


O  see  her  ?— certainly  I  will!  "  said  the  Artist. 
"  So  will  I !  "  exclaimed  the  Scribbler,  jumping 
to  his  feet  and  rearranging  his  neck-tie ;  '*  if  she  is 
half  as  beautiful  as  you  say,  I'd  go  every  day  to 
see  her,  even  were  the  trip  twice  the  score  of  miles 
that  it  is." 

"  And  I,"  said  the  Editor,  replacing  in  his  vest-pocket 
the  folding-scissors  which  he  nervously  fingered  by  force 
of  professional  habit. 

*• 'Tis  done,  then,"  said  the  Statesman,  "she  will  be 
at  my  house  to-morrow  evening  and  the  winter  through, 
but  she  is  particularly  handsome  and  graceful  just  now, 
and  there's  no  time  like  the  present,  you  know.  Dine 
with  me  to-morrow  evening:  I'll  give  you  a  tip-top 
spread,  but  when  you  see  her  you'll  forget  it  all." 

"  We  will  come ! "  shouted  the  Artist,  the  Scribbler 
and  the  Editor  in  chorus,  and  when  twenty-four  hours 
later  the  trio  fulfilled  their  promise,  they  admitted  that 
the  half  had  not  been  told  them.  They  exhibited  how- 
ever, none  of  that  unseemly  jealousy  which  would  natu- 
rally be  expected  from  a  trio  of  admirers  at  sight  of  an 


i6 


NTRODUCTOkY. 


i'^ 


i¥. 


almost  phenomenal  beauty,  for  the  object  of  their  admi. 
ration  was  a  canoe,  and  accepted  their  attentions  with  an 
impartiality  which  would  have  been  the  envy  of  any 
society  queen.  She  occupied  the  study  of  the  Statesman, 
and  covered  almost  as  much  space  as  if  she  were  a  lady 
with  a  train  of  the  first  magnitude  ;  she  was  in  every  line 
the  embodiment  of  grace,  and  her  beauty  was  not  entirely 
independent  of  paint  and  other  cosmetics.  But  here  the 
parallel  ceased.  In  visiting  a  canoe  the  visitor  enjoys 
certain  liberties  which  are  not  admissible  during  an 
ordinary  evening  call.  A  gentleman  may  speak  in  most 
enthusiastic  praise  of  a  canoe,  and  right  to  her  face,  with- 
out being  suspected  of  a  desire  to  flirt ;  he  may  criticise 
freely  without  seeming  unmannerly  ;  he  may  even  talk 
admiringly  of  other  canoes  without  disturbing  the  out- 
ward or  inward  complacency  of  his  fair  entertainer.  He 
may  even  unlock  his  wits  with  a  good  cigar  without  pro- 
voking a  cough  from  the  fair  being,  and  without  compel- 
ling her  to  send  her  finer  adornments  to  the  bleachery 
next  day,  or  expose  them  on  the  family  clothes-line,  to  the 
purifying  breezes  of  heaven.  One  may  look  fixedly  by 
the  hour  at  a  beautiful  canoe  without  being  guilty  of  un- 
gentlemanly  staring,  and  may  thus  call  up  all  those  finer 
sentiments  which  far  transcend  the  powers  of  expres- 
sion, and  may  thus  elevate  his  own  nature  to  a  degree 
which  is  unattainable  under  the  restrictions  of  a  fashiona- 
ble call.  He  may  without  offence  or  even  discourtesy, 
touch  her,  though  if  he  be  a  man  of  true  character  he  can 


I'll 

i .   ^ 


INTRODUCTORY. 


17 


not  do  so  without  a  struggle  with  natural  timidity,  and 
without  a  new  sense  of  his  own  awkwardness. 

The  quartette  gazed,  and  smoked,  until  the  fair  out- 
line before  them  became  veiled  in  the  soft  haze  which  so 
enhances  the  glories  of  a  perfect  form  and  a  rich  com- 
plexion. They  talked,  they  mused,  they  talked  again  ; 
che  Artist,  the  Scribbler  and  the  Editor  talked  of  their 
own  special  darlings  of  the  same  genus.  They  mused 
again,  then  they  fell  once  more  to  admiring.  The  one 
blot  upon  the  perfection  of  the  being  before  them  was 
that  her  sole  guardian  had  christened  her  *'  Rochefort," 
but  the  Statesman,  like  statesmen  in  general,  had  his  weak- 
nesses, and  if  men  cannot  be  tenderly  enduring  of  the 
weaknesses  of  their  friends,  what  statesman  can  live?  At 
length  the  Rochefort's  protector  broke  silence  by  saying, 

"  Can  you  fellows  gaze  upon  her,  and  talk  of  her  ri- 
vals, and  then  refuse  to  go  on  a  cruise  this  summer  ?  " 

•'  Not  I !  "  exclaimed  the  Editor. 

"  Refuse  ?  "  exclaimed  the  Scribbler,  and  then  he  be- 
trayed his  Hibernian  ancestry  by  adding,  *'  I'd  go  alone, 
for  the  sake  of  having  her  with  me." 

"  And  I  know  just  where  to  go,"  said  the  Artist.  "  I 
know  of  a  picturesque  lake  whose  outlet  is  a  placid  river 
flowing  through  an  Acadia  like  that  which  Longfellow 
has  pictured,  and  breaking  at  last  into  wild  rapids  down 
which  we  can  run  like  salmon  in  the  fall." 

"Is  Evangeline  still  there?"  asked  the  Statesman, 
with  symptoms  of  lively  interest. 


i8 


INTRODUCTORY. 


"  She  is  every  where,"  reph'ed  the  Artist. 

"Why,"  said  the  Statesman,  examining  his  mental 
memoranda,  "  she  died  two  centuries  ago." 

"  She  is  perennial,"  answered  the  Artist,  and  the  States- 
man inwardly  cursed  his  own  hieral  perceptives. 

'*  Let's  take  our  sentiment  when  we  are  there,"  sug- 
gested the  Editor  ;  "  this  is  the  hour  for  action." 

The  conversation  which  ensued  need  not  be  detailed 
here.  It  would  consume  so  much  ink  and  paper  as  ma- 
terially to  raise  the  price  of  these  staples.  It  is  sufficient 
to  say  that  the  quartette  silenced  forever  the  calumnious 
statement  that  only  ladies  talk  two  or  three  at  a  tims, 
and  that  the  necessary  supplies  decided  upon  for  the  trip 
exceeded  in  bulk  the  cargo  of  that  most  capacious  vessel, 
the  Mayflower. 


'i 


M 


K 


CANOEING  IN  KANUCKIA. 


GETTING   UNDER  WAY. 

ALL  night  the  Statesman,  the  Editor,  the  Artist  and 
the  Scribbler  had  been  rumbHng  northward  in  a  sleej)- 
ing  car,  and  as  day  dawned  the  steady  and  quickened 
clank  of  wheels  told  that  they  were  on  a  down  grade 
toward  the  Lake,  and  nearing  the  point  where  vacation 
was  really  to  begin.  They  had  turned  into  their  respect- 
ive berths  somewhere  south  of  Albany  ;  they  awoke  and 
looked  down  from  a  precipitous  hillside  into  the  clear 
Lake.  Presently  the  train  slowed  and  in  another  minute 
they  were  questioning  the  station-master  about  their 
canoes,  which  had  preceded  them  as  freight  some  days 
before. 

"No,  can't  wait  till  after  breakfast.  Must  see  them 
now." 

So  the  station-master  rather  reluctantly  unlocked  his 
freight  room  and  there  in  a  row  side  by  side  lay  the  "  Red 
Lakers"  and  the  "  Chrysalids,"  for  all  the  world  like  two 
pairs  of  twins  tucked  in  a  big  bed  together.  For  the 
station-master — bless   him  ! — had   thoughtfully  spread  a 


;  1 


e 

c 


o 

c 


.  ..t.iiii 


iwniniH^^N^ 


CHRYSALIS  AND  CIIRYSALID. 


23 


tarpaulin  over  them  so  that  only  their  darling  noses  were 
in  sight. 

It  should  here  be  explained  that  the  terms  "  Red 
Lake  "  and  Chrysalid  "  designate  certain  models  of  ca- 
noes, the  first  being  named  for  the  locality  where  the 
canoes  are  built,  while  the  appropriateness  of  the  second 
must  be  evident  from  the  accompanying  sketch. 

Let  the    Expcditionis   Pcrsomv  now   be   introduced. 


Chrysalis  and  Chrysalid. 

Behold  the  Becky  Sharp  (flag-ship)  and  the  Cherub, 
commanded  respectively  by  the  Editor  and  the  Scrib- 
bler, and  constituting  the  "  First  Division."  Behold  also 
the  "Rochefort"  and  the  "  Arethusela  "*  forming 

*  The  .irtist  begs  the  authors  to  explain  that  this  name  is  the  result  of 
a  compromise  between  the  friends  of^wo  domestic  cats  "Arabella  "  and 
"  Methusela,"  neither  of  whom  would  consent  to  have  the  boat  named  ex- 
clusively after  the  other. 


■■[  i 


THE  ARTIST   SPEAKS. 


25 


the  Second  Division,  and  commanded  by  the  Statesman 
and  the  Artist. 

Over  the  meeting  between  each  man  and  his  canoe 
a  veil  is  delicately  drawn.  Even  the  station-master  con- 
siderately stepped  out  upon  the  platform  during  the  few 
moments  when  each  metaphorically  made  his  canoe  put 
out  its  tongue  and  answer  questions  as  to  its  moral  and 
physical  well-being.  The  interview  was  satisfactory 
to  all  save  the  Statesman,  who  detected  several  minute 
scratches  on  the  deck  of  the  Rochefort  and  declared  that 
palpable  demoralization  had  resulted  from  her  enforced 
association  with  Red  Lakers. 

The  Artist  having  volunteered  to  stay  by  the  boats 
while  his  companions  breakfasted  at  the  neighboring 
tavern,  was  straightway  beset  by  a  number  of  wayfarers 
who  demanded  full  accounts  of  the  canoes  and  of  canoeing 
in  general.  The  Artist  had  been  in  the  lecture  field,  and 
as  the  spirit  was  strong  upon  him,  he  gave  the  assembled 
multitude  (about  a  dozen  in  all)  a  comprehensive  account 
of  the  art.  No  reporter  was  present,  but  his  remarks  are 
believed  to  have  been  about  as  follows : 

"  In  the  civilized  acceptation  of  the  term,  gentlemen," 
(here  the  six  small  boys  who  composed  a  fraction  of  the 
audience  punched  one  another  in  the  ribs,)  modern  canoe- 
ing dates  back  only  a  few  years, — some  fifteen  in  England 
and  half  as  many  in  America.  Its  acknowledged  progeni- 
tor is  Mr.  John  Macgregor,  an  English  barrister  to  whom 
was  vouchsafed  the  brilliant  idea  of  crossinsf  the  canoe  of 


w 


:| 


26 


CANOEING   IN   KANUCKIA. 


the  North  American  Indian  with  the  Esquimaux  Kayak, 
for  purposes  c  f  civilized  recreation,  the  product  being  a 
hybrid  known  as  the  Rob  Roy  model.  (Here  the  speaker 
seized  the  station-master's  chalk  and  drew  rapidly  upon 
the   wall  in  illustration  of  his  meaning.)     Although  the 


Kayak— Birch— Rob-Roy. 

canoe  exists  among  all  savage  nations,  it  reached  its 
greatest  perfection  for  inland  and  coastwise  navigation 
among  the  North  American  Indians.  The  *  birch,'  as 
it  is  familiarly  called,  is  so  nearly  perfect  for  use  on  forest 
streams  that  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  after  various 
experiments  with  wood  and  iron,  settled  down,  years  ago, 
to  its  almost  exclusive  use  for  their  vast  transportation 
service  extending  throughout  the  British  American  Pos- 
sessions. The  Kayak,  built  as  it  is  of  a  light  frame  with 
skin  stretched  over  it,  has  less  weight  and  more  strength 
than  the  birch,  and  as  it  is  all  covered  over  excepting  a 
man-hole  amidships,  it  is  evidently  the  more  seaworthy  of 
the  two.  It  has,  however,  no  carrying  capacity  to  speak 
of,  beyond  its  crew  of  one." 

\ 


THE  ARTISTS   LECTURE. 


27 


"A  different  craft  from  either  of  these  is  required  for 
the  use  of  the  civilized  voyager.  He  wants  a  boat  which 
will  not,  like  the  birch,  leak  if  it  happens  to  touch  bottom. 
He  wants  one  which  will  retain  its  buoyancy  even  when 
full  of  water ;  which  at  a  pinch  he  can  carry  alone  across  a 
portage  ;  which  is  roomy  enough  to  sleep  in,  large  enough 
to  carry  stores  and  equipments  for  a  reasonable  number 
of  days,  staunch  and  seaworthy  in  any  weather  when  it 
is  pleasant  to  be  on  the  water,  and  readily  obedient  to 
his  hand  under  sail  or  paddle. 

"  No  doubt  Mr.  Macgregor  drew  his  first  inspiration 
from  the  two  barbarian  models  referred  to.  He  designed 
a  boat  known  as  the  *  Rob-Roy,*  which  was  easy  to  pad- 
dle, which  could  be  slept  in,  and  in  which  he  made  many 
long  cruises.  It  was,  however,  decidedly  faulty  in  many 
particulars,  being  wet  and  uncomfortable  in  a  sea-way, 
owing  to  its  lack  of  *  sheer  ;'  it  was  also  of  small  sailing  ca- 
pacity. In  smooth  water,  the  *  Rob-Roy  *  has  its  advanta- 
ges, but  for  general  purposes  the  '  Nautilus'  model  is  de- 
cidedly its  superior.  This  was  designed  by  Mr.  Baden 
Powell,  another  Englishman,  who  improved  on  Mr.  Mac- 
gregor's  model  by  giving  his  boat  greater  *  bearings,*  that 
is,  a  broader  and  flatter  bottom,  that  of  the  original  Rob 
Roy  being  nearly  semi-circular,  and  by  raising  her  lines 
at  stem  and  stern  so  that  it  was  nearly  impossible  to  drive 
her  nose  under  in  a  sea-way.  This  made  her  very  diffi- 
cult to  manage  under  paddle  with  the  wind  abeam, 
so    in    subsequent    plans    the    sheer    was    considerably 


1 1 


THE  ARTIST  S   LECTURE. 


29 


reduced,  and    the  change   proved    to   be  a  decided  im- 
provement. 

**  The  *  Chrysalids  '  (here  the  speaker  indicated  the 
Arethusela  and  the  Rochefort)  are  variations  of  the 
Nautilus  type.  You  perceive  at  a  glance  their  great 
superiority  in  every  particular  over  the  *  Red  Laker ' 
(pointing  to  the  Cherub  and  the  Becky  Sharp)  which 
lie  beside  them,  and  which  are  merely  elaborate  copies 
of  the  Indian  birch  made  of  wood  and  rigged  for  cruising. 
I  will  draw  for  you  a  Chrysalid  under  sail."  (The  Artist 
turned  again  to  his  extemporized  black-board  and  with  a 
few  rapid  strokes  produced  the  sketch  on  page  28. 

Meanwhile  the  local  population  had  dropped  in  one 
by  one,  until  he  had  a  respectable  audience,  and  the 
Scribbler,  who  had  finished  his  breakfast  and  drawn  near, 
began  to  consider  the  expediency  of  taking  up  a  collec- 
tion. 

"  You  see  how  ship-shape  she  is  in  all  respects,  (ap- 
plause, the  Artist  bowing,)  I  will  now,  in  order  that  my 
fellow  voyagers  may  not  accuse  me  of  partiality,  show  you 
also  a  Red  Laker  under  sail."  Again  the  station-master's 
chalk  was  in  requisition,  and  presently  a  sketch  something 
like  this  adorned  the  wall.  As  the  Artist  was  proceeding, 
a  youth  near  the  door,  who,  the  Artist  vows,  had  been 
bribed  by  the  Scribbler,  checked  him  with, "  I  say,  mister, 
that  there  Red  Laker  makes  the  best  looking  picter  of  the 
two,  don't  it?" 

The  Artist  had  not  compared  his  illustrations,  and  on 


m 


THE  ARTIST   CEASES. 


".I 


<J 

/;/   " 

111 
«j 
in 
O 


glancing  at  them,  was  obliged  to  explain  that  certain 
peculiarities  of  outline  assuredly  did  give  a  false  impres- 
sion in  this  instance  : — However,"  he  went  on  easily,  re- 
suming the  imperturbable  manner  which  had  become 
habitual  with  him  in  the  desk,  "  as  I  was  about  to  say, 
having  thus  become  Anglicized,  it  was  merely  a  question 
of  time  how  soon  the  modern  and  improved  canoe  should 
be  re-naturalized  in  America.  It  was  introduced  in  1872 
by  Mr.  W.  L.  Alden,  founder  and  senior  member  of  the 
New  York  Canoe  Club,  an  association  to  which  the  boats 
before  you  belong,  and  which  now  has  a  fleet  of  about 
thirty  canoes,  and  a  somewhat  larger  number  of  active 
and  honorary  members." 

The  Artist  ceased  and  the  Scribbler  led  off  in  a  round 
of  applause,  which  was  however,  but  feebly  seconded. 

Breakfast  over,  the  quartette  donned  their  blue  flan- 
nels and  sauntered  down  to  the  shore,  followed  by  a 
curious  throng  of  the  inhabitants.  (N.  B.  The  throng  of 
inhabitants  is  seen  at  the  right.) 

The  Lake,  which  at  an  early  hour  had  been  placid  as 
a  anglican  sermon,  was,  by  the  time  the  fleet  was  ready 
to  start,  breaking  furiously  against  the  wharf  before  a 
northerly  breeze  and  the  mariners  were  glad  to  launch 
and  stow  their  canoes  under  the  lee  of  the  railway  bridge, 
and  the  critical  supervision  of  the  local  small-boy. 

For  six  months  the  four  comrades  had  made  prepara- 
tions for  the  cruise,  but  the  knowledge  which  worketh 
experience  worked  also  calamity,  for  the   stores  which 


ii 


THE   LOCAL   SMALL   BOY. 


33 


were  unloaded  from  steamboats  and  express  cars  on  the 
shore  of  the  lake,  would  have  justified  each  captain  of  a 
canoe  in  chartering  a  steamer  of  moderate  dimensions  as 


iliUS^^') 


/  I.-.t::^ 


The  Local  Small  Boy. 

a  tender.  As  such  a  course  would  have  tended  to  the 
destruction  of  the  picturesqueness  of  the  squadron  under 
sail,  it  was  given  up  without  a  murmur,  so  the  quartette, 
each  man  for  himself,  proceeded  to  the  exasperating  duty 
of  deciding  what  he  best  could  spare  and  return.  The 
Statesman  decided  against  carrying  a  tent,  a  tin  pail,  a 
couple  of  hundred  weight  of  canned  goods,  a  life- 
preserver,  a  Bible  and  a  looking-glass  which  he  had 
brought  with  him,  but  retained  a  double-barrelled  eun, 
a  twenty-pound  bag  of  duck-shot  and  a  volume  of  Tup- 
per's  •'  Proverbial  Philosophy." 

"If  your  boat  springs  a  leak,  no  earthly  power  can 
save  her,  with  such  a  cargo,"  said  the  Editor. 

"  ril  keep  the  shot  where  I  can  drop  it  overboard  in 
such  case,"  briskly  replied  the  Statesman. 


'I, 

i 

.•■\ 


34 


CANOEING   IN   KANUCKIA. 


it 


n  I 


mW 


I'':       I': 


Pi 


"What  good  will  that  do?"  asked  the  Editor,  ••  if  the 
Tupper  remains  on  board  ?  " 

"  The  Tupper  will  make  a  capital  anchor,  though," 
suggested  the  Artist,  as  he  reluctantly  laid  upon  a  heap, 
to  be  returned,  a  field  easel,  a  camp-stool,  a  medicine- 
chest,  a  set  of  Shakespeare  in  three  volumes,  and  a 
demijohn,  the  latter,  by  some  deplorable  oversight,  having 
arrived  empty.  The  Scribbler  carefully  inspected  two 
bulky  portmanteaus,  extracted  therefrom  a  single  change 
of  underclothing,  a  box  of  cigars,  a  tooth-brush  and  a 
comb,  and  returned  the  bags  with  their  contents.  The 
Editor  concluded  that  perhaps  he  might  be  safe  in  Aca- 
dia without  the  copy  of  Webster's  Dictionary  which  he 
had  brought  thus  far  in  several  thicknesses  of  rubber 
cloth,  and  a  mental  survey  of  the  proposed  route  con- 
vinced him  that  he  might  dispense  with  his  faithful 
scissors  and  paste-pot,  inasmuch  as  no  newspaper  was 
published  on  either  the  Lake  or  the  River,  but  he  stowed 
in  his  boat  a  gold  headed-cane  and  a  horse-pistol,  ex- 
plaining, as  he  did  so, 

"  These  are  the  interviewer's  only  faithful  friends." 

The  individual  property  thus  rejected,  with  the  su- 
perfluous stores  which  had  been  purchased  fn  bloc  by 
the  quartette,  threatened  for  a  little  while  to  cause  a 
"  corner  "  in  freight  cars,  but  a  threat  to  charter  several 
steamers  which  were  idle  upon  the  Lake  brought  the 
railway  agent  to  his  senses,  and  gave  his  Company  an 
excuse  to  put  upon   Wall  Street  a  story  of  sudden  in- 


\ 


APrOkTIONMENT   OF   TITIKS. 


35 


crease  of  gross  earnings.  The  rejected  cargoes  were 
stowed,  and  then  the  Editor,  calling  his  companions 
apart  from  the  immense  crowd  of  gazers  and  listeners,  said, 

"Gentlemen,  by  virtue  of  long  experience  as  a  fight- 
ing editor,  I  hereby  assume  command  of  this  expedition, 
and  propose  to  be  obeyed  and  respected  accordingly. 
I  detail  the  Statesman  as  Vice-commodore,  commanding 
the  Second  Division." 

"  Vice,"  murmured  the  Artist,  "  what  an  ideal  title 
for  a  Statesman  !  " 

The  Commodore  continued,  *'  The  Artist  I  appoint 
urser — 

"  What  delicious  sarcasm  !  "  interrupted  the  newly 
appointed  Vice;  "the  idea  of  an  Artist  taking  care  of 
money  !     Judas  and  his  bag  are  nowhere." 

"  And  the  Scribbler,"  resumed  the  Commodore,  "  will 
be  Cook,  a  position  to  which  his  experience  in  concoct- 
ing literary  hash  most  richly  entitles  him.  During  the 
cruise  all  family,  baptismal  and  social  names  will  be 
dropped,  and  the  memb'^rs  of  the  expedition  will  be 
known  only  by  their  nautical  titles.  Is  every  one  ready 
to  embark  ?  " 

"Ready  !"  replied  the  Vice,  the  Purser  and  the  Cook 
in  chorus  ;  the  paddles  were  seized,  and  the  Commodore 
was  giving  the  command  "  Shove  off!"  when  the  Vice 
exclaimed, 

"  Gracious  !  how  could  I  have  forgotten  it  ?  "  Then 
he  ran  to  the  pile  of  rejected  material  and  rescued  sa 


II 


-I    J       I         f 


:!i  liv'i 


36 


CANOEING  IN  KANUCKIA. 


i  ,■ 


immense  brown  paper  parcel  containinj^  sometliing  which 
seemed  to  be  instinct  with  every  ani^ie  and  line  known 
to  the  student  of  conic  sections.  Hurriedly  stowinGf  it 
away  in  his  forward  compartment,  he  shoved  his  boat 
from  the  beach. 

*'  What  is  it  ?  "  shouted  the  fleet. 

"  It  was  a  present  to  me  from  a  constituent,"  roared 
he,  at  the  top  of  his  lurfgs,  the  wind  whisking  away  his 
words.     "  That's  what  it  is." 

This  was  accepted  as  a  diplomatic  and  statesmanlike 
way  of  saying  "  None  of  your  business,"  so  the  rest  held 
their  peace,  and^ave  themselves  to  the  serious  work  of 
making  headway  against  the  sea. 

'Tis  ever  thus !  Never  have  any  of  the  Four  start- 
ed on  a  cruise  without  having  at  the  very  beginning  to 
tax  their  as  yet  unaccustomed  muscles  by  paddling 
straight  in  the  teeth  of  an  adverse  gale.  Of  course  the 
canoes  are  at  their  heaviest  and  must  be  expected  to  leak 
more  or  less  after  a  fortnight's  baking  in  a  box-car.  So 
when  all  are  ready  the  command  paddles  round  through 
the  draw,  points  toward  a  headland  three  miles  off  dead  to 
windward,  and  doggedly  settles  dov/n  to  its  work.  It  takes 
nearly  two  hours  to  cover  the  distance,  and  the  Chrysalids 
have  had  to  bail  at  frequent  intervals  under  the  protect- 
ing care  of  Red  Lakers.  The  headland  is  reached  at 
last,  however,  and  then  comes  the  bath  for  which  all  have 
been  longing.  If  any  future  explorer  finds  an  unaccount- 
able deposit  of  cinders  and  scoriae  off  that  point  he  may 


I 


THE   ENCAMPMENT. 


37 


ascribe  them,  if  lie  likes,  to  prehistoric  volcanic  convul- 
sions, but  the  four  voyagers  know  better. 

It  was  now  noon,  and  a  substantial  luncheon  was  fol- 
lowed by  a  long  siesta  under  the  cedars,  while  lungs  ac- 
customed to  inhale  the  de-oxidized  atmosphere  of  the 
city  filled  themselves  with  the  first  draughts  of  ozone 
from  the  great  paradise  of  spruce  which  strctch«  s  I'.most 
unbroken  from  the  Canada  line  to  the  Arctic  circle. 
Grand  mountain  forms  rose  against  the  sky,  the  city  was 
far  away  ;  they  were  free  ! 

The  sun  lacked  but  three  hours  of  setting,  when  the 
squadron  shook  off  the  delicious  languor  that  succeeded 
its  unwonted  exertions,  bailed  out  the  Chrysalids,  now 
thoroughly  soaked,  and  in  a  condition  which  their  owners 
were  pleased  to  consider  "  tight,"  wiped  up  with  a  sponge 
the  few  drops  that  had  penetrated  the  seams  of  the  Red 
Lakers,  and  paddled  merrily  away  toward  an  island  blue 
in  the  afternoon  haze,  on  which  it  had  been  determined  to 
camp  over  Sunday.  The  lake  was  by 'this  time  ashamed 
of  the  boisterous  welcome  it  had  given  to  the  fleet,  and 
was  undergoing  a  burnishing  process  preparatory  to  serv- 
ing as  a  mirror  for  the  sunset.  By  dusk  camp  was  made 
in  a  lean-to  left  by  some  considerate  predecessors.  The 
canoes  were  anchored  in  the  lee  of  a  shingly  point,  ex- 
cepting the  Rochefort,  which  her  commander  carefully, 
and  for  some  inscrutable  parliamentary  reason,  anchored 
to  windward,  and  by  nine  o'clock  all,  with  one  exception, 
were  rolled  in  their  blankets,  and  sound  asleep. 


I 


IH 


■lii  ; 


Li  1 .1.; 
1:11 


t  d: 


m 


II. 


COOKS    AND    COFFEE    POTS    AND    SEAMAN- 
SHIP. 

AS  is  the  case  in  all  well  regulated  families,  the  Cook 
was  the  first  person  to  greet  the  morning  of  the  sec- 
ond day.  He  not  only  did  so,  but  he  greeted  it  in  its 
extreme  infancy,  an  instant  after  his  own  watch,  had  it 
been  a  repeater,  would  have  struck  midnight,  and  iVom 
this  moment  onward  he  manifested  the  liveliest  interest 
in  the  growth  of  the  new  day.  His  impatience  could 
scarcely  be  attributable  to  a  desire  to  see  the  sun  rise,  for 
at  home  the  Cook  habitually  rose  at  dawn,  and  had  already 
an  unequalled  collection  of  sunrises  in  his  mental  port- 
folio. In  truth,  the  Cook  was  very  cold.  He  had  smiled 
pityingly  as  he  sdw  his  companions  retire  each  under  a 
pair  of  woolen  blankets,  while  he  himself  stretched  freely 
upon  his  rubber  sheet,  with  no  covering  whatever. 
Woolen  blankets  in  July,  when  at  midday  the  thermome- 
ter stood  at  ninety  degrees  in  the  shade  ! — the  Cook  per- 
spired anew  at  the  thought,  and  chuckled  over  the  supe- 
rior good  luck  which  had  led  him  to  forget  his  blankets 
when  he  left  New  York,  thereby  materially  reducing  the 
bulk  of  his  equipment.  Woolen  blankets  might  be  neces- 
sary to  the  city  existence  of  the  Statesman,  the  Editor 


THE  COOK  S   PREDICAMENT. 


39 


and  the  Artist,  for  each  of  the  gentlemen  represented 
professions  which  are  notoriously  cold-blooded,  but  as 
for  the  Scribbler — well,  all  scribblers  come  early  in  life  to 
regard  blankets  as  rarely  attainable  luxuries,  and  to  de- 
pend for  warmth  upon  their  own  inner  man. 

But  on  this  particular  occasion  the  inner  man  of  the 
Cook  failed  to  respond  to  the  demand  made  upon  it. 
The  Cook  would  have  encouraged  the  inner  man  had  he 
known  where  the  expeditionary  brandy  was  kept,  but  no 
racking  of  memory  elicited  the  information  desired.  He 
scraped  carefully  among  the  ashes  of  his  evening  fire, 
hoping  that  some  coals  might  have  remained  alive  to 
kindle  a  new  one,  but  the  fire  had  been  of  wood  too  small 
to  leave  coals,  and  the  Cook's  matches  were  wet.  He 
might  have  had  dry  matches,  brandy — yes,  and  a  share  in 
the  blankets  themselves,  all  in  an  instant,  had  he  but  awak- 
ened either  of  his  brother  officers.  But  the  Cook's  pride 
exceeded  in  greatness  even  his  discomfort,  so  he  sought 
consolation  in  his  own  reflections,  as  men  are  always  pos- 
sessed to  do  at  just  such  times,  when  their  reflections  are 
in  the  most  shocking  condition  imaginable.  The  Cook 
paced  the  sand,  hugged  himself,  and  tried  to  believe  that 
there  had  been  no  such  day  as  yesterday,  and  that  he 
had  never  left  a  blanket  in  New  York.  Then  he  tried  to 
draw  his  rubber  blanket  noiselessly  from  the  tent,  to  throw 
over  his  shoulders,  but  one  side  of  the  Purser  rested  upon 
its  extreme  edi^e,  and  the  Purser  was  of  the  conventional 
English  ponderosity.     Then  the  Cook  tried  to  revive  his 


•S] 


t  il 


40 


CANOEING   IN   KANUCKIA. 


r'l' 


5',:, 


iV 


i.-!;; 


Si  I!  y 


'il 


n 


Pil: 


III! 

m 


lli:  ij    ,.  : 

,'!;■.  l!  11! 


spirits  with  a  song,  sung  softly  between  his  teeth,  but 
these  last  named  gateways  of  sound  were  trembling  so 
that  the  song  itself  became  sadly  demoralized.  The 
Cook  had  once  written  a  convincing  essay  on  •*  The 
Power  of  the  Imagination,  as  Exemplified  by  Physical 
Facts,"  and  recalling  this,  he  soliloquized  *'  Physician,  heal 
thyself!  "  Honestly  he  endeavored  to  obey  the  injunc- 
tion, by  imagining  himself  burrowing  in  a  whole  bale  of 
Mackinaw  blankets,  as  he  had  once  done  in  the  far  west 
when  smitten  by  an  ague,  but  the  warmth  was  as  imper- 
ceptible in  the  former  case  as  in  the  latter. 

The  night  wore  on,  to  the  extent  of  two  or  three  thou- 
sand hours,  and  reduced  the  chilling  Cook  at  last  to  a 
single  desire : — he  wished  that  before  he  froze  to  death 
he  might  have  a  thermometer,  a  pencil  and  paper,  and 
record  for  the  benefit  of  coming  canoeists  this  terrible 
temperature — if,  indeed,  the  thermometer  could  indicate 
it  before  the  mercury  itself  would  freeze. 

Then  came  that  mysterious  hour  of  the  night  in  which 
night,  itself  still  regnant,  trembles  at  the  prospect  of  its  own 
dissolution.  It  was  the  hour  in  which  sick  men  who  are  fore- 
doomed to  die  generally  accept  the  inevitable:  it  was  also 
the  hour  in  which  the  Commodore,  in  his  home  capacity 
of  Editor,  always  left  the  ofiice  of  the  "  Daily  Tocsin,"  and 
walked  home  with  a  sedative  cigar  for  company.  The 
force  of  habit  being  strong  in  the  Commodore,  he  rustled 
uneasily  under  his  blankets,  and  finally  emerged  from  the 
tent,  filling  a  pipe  as  he  came.  .         ,. 


THE   ROCHEFORT  WATER-LOGGED. 


41 


"  Just  the  man  !"  exclaimed  the  Cook.  "/  want  to 
smoke,  but  I  hadn't  the  heart  to  awake  any  one  to  beg  a 
dry  match." 

Both  pipes  lighted,  the  Cook  remarked, 

"  D-d-don't  you  think  it  would  be  more  cheerful  to 
smoke  by  a  f-f-fire?" 

And  the  Commodore,  with  a  very  perceptible  flavor 
of  irony  in  his  tones,  replied, 

"  I  d-d-dont  know  but  I  d-d-do." 

Five  minutes  sufficed  in  which  to  make  a  roaring  fire: 
then  the  Cook  scraped  up  a  ridge  of  sand  a  few  feet  from 
the  blaze,  allowed  it  to  heat,  stretched  himself  against  it 
and  was  asleep  in  an  instant.  An  experienced  seaman, 
however,  when  in  a  position  of  grave  responsibility,  never 
allows  himself  entire  freedom,  from  care.  Hence  in  the 
present  instance  the  sailor-like  instincts  acquired  by  the 
Commodore  during  long  years  of  sedentary  life,  caused 
him  some  anxiety  as  he  once  more  lay  down  in  the  tent. 
The  wind  had  freshened  from  the  southward,  and  he 
deemed  it  his  duty  to  arouse  the  Vice  whose  canoe,  as 
has  been  stated,  was  anchored  off  a  lee  shore  while  the 
rest  were  securely  sheltered  behind  a  point.  The  reply 
elicited  by  his  appeal  was  soninolent  rather  than  respect- 
ful, and  the  Commodore  resolving  upon  disciplinary  meas- 
ures in  the  morning,  once  more  arose  and  sought  the 
beach.  Professional  instinct  had  not  been  at  fault.  There 
was  the  Rochefort  full  of  water,  rolling  heavily  in  the 
trough   of    the   sea,    and    banging   her   cedar   broadside 


'I   !  ! 


II 


m 


llfli 


42 


CANOEING    IN   KANUCKIA. 


against  the  stony  shore.  With  that  devotion  to  the 
service  characteristic  of  the  true  sailor,  the  commandingr 
oflficer  laid  aside  at  once  his  trovvsers  and  the  disrnitv  of 
his  station,  and  Rescued,  at  the  risk  of  wetting  his  remain- 
ing garment,  the  vessel  which  the  inexperience  of  a  sub- 
ordinate had  imperiled.  In  this  connection  it  may  be 
well  to  remark  that  a  stone  which  weighs  twelve  pounds 
out  of  the  water  weighs  only  aboijt  seven  beneath  its 
surface.  Ignorance  of  this  simple  mechanical  principle 
led  a  well-meaning  and  occasionally  meritorious  ofificer 
into  the  error  of  using  such  a  stone  for  an  anchor.  - 

Still  the  Cook  slept  when  the  Commodore  leturned 
from  his  labor  of  love,  and  crept  shiveringly  into  his 
blankets. 

The  hours  passed,  the  sun  arose  and  beat  upon  the 
Cook's  face,  and  still  he  slept.  By  the  time  the  occupants 
of  the  tent  awoke  the  sun  had  performed  his  toilet  so 
thoroughly  that  not  a  dewdrop  remained  visible.  But 
still  the  Cook  slept,  and  when  the  Vice  saw  him  he  took 
in  the  situation  at  a  glance,  and  remarked  : 

"  Methinks  I  remember  a  cruise  in  which  the  Alder- 
man was  temporarily  without  blankets." 

The  Vice  performed  his  ablutions,  shaved  himself, 
eyed  the  fire,  walked  impatiently  around  the  Cook,  and 
finally  exclaimed : 

"  Boys,  I'm  starving,  but  it's  too  bad  to  rouse  that 
tired  wretch.  I'll  take  his  place  this  morning.  He  does 
well  enough  as  a  cook,  but  he  has  some  silly  notions  that 


THE  VICE  S  COFFEE   POT. 


43 


I'd  like  to  reason  him  out  of.  He  always  cooks  with  hot 
coals;  now  I  propose  to  show  him  that  a  bright  blaze  is 
just  as  useful,  and  far  sooner  made  ready.     Besides  I  am 


The  Vice's  Coffee  Pot  before. 

the  proud  owner  of  a  utensil  which  is  destined  to  revolu- 
tionize the  art  of  coffee-making."  The  others  were  fain 
to  acquiesce  in  this  arrangement,  but  the  Purser,  with 
characteristic  prudence,  put  some  water  to  boil  in  the 
regular  way.  The  Statesman  meanwhile  burrowed  among 
his  stores  and  shortly  appeared  bearing  the  brown  paper 
parcel  which  had  excited  curiosity  at  the  beginning  of 
the  voyage.  Tearing  off  the  paper  he  exhibited  a  struct- 
ure of  the  general  appearance  depicted. 

"  Here,"  said  he,  rapidly  resolving  it  into  its  compo- 
nent parts,  "  is  the  receptacle  for  the  coffee.  And  you 
fill  this  part — no,  this  one — with  water.  Then  you  put  it 
on  the  fire.  As  soon  as  it  boils  you  turn  it  bottom  up. 
Let's  see — no,  it  was  bottom  up  before  ;  you  turn  it  right 


II 


!j    !  i 


;■ 


I  i  I;'  1T 


il::* 


11 


1 

p 

i 

i 

1 

i- 

■' 

1 

iii 

44 


CANOEING   IN   KANUCKIA. 


side  up  and  there  you  are.  Coffee  strained,  not  boiled." 
This  last  with  a  contemptuous  glance  at  the  sleeping 
cook. 

The  Vice  piled  wood  upon  the  fire,  and  while  it  blazed 
up  fiercely  he  hastily  filled  the  wonderful  coffee-pot  half 
full  of  water,  and  set  it  in  the  midst  of  the  flames.  Five 
minutes  later  the  Cook  awoke  from  a  dream  of  hearing  a 
tin  peddler's  wagon  upset  on  a  stone  pavement.  Rubbing 
his  eyes  he  beheld  the  Vice,  with  a  long  hooked  stick, 


The  Vice's  Coffee  Pot  after. 

rescuing  various  pieces  of  tin  from  the  fire,  and  dropping 
them  upon  a  boulder  near  by.*  The  fla^n^had  resolved 
the  wonderful  coffee-pot  into  its  dozen  or  more  original 
fragments,  and  as  the  Vice  made  a  final  dive  for  the  spout- 
less, handleless,  topless  vessel,  the  Cook  drawled : 

"Some  people  cook  over  coals,  and  some  prefer  a 
blaze." 

"  Why,"  spluttered  the  Vice,  as  he  blew  upon  a  burned 

*  In  order  to  protect  themselves  against  prosecution  for  libel  the  authors 
would  state  that  the  coffee-pot  in  question  is  an  admirable  one  under  proper 
conditions.     Such  conditions,  however,  are  not  afforded  by  an  open  fire  of 

i 

drift-wood.  •  '  ♦  '^ 


AN    UNPROFESSIONAL   BREAKFAST. 


45 


finger,  "  the  Alderman  always  made  coffee  over  a 
blaze." 

"  Then  he  did  it  in  a  coffee-pot  with  a  bail  which 
hooked  on,  instead  of  being  fastened  by  solder.  And 
besides  he  suspended  it  over  the  fire  after  this  fashion." 

The  Vice  walked  away  to  his  boat  in  disgust,  while  the 
rest  seated  themselves  about  the  unprofessional  breakfast 
which  had  been  made  ready.  Presently  he  sauntered 
boldly  among  them  with  what  he  was  pleased  to  term  a 
coffee-cup  in  hand,  looking  rather  red  in  the  face,  but 
sturdily  demanding  his  breakfast. 

"  Some  of  that  potted  salmon.  Purser.  Pass  us  the 
bread,  Commodore.  I  say,  Cook,  isn't  that  coffee  ready 
yet?  Commodore,  this  thing  won't  work.  If  fellows  are 
going  to  shirk  their  share  of  the  drudgery,  the  service  will 
go  to  the  dogs.  What  I  want  is  my  coffee,  and  I  want  it 
NOW,  do  you  hear,  Cook  ?  " 

But  the  Cook  was  magnanimous,  for  he  had  a  coffee- 
pot of  his  own,  and  though  the  Vice  contended  that  the 
coffee  made  therein  had  not  the  aroma  peculiar  to  that 
made  in  the  one  which  he  had  loved,  and  lost,  he  revealed 
the  hollowness  of  his  plea,  (or  his  stomach)  by  drinking 
twice  as  much  as  any  one  else  did. 

The  Flag  officer  deemed  the  moment  a  fitting  one  to 
administer,  firmly  but  kindly,  a  merited  rebuke  to  the  sub- 
ordinate whose  heedlessness  had  on  the  preceding  night 
imperilled  the  safety  of  a  valuable  vessel.  On  being  asked 
if  he  had  anything  to  say  in  his  own   defence,  the  dis- 


::  li: 


CANOEING   IN   KANUCKIA. 


•i; 


i\ 


1''  I 

^: :  i 
i  I 


ii 


graced  officer  replied  with  unblushing  effrontery  that  he 
was  warm  and  comfortable  when  the  Commodore  waked 
him  ;  he  was  sleepy,  and  he  knew  the  Commodore  would 


\ 


A  Sporhun(;aa. 

get  up  and  do  what  had  to  be  done  anyhow,  and  he  didn't 
want  to  get  up  in  the  cold  and — 

Here  the  Commodore  broke  in  with  an  authoritative 
"  Silence,  Sir,"  but  as  the  rest  of  the  fleet  went  off  in  con- 
vulsions of  irreverent  laughter,  he  thought  it  best  to  let 
the  matter  drop. 

Saturday  is  a  good  day  to  begin  a  canoe-cruise.  The 
unwonted  exercise  induces  weariness  which  the  first  night 
in  camp  does  not  wholly  remove,  so  that  a  day  of  rest 
and  a  second  night  of  more  refreshing  sleep,  are  usually 
acceptable  to  all.  Opposite  is  what  the  voyagers 
looked  at  from  their  camp,  throughout  that  peaceful 
Sunday. 

At  this  camp  too,  the  regular  details  .were  permanently 


i; 


IN   POSITION. 


47 


and  formally  arranged.  The  Scribbler  having  confirmed 
the  Commodore's  judgment,  and  evinced  a  decided  genius 
for  cookery,  consented  to  serve  permanently  as  chef^  the 
rest  taking  turns  on  successive  days  as  foragers,  wood- 
cutters, and  dish-washers. 


ri 


W^^'' 


f: 


'L    ti 


!i    41 


III. 


THE   COOK    STUDIES   NAVIGATION. 


AS  the  squadron  turned  out  and  took  its  matutinal 
swim,  soon  after  sunrise,  the  lake  was  dimpled  by  a 
favorable  breeze,  and  after  breakfast  orders  were  issued 
to  make  sail. 

"  I've  got  to  make  a  spar  first,  Commodore,"  ex- 
claimed the  Cook,  "  my  main  boom  is  gone,  or  hasn't 
come,  I  don't  know  which." 

"  Find  another  at  once,"  said  the  commanding  officer, 
and  the  Cook  seized  the  hatchet,  and  started  into  the 
timber,  returning  presently  with  an  elm  pole  weighing 
twenty  pounds,  nearly  half  the  weight  of  his  boat,  his 
original  boom  having  been  a  piece  of  bamboo  weigh- 
ing a  scant  half-pound.  By  dint  of  hard  work  with 
hatchet  and  knife,  he  worked  this  log  into  a  makeshift  for 
a  boom. 

"  I  wonder,"  remarked   the   Cook,  as  he  dropped  his 

knife  for  a  moment,  and  caressed  the  blistered  palms  of 

his  hands,  "  why  all  you  fellows  insist  on  having  decks. 

I  don't  wonder  that  you  two  Chrysalids,"  referring  to  the 

Vice  and  the   Purser,  whose  boats  were  of  that  famous 

model,  "  I  don't  wonder  that  you  two  Chrysalids  do  it,  for 
3 


ir 


Ml 


50 


CANOEING   IN    KANUCKIA. 


the  builder  of  your  boats  stupidly  djck  ."d  them  before 
you  bought  them,  but  tlje  Commodore,  who,  like  me,  was 
sensible  enoujjh  to  buv  a  Red  Lake  boat,  wasn't  satisfied 
to  leave  it  free  and  open  as  he  found  it,  but  has  gone  and 

f 


if?  fi 


The  Cook  selects  a  Boom.    (Below  is  the  one  tbat  was  lost.) 

stretched  rubber-cloth  over  it  fore  and  aft.     It's  as  bad 
as  sailing  in  a  coffin,  to  sail  in  any  of  them." 

"  I'd  as  lieve  sail  in  a  coffin  as  in  a  bath-tub,"  replied 
the  Vice,  who,  having  commanded  a  blockade-runner 
during  the  late  unpleasantness,  had  a  natural  fondness  for 
tight  decks  and  plenty  of  them. 

"  A  well-covered  bath-tub,"  remarked  the  Commo- 
dore, "  is  fully  as  sea-worthy  as  a  mahogany-topped  cof- 
fin, and  far  less  suggestive  of  canoeing  on  the  Styx.  But 
for  a  cover  of  some  sort,  I  confess  an  affection.  It  keeps 
things  dry  ;  if  a  man  capsizes — "  i^ 


ALL   UNDER   SAIL. 


51 


"  A  canoeist  has  no  business  to  capsize,"  interrupted 
the  Cook,  who  had  learned  canoeing  on  a  Western  river, 
and  in  a  "duc^  out,"  which  could  onlv  be  turned  over  bv 
the  united  efforts  of  at  least  two  men,  "  and  a  canoeist  has 
no  right  to  have  '  things '  lying  so  loosely  as  to  drop  out." 

At  length  the  squadron  set  sail.  The  wind  had  fresh- 
ened, and  the  white  caps  were  as  numerous  and  agitated 
as  in  a  large  female  seminary  during  a  night  alarm  of  fire. 
The  Commodore,  the  Vice  and  the  Purser  were  all  ex- 
perienced Sailors,  so  they  shortened  sail,  but  the  Cook, 
having  never  handled  a  boat  under  sail  before,  possessed 
his  ^oul  of  the  nautical  bliss  that  comes  of  ignorance. 
Shorten  sail  ?  He  would  show  those  fellows  what  a  fear- 
less sailor  and  a  good  boat  could  do,  when  the  wind  was 
disposed  to  aid  them.  The  Cook  experimented  nerv- 
ously for  a  few  moments  to  learn  where  the  sail  should 
really  be  to  catch  the  most  wind,  but  when  he  learned  he 
made  full  use  of  his  knowledge,  and  his  boat,  the  Cherub, 
seemed  literally  to  fly.  It  passed  the  Becky  Sharp,  (the 
flag-ship)  so  rapidly  that  the  Cook  had  not  time  to  study 
the  Commodore's  face  long  enough  to  know  how  that 
official  liked  it ;  it  passed  the  Rochefort,  causing  the  Vice 
to  scowl  as  if  the  unoffending  Cherub  were  a  member  of 
the  party  which  the  whilom  statesman  hated  ;  it  threw 
for  an  instant  the  shadow  of  its  great  white  mainsail  on 
the  Arethusela,  darkening  the  blonde  complexion  and 
golden  locks  of  the  Artist-Purser. 

Then  the  Cook  began  to  enjoy  his  boat  and  himself. 


m^ 


?ii 


M 


59 


CANOELVG   IN   KANUCKIA. 


A  pistol  which  he  had  in  his  pocket  to  be  ready  for  a  ^hot 
at  some  passing  water-bird,  chafed  him  somewhat,  and  he 
laid  it  in  the  bottom  of  the  boat,  where  it  would  be 
equally  handy  and  less  troublesome.  He  had  heard  that 
a  canoeist  should  always  be  barefooted,  so  he  kicked  off 
his  shoes.  He  pitied  his  comrades  who  sat  upon  the  hard 
bottoms  of  their  boats  as  they  sailed,  while  he  sat  upon 
the  many  folds  of  a  large  tent.  All  the  inner  lines  of  his 
beautiful  canoe  were  before  his  eve,  instead  of  beinjj  hid- 
den  by  decks,  as  those  of  his  companions  were — if,  in- 
deed, there  were  any  beautiful  lines  any  where  about 
^heir  boats. 

The  Cook  was  happy  ;  he  fastened  the  sheet  of  his 
mainsail  to  a  cler^t,  softly  whistling,  as  he  did  so,  *'  A 
Life  on  the  Ocean  Wave,"  neither  :hinking  nor  caring 
that  the  ocean  was  reallv  several  hundred  miles  awav. 
He  was  astonished  and  delighted  that  sailing  was  so  easy 
an  art  to  acquire,  but  pshaw — sailors,  like  poets,  are  born, 
not  made.  Had  not  one  of  his  ancestors  sailed  with 
Drake  when  that  hero  interfered  with  the  sailing  direc- 
tions that  had  been  delivered  to  the  Spanish  Armada  ? 
What  might  he  not  have  achieved  himself,  had  cruel  fate 
not  ordained  that  ink  should  be  his  only  fluid  element  ? 
Just  here  the  Cherub  made  such  astonishing  speed  that 
the  Cook  determined  roughly  to  "  time  "  his  boat,  so  he 
estimated  a  mile  of  distance  by  the  trees  upon  the  shore, 
opened  his  watch  and  laid  it  in  the  bottom  of  the  boat, 
before  his  eyes.  .  ,  .  \ 


THE   COOK   JIBES. 


53 


But  Solomon  said  that  pride  must  have  a  fall,  and 
when  there  is  any  ur  pleasant  saying  of  Scripture  to  be  ful- 
filled, a  conceited  canoeist  is  as  good  as  any  one  else  that 
can  be  selected  for  the  purpose.  The  squadron  was 
approaching  a  point  beyond  which  its  course  would  be 
changed.  The  Commodore  shouted  "  Ready  about  !  " 
and  the  Cook's  self-confidence  disappeared  as  rapidly  as 
if  it  had  been  the  conscience  of  a  congressman  after  an 
interview  with  a  "  subsidy  "  lobbyist.  "  Jibe  !  "  shouted 
the  Commodore.  The  Cook,  almost  in  despair,  looked 
astern,  to  see  what  the  others  did.  He  saw  their  masts 
straighten,  their  sails  flap  irresolutely  for  a  moment,  and 
then  fill  on  the  opposite  side.  How  was  it  done  ?  Acci- 
dent came  to  the  Cook's  rescue  :  a  wretched  steersman 
at  best,  he  had  almost  forgotten  his  helm  as  he  looked 
astern,  and  an  unintentional  turn  of  the  wrist  of  his  steer- 
ing  hand  turned  the  boat's  head  from  the  wind.  Around 
came  the  new  boom  ;  the  Cook  had  never  before  seen  a 
boom  come  around  on  his  own  boat,  and  he  had  no  idea 
of  how  close  the  same  would  come  to  the  plane  occupied 
by  his  own  head.  But  the  time  occupied  by  an  industrious 
boom  in  jibing  is  not  sufficient  for  prolonged  meditation, 
and  while  the  Cook  was  wondering  what  to  do,  the  boom 
attended  faithfully  to  its  own  business.  The  elasticity  of  a 
green  elm  log  is  an  unknown  quantity  ;  the  Cook's  dome 
of  thought  was  equally  inelastic,  so  the  Cook  soon  heard 
a  heavy  thud,  as  when  one  throws  a  mighty  stone  at  a 
well-laden  chestnut  tree.     Then  the  Cook  heard  a  splash, 


54 


CANOEING  IN   KANUCKIA. 


m 


If,, 
ill 


mi  ■  y 


ii- 


W 


and  he  was  not  allowed  to  remain  in  doubt  as  to  the 
object  which  caused  it.  All  the  terrible  stories  he  had 
heard  about  men  who  had  been  carried  down  by  the 
sails  and  rigging  of  capsizing  boats  came  hurrying  into 
his  mind,  and  he  swam  so  vigorously  to  escape  a  similar 
fate,  that  his  boat  had  time  to  turn  leisurely  over  and 
adjust  itself  to  its  new  condition  before  he  dared  to 
pause  in  his  mad  career.     (See  Frontispiece.) 

Then  the  Cook  swam  to  his  boat,  and  resting  an  elbow 
upon  her  keel,  gazed  pensively  around  him.  Something 
that  seemed  to  be  a  peculiarly-shaped  dark  fish,  a  little 
way  below  the  surface  in  front  of  him,  proved  to  be 
the  slowly  sinking  form  of  one  of  his  shoes,  going  to 
join  its  mate.  A  black  bundle,  consisting  of  most  of  the 
Cook's  personal  effects  wrapped  in  a  rubber-blanket,  was 
rescued  by  the  Commodore  just  as  it  seemed  discouraged 
by  the  difficulty  it  experienced  in  floating. .  The  Cook's 
hat,  one  of  the  paddles,  a  covered  tin  pail  containing 
butter,  a  worthless  bit  or  two  of  board,  and  sundry  other 
articles  of  little  value,  were  picked  up  by  other  members 
of  the  expedition,  but  the  indisposition  of  watches,  pistols, 
and  even  wet  tents  to  wander  aimlessly  about  on  the 
bosom  of  a  lake  is  known  to  all  students  of  comparative 
specific  gravities.  The  Cook  groped  for  the  painter  of 
his  own  boat ;  his  other  hand  he  rested  upon  the  stern 
of  the  flagship,  and  thus  the  demoralized  couple  reached 
the  shore.  The  remainder  of  the  squadron  had  already 
disembarked,  and  the  Purser  made  haste  to  extend  the 


MEMORY   TURNS  TO  THE   PURSE. 


55 


hospitalities  of  a  private  flask,  but  he  robbed  the  draught 
of  its  flavor  by  asking,  as  he  passed  it, 

*'  Shall  I  explain  to  you  why  canoes  are  usually 
decked  ?  " 

And  the  Cook  was  so  absorbed  in  contemplation  of 
his  bare  feet,  that  he  did  not  even  look  up.  At  length  he 
inquired  as  to  the  depth  of  the  lake  ;  the  Vice  obligingly 
paddled  to  the  scene  of  the  disaster,  took  soundings,  and 
reported  fifty  feet.  To  go  through  fifty  feet  of  water  to 
cover  two  feet  not  over  dry  was  not  to  be  thought  of,  but 
what  hope  was  there  of  replacing  lost  shoes  in  a  wilder- 
ness— even  when  Acadia  was  reached,  the  natives  prob- 
ably made  and  wore  only  wooden  sabots. 

The  overturned  boat  was  righted,  and  the  Cook- 
emptied  his  portmonnaie  and  laid  his  money  on  a  shel- 
tered rock  to  dry,  while  he  should  change  his  clothing  and 
restore  his  boat.  Then  the  Commodore,  consulting  a 
chart,  discovered  that  there  was  a  village  only  ten  miles 
distant  on  the  border  of  the  lake,  and  it  was  large  enough 
to  justify  a  hope  of  shoes :  the  squadron  should  put  in 
there.  The  delighted  Cook  proposed  an  immediate  start, 
particularly  as  a  force  of  small  boys  was  approaching. 
The  village  was  reached,  the  Cook  found  a  pair  of  shoes, 
but  on  attempting  to  pay  for  them  he  remembered  hav- 
ing left  his  money  on  a  stone  to  dry.  And  that  stone 
was  ten  miles  away,  it  could  only  be  reached  by  paddling 
against  a  head  wind,  and  when  last  seen  the  ground  con- 
taining the  stone  was  occupied  in  force  by  boys  !     The 


H 


56 


CANOEING   IN  KANUCKIA. 


!^ 


II  W 


!    !.  H 


■  ! 


I   ' 


i 


Cook,  as  he  walked  back  to  his  boat,  was  in  a  savage  frame 
of  mind,  and  wanted  to  hurt  somebody  or  something, 
but  no  one  would  laugh  at  him,  or  offer  sympathy 
Suddenly  his  eye  fell  upon  the  extempore  boom ;  a 
moment  later  and  that  faithful  spar  which  had  done 
only  its  honest  duty,  sank  deeply  in  the  lake.  The  Cook's 
credit  was  good,  however,  and  he  succeeded  in  borrow- 
ing from  the  Statesman  enough  money  to  pay  for  the 
shoes  and  a  blanket,  and  buy  a  bamboo  fishing-pole  from 
a  casual  youth  who  angled  on  the  adjacent  wharf.  This 
was  speedily  converted  into  a  boom  of  proper  size  and 
weight. 

"  The  rest  of  us  may  as  well  go  booming,  too,"  re- 
marked the  Commodore,  who  had  been  strongly  stimu- 
lated by  the  exhibition  of  spirit  in  which  the  Cook  had  in- 
dulged. By  this  time  there  had  gathered  about  the 
squadron  quite  a  crowd.  It  was,  however,  a  crowd  of 
great  conservatism ;  each  man  seemed  to  have  in  his 
pocket  a  valuable  something,  which  required  the  unre- 
mitting contact  of  his  hands,  as  well  as  something  in  his 
mouth  which  would  escape  were  he  to  part  his  lips.  Oc- 
casionally, .  however,  one  would  release  a  hand  long 
enough  to  test  the  weight  of  the  Vice's  canoe,  which 
was  the  only  one  that  had  been  drawn  entirely  out  of  tlie 
water,  and  as  each  of  the  sixty  odd  men  present  did  this 
at  least  once,  gravely  uttering,  as  he  did  so,  the  mono- 
syllable "  Gosh !  "  the  Vice  was  extremely  delighted. 
The  expletive  recalled  the  days  of  his  innocent  youth. 


1  i' 


m 


!   'ir 


HiM. 


58 


CANOEING  IN   KANUCKIA. 


**  It  is  plain  to  see,"  said  he,  "  that  living  right  on  the 
edge  of  monarchical  institutions  as  they  do,  these  poor 
fellows  have  never  before  seen  a  boat  of  any  lightness 
and  grace."  * 

•*  Don't  forget,  please,"  remarked  the  Cook,  "  that  my 
canoe,  which  is  lighter  and  faster  than  yours,  was  made 
in  Canada." 

Having  repaired  damages,  the  squadron  proceeded, 
paddling  side  by  side  along  the  shore  in  search  of  favor- 
able camping  ground. 

**  How  does  the  Alderman  toggle  his  boom,  Vice?" 
asked  the  Purser,  who  during  the  day  had  his  own  private 


'lid 

inn 


The  Vice's  Boom  Toggle. 

troubles  with  that  important  spar,  and  was  beeinnin?  to 
have  some  misgivings  as  to  rig. 

"  Same  as  I  do  mine,  with  a  brass  collar  for  the  mast, 
and  a  screw  and  bolt  arrangement  to  make  the  boom  fast. 
See?"  And  the  Vice  exhibited  his  boom  where  it  was 
attached  to  the  mast. 

**  That's  just  like  mine,"  said  the  Purser,  "and  I  don't 
altogether  like  it.  I  believe  simple  jaws  and  lashing,  such 
as  you  see  on  any  sail-boat,  are  more  convenient." 


m 


f'  r 


SPRITS   NOT  BOOMS. 


59 


*'  No  true  canoeist  will  sacrifice  style,  merely  for  con- 
venience," replied  the  Vice  sententiously.  **  Now,  there 
is  more  style  about  a  Chrysalid  than  about  a  Red  Laker, 
and  that  more  than  compensates  for  their  inferior  speed, 
and  carrying  capacity,  and  so  on.  Every  man  should  have 
his  boom  rigged  in  the  most  complicated  manner.     Now 


The  Commodore's  Sprit. 

look  at  the  Cook,  and  the  Commodore.  See  their  booms, 
(The  Commodore  accommodatingly  held  up  the  foot  of 
his  mast  for  inspection,)  or  sprits  rather.  They  are  not 
properly  booms.  Now,  that  rubber  band  passed  through 
a  ring,  and  over  a  cross-head  or  a  notch  on  the  end  of  the 
sprit,  undoubtedly  keeps  a  light  sail  flatter  than  any  other 
contrivance  I  know  of,  but  there's  nothing  ship-shape 
about  it.     *T wouldn't  be  allowed  for  a  moment   in  the 


'I 


p 


I. 

it 


y 
i 

il 

II 
ii 

u 

)i 

iii 


I 


I    ! 


I  ii 


60 


CANOEING   IN    KAXUCKIA. 


navy.     You  want  something  that  it  takes  some  skill  to 


manage. 


•  "  Thanks,"  said  the  Purser,  '*  I  see  the  thing  in  its 
true  light  now,"  and  he  went  to  work  when  camp  was 
reached  and  fitted  jaws  to  his  boom,  and  even  threatened 
to    adopt    the    leg-of-mutton    sprit-sail    before    he    went 


cruisin"  afjain. 


"  I  don't  see,"  commented  the  Cook,  "  why  the  india- 
rubber  arrangement  should  not  be  adapted  to  a  boom  as 
well  as  a  sprit.  It  only  requires  a  little  ingenuity,  and 
would  keep  the  sail  quite  as  flat  as  does  your  present 


rig. 


Rounding  a  promontory  the  fleet  sighted  a  wooded 
island  three-quarters  of  a  mile  from  shore,  and  as  such  an 
island  is  for  several  reasons  preferable  to  the  main  land 
for  camping,  they  made  for  it  at  once  and  found  it  all 
that  their  fancy  had  painted.  The  fleet  with  one  excep- 
tion was  hauled  upon  the  beach,  but  the  Vice,  anxious 
to  retrieve  his  reputation  for  seamanship,  rriade  fast  the 
painter  of  the  Rochefort  to  a  stone  which  he  could  hardly 
lift  and  hove  her  short  under  the  lee  of  the  point.  The 
flag-oflicer  silently  noticed  these  preparations,  but  said 
nothing,  resolved  not  to  interfere  again  between  the 
Rochefort  and  her  commander. 

Here  again  it  was  found  that  former  generations  of 
campers-out  had  sojourned,  leaving  their  lean-to,  scientifi- 
cally constructed  of  poles  and  bark,  standing  for  the  ac- 
commodation of  posterity.     As  the  sun  sank  black  bass 


n 


h 

.H 

M 

»)i 
III 


62 


CANOEING   IN   KANUCKIA. 


ill 

Hi 
^      I 

I      * 

!•    h 


H 
N 

II 
III 


began  to  break  the  glassy  surface  of  the  lake  in  search  of 
their  evening  meal. 

'*  Would  that  the  Alderman  were  here,"  remarked  the 
Vice,  as  he  watched  the  circles  widen  on  the  water,  and 
heard  the  inspiriting  splash  as  the  fish  flashed  up  in  the 
sun's  rays,  **  he  would  catch  us  a  string  of  bass  and  show 
the  cook  how  to  fry  them,  in  less  than  half  an  hour." 

But  the  Commodore  had  been  putting  his  rod  to- 
gether, and  having  in  the  course  of  the  day  killed  a  large 
bull-frog,  he  now  la.shed  a  portion  of  its  hind  leg  to  a  hook 
with  fine  thread  and  quietly  launching  the  flag-ship,  stood 
up  in  her  amidships  and  made  a  cast  as  far  out  toward 
the  feeding  ground  as  possible.  A  vigorous  pull  re- 
warded his  effort  and  almost  as  soon  as  the  Alderman 
could  have  done  it  he  had  two  thumping  bass  and  a 
good  sized  chub,  or  dace,  which  the  Purser  and  Vice 
cleaned  and  the  Cook  fried  to  a  turn  for  supper. 

•*  The  Alderman  would  not  have  stood  up  in  his  boat 
to  catch  these  fish,"  said  the  Vice  with  a  crisp  "  second  cut 
from  the  tail  "  on  his  plate,  "  that  kind  of  thing  isn't 
regular." 

**  No ;  it  would  be  decidedly  irregular  in  some  boats," 
remarked  the  Cook. 

"  I'll  bet  you  cigars  for  the  crowd — my  choice  ones, 
that  I've  preserved  carefully  in  my  water-tight, — that  I 
can  throw  a  line  from  a  Chrysalid." 

"  Done." 

The  Arethusela  had  nothing  aboard,  so  the  Vice  bor- 


I 


i 


I" 
•*  ! 


III 


i 


I 


1- 


64 


CANOKING    IN    KANUCKIA. 


rowed  her  and  the  Commodore's  rod,  and  pushed  out  a 
few  vards  from  the  beach.  Then  risin'jr  ijin^erlv  to  his 
feet  lie  made  one  or  two  gentle  casts  with  great  circum- 
spection and  was  about  to  claim  his  wager,  but  thinking 
to  perfect  his  claim,  made  a  third  cast,  which  was  a  thought 
too  vigorous.     {Rcsii/t  shown  on  page  65.) 

The  flag  ship  was  still  afloat,  and  the  Commodore  be- 
ing anxious  about  his  rod,  sprang  aboard  and  pushed  off 
to  the  rescue,  but  the  Vice  sternlv  waved  him  back. 

"  You  may  take  your  rod,  if  you  like,"  said  he, 
"  though  I  could  manage  that  too  well  enough,  but  I'll 
show  you  another  point  of  superiority  in  a  Chrysalid." 

The  Commodore  took  the  rod  and  backed  off  to  a 
respectful  distance.  The  Arethusela  had  righted  herself 
instantly  after  discharging  her  occupant,  and  floated  full 
of  water,  but  still  buoyant  from  the  air  in  her  larije  water- 
tight  compartments.  The  Vice  picked  u{>  his  paddle,  and 
put  it  aboard  and  then  swam  to  the  stern,  which  he 
grasped  with  both  hands,  and  managed  by  a  sudden  and 
judicious  eflbrt  to  mount. 

Then,  hitching  carefully  along,  leap-frog  fashion,  he 
was  soon  seated  amidships,  bailing  the  water  out  with  his 
hat,  the  canoe  still  floating  with  considerable  buoyancy. 

"  That  is  well  done,"  was  the  general  verdict.     "  A 
Chrysalid's  water-tights  are  more  efficient  than  those  of 
a  Red  Laker  provided  she  has  any  to  bless  herself  withal." 

•'  I  want  to  take  a  bath,"  said  the  Commodore,  "  be- 
fore turning  in,  and  as  a  long  enough  time  has  now  passed 


i 


I 


I  II 


I 


66 


CANOEING   IN   KANUCKIA. 


since  supper  to  reasonably  warrant  exemption  from  con- 
gestion, I  think  I  will  test  my  water-tights  if  the  Vice 
will  permit  me  so  to  denominate  the  bags  which  serve  in 


•^/v-^  <; 


Aquatic  Leap-frog  . 

that  capacity  on  board  the  flag  ship.  At  any  rate,  I  will 
prove  to  you  that  1  can  climb  aboard  a  Red  Laker  with- 
out upsetting.  I  take  precautions,  you  see,  against  wet- 
ting my  toggery." 

So  saying  the  Commodore  stripped,  embarked,  and 
when  in  deep  water  jumped  overboard,  climbing  on  board 
just  as  the  Vice  had  done,  and  with  about  the  same  ease. 
Then  he  sat  on  the  gunwale  and  upset  his  boat,  filling  her 
with  water.  She  floated,  but  by  no  means  so  buoyantly 
as  had  the  Arethusela,  and  the  task  of  climbing  on  board 
was  somewhat  more  critical  as  the  power  of  flotation 
was  so  much  less.  However,  the  water  being  perfectly 
smooth,  it  was  accomplished,  and  it  is  probable  that  the 
Commodore  could  have  bailed  her  out  without  going 
ashore,  if  he  had  given  time  enough  to  the  operation,  and 
darkness  had  not  come  on.  As  it  was,  he  prudently  and 
laboriously  paddled   the   water-logged   flag  ship  ashore, 


AQUATIC   LEAP-FROG. 


67 


Where  all  hands  performed  their  evening  toilettes,  and  sat 
down  around  the  camp  fire  to  enjoy  cigars,  which  the  Vice 
had  promptly  handed  over  to  the  Cook,  remarking  that 
he  did  so  under  protest  and  stipulating  that  no  precedent 
should  thereby  be  established :  -  For,"  said  he,  - 1  laid  a 
wager  that  I  could  throw  a  Hne  while  standing  in  the 
boat,  and  no  fair-minded  man  can  say  I  didn't  do  it." 

With  the    moan   of  a  rising  gale   in    their  earj.    the 
members  of  the  expedition  soon  dropped  off  to  sleep 


IV. 


$  I 


THE  WRECK  OF  THE  ROCHEFORT. 


B  ]i 


AT  dawn  the  Purser  arose  and  woke  the  camp  with 
the  blood-curdling  cry,  "  The  Rochefort  is  gone  !  " 
The  rest,  as  soon  as  they  could  rub  their  eyes  open, 
scanned  the  lake  to  leeward,  but  no  trace  of  the  missing 
canoe  could  be  seen.  The  sky  was  grey  with  low  driving 
clouds  and  the  lake  repeated  the  sombre  hue,  save  when  it 
broke  into  white  before  the  southerly  gale. 

With  ill  concealed  reluctance  the  Commodore  offered 
to  lend  his  darling  Becky  to  the  bereaved  Statesman,  who 
protested  that  the  loss  of  an  election  was  as  nothing  in 
comparison  with  his  present  affliction.  It  must  be  ad- 
mitted, too,  that  his  remarks  as  to  going  in  a  Red  Laker 
to  the  rescue  of  a  Chrysalid,  were  not  altogether  gracious. 
However,  the  Purser  volunteered  to  go  with  him  in  search 
of  the  runaway,  each  man  following  one  side  of  the  lake 
which  was  here  only  about  two  miles  wide.  Under  the 
.shortest  possible  sail,  then,  they  set  out,  each  standing 
across  the  wind  at  first,  so  as  to  close  in  with  the  shore 
and  then  follow  it  down  with  the  wind  astern.  They 
went  merrily  off  riding  the  white  caps  like  ducks,  and 
turninsf  to  follow  the  dark  wooded  shores  to  the  North. 


"  HIS  SHIP  SHE  WAS  A-WRACK. 


69 


Presently  the  Purser  was  observed  to  broach  to.  and  after 
a  short  time  he  went  ashore,  unshipped  his  mast  and  pro- 
ceeded under  paddle.  It  subsequently  transpired  that 
the  sea  wrenched  off  one  of  the  "  gudgeons  "  which  held 
the  rudder,  and  he  was  thereupon  disabled  for  sailing 
purposes.  The  wind,  however,  was  dead  astern,  and  he 
progressed  almost  as  easily  and  as  fast  as  if  he  had  not 
lost  his  helm. 

Meanwhile  the  Vice  proceeded,  anxiously  scanning  the 
coast,  and  at  length  had  the  pleasure  of  discovering  the 


-^^ 


../, 


I' 


"  His  Ship  she  was  a-wrack." 

runaway  some  three  miles  down  the  lake,  full  of  water, 
and  with  the  sea,  in  dear  old  Robinson  Crusoe's  immor- 
tal words,  "  making  a  clean  breach  over  her."  That  she 
was  not  stove  into  match-wood  speaks  well  for  her  build- 
er's workmanship.  She  had  carried  her  anchor  with  her 
all  the  way,  having  been  hove  so  short  that  she  gradually 
worked  off  the  steep  beach  as  the  wind  and  sea  rose,  and 


;'!«  ' 


11 


'H 


70 


CANOEING  IN   KANUCKIA. 


had  not  even  cable  enough  out  to  anchor  her  ofT  the  lee 
shore  on  which  she  finally  brought  up. 

As  the  Vice  approached  her,  the  buoyant  Red-Laker 
rising  cork-like  with  him  on  the  white  capped  waves,  he 
could  not  but  be  struck  by  the  ship-shape  appearance  of 
the  wreck.  As  has  been  intimated,  the  Vice  is  distin- 
guished for  elaboration  of  equipment,  and  he  had  anchored 
his  canoe  the  night  before  with  her  sails  beautifully  furled, 
and  every  strand  of  her  multitudinous  running  rigging 
exactly  in  position.  Now  she  looked  for  all  the  world  like 
a  miniature  frigate  cast  away  on  a  rocky  coast,  and  the 
solitary  spectator  half  expected  to  discover  a  crew  of  pig- 
mies -rlinging  to  her  hatch-combings,  as  he  drew  near. 

The  first  thing  to  be  done  however,  was  to  signal  the 
Purser,  who  was  coasting  the  opposite  shore.  To  beach 
his  borrowed  boat  with  such  a  sea  running,  and  where 
there  was  not  any  beach  but  boulders,  was  a  problem 
which  might  easily  have  floored  the  greatest  statesman, 
but  the  Commodore  is  glad  to  certify,  that  the  task  was 
accomplished  with  due  regard  for  the  welfare  of  the  flag- 
ship, and  this  while  the  Vice's  own  beloved  Rochefort  was 
perhaps  banging  herself  to  pieces  on  the  boulders. 

By  dint  of  firing  his  revolver  and  waving  his  dandy, 
unshipped  for  the  purpose,  he  succeeded  in  attracting  the 
Purser's  attention,  and  saw  him  change  his  course.  This 
done,  he  waded  to  the  stranded  Rochefort,  expecting  to 
find  her  hopelessly  broken  amidships,  but  on  getting  her 
off  the  rocks,  she  floated  as  well  as  ever,  showing  that  her 


THE    RESCUE. 


71 


compartments  were  still  uninjured ;  so>  anchoring  her  in 
waist-deep  water,  with  her  head  to  the  sea,  the  Vice 
proceeded  to  bail. 

Why  this  amber  hue  of  the  water?  Alas,  the  Vice 
carried  the  coffee  of  the  fleet  and  it  was  not  in  a  water- 
tight box.  Why  this  slight  saccharine  quality?  Alas 
again,  the  Vice  carried  the  expeditionary  sugar.  The 
coffee  did  not  prove  a  total  loss.  Persistent  boiling 
extracted  from  it  a  passable  beverage,  which  served  until 
a  market  town  was  reached,  but  the  sugar  was  past  re- 
demption. 

By  the  time  the  Purser  had  reached  the  scene  of  dis- 
aster the  wreck  was  pumped  dry,  and  careful  inspection 
showed  that  she  was  wholly  uninjured  save  as  regards  a 
few  bruises.  So  the  Vice  unshipped  her  masts,  and 
rightly  judging  that  the  Becky  Sharp  would  be  the  easi- 
est to  tow,  made  fast  her  painter,  and  started  on  the  long 
paddle  against  the  wind  back  to  camp. 

To  the  rest  of  the  fleet  this  escapade  argued  poor 
seamanship  on  the  part  of  the  Vice,  but  to  him  it  only 
proved  the  moral  obliquity  of  his  boat.  In  order  to 
shield  his  own  reputation,  he  ruthlessly  alleged  against 
her  the  most  abominable  nautical  crimes,  and  would 
never  trust  her  alone  thereafter,  unless  she  was  tied  to  a 
large  tree  or  a  huge  boulder. 

The  Purser,  meanwhile,  noting  the  shoreward  trend 
of  the  waves,  instituted  a  successful  search  for  his  lost 
rudder,  which  he  found  ashore  in  a  quiet  cove.     On  re- 


;< 


;  »  <% 


ill 
p. 

Ml 
III  I 


72 


CANOEING   IN   KANUCKIA. 


turning  to  camp,  he  and  the  Vice  admitted  that  there  are 
certain  advantages  connected  with  a  steering  oar,  which 
do  not  belong  to  a  rudder,  and  each  resolved  thereafter 
to  carry  a  suitable  row-lock,  so  as  not  to  be  entirely- 
disabled  for  sailing  in  case  of  accidents.  Nevertheless, 
while  a  rudder  holds,  it  is  certainly  more  convenient  than 
a  paddle  to  steer  with,  but  at  the  same  time  it  necessi- 
tates an  awkward  amount  of  stern-post,  which  renders  the 
boat  hard  to  turn,  and  has  usually  to  be  shipped  and  un- 
shipped in  changing  from  sail  to  paddle.  For  this  reason 
the  Vice  is  accustomed  to  remark,  that  it  is  always  well 
to  have  another  fellow  at  hand  in  a  Red-Laker  to  render 
aid  in  emergencies.  Of  course  it  was  necessary  to  dry 
the  Rochefort  before  proceeding,  and  it  was  afternoon 
before  the  Purser  had  repaired  his  steering  gear,  and 
everything  was  in  readiness.  There  is  always  enough  to 
do  however,  so  all  hands  busied  themselves  in  sundry 
tinkerings  until  after  dinner,  when,  as  the  sky  had  cleared 
and  the  wind  had  somewhat  moderated,  the  order  was 
given  to  make  sail,  and  the  pretty  island  was  speedily  left 
behind,  the  fleet  skimming  along  the  wooded  shore  like 
a  flock  of  white  sea  gulls. 

Now  whatever  advantages  a  Chrysalid  may  possess 
over  and  above  a  Red-Laker,  she  is  nowhere  in  point  of 
speed  on  a  free  wind.  Consequently  the  first  division 
invariably  ran  away  from  the  second,  and  was  obliged 
every  little  while  to  lie  by  and  wait  for  it  to  come  up. 
After  his  first  experience  in  jibing,  the  Cook  had  been 


I  i^  li  i:i 


PADDLES  AND   RUDDERS. 


7Z 


content  for  awhile  to  trust  to  a  spruce  breeze,  and  indeed 
there  had  been  since  his  overturn  no  favoring  wind  until 
now.  He  soon  acquired  commendable  skill  in  laying  a 
straight  course.  He  no  longer  zig-zagged  over  the  lake 
as  at  first.  Evidently,  however,  something  weighed  upon 
his  mind,  for  as  with  his  companion  boat  he  entered  a  bay 
to  wait  for  the  second  division  : 
"  Commodore,"  said  he. 
"  Well  ?  " 

"  I  say,  what  is  tacking  anyhow  ?  " 
"  Why  it's  working  to  windward." 
"  Yes,  I  know,  but  how  do  you  do  it }  " 
•'  O,  I  see.     You  don't  understand  the  theory  of  sail- 
ing a  boat.     Well,  I  must  own  you're  a  plucky  one.     And 
you've  done  mighty  well  too." 

Then  the  Commodore  made  his  companion  lie  to, 
while  the  flag-ship  worked  past  him  to  windward  by 
short  tacks.  The  Cook  with  his  usual  aptitude  soon 
caught  the  idea  and  satisfactorily  put  it  in  practice. 
Then,  as  the  breeze  was  moderate,  there  followed 
lessons  in  "jibing"  and  "wearing,"  with  explana- 
tions  of  the  circumstances  under  which  each  was 
necessary. 

By  the  time  the  second  division  rounded  the  point, 
the  Cook's  spirits  had  risen,  and  he  began  once  more  to 
prate  of  his  piratical  ancestry  who  knew  no  home  but  the 
ocean. 

"What  were  you  two  benighted  Red  Lakers  doing 


WM 


k 

k 


11 

:i.i 

■H 

i.,i 

1 1 

iii 

!| 

1 

'    •» 

bill 


74 


CANOEING   IN   KANUCKIA. 


in  the  bay  this  side  of  Black  Point  ?"  asked  the  Vice  as 
the  party  sat  by  the  fire  that  evening. 

"  Merely  a  little  discussion  as  to  merits  of  rig,  and  the 
best  way  of  handling  a  boat,  with  practical  illustrations," 
said  the  Cook,  who  clung  frantically  to  the  remnant  of 
his  reputation  for  seamanship,  and  trusted  to  the  Commo- 
dore's magnanimity  not  to  expose  him. 

'  O.  that  was  it,  eh  ?  And  what  conclusions  did  you 
reach  with  your  Red  Lake  monstrosities?" 

"  We  had  plenty  of  time  to  reach  any  conclusions, 
and  have  them  illustrated  and  published,  and  sell  a  dozen 
editions  before  you  came  along,"  retorted  the  Cook. 

"  We  were  trying  experiments,"  said  the  Commodore 
adroitly,  **  in  going  about,  and  we  concluded  that  the 
best  way  was  to  come  up  into  the  wind  as  sharp  as  you 
like,  hauling  in  a  little  on  the  dandy  sheet  to  help,  and 
then  as  soon  as  the  mainsail  shivers,  give  her  one  or  two 
strokes  with  the  paddle,  let  go  your  dandy  sheet,  hold 
your  boom  over  till  the  mainsail  fills,  and  her  head  falls 
off,  shift  your  paddle  to  the  lee  side  and  there  you  are." 

"  Yes,"  said  the  Vice,  who  is  a  devoted  adherent  of  a 
"sliding  gunter"  rig  with  full  boom  and  gaff,  standing 
lug,  dandy,  jib  and  flying  jib,  as  distinguished  from  the 
two  leg-of-mutton  sails  carried  by  the  Red  Lakers. 
"  Yes,  there  you  are  indeed  with  your  steering  paddle 
and  other  unseamanlike  contrivances.  Now  let  me  show 
you  how  a  Chrysalid  goes  about.  We  will  suppose  this 
log  to  be  the  canoe."  •       \ 


HOW  TO  TACK  SHIP. 


75 


"  Parallel  exact,  so  far,"  broke  in  the  Cook,  **  Go 
ahead."  Taking  no  notice  of  the  interruption  the  Vice 
proceeded,  seating  himself  astride  the  log, 

"  We  will  suppose  the  canoe  to  be  under  full  sail  on 
the  port  tack,  with  everything  drawing.  Order  is  given 
'  ready  about,'  crew  spring  to  stations.  Helmsman  gives 
her  a  good  full,  passes  port  tiller-rope  over  his  shoulder, 
takes  it  in  his  teeth  and  has  his  paddle  handy.  Let  go 
flying  jib  halyards,  and  in  with  your  down  haul.  Let  go 
main  sheet,  and  if  you  get  a  chance,  haul  in  a  little  on  the 
dandy.  Round  with  your  helm.  When  the  mainsail 
begins  to  shiver,  top  your  boom  or  lift  it  clear  while  she 
swings.  If  she  don't  come  round,  help  her  with  your 
paddle.  Let  go  dandy  sheet  if  you  hauled  in  on  it.  Let 
go  topping  lift,  slack  away  weather  jib  sheet  as  soon  as 
she  is  pointed  on  starboard  tack.  Bowse  in  flying  jib 
halyards,  letting  mainsail  take  care  of  itself,  make  all  fast, 
haul  in  main  sheet,  and  there  you  are  all  ship-shape." 

"And  hull  down,  astern  of  tiif?  Red  Lakers,"  added 
the  Commodore. 

During  this  explanation  the  Vice  had,  after  his  own 
enthusiastic  fashion,  gone  through  all  the  motions,  as  he 
described  them,  and  when  he  appealed  to  his  auditors  to 
know  if  it  was  not  a  far  more  artistic  performance  than 
that  which  the  Commodore  described,  no  one  had  a 
word  to  say. 

"  Just  tell  us.  Vice,"  said  the  Cook,  "  how  many  ropes 
have  you  to  attend  to  ?  " 


;6 


CANOEING   IN   KANUCKIA. 


lilt 


I 


I    K 


m: 


**  O  there  are  only  a  few,"  responded  the  Vice,  curious- 
ly enough  not  seeing  the  trap  into  which  he  was  falling, 
"  There  are  the  dandy  halyards,  sheet  and  brail,  that's  three, 
main  halyards — peak  and  throat — sheet,  brail,  and  top- 
mast halyards,  that's  seven,  jib  halyards,  down  haul,  out- 
haul  and  sheets,  that's  twelve.  Flying  jib  ditto  ditto,  that's 
seventeen.  Tiller  ropes  and  painter,  that's  all,  total 
twenty.  Oh,  yes,  and  there's  the  signal  halyards,  that's 
twenty-two,  or  twenty-three  if  you  have  a  pair  on  your 
topmast." 

"  He  does  get  ahead  of  us,  that's  a  fact.  Commodore," 
drawled  the  Cook.  "  Now  I  can  only  make  out  two  hal- 
yards, two  sheets  and  a  painter,  five  in  all,  unless  I  count 
my  fish-line,  and  he  has  twenty-three.     I  give  it  up." 

"Yes,"  said  the  Vice  musingly,  "when  you  are  in  a 
Chrysalid  canoe,  properly  rigged,  you  have  a  sense  of 
completeness,  not  to  be  attained  elsewhere."  Then  sud- 
denly changing  the  subject : 

**  I  thought,"  said  he,  as  he  helped  himself  to  an  eighth 
slice  of  toast,  *'  that  I  was  lucky  when  the  Cook  kindly 
volunteered  to  carry  my  tent  as  a  seat,  and  thus  relieve  my 
boat  from  a  certain  amount  of  weight,  but  now  I  am  won- 
dering under  what  cover  this  expedition  will  sleep  to- 
night." It  so  happened  that  the  expedition  had  not  yet 
felt  the  loss  of  their  tent,  having  at  the  different  camps 
chanced  upon  lean-tos  and  other  adequate  substitutes. 

"  When  you  lack  information  on  any  matter  connected 
with  canoeing,"  said  the  Cook,  "  come  to  me."  The  Cook  \ 


A  SET  OF   RIGGING. 


77 


emptied  his  third  cup  (pint)  of  coffee,  unrolled  a  pack  in 
h.s  boat,  and  displayed  a  piece  of  stout  sheetinn-,  five 
yards  long  and  two  and  three-quarter  yards  wide,  with 
four  rope  loops  at  each  end  for  tent  pins,  and  a  row  of 
button-holes,  a  foot  apart,  along  each  edge.     He  also  dis- 


The  Cook's  Tent. 

played  two  triangular  pieces  of  the  same  material,  at  the 
bases  of  each  of  which  were  three  loops  for  pins,  and  along 

buttons. 


Button  these  to^eth 


whole  affair  up  on  poles,  and  cross  pol 
strung  tightly  between  two  trees,  and 
and  better  ventilated 


er  properly,"  said  he,  "set  the 


e,  or  across  a 


rope 


you  have  a  larsrei 


tent  than  the  one  I  left  in  the  Iak( 


7« 


CANOEING   IN   KANUCKIA. 


^ 


H'h 


m 


!    ''hi 


it  won't  weigh  half  as  much,  either.     Except  in  very  cold 
weather  or  driving  rain,  the  end  pieces  will  not  be  neces- 


The  Cook's  Tent. 

sary.  Indeed,  it  can  be  set  over  a  canoe,  so  as  to  cover 
all  the  open  portion  of  the  boat." 

The  whole  supper  table  gazed  admiringly,  until  the 
Commodore  asked, 

"  Why  have  the  holes,  instead  of  the  buttons,  on  the 
main  piece." 

"  So  that  you  may  affix  the  ends  either  from  the  in- 
side or  outside.  The  latter  is  the  easier  way,  but  oc- 
casionally the  wind  blowing  from  the  front,  will  come  in 
very  freely  between  the  fastenings  outside,  so  that  the 
canoeist  who  drops  asleep  with  a  head  full  of  pleasant 
dreams,  will  awake  with  a  head  full  of  neuralgia." 

"  And  if  it  rains,  what  is  to  prevent  this  tent  from  leak- 
ing like  a  sieve,  and  distributing  shower  baths  impartially 
among  the  clean  and  the  unclean  ?" 

"Two  things — a  steep  pitch  or  a  neat  coat  of  oil," 
said  the  Cook. 


Ill 


THE  COOK'S  TENT.  ;cj 

'•  The  water-proof  of  the  pudding  is  in  the  eating," 
remarked  the  Commodore,  who  had  begun  to  yawn. 
"  Set  the  tent  at  once." 

The  tent  was  set  on  a  h"ne  between  two  trees,  the 
front  remaining  open,   and  half  an  hour  later  there  lay 
within  it  four  men  who  were  beginning  fully  to  realize 
liow  delicious  weariness  may  become,  when  it  is  earned 
by    the    body    instead    of    the    brain.        With    sand   for 
matrcsses,  and  a  rubber    blanket    each   for   sheets,  they 
slept  more  soundly   than  they  had  ever  done  at  home 
upon  springs  and  between  linen.     The   only  visitations 
they  experienced  were  heavenly  ones.     Venus  glided  past 
the  open  front,  but  saw  no  one  there  over  whom  her  fas- 
tidious gaze  cared  to  linger.     Saturn  peeped  suspiciously 
in.  but  passed  on  contentedly,  assured  that  in  the  pres- 
ence  of  such  sound  sleepers  his  rings  were  as  safe  as  if 
they  were  Indian  Rings  at  Washington.     Mars  glared  in 
with  his  great  red  face,  but  the  quartette  had  been  all 
day  on  the  water,  under  an  unfamiliar  sun,  so  there  were 
four  fiery  faces  to  Mars'  one,  and  the  blazing  old  fellow 
went  offin  a  huff  and  got  behind  a  little  cloud  to  hide  his 
niortification. 


V. 


Il    i 


m 


«s 


SUNSHINE  AND   SHADOW. 

IF  the  reader  has  watched  with  any  interest,  the  devel- 
opment of  what  may  perhaps  without  offence  be 
termed  canoebial  character,  he  must  have  been  pained  to 
observe  that  however  fair  minded  the  average  canoeist 
may  be  in  other  respects,  neither  his  judgment  nor  his 
statements  can  be  trusted  where  his  own  boat  is  con- 
cerned. Of  this  fact  each  member  of  the  expedition  be- 
came convinced  in  the  course  of  the  first  day  out,  and  the 
authors  deem  it  their  duty  to  warn  the  public  against  in- 
discriminate behef  in  the  virtues  ascribed  to  different 
canoes  by  their  respective  owners.*  The  Statesman,  who 
has  associated  to  some  extent  with  sporting  men,  says, 
that  he  has  observed  a  Hke  trait  in  owners  of  horses,  dogs 


1: 


Commodore 
*  Note. — The  €t5ofe  wishes   it  to  be  understood  that  all  his  state- 
Becky  Sharp 
merits    regarding    the  Cherub    are    strictly    truthful,    but    really    when 

Cook  Cherub 

Commodoro  says  that  the  Beetey  Sharp — Well,  space  will  not  admit  of 
specifications. 


Hurray  !   I  had  thf.  last  look  at  that  proof. 


Commodore. 


il 


SUNSHINE   AND   SHADOW.  Sj 

'-^nd  yachts,  and  all  know  that  every  mother  discovers 
in  her  own  children  beauties  and  virtues  which  no  other 
J'ving  being  is  able  to  perceive.  Why  then,  should 
a  tra.t  which  is  beautiful  in  one  case  be  scoffed  at  in 
another?  The  authors  hold  that  a  sublime  faith  in  one's 
own  canoe,  is  one  of  the  noblest  sentiments  that  can  ani- 
mate the  human  breast. 

Morning  opened  with  the  usual  brisl<  breeze  rufflinn- 
tlie  lake  from    the  south,  and    the  fleet  made  all  prep! 
arations   to  continue   the    voyage    under   sail.      Hardlv 
howeven  were  they  clear  of  the  land  when  the  wind  fdi 
suddenly,  and  in  a  wonderfully  short  space  of  time  the 
ake  was  like  a  mill  pond.     An  occasional   puff  of  wind 
however,  justified  keeping  sails  set.  and  so  alternatincr  from 
paddle  to  canvas,  a  broad  expanse  was  passed,  an°d  the 
narrows "  neared   where   mountains  seemed   tryin<T  to 
shoulder  one  another  into  the  lake,  and  where,  as  if  They 
had  fallen  off  in  the  scuffle,  several  rocky,  wood-crowned 
islands  floated  double  as  it  were,  on  the  glassy  water,     iiv 
the  t.me  the  shadow  of  the  woods  was  reached,  all  hand's 
were  glad  to  stop  until  the  declining  sun  should  make 
mofon  a  little  more  endurable,  so  a  cool  and  shady  nook 
was  selected  where  .several  hours  were  spent  in  meditative 
contemplation  of  a,  lovely  a  panorama  as  ever  rested  the 
eyes  of  leisurely  voyagers. 

This  /,„W  «//.r  fashion  of  cruising  is  the  only  reallv 
enjoyable  plan.  Your  restless  spirits  will  push  on  and 
n.ake   thei^r   twenty-five   miles   a  day,  rain  or  shine,  but 


82 


CANOEING   IN   KANUCKIA. 


Wlf 


m 


i,. 

I-'. 

1 

'ii 

your  philosopher  is  content  it  may  be  with  five  or  six, 
and  recks  not  if  he  be  obliged  to  cut  his  journey  short  at 
its  latter  end.  So  the  hours  drifted  slowly  by  until  the 
mountains  threw  their  shadows  across  the  lake,  and  a 
gentle  breeze  once  more  invited  action. 

It  took  only  an  hour  or  two  to  run  out  from  the  shadow 
of  the  mountain  range,  and  see  stt 'Etching  out  toward  the 
north  the  low  lvin<T  hills  which  characterize  the  broad  St. 
Lawrence  Valley,  for  thitherward  tend  in  the  Canadas 
all  waters  that  run  down  hill.  The  lake,  too,  sr)rcad  out 
again,  its  edges  bordered  by  extensive  shallows  whereon 
grew  tall  graceful  bulrushes,  each  of  which  rose  six  or 
eight  feet  or  more  above  the  water,  tapering  beautifully 
and  smoothly  from  near  an  inch  in  diameter  at  the  base, 
to  a  needle-like  point  at  the  top.  Sometimes  when  the 
wind  was  fresh,  the  cruisers  Vv'ould  run  in  among  them. 
There  was  something  peculiarly  fascinating  in  thus  flying 
through  vast  green  stretches  of  rustling,  bending  reeds. 
The  breeze  was  almost  wholly  checked  near  th'i  water, 
but  the  peaks  of  the  sails  caught  it  above  the  supple 
rushes,  and  the  canoes  went  whistling  through  them, 
their  sharp  bows  dividing  the  green  stems  as  they  flew 
along,  and  a  broad  swath  bowing  under  the  booms  as 
they  swung  out  to  leeward. 

Now  and  then  a  startled  marsh  hen,  or  wild  fowl 
of  some  sort,  would  rise  almost  from  under  the  gunwales 
and  go  scuttling  off,  frightened  half  to  death  at  the  un- 
wonted invasion  of  her  retreat.     The  solitude  was  perfect. 


AMONG  THE   RUSHES. 


83 


The  canoeists  could  see  nothing  of  one  another  when  sep- 
arated by  a  few  yards.     Any  one  might  have  upset  and 


been  left  far  behind,  before  the  rest  could  have  discovered 
his  loss,  and  then  the  chance  of  ever  finding  him  would 
have  been  as  one  to  a  hundred.     However  the  water  was 


84 


CANOEING   IN    KANUCKIA. 


'i 

si, I 


N'tl 


I  . 


il 


m ' 


I 


only  two  or  three  feet  deep,  so  that  there  was  no  actual 
danger.  Along  such  tracts  as  this  the  fleet  coasted  this  af- 
ternoon, and  there  was  no  apparent  prospect  of  getting 
beyond,  or  through  the  reeds  to  find  a  camp.  The  lake 
was  wide,  and  it  was  not  expedient  to  cross  it  so  near 
night-fall,  and  with  a  threatening  skv.  So  sails  were 
prudently  furled  and  the  four  cruisers  paddled  along 
hoping  to  find,  somewhere,  an  opening  through  which 
the  land  could  be  reached.  The  sky  grew  dark.  Rain 
began  to  plash  around,  and  suddenly  night  shut  down, 
with  a  cold  driving  mist  and  not  a  glimmer  of  light  to 
show  the  bearings,  save  an  occasional  momentary  gleam 
from  one  of  the  little  light-houses  awav  off  toward  the 
north.  The  fleet  had  drawn  out  into  the  lake  in  order  to 
get  a  better  siL'^ht  at  the  coast  line,  and  here  it  rode  with 
the  heaving  water  all  around,  and  no  means  of  steering  to 
a  place  of  safety.  The  Vice  had  taken  the  bearings  with 
his  compass,  but  now  as  fast  as  a  lantern  was  lighted  to 
steer  by,  the  wind  blew  it  out,  so  there  was  nothing  for  it 
but  keep  together,  and  steer  b}'  the  sea.  After  a  some- 
what anxious  time,  with  startling  suddenness,  a  long 
dark  wall  seemed  to  rise  through  the  rain  and  drive 
Straight  forward  over  the  lake.  "  Hold  all "  was  the 
word  for  a  moment,  but  there  was  no  roar  of  surf,  only 
a  whistling  murmur  as  of  a  million  wings.  Then  the 
dark  wall  opened  and  the  reeds  were  recognized  as 
old  friends.  The  course  in  which  the  fleet  was  heading, 
had  been  entirely  problematical,  for  the  wind   was  very 


M\ 


TFTE    ROB    ROY   CUISINE. 


85 


gusty  and  variable,  but  it  v/as  certain  that  among  the 
countless  slender  stems  was  safety  from  the  fierccsr^ale 
that  ev^er  blew.  Pushing  inward  for  a  hundred  yards  or 
so,  the  boats  were  moored  side  by  side,  to  sheaves  of 
reeds,  and  their  occupants  proceeded  to  make  themselves 
as  comfortable  as  was  possible  under  the  circumstances, 
feeling,  as  the  Cook  remarked,  better  able  than  ever  be^ 
fore  to  appreciate  the  early  experiences  of  Moses. 

Now,  if  ever,  was  the  time  to  try  the   Purser's  "  Rob 
Roy  cuisine."     He  had   imported   it  at  great  outlay  of 
treasure   from  En<,da.id    and  had  repeatedly  explained  its 
beauties,  but  having  received  it  just  on  the  eve  of  depart- 
ure from  New  York,  he  had  never  practically  tested  its 
virtues,  and  the  professional  prejudices  of  the  Cook  were 
so  obstinately  in  favor  of  a  v/ood  fire,  that  he  could  never 
be  persuaded  to  use  a  substitute.     This  '^cuisine"  is  a 
canoeing  device  invented  by  Mr.  Macgre-or,  the  father 
of  modern  canoeing.     In  external  appearance  it  is  a  cir- 
cular  box  of  plated  copper.     The  main  part  of  the  box  is 
used   as  a   stew-pan,  the  top  as  a   frying-pan.     Moreover 
It  contains,  compactly  fitted,  an  alcohol   blast-lamp   and 
a   multitude    of   little    cooking    contrivances    which    are 
admirable  under  circumstances   like  those  in  which  the 
command  was  now  placed.  The  Purser  knew  by  heart  the 
theoretical  rules  for  managing  the   cuisine,   but  as   has 
been  stated,  had  never  put  them  in  practice. 

By  the  hght  of  the  little  lanterns,  he  now  took  out  the 
compact  apparatus,  opened  it,  filled  the  lamp,  placed  the 


ae 


CANOEING   IN   KANUCKIA. 


Ill 


I    :! 


Standard  on  his  forward  deck,  struck  a  match  and  apph'ed 
it  to  the  aperture.  An  innocent,  bluish  flame  appeared, 
flickered  for  a  moment,  gathered  strength,  burst  into  a 
roar,  shot  upward  three  feet,  shook  itself,  and  prepared 
seemingly  to  consume  the  entire  fleet.  The  Purser  shrank 
backward  as  far  as  the  narrow  limits  of  his  Chrysalid 
would  allow,  and  glared  helplessly  at  the  vicious  little 
engine,  while  he  made  abortive  efforts  to  reduce  it  to 
decorum.  The  rest  shipped  their  cables  and  hauled  ofl*, 
leaving  him  to  his  fate. 

"  Kick  it  overboard." 

"  Put  your  hat  on  it." 

*«  Blow  it  out." 

•'  Douse  that  glim,"  were  some  of  the  directions 
shouted,  as  muskrats  skurried  away  into  the  darkness, 
and  an  owl  and  one  or  two  bats  swooped  within  the  circle 
of  light  to  see  what  was  up.  But  the  Purser  remembered 
the  bill  he  had  paid,  and  resolved  to  risk  his  life  rather 
than  lose  his  **  cuisine." 

As  the  roaring  continued  without  abatement  and  with 
no  disastrous  results,  it  presently  occurred  to  the  Cook 
that  here  was  a  splendid  heat  going  to  waste.  In  a  trice 
he  had  the  coffee  pot  in  position,  and  in  a  marvelously 
short  time  more  each  man  had  a  cup  of  hot  coffee  and  a 
rude  sandwich,  cut  hap-hazard  from  a  half  soaked  loaf. 
The  Rob  Roy  cuisine  was  unanimously  voted  a  success, 
■where  for  any  reason  an  ordinary  fire  cannot  be  lighted. 

It  is  not  pretended   that  a  remarkably  comfortable 


■I-  ■ 


s&MM 


THE   ROB   ROY  CUISINE. 


87 


night  followed  this  episode,  but  it  was  much  better  than 
drivinor  aimlessly  before  the  wind  on  the  lake,  and  most 
of  the  party  managed  to  get  some  sleep  under  their 
rubber  blankets.  At  any  rate  the  expedition  was  safe, 
and  its  members  could  listen  without  concern  to  the  gale 
that  roared  a  few  feet  over  their  heads,  but  touched 
them  not. 


VI. 


iW 


MY   NATIVE   LAND,    FAREWELL. 


t     '  ' 


MORNING  dawned  on  a  somewhat  forlorn  set  of 
castaways.  Every  man  was  more  or  less  damp, 
not  to  sav  wet,  and  the  Vice  with  his  bedras^sled  mutton- 
chop  whiskers  presented  a  peculiarly  lugubrious  appear- 
ance as  he  exasperated  the  Americans  of  the  party  by 
singing  in  the  pitch  of  an  Irish  "  keen  "  the  old  Southern 
air  *'  Maryland,  My  Maryland." 

The  day  promised  to  be  a  fair  one,  and  by  sunrise 
land  had  been  reached,  a  fire  built,  dry  clothes  extracted 
from  bags  and  water-tight  compartments,  and  amiability' 
once  more  asserted  its  mild  and  benignant  sway  over 
the  depressed  spirits  of  the  command.  This  was  the  last 
day  on  the  lake,  although  its  lower  end  was  on  a  small 
scale  what  the  geographers  might  almost  term  a  lacus- 
trine river.  It  was  broad,  that  is,  and  at  times  nearly 
currentless.  The  nominal  division  between  lake  and 
river,  however,  -vas  marked  by  a  railway  bridge  and  here 
it  was  understood  the  fleet  must  stop  for  official  recogni- 
tion by  her  majesty's  representative  before  crossing  the 
Dominion  line.  The  town  lay  low  along  the  lake  shore, 
and  under  the  shelter  of  a  wooden  break-water  the  fleet 


'■ 


\i ' 


\ 


THE   BRITISH   CONSUL. 


89 


successfully  effected  a  landing.  The  Commodore,  after  a 
few  moments  spent  in  makiny^  himself  look  as  respectable 
as  possible,  set  off  on  his  official  visit  to  the  J^ritish 
Consulate.     As  he  departed,  the  Vice  asked  if  the  needed 


i 


'^■ 


"  But  the  Consul's  brow  was  sad." 

Stores  were  not  to  be  purchased  at  this  point,  and  before 
the  expedition  entered  alien  if  not  hostile  waters. 

*'  Of  course  not,"  said  the  Cook.  "  You  can  buy  bet- 
ter things  for  half  the  money  in  Canada." 

"  Under  a  monarchical  government,"  added  the  Purser. 


M 


50 


CANOEING   IN   KANUCKTA. 


1 1 


■•■i:; 


(3 


,( 


9  i 


I    V, 
;   If' 


i  ■   I 

i  i    ■ 
( 


*'  That  13  undoubtedly  the  best  plan,"  said  the  Com- 
modore. 

"  Now  look  here.  I'm  a  citizen  of  the  United  States," 
began  the  Vice,  but  the  Purser,  the  Cook  and  the  Com- 
modore fled  in  as  many  different  directions  and  left  him 
gesticulating  solus  upon  the  lonely  shore. 

Presently  the  Commodore  returned,  followed  shortly 
by  the  British  Consul,  who  wished  to  assure  himself  that 
the  squadron  was  not  the  advance  guard  of  a  Fenian  ex- 
pedition. The  Vice  begged  the  right  to  receive  him  offi- 
cially in  the  Commodore's  stead,  and  this  favor  being 
granted,  the  Consul  was  treated  to  half  an  hour  of  impas- 
sioned eloquence  upon  the  rights  of  man. 

Meanwhile  the  breeze  freshened  and  inflated  itself  to 
the  size  of  a  gale.  Sloops  and  sail  boats  began  to  huddle 
together  behind  the  little  breakwater.  The  custom-house 
officer  kindly  offered  to  find  a  trusty  guard  for  the  canoes 
while  their  officers  should  go  ashore,  but  the  suggestion 
was  declined  with  thanks.  The  Purser  longed  to  be  on 
British  soil  once  more,  the  Vice  was  impatient  to  pat  his 
own  love  of  country  on  the  back,  by  observing  how  much 
more  miserably  England's  subjects  exist  than  do  those  of 
his  own  happy  land,  the  Commodore  saw  a  fort  in  the  dis- 
tance, which  he  and  the  Cook,  having  once  been  soldiers, 
were  impatient  to  inspect,  and  the  Cook  pined  for  Canada, 
because  he  understood  that  the  expeditionary  butter  pail 
might  there  be  more  cheaply  refilled.  Then  the  humane 
custom-house  officer  appealed  to  their  sense  of  personal 


. 


IJ: 


■V 


MISDIRECTKD    PATRIOTISM. 


91 


i  I 


safety,  to  their  regard  for  the  friends  and  creditors  who 
might  mis'i  them  if  they  were  drowned,  as  they  surely 
would  be  if  they  ventured  out  in  such  a  storm.  But  the 
eye  of  Britannia  was  gazing  upon  the  expedition  from 
under  the  pith  helmet  of  the  Consul,  so  the  Commodore 
roared, 

"  Prepare  to  pass  bridge  !  Strike  standincf  rigging  ! 
Club  and  private  signals  fore  and  aft  !  " 

"One  minute,  Commodore,"  shouted  the  Vice,  who 
was  dancing  frantically  about  his  boat,  "  where  shall  I  dis- 
play the  flag  of  Our  Country  ?  "  And  the  Vice  reverently 
drew  a  small  American  flag  from  his  bosom. 

"  Display  it  in  your  pocket,"  replied  the  Commodore, 
rudely.     "  Forward  !  " 

The  Vice  glared  angrily,  and  got  as  far  with  a  reply 
as  to  shout,  "  The  Alderman  always — "  when  the  sight 
of  the  Cherub,  the  Arethusela  and  the  Becky  Sharp, 
dancing  vivaciously  on  the  big  waves  as  their  respective 
commanders  plied  their  paddles  rapidly,  each  with  the 
intention  of  being  the  first  to  pass  between  the  piles  of  the 
bridge  and  cross  the  Dominion  line,  caused  the  Vice  to  be- 
come inspired  with  the  strongest  sentiment  acquired  in  the 
practice  of  statesmanship,  namely,  that  nothing  is  so  dis- 
astrous as  to  be  left  behind.  The  wind  being  directly 
abaft,  there  could  be  no  possible  doubt  as  to  the  fate  of 
any  commander  or  boat  that  might  be  dashed  against 
the  piles,  particularly  if  he  first  got  into  the  trough  of  the 
sea,  and  was  cast  up  broadside.     Each  man  braced  him- 


■ 


'» 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0 


I.I 


ULM2.6     12.5 

2.0 


—    6" 


HiotQgraphic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


23  WBT  MAM  STRitT 

WIB$Tllt,N.Y.  I4SM 
(716)  •73-4503 


r<\^ 


q^^ 


S> 


V 


<i^ 


C^ 


'^ 


^ 

%\^ 

m 
t^ 


i^' 


92 


CANOEING   IN   KANUCKIA. 


;  T 


11 


! ; 


m 


!<% 


self,  leaning  warily  forward,  each  paddle  performed  won- 
drous and  unexpected  gyrations  in  air,  and  the  colors 
vanished  and  darted  up  ai^ain  like  guidons  in  a  cavalry 
fi"ht.  The  commodorial  helmet  was  blown  off  at  this 
juncture,  and  in  recovering  it  the  flag  ship  had  fallen 
some  distance  to  the  rear.  Noting  this  with  some  disgust, 
the  Commodore  successfully  executed  a  tactical  movement 
which  redounded  greatlv  to  his  own  glorv.     He  shouted, 

"  On,  first  division,  deploy  column.  Squadron  into  line  ; 
Guide  Right,  March  !  (when  manoeuvering  the  squadron, 
the  Commodore  was  everlastingly  bothered  by  unbidden 
reminiscences  of  army  tactics,  which  led  him  to  enunciate 
orders  applicable  to  the  handling  of  a  battalion  instead  of 
a  fleet.) 

The  effect  of  this  command  was  to  subject  the  squad- 
ron to  the  moral  influence  of  discipline ;  it  was  also  to 
arrest  for  an  instant  the  progress  of  the  three  boats  which 
had  distanced  the  Commodore's,  for  it  was  the  flag-ship 
itself  that  was  at  the  right,  and  upon  this  the  squadron 
was  to  align  itself.  The  principal  effect  was  to  give  the 
wily  Commodore  the  advantage  of  a  boat's  length.  The 
Vice  comprehended  the  trick  only  v/hen  it  was  too  late, 
and  the  gnashing  of  his  teeth  could  be  distinctly  heard 
above  the  whistling  of  the  gale.  But  if  distanced  by 
trickery,  he  at  least  could  console  himself  with  patriot- 
ism, which  is  the  last  refuge  of  a  Statesman.*  Wildly  he 
snatched  the  flag  of  his  country  from  his  pocket ;  proudly 

*  This  was  not  the  noun  used  by  Dr.  Johnson  in  his  famous  definition 
of  patriotism. 


TIIK    UNITED   STATES   GARRISON. 


93 


he  waved  it  aloft  as  tlie  nose  of  his  canoe  shot  safely  be- 
tween the  piles.  Gloric  -sly  the  holy  rag  fluttered  in  the 
air  for  an  instant ;  then  it  wrapped  a  fold  about  a  hu-e  oak 
splinter  of  one  of  the  under-timbers  of  the  brid-e,  whicli 
nearly  dislocated  the  Vice's  shoulder  in  passinrr.     Then 


T^^^'T'^-r-l^ 


The  U  iiitc.l  Slates  Garrison . 

it  concluded  to  remain  where  it  was,  and  there  it  flutters 
to  this  day.  to  show  to  timorous  mariners  where  the  "-al- 
lant  Vice  passed  the  brid^re.  As  for  the  Vice  himself,  he 
dropped  his  paddle  as  he  emerjred,  several  lengths  behind 
every  body  else,  into  the  comparatively  still  water  behind 
the  bridge;  then  he  rubbed  his  agonized  shoulder,  and 
remarked, 

"  Patriotism  always  did  play  the  devil  u«^th  Statesmen." 

The  squadron  now  drifted  under  the  granite  walls  of 

a  United  States  fort,  which  commanded  the  approaches 


'  I 


m 


94 


CANOEING  IN   KANUCKIA. 


from  Her  Majesty's  dominions.  It  bore  the  marks  of 
neglect  usually  seen  in  an  unoccupied  and  unfinished  fort, 
but  as  the  canoes  drew  near,  signs  of  life  manifested 
themselves  about  the  sally-port,  and  in  less  time  than  it 
takes  to  write  it  the  entire  garrison  had  embarked  and 
was  advancing  to  reconnoitre  the  approaching  fleet.  A 
parley  ensued  to  the  mutual  edification   of  both  parties, 


m 


m 


11 


The  Purser  on  British  Soil. 

and  then  the  race  for  the  Dominion  line  was  resumed  and 
easily  won  by  the  Purser,  who  paddled  into  water  so  shoal 
that  the  mud  was  visible  just  below  the  surface.  He 
turned  his  boat  on  her  centre  as  rapidly  as  a  man  could 
do  with  a  canoe  of  the  Chrysalid  patterrt  ;  then  he  arose 
and  exclaimed,  as  the  Vice  and  the  Cook  drew  up, 

"  Gentlemen,  this  is  the  first  time  in  eight  years  that 
I've  stood  upon  British  soil.  '  God  save  the  Queen  !  * 
say  I,  and  three  cheers  " — 

*'  You're  not  on  British  soil,"  interrupted   the  Vice ; 


M 


THE   PURSER   AS   A   PATRIOT. 


95 


"you're  on  British  water."  But  the  Purser,  unmindful 
of  the  interruption,  had  "got  as  far  as  "  hip,  hip  !  "—when 
the  motion  of  raising  his  hat  destroyed  his  equihbrium, 
and  a  second  later  he  was  more  than  knee  deep  in  a 
hummock  of  Ln-eyish-biuc  mud. 

"Now  you're  on   British   soil,"  continued   the  Vice; 
'•  how  do  you  like  it  as  far  as  you've  j^^ot  ?  " 

But  the  unchanged  ecstasy  of  the  Purser's  patriotic 
face  banished  from  the  hearts  of  his  companions  any 
memories  of '76  and  1812  that  might  have  been  hiding 
there,  and  the  three  cheers  were  heartily  ir'ivcn  with  a 
supplementary  "tiger,"  which  was  fully  as  noisy  as  if  it 
had  been  one  of  the  tigers  native  to  the  royal  lady's  own 
Indian  Empire. 

The  Purser  extracted  himself  with  some  difficulty 
from  his  native  clay,  and  all  paddled  to  a  shelving  beach 
for  the  noontide  rest,  the  Cook  and  the  G(3mmodo"re  strik- 
ing  up  -God  save  the  Queen."  out  of  compliment  to  the 
Purser.  The  others  joined  in  and  the  notes  of  the  noble 
old  anthem  rang  far  across  the  water  until  it  was  noticed 
that  the  Vice  was  patriotically  roaring  the  words: 

"  My  Country 'tis  of  thee 
Sweet  land  of  libertee." 

• 

instead    of    the    original.      The   other   two   Americans, 
although  they  were  old  United  States  soldiers,  could  not    . 
brook  this  gratuitous  affront  to  their  English  companion, 
so  they  vigorously  attacked  the  Vice  with  their  paddles 
and  spattered   him   till    he  was  fain    to   cry  "quarter." 


I* 


If; 


ft 


15 


'If 


u 


96 


CANOEIxVG   IN   KANUCKIA. 


Then  the  bows  grated  on  the  sand,  and  sprini^^infj  h'ghtly 
ashore,  the  Vice  mounted  a  boulder  and  delivered  himi-elf 
as  follows,  while  the  rest,  dumb  with  amazement,  sat  in 
their  boats  to  listen  and  applaud  : 

* "  I'\ir  be  it  from  me  fellow-citiz  —mariners,  to  dis- 
turb the  harmony  of  this  joyful  occasion.  We  are 
gathered  to-night  almost  upon  the  very  spot  where  Char- 
treaux  and  Champlain  and  Vanjohn  and  Rouget  Noir 
fit  the  Injuns  and  made  them  knuckle  to  the  Jesuit 
Fathers,  with  none  to  molest  nor  make  them  afraid. 
Here  subsequently  Lord  Howe  and  Commodore  Van- 
derbilt  marched  their  squadrons  and  manueuvercd  their 
battalions,  and  spliced  the  main  brace,  and  shivered  their 
timbers  according  to  the  dictates  of  their  own  consciences. 
Did  any  of  them  ever  go  back  on  their  environment  ? 
No  ;  contrariwise  they  harmonized,  and  shall  we  their 
successors  fail  to,do  likewise  ?  Never,  gentlemen,  never. 
It  has  been  hurled  in  our  faces  by  the  honorable  gentle- 
man from  England,  that  the  great  rejiublic  is  rotten  with 
corruption — that  our  highest  officers  are  not  above 
peculation.  Let  me  ask  that  honorable  gentleman  and 
his  allies  (here  the  Statesman  indicated  the  Commodore 
and  the  Cook,)  if  any  president  of  the  United  States  ever 
stole  corn  meal  and  had  his  disgraceful  act  perpetuated 
in  his  country's  literature?  I  pause  for  a  reply.  None? 
Then  none  has  ever  done  such  a  deed.  And  vet,  gentle- 
men,  it  is  recorded  of  one  of  the  most  exemplary  of  Eng- 

*  Reported  in  full  on  the  spot  by  the  Editor. 


I 


' 


i  I 

II 


THE    STATESMAN   CEASES. 


97 


lish  monarchs  that  lie  not  only  stole  the  then  current 
equivalent  of  corn  meal,  but  caused  it  to  be  usetl 
on  the  royal  table.  I  invite  you  to  join  me  in  siiv^^- 
uv^  a  soncj  to  the  glory  of  Old  Knjj^land— one,  two, 
three  ;  sin;^  J 

(Air  Aulcl  I.ang  Syne.) 

When  good  Kiiv^  Arthur  riilfd  this  hind, 

lie  was  a  s^oodly  hiiii^. 
He  stole  three  pecks  of  barley  meal. 

To  make  a  hag-puddincj. 

A  ba<T-pudding  the  Queen  did  make, 

And  stuffed  it  well  with  jjlums, 
And  in  it  put  great  hinips  of  fat, 
As  l)ig  as  my  two  thuml)s. 

The  King  and  Queen  did  eat  thereof, 

And  noblemen  beside. 
And  what  they  could  not  eat  that  niglit, 

The  Queen  next  morning  fried. 

(Great  applause.) 

"  Can  anything  more  clearly  indicate  a  low  moral  sen- 
timent than  the  existence,  and  acknowledged  popularity 
of  this  song?  Fellow  citizens  (carried  away  by  the  tide 
of  eloquence  the  Statesman  forgot  to  say  shipmates)  and 
you,  sir,  whose  alien  friendship  J  am  proud  to  own, 
although  the  unfortunate  accident  of  a  foreign  birth  (for 
which  I  cannot  blame  you,)  opens  a  chasm  between  us— 
fellow  citizens,  I  have  done.  My  native  land  is  behind 
me.  I  now  appeal  for  protection  to  the  Oueen  of  Encr. 
land,  and  for  the  time  being  repudiate  the  American 
Eagle— though  with  all  his  faults  I  love  him  still." 


I 


98 


CANOEING   IN   KANUCKIA. 


It' 


I  h 


Amid  thunders  of  applause  the  Vice  jumped  down 
and  inquired  why  hmcheon  was  not  ready. 

After  an  hour's  rest  and  refreshment  in  a  sheltered 
nook,  the  squadron  proceeded  on  its  way  under  paddle, 
the  wind  havinc;  died  out,  makincT  for  a  heavilv  wooded 
island  visible  several  miles  distant,  on  which  it  was  sur- 
mised there  would  be  good  camping  ground.  Islands 
indeed  proved  to  be  the  most  satisfactory  camping  places 
that  were  found  during  the  expedition,  and  were  invaria- 
bly selected  when  practicable. 

The  squadron  paddled  socially  along,  side  by  side, 
until  the  Cook  stopped  his  stroke  and  fell  behind.  As 
he  seemed  to  be  engaged  in  making  some  not  very  satis, 
factory  arrangement  of  his  luggage,  the  Commodore 
ranged  alongside  and  asked  what  was  the  matter. 

"  I  can't  fix  my  seat  so  as  to  be  comfortable.' 

"  Thought  so.' 

"  How  do  you  fix  yours  ?  " 

"  Why  this  way,"  and  the  Commodore,  vacated  his 
seat,  turning  round  and  sitting  on  his  forward  thwart,  so 
as  to  afibrd  an  unobstructed  view.  The  two  other  canoes 
had  now  drawn  near. 

*'  Look  at  that,"  said  the  Vice.  "  He  can  stand  up 
and  turn  round  without  upsetting  in  that  old  tub  of  his." 

"  So  can  I,"  said  the  Cook,  suiting  the  action  to  the 
word. 


<< 


So  cannot  we,"  said  the  Purser,  and  the  Vice.     *'  But 


what  are  you  looking  at  ? 


.1- 


A  CONVENIENT  SEAT. 


99 


It  is  a  characteristic  of  Chrysalid  canoeists  that  they 
never  notice  anything  outside  of  their  own  boats  until 
they  bring  up  all  standing,  as  it  were,  against  it.     Hence 


the  Commojore's  seat  was  a  novelty  to  them,  and  they 
gazed  upon  it  with  mute  admiration. 

The  blocks  in  which  the  cross-pieces  rest,  are  screwed 
to  the  inside  of  the  canoe.    The  cross-pieces  are  ash  sticks 


I  I 


lOO 


CANOEING   IN   KANUCKIA. 


lit'  I 


t  I 


1: 


III 


M 


about  an  inch  in  diameter.  They  are  fourteen  inches 
apart.  Over  and  around  them  is  passed  a  piece  of  four- 
teen inch  canvas,  with  grommets  for  laciiv^  on  the  under 
side.  The  scat  should  liave  a  sHtjht  slope  aft  and  should 
be  so  placed  that  a  back-board  will  rest  conveniently 
aj^ainst  the  after  thwart  or  bulkhead.  If  the  cross-pieces 
s))rinfj  too  much,  two  bits  of  wood  cut  to  fit  between 
them  on  cither  side  of  the  canvas  will  make  the  whole 
structure  very  firm  and  elastic.  A  simpler  arrangement  is 
a  movable  thwart  made  of  half-inch  pine,  with  cross-pir  ^"^ 
tongucd  and  grooved  across  the  ends  to  prevent  splitting. 
If  made  eighteen  inches  wide,  such  a  thwart  may  be  used 
for  a  lee-board,  as  the  canoeist  should  sit  on  or  near  the 
bottom  of  his  craft  when  under  canvas. 

"  There  are  some  advantages  about  Red  Lake  canoes," 
said  the  Vice. 

"  Very  plebeian  though,"  said  the  Cook,  satirically  ; 
'*  their  principal  mission  is  to  go  cruising  with  Chrysalids 
in  the  capacity  of  tenders." 

"  Yes,"  said  the  Vice,"  I  admit  their  carrying  capacity." 

"  And  their  superior  speed,"  said  the  Cook. 

"  And  their  great  stability,"  added  the  Commodore. 
So  with  cheerful  chaff  the  fleet  went  on  its  way,  and  in 
a  couple  of  hours  was  making  camp  on  a  pretty  island, 
evidently  a  resort  for  picnickers  and  which  was  playfully 
called  "  Murderer's  Isle,"  from  an  unpleasant  episode  of 
early  days. 

The  Commodore,  having  noted  an  abundance  of  drift 


TIIF    nCTUUESQUK. 


lor 


lying  about,  detailed   liimself  to   procure    firc-wood,  and 
stretched    at    full    length    upon   the  dry  sand,   leisurely 
tossed    fragments   of  wood   toward   the   spot  where   the 
Cook  was  engaged  in  the  soothing  attempt  to  light  a  fire 
with  damp  paper  and  wet  matches,  and    the   Purser  wa>^ 
scraping,  within  the  water's  cqU^c,  a  hole  to  be  used  after 
supper  as  a  dish-pan,  when  the   expedition  suddenly  ob- 
tained  its  first  foreign  view  of  the  picturesque.    From  the 
shore  of  the  main  land  there  crept  out  something  which 
at  first  bore  itself  somewhat  as  indicated  on  the  next  page. 
It   finally   resolved   itself  into   a   strange  craft  which 
seemed  to  be  a  generous   pig-trough   remodelled  by  one 
with  yearnings  after  the  art  of  the   undertaker.     Stand- 
ing,  yet   bent    nearly   double,  in    the   stern    was  a  sliHit. 
short   old    man.  clothed    in    raiment   utterlv  unlike  an\-- 
thing   which  any   member  of  the    expedition  had  ever 
seen  at  home.      The  old    man    paddled    his    boat   at  a 
surprising  rate  of  speed    directly  toward    the    camp  of 
the  expedition,  and  as  he  did  so  the  gazers    gradually 


The  Picturesque  afar. 

lost  their  enjoyment  of  the  picturesque  in  the  realization 
of  a  dread  duty  about  to  devolve  upon  them  for  the  first 
time  during  the  cruise.  The  old  man  being  a  Canadian, 
it  naturally  resulted  that  he  must   be  a  Frenchman,  and 


T 


m 


I: 
ill 


i 


.1 


.  i 


P- 

J  ■  I 


I   ■ 

't  I  « 

■t  t  i 


102 


CANOEING   IN    KANUCKIA. 


incapable  of  Enj^Iish.  Who  was  to  converse  with  him? 
The  Cook,  who  had  picked  up  some  French  amonjr  the 
Louisiana  Creoles,  but  had  not  for  ten  years  heard   or 


The  Picturesque  anear. 

spoken  a  word  of  the  beautiful  language,  modestly  retired 
behind  the  Commodore's  broad  shoulders.  The  silence  " 
began  to  be  terrible,  but  it  was  bliss  compared  with  the 
sensation  with  which  the  group  shuddered  when  the 
strange  craft  slid  noiselessly  and  darkly  up  the  beach,  and 
her  crew  partially  undoubled  himself  and  remarked, 

"  Wahu  ei  hoo  mi  eh  ha  ma  ?  " 

"  Three  mariners  involuntarily  dropped  back  a  pace  or 
two;  the  fourth  (the  Cook)  felt  secure  in  his  inconspicu- 
ousness  until  he  discovered  that  he  had  been  dropped  to 
the  ground  by  the  Commodore's  backward  movement, 
and  that  the  Commodore  was  nervelessly  sitting  upon 
him.  At  length  the  Vice,  whose  admiration  for  the 
French  Commune  had  caused  him  to  immure  himself 
many  a  night  with  some  ex-Communists  who  had  escaped 
to  America,  asked  in  faltering  tones, 

"  Q'est-ce-que  vous  voulez  ?  " 

"  That's  it,"  gasped  the  Cook,  as  he  endeavored  to 


/ith  him? 
nongf  the 
heard   or 


tly  retired 
he  silence  " 
i  with  the 
when  the 
beach, and 
ked, 

c  a  pace  or 
nconspicu- 
dropped  to 
novement, 
tting  upon 
Dn  for  the 
re  hinnself 
lad  escaped 


eavored  to 


TIIK   ANCIKNT    MAKINKK. 


>03 


reanimate  the  Commodore's  spinal  cord  with  the  sh.irp 
end  of  a  quill  toothpick,  "  make  the  ancient  mariner  ex- 
plain himself." 

Hut  the  Ancient  Mariner  only  shook  his  head  with  a 
vague  look,  and  said. 


Wahu  ei  hoo  mi  eh  ha  ma  .' 

*•  O  hyu  wuh  oo  mi  en  ?  " 

Then  the  Commodore,  who  had  lived  a  year  in  Paris, 
and  was  familiar  with  the  polite  phrases  there  in  vogue, 
said, 


I04 


CANOEING  IN   KANUCKIA. 


,ti'    ] 


J     I 

if   •! 

ri 
in 

r; 


in 


"  Voulez-vous  pourboire  ?  " 

The  old  rricin  shook  his  head,  scrutinized  the 
parly  closely,  read  the  names  of  the  boats,  and  ex- 
claimed, 

"  Haw  hihi." 

Then  the  Purser,  who  before  he  left  Oxford  had  made 
a  French  translation  of  the  "Antigone"  of  Sophocles, 
which  competent  jud'gcs  pronounced  superior  to  that  of 
Voltaire,  stepped  a  pace  to  the  front  to  hide  his  blanched 
countenance,  and  said, 

"  Nous  ne  comprenons  pas." 

And  the  old  man  replied, 

"  Haw  hihi,  hahu  ?  " 

By  this  time  the  Cook,  who  had  extricated  himself 
from  beneath  the  ruins  of  the  Commodore,  was  discreetly 
and  rapidly  seeking  the  leafy  coverts  of  the  forest,  but 
the  Vice  detected  hirn  and  dragged  him  back.  The 
Cook  put  on  an  air  of  bravery  and  exclaimed, 

"  It's  no  use,  boys  ;  I'm  convinced  that  he's  a  Basque, 
who  has  strayed  up  into  France,  and  somehow  got  over 
here.  I  speak  half  a  dozen  languages,  but  there  are  no 
aflfinities  between  the  Ba.>-:que  and  any  other  known  dia- 
lect. It  will  be  just  as  well  to  talk  English  to  him  as 
anything  else,  so  here  goes.  Say,  old  friend,  we  don't 
know  what  you're  driving  at,  but  " — here  a  happy  thought 
struck  the  Cook,  "  say  it  over  again."  And  while  'he 
Cook  listened  attentively,  the  old  man  repeated  his  first 
inquiry, 


THE   COOK  TO   THE    RESCUE. 


lO: 


<' 


"  Wahu  ei  hoo  mi  eh  ha  ma?  " 

"Certainly!"    exclaimed    the    Cook     briskly,    'Miow 
much  do  you  ask  for  them  ?" 

"  Hihi  heh,"  replied  the  old  man  with  great  animation. 
"  It's  a  bargain,"  said  the  Cook  ;  "  Purser,  please  give 
the  ancient  mariner  half  a  dollar  ?  "     And  then  the  Cook, 
with  the  air  of  a  man  who  comprehended  the  wisdom  of 
the  ages,  explained  to  his  astonished  auditors.    ''Gentle- 
men,  our  visitor  is  not   a   Frenchman  at  all;    he   is  an 
Irishman   whose   palate  has  departed,  and    he  wants   to 
know  if  we  will  buy  two  pike  and  a  bass—'  hoo  mi  eh  ha 
ma,'— you  know."  The  old  man  in  the  meantime  hurried 
to  his  boat,  paddled  off  to  a  crate  anchored  on  the  edge 
of  the  channel,  and  returned  with  a  string  of  fish  in   the 
full  vigor  of  life. 

The  three  linguists  sat  deliberately  down  upon  the 
sand,  and  their  lips  remained  closed  until  coaxed  from 
their  obduracy  by  the  mingled  odors  of  coffee,  fried  fish, 
buttered  toast  and  canned  peaches.  The  Vice  was  heard 
to  mutter,  -  French  I  can  talk  and  most  patois  I  can 
understand,  but  Basque  complicated  with  loss  of  palate 
throws  me."  Presently  however  he  began  to  exhibit  symp- 
toms  of  his  accustomed  loquacity. 

It  so  happened  that  the  supper  table  was  sustained 
by  resting  against  the  cut-water  of  the  Cherub,  and  it 
gradually  dawned  upon  the  Vice  that  there  was  some- 
thing peculiar  about  her  construction,  something,  that 
is,  different   from  the  construction  of  a  Chrysalid  which 


il^t! 


,ifi    ii 


i<i?' 


i-« 


I  '  \» 


■/) 


NAVAL  ARCHITECTURE. 


107 


which  is  built  in  the  orthodox  style,  known  as  lap-streak 
or  clinker,  the  planks  being  of  quarter-inch  white  cedar, 
and  the  timbers  of  well  seasoned  oak.  Said  he,  address- 
ing the  owners  of  the  Red  Lakers  : 

"  Why  don't  the  joints  between  your  planking  show  ?  " 
"  Because  the  boats  are  not  built  in  that  way,"  said 
the  Cook. 

"  But  that's  no  way  to  build  a  boat  ;  the  seams  can't 
be  made  tight  unless  the  planks  over-lap.  Look  at  the 
Rochefort." 

"  Very  true,"  said  the  Commodore,  **  but  our  boats 
don't  seem  to  leak  so  very  much  more  than  yours  do,  for 
all  that." 

"  How  are  they  built  any  how?  "  and  the  Purser  and 
the  Vice  simultaneously  arose  and  examined  the  Red 
Lakers  by  moonlight  and  firelight. 

Mention  has  already  been  made  of  the  characteristic 
indifference  of  Chrysalid  owners  to  all  canoes  which  are 
not  Chrysalids  until  some  chance  occurrence  forces  them 
to  make  examination. 

In  this  respect  they  strikingly  resemble  certain  ecclesi- 
astical sects,  which  rest  serenely  ignorant  of  other  denom- 
inations, until  they  stumble  upon  information  inadver- 
tently, which  startles  into  respectful  investigation. 

•*  Why  they  are  perfectly  smooth  inside  and  out,"— 
"  no  timbers  at  all,"—"  what  lots  of  rivets,"  were  some 
of  the  remarks. 

"  Certainly,  haven't  we  told  you  so  a  dozen  times," 


It 


III  -.p 

pi 


I      i 


<!  T 


I'li 


:' 


I  08 


CANOEING    IN   KANUCKIA. 


said  the  Cook,  "  and  you  never  looked  at  them  be- 
fore." 

*'  How  do  you  suppose  they  are  made  ?  "  asked  the 
Vice. 

*'  I  am  informed,"  repHed  the  Commodore,  "  that  thin 
strips  of  white  cedar  are  steamed  and  bent  transversely 
over  an  exact  model  or  "  last "  of  the  intended  canoe. 
The  edges  are  straight  so  that  they  fit  closely  against 
one  another.  When  all  these  are  in  place,  a  longitudinal 
outside  sheathing  of  cedar  or  other  wood,  butternut  in  the 
case  of  our  boats,  is  copper-fastened  to  the  inner  lining, 
the  nails  being  driven  through  both  thicknesses  at  short 
intervals,  and  clinched  on  the  inside.  The  ribs  and 
sheathing  as  used  by  the  builder  are  each  a  quarter-inch 
thick,  so  that  the  total  thickness  is  half  an  inch.  The 
canoe  is  perfectly  free  from  ribs  inside,  and  from  the 
raised  edges  outside,  and  cannot  leak  while  she  remains 
sound.  Her  strength  is  necessarily  immense  from  the 
way  in  which  she  is  put  together." 

"  I  think,"  added  the  Cook,  "  that  we  get  a  good  deal 
of  speed  out  of  this  model  from  the  absence  of  the  over- 
laps which  are  unavoidable  in  clinker  built  boats.  These 
necessarily  hold  the  water  to  an  extent  which  must  be 
appreciable  in  so  light  a  craft.  Moreover,  the  fore  and  aft 
curve  of  the  bottom  line  rids  them  of  a  deal  of  what 
builders  call  '  skir. -friction.'  Recent  experiments  indicate 
that  a  shape  like  the  bowl  of  a  spoon  offers  the  least 
resistance  in  passing  over  the  surface  of  water." 


NAVAL   C(JNSTKUCTIOX. 


109 


*•  Your  boats  approximate  to  the  spoon  shape,  that's  a 
fact,"  said  the  Purser. 

"Look  at  those  rivets,"  remarked  the  Vice,  "they 
make  her  look  as  though  she  were  freckled." 

"Granted,"  was  the  Cook's  answer,  "but  are  not 
freckles  beautiful  when  they  indicate  a  sound  con^^titu- 
tion  ?  " 

"The  rib-and-batten,  and  the  paper  boats  are  quite 
as  smooth  outside."  the  Commodore  admitted,  "  but, 
they  all  have  internal  projections  which  are  sometimes 
inconvenient,  as  for  instance  when  you  wish  to  sleep  on 
board,  or  when  you  are  trying  to  sponge  out  sand  and  so 
forth." 

The  Purser  and  the  Vice  closed  the  dispute  by  prov- 
ing that  their  lap-streak  cedar  boats  when  empty  were 

somewhat  lighter  than  fh^  r.fi-.^rc  -.^a  4.u^  r^ , 

and  Cook  were  fain 


lisht 


n 


be  content  with  asserting  that  if 
ess  were  the  only  object.  Red-Lakers  could  be  built 


lighter  than  Chrysalids  by  using  thinner  stuff. 


l(t 


VII. 


GARRISON    LIFE. 


V;' 


■1  u 


THE  Vice  and  the  Purser,  having  boats  of  the 
Chrysalid  model,  were  so  long  in  stowing  their  car- 
goes that  the  Commodore  and  the  Cook  started  in  ad- 
vance of  the  remainder  of  the  squadron  and  made  a 
brisk  run  to  a  British  fort,  the  outline  of  whose  parapet 
was  discernible  to  a  military  eye,  on  an  island  some 
miles  distant.  When  built  during  the  last  war,  this  work 
was  far  beyond  the  range  of  Yankee  guns,  but  now  the 
two  forts  might  exchange  cards  with  some  chance  of 
doing  execution,  albeit  they  are  out  of  sight  of  one 
another. 

Doubting  what  reception  they  might  meet  at  the 
hands  of  a  British  garrison,  the  voyagers  resolved  them- 
selves into  two  divisions,  one  of  which  approached  the 
water-gate,  while  the  other  ran  behind  a  stockade  which 
flanked  the  work.  No  sentries  being  visible  upon  the 
parapet,  the  two  officers  disembarked  and  having  learned 
in  former  days  never  incautiously  to  approach  an  earth- 
work, they  advanced  up  the  glacis  and  along  the  coun- 
terscarp with  due  circumspection.  Suddenly  the  Cook 
paused,  seized  his  companion's  arm ;  struck  a  dramatic 
attitude  and  exclaimed, 


-"^'■v^ 

^^^>^ 


■,  '  /' 


i«&s 


112 


CAXOKINf]    IX    KANUCKIA. 


"  Behold  the  garrison  !  " 

The  couple,  who  had  walked  as  they  conversed,  had 
reached  one  of  the  bastions,  and  as  the  Cook  spoke,  the  two 
men  beheld,  between  the  gabion-lined  walls  of  an  embra- 
sure, three  children  with  uncovered  heads  and  saucer- 
like  eyes. 

"  '  Grim-visaged  war  hath  smoothed  his  wrinkled 
front,'  "  said  the  Cook. 

" '  And  thus  be  it  ever,'  "  quoted  the  Commodore. 

Bv  this  time  the  Purser  and  the  Vice  had  made  the 
island,  and  joined  the  first  arrivals,  who  carefully  and 
with  professional  pride  inspected  the  outward  defences 
of  the  fort,  using  technical  military  terms  with  a  fluency 
which  humbled  their  civilian  companions  into  compara- 
tive silence.  At  length  the  Vice,  noticing  the  rotting 
stockade,  the  weedy  ditch,  and  other  signs  of  inattention, 
ventured  to  let  the  eagle  scream  a  note  or  two. 

*'  Just  like  everything  else,  that  is  subject  to  the  de- 
caying influence  of  monarchical  institutions,"  said  he. 
'*  How  quickly  a  handful  of  our  brave  fellows  would  take 
possession  of  it  !  " 

"  Perhaps,"  admitted  the  Commodore,  "  but  I'd  prefer 
to  risk  my  chances  from  the  inside." 

The  Purser  immediately  patted  the  Commodore  on 
the  back,  while  the  Vice  opened  his  eyes  and  demanded 
an  explanation. 

"  Some  forts,"  remarked  the  Commodore,  "  are  like 
singed  cats ;  they  fight  better  than  they  look.     This  fort 


1 


I  III 


'J 


TUL   UklTiSII   GAKKISON. 


113 


is  in  better  condition  now,  than  lialf  the  forts  were  that 
have  become  iiistoric." 

"  Hut  in  case  of  sudden  war,"  said  the  Vice,  "  there's 
nothini,^  al  hand  to  repair  a  broken-down  fort  with,  is 
there?" 

"  Ves  ;  livi  g  men  ;  they  make  and  unmake  forts,"  said 
the  Commodore  brusquely. 

*'  It's  the  same  way  with  conventions  and  caucuses," 
remarked  the  Vice,  regaining  his  self-respect  as  he  im- 
agined himself  once  more  the  Commodore's  equal. 

"  You've  been  a  soldier,"  said  the  Purser  to  the  Cook. 
"  And  I  am  longing  to  see  once  more  the  uniform  of  my  na- 
tive country.     Tell  me  how  to  gain  admission  to  the  fort." 

The  Cook  replied, 

"  Go  around  to  the  sally  port,  which  you  will  be  sure 
to  find  opening  away  from  the  neighboring  republic,  and 
fire  your  pistol.  The  guard  will  hurrv  out  and  make  vou 
its  prisoner  ;  then  the  Commodore  and  I  will  come  around 
and  intercede  for  you,  on  the  ground  of  your  ignorance." 

The  Purser  looked  disdainful ;  ''  And  think  you,"  said 
he,  "  that  Britain's  laws  are  so  fitful  as  to  waver  under  the 
persuasions  of  a  brace  of  Yankees  ?  " 

*'  When  Yankees  can't  persuade  Britishers,"  remarked 
the  Vice,  "  they  usually  proceed  to"— 

"Pack  a  High  Court  of  Arbitration,"  interrupted  the 
Purser. 

The  quartette  straggled  through  the  tall  weeds,  which 
prevented  farther  chaff,  and  reached  the  sally  port.     The 


I  ' 


it 


M^ 


1 1 


W. 


ri  ' 

hi 


n 


i 


114 


CANOEING   IN   KANUCKIA. 


heavy  gates  hung  aloft,  their  duty  being  discharged  by 
deputy  in  the  shape  of  long  rails  resting  edgewise  in 
two  posts,  and  with  '*  No  Admittance  "  painted  upon  a 


^1  ^%:;^    " 


The  British  Garrison. 

board.  The  garrison,  moving  on  interior  lines,  gradu- 
ally massed  itself  behind  the  board,  its  forefingers 
taking  wary  positions  within  its  respective  mouths.  Be- 
hind, and  in  the  centre  of  the  terreplain,  towered  an 
enormous  haystavTk.  *'  Behold,"  said  the  Purser,  *'  the 
ingenuity  with  which  the  garrison  has  placed  the  hay- 
stack just  where  riflemen  can  take  shelter  behind  it,  and 
command  the  entrance  to  the  fort,  picking  off  infatuated 
Yankees  who  venture  upon  the  drawbridge." 

"  True,"  retorted  the  Cook,  "the  idea  is  not  unlike 
that  of  General  Jackson,  who  used  cotton-bales  at  New 
Orleans,  but  I  believe  it  was  not  Yankees,  who  were  picked 
off."     The  contrast  between  the  ideal  and  the  real  was  so 


I 


THE   SALLY    PORT. 


115 


absorbing,  as  the  four  stood  at  the  bridge-head,  that  some 
time  elapsed  before  they  rcahzed  that  clouds  had  gath- 
ered heavily,  and  begun  to  drop  their  contents. 

"  My  main  hatch  is  open  !  "  shrieked  the  Vice,  as  h<' 
liurried  off  to  his  canoe. 

"  My   tobacco — and    it's  a  rare    Brazilian    article — is 


The  Sally  Port. 

lying  in  the  bottom  of  my  boat !  "  shouted  the  Cook,  as 
he  followed  the  Vice. 

"  The  Vice  and  the  Cook  will  tow  up  the  other  boats," 
ordered  the  Commodore,  "  while  the  Purser  and  1  con- 
struct temporary  shelter." 

Several  hundred  yards  from  the  fort  was  a  group  of 
trees  and  a  board  pile,  and  to  this  the  commanding  offi- 


[11 


f*'' 


f 


Ii6 


CANOEING   IN    KANUCKIA. 


cer  and  the  Purser  hastened.  The  trees  seemed  to  have 
been  a  favorite  resort  of  cattle,  and  the  contents  of  the 
board  pile  were  rotten,  but  it  was  not  a  time  to  be  par- 
ticular, so  a  beam  was  stretched  between  the  limbs  of  two 
trees,  and  boards  slanted  against  it  to  shed  the  rain. 
Fortunately  a  platform  of  boards  happened  to  be  just 
where  the  extempore  shed  would  cover  it.  When  the  Vice 
and  the  Cook  returned,  the  latter  considerately  bringing 
dinner  material  with  him,  it  was  discovered  to  be  noon-day, 
so  the  party  did  justice  to  bread  and  butter,  cold  tongue, 
and  a  can  of  apricots.     Suddenly  the  Vice  remarked, 

•*  I  suppose  these  boards  beneath  our  feet  are  the 
floor  of  some  late  military  structure.  I  can't  help  notic- 
ing how  perfectly  they  are  combined  for  drainage,  sag- 
ging, as  they  do,  at  the  centre." 

The  Commodore  had  not  before  noticed  the  peculiar- 
ity alluded  to,  but  now  his  mathematical  eye  saw  that 
the  depression  in  the  boards  was  lower  than  the  surface  of 
the  surrounding  ground.  Extracting  a  trolling  line  from 
the  Vice's  pocket,  he  lowered  a  sinker  cautiously  in  a 
crack  between  two  boards,  unrolled  considerable  line, 
withdrew  it,  and  remarked, 

*'  I  have  the  pleasure  of  informing  the  squadron  that 
during  military  occupation  of  the  fort,  the  inmates  of  the 
hospital,  the  ruins  of  which  we  behold  in  front  of  us,  had 
an  abundant  supply  of  cool  water  from  a  very  deep  well, 
which  well  is  at  the  present  moment  directly  under  us, 
while  the  boards  which  cover  it  are  slowly  breaking." 


.  iHf  ■ 


A    TKMPOKAUV    SIIKLTKR. 


117 


Every  one  sprang  to  his  feet.  While  at  his  home  oc- 
cupation of  statesmanship,  the  Vice  never  beheld  disas- 
ter impending  over  his  own  party  without  speedily  tr;ivcrs- 
ing  the  whole  distance  between  liis  own  party  and  the 
opposition,  so  on  this  particular  occasion,  his  instincts  im- 
pelled him  to  dash  through  rain,  mud,  and  thistles  toward 
the  ruins  of  the  hospital,  whose  wall  offered  the  most  dis- 
tinct shelter  within  view.     The  Vice  wore   a  helmet,  his 


The  Vampire  Bat. 

long  whiskers  fluttered  behind  him  on  the  breeze,  his 
shoulders  and  body  were  covered  by  a  black  rubber  blan- 
ket, his  trowsers  were  rolled  high  above  his  stockingless 
calves,  and  he  wore  a  huge  pair  of  carpet  slippers,  which 
were  nearly  as  wide  as  they  were  long.  His  figure  and 
attitudes,  as  he  ran,  were  so  full  of  suggestion  that  the 
artist  preserved  them  in  a  series  of  sketches,  severally  en- 
titled. 

"The  Flight  of  Cain." 

•*  Scotch  Laird  enjoying  His  Favorite  Weather." 


\l 


r 


III 


p! 

.1'  •' 

n 


t=i 


ilv 


) 


n 


I  I 


ii8 


CANOEING   IN   KANUCKIA. 


•*  Studv  of  the  Bottom  of  a  Bear's  Foot" 

"  Rip  Van  Winkle  chased  by  Dogs." 

"  Mephistophilcs  Triumphant." 

"  Election  Returns  from  a  Rural  District." 

*'  The  great  Vampire  Bat." 

The  absence  of  the  Vice  left  his  late  companions  in 
possession  of  additional  elbow  room,  but  on  a  rainy  day 
there  are  blessings  more  to  be  desired  than  elbow  room. 
Among  these  is  a  pipe  of  tobacco,  and  four  walls  between 
which  to  smoke  it.  The  Cook's  precious  Brazilian  tobacco 
was  wet,  the  Commodore  and  the  Purser  had  left  their 
pouches  in  their  boats,  but  er.ch  man  had  a  pipe  in  his 
pocket,  and  it  was  known  that  the  Vice  had  in  his  pos- 
session a  bag  of  delicious  weed.  So  dispatches  were  sent 
him  during  a  slight  lull  in  the  storm,  and  the  Commodore 
and  Purser  made  a  reconnoissance  in  the  direction  of  the 
fort.  The  garrison  being  invisible,  the  storming  party 
dashed  over  the  bridge  and  beneath  the  temporary  port- 
cullis, putting  to  flight  a  large  body  of  chickens  who  were 
carelessly  resting  upon  their  arms  in  the  guard-room. 
These  alarmed  the  commander  of  the  fort,  who  at  once 
emerged  from  headquarters,  with  an  axe  upon  his 
shoulder,  and  himself  in  dishabille. 

The  Commodore  saluted  the  commandant,  and  asked, 
with  due  formality,  the  courtesy  of  shelter  for  himself  and 
companions,  and  for  permission  to  walk  about  the  fort 
when  the  rain  should  cease. 

"  Is  it  wantin'  to  be  out  av  the  wet  ye  are  ?  "  asked 


TAKEN   BY   STORM. 


119 


the  commandant;  "come  straight  into  the  kitchen  an 
dhry  yerselves." 

"  There  are  two  more  of  us,  yet  to  come,"  explained 
the  Commodore. 

"  Ah,  niver  ye  fear,"  quoth  the  old  man  ;  "  isn't  the 
kitchen  in  the  casemate  that  held  the  biggest  gun,  in 
the  good  ould  times,  an'  hasn't  a  whole  company  av  the 
Rifles  been  in  there  to  wanst  many's  the  time." 

The  casemate  proved  of  generous  size,  as  was  also  the 


The  Commandant. 

cooking-stove  that  stood  in  the  midst  of  it.  The  com- 
mandant's wife  and  children  made  haste  to  place  chairs, 
while  one  child  was  detailed  to  bring  in  the  Vice  and  the 
Cook  at  the  double-quick.  Soon  the  quartette  sat  about 
the  refilled  stove,  and  though  the  month  was  July,  no 
one  thought  to  push  back  his  chair.  Gradually  there 
stole  over  the  party  that  delicious  drowsiness  which  is 
peculiar  to  a  man  who  has  been  acting  as  clothes-horse 
to  a  wet  suit — a  drowsiness 


I    : 


II 


it  * 


n 
n 
u 


1 

1; 


P'l 

i 

\\ 


fr 


li 


'      1.1 


w 


i 


HI 


i  1 

i    ' 

11  ] 

1 

LL_^; 

120  CANOEING   IN   KANUCKIA. 

"  That  resembles  slumber  only 
As  the  mist  resembles  rain  " — 

a  drowsiness  which  demands  not  sleep,  but  smoke.  In 
short,  each  member  of  the  expedition  was  dying  for  a 
pipe,  but  he  would  have  prolonged  his  sensation  of  disso- 
lution to  its  logical  end  rather  than  have  got  out  of 
his  chair  on  the  one  hand,  or,  on  the  other,  have  ven- 
tured to  smoke  in  an  apartment  which  was  apparently 
the  host's  parlor  as  well  as  his  kitchen.  But  the  Vice, 
the  Statesman,  the  moulder  of  men,  came  at  the  critical 
instant  to  the  rescue  of  his  companions  and  to  that  of 

"  A  nearer  one 
Still,  and  adearer  one  " — 

himself. 

"  You  must  find  it  quite  lonesome  here  at  times,"  he 
remarked  to  the  commandant  of  the  fort. 

"  Thrue  for  yez,  an'  I  do,"  responded  her  Majesty's 
representative. 

"  Still,"  continued  the  Vice,  "  I  suppose  you  can  once 
in  a  while  take  some  comfort  out  of  a  drop  and  a  smoke  ?  " 

The  commandant  of  the  fort  winked  profoundly.  The 
Vice  passed  his  half  pint  flask  stealthily  to  the  custodian 
of  Britain's  honor,  and  the  old  man,  first  prudently  send- 
ing his  wife  out  of  the  casemate  for  something,  drained 
the  flask  with  che  greatest  courtesy  and  enthusiasm. 
Then  the  Vice  remarked, 

"  I  suppose  you  get  very  good  smoking  tobacco  in 
Canada,  as  there  is  no  duty  on  it,  but  permit  me  to  leave 
you  a  fine  pouch  of  it,  as  a  slight  remembrance  of  your 
courtesy  to  us." 


DIPLOMACY. 


121 


The  commandant  accepted  the  token  of  esteem,  and 
smiled  his  thanks  from  every  line  of  his  wrinkled  visare 
Then  he  opened  the  pouch,  and  advanced  his  ancient 
nose,  first  cautiously,  then  criticali}^  and  finally  with 
a  sniff  of  decided  approbation. 


The  Commandant's  Lady. 

"  Try  it  at  once,"  said  the  Vice,  with  ill-dissembled 
eagerness.  "  Don't  hesitate  on  our  account— we  are  old 
smokers." 

The  commandant  acted  at  once  upon  the  suggestion, 
first  courteously  passing  the  bag  to  his  guests.  Within 
three  minutes  these  traditional  enemies  were  smoking 
the  pipe  of  peace  together,  nor  was  lovely  woman  missing 
from  the  circle,  for  the  commandant's  lady  filled  and  lit, 
not  exactly  a  yard,  but  a  "  lady-finger  "  of  clay  herself, 
and  puffed  thereat  with  great  satisfaction. 

The  rain   ended,  the  party   went  out  to  look  at  the 

fort,   and    discovered   that   what   from    the  outside  had 
0 


pi' 
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H  I 


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H 


Ti! 


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1 


! 


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.11 

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i 


11 
I 


122 


CANOEING   IN   KANUCKIA. 


appeared  a  mere  earthwork  was  really  a  very  carefully 
built  fort,  with  stone  quarters,  galleries,  casemates  and 
revetments,  and  easy  of  defence  to  a  mere  handful  of 
men. 

Just  as  the  party  was  bidding  adieu  to  their  kind 
entertainers,  there  occurred  an  accident  which  displayed 
to  an  unexpected  degree  the  esprit  de  corps  of  the  expe- 
dition. The  commandant  had  offered  the  Commodore 
some  milk  for  the  expedition,  if  some  one  would  wait  an 
hour  for  it — the  cows  were  quite  a  way  off,  he  said.  To 
wait  inside  a  grim  fort  while  the  sun  shone  brightly  out- 
side, and  four  canoes  needing  inspection  on  account  of 
damages  by  rain,  was  a  duty  to  chill  the  ardent  soul. 
Just  then,  however,  when  the  Commodore  was  wonder- 
ing if  he  could  safely  forget  his  own  morning  detail  of 
himself  as  fleet  milkman,  and  assign  this  duty  to  some 
one  else,  the  commandant's  older  daughter,  heretofore 
invisible,  and  of  about  eighteen  or  twenty  summers, 
appeared  from  an  adjoining  room. 

"  77/ stay,  Commodore,"  shouted  three  manly  voices 
in  unison.  The  Commodore  was  so  affected  bv  this 
devotion  to  the  interests  of  the  fleet  that  he  felt  shamed 
into  a  determination  to  remain  true  to  his  self-appointed 
duty,  but  when  he  beheld  the  Purser's  pleading  eyes, 
more  eloquent  than  any  words  could  be,  human  sympathy 
overcame  soulless  discipline  in  the  Commodore's  rugged 
breast,  and  the  brotherhood  of  man  asserted  itself. 

The  wind  and  the  shower  died  together,  and  as  each 


-♦^ 


GLADSTONE  S   POLICY. 


12' 


captain  of  a  vessel  had  some  special  reason  to  wish  him- 
self farther  on  his  journey,  it  was  agreed  that  the  squadron 
should  proceed  under  paddles,  and  camp  for  the  night  at 
a  point  which  the  Vice  knew  all  about,  having  camped 
there  during  a  previous  cruise  with  the  Alderman.  This 
plan  was  accepted  with  expressions  of  the  liveliest  satis- 
faction. 

As  the  Purser  rejoined  the  command  with  his  milk 
pail,  the  three  Americans  were  seriously  conversing  about 
garrison  life,  as  it  exists  in  the  British  service. 

"  I  have  often  read,"  the  Vice  was  saying,  "  of  the 
exalted  social  tone  which  pervades  the  British  army,  and 
I  confess  that  I  am  glad  to  have  been  admitted  even  for 
so  short  a  time  into  society  so  select." 

"  I  have  always  understood,"  said  the  Commodore, 
*'  that  the  commandant  of  an  English  military  post  is 
sure  to  be  a  gentleman  of  high  social  position  at  home." 
The  Cook  remarked  that  "  it  was  pleasant  to  have  the 
notions  of  the  simple  and  unaffected  manners  of  the  Eng- 
lish aristocracy,  as  derived  from  contemporaneous  litera- 
ture, so  pleasantly  confirmed  by  an  actual  experience." 

"  But   you    know  that   there  isn't  any —  "  put   in  the 
Purser. 

The  Cook  went  on  serenely  with   his  remarks,  in  the 
same  vein  and  was   so  ably  seconded   by  his   fellow   citi- 
zens, that  the  Purser  finally  embarked  and  paddled  away, 
stopping  a  few  yards  from  shore  to  shout  defiantly  back, 
*'  It  was  all  Gladstone's  doings,  you  know.     But  for 


124 


CANOEING   IN   KANUCKTA. 


i  i 


;,  i  V    -^ 


him  there  would  have  been  a  regular  garrison  there, 
and  may  be  you  wouldn't  have  been  so  cordially 
received." 

To  be  out  of  doors  and  at  liberty  for  ten  days  is,  to 
men  without  physical  vices,  wonderfully  exhilarating,  and 
enforced  confinement  by  a  few  hours  of  rain  only  inten- 
sifies physical  spirit  and  alertness.  Every  nerve  and 
muscle  seems  to  demand  something  to  do,  a  mountain  to 
climb,  an  untamed  horse  to  ride,  a  locomotive  to  drive,  a 
regiment  to  lead  into  a  battle,  or — as  was  the  case  with 
the  Vice  on  this  particular  afternoon — a  good,  close, 
vicious  political  canvass  to  dash  into.  To  gratify  and 
utilize  this  sensation,  there  is  no  sport  superior  or  equal 
to  that  of  paddling  a  canoe.  Rowing  may  lessen  the 
physical  disquiet,  but  while  the  canoeist  sits  upright 
in  his  boat,  voluntarily  working  only  with  his  arms, 
and  learning  of  unsupposed  physical  availability  and 
grace  with  every  motion,  the  oarsman  sways  to  and 
fro  like  the  deserted  half  of  a  melancholy  hinge,  which 
wavers  helplessly  about  in  air,  always  longing  for  some- 
thing to  attach  itself  to,  but  never  finding  it.  Be- 
sides, the  paddler  faces  his  water  and  his  goal,  instead 
of  fixing  his  eyes  unceasingly  upon  the  fleeting  past. 
The  oarsman's  duties  are  confined  to  steady  pulling, 
while  with  every  stroke  of  his  paddle,  the  canoeist  pulls 
and  pushes  also,  discharging  these  duties  with  alternate 
arms  as  he  works  upon  the  opposite  sides  of  his  boat. 
The  exercise  is  not  passive,  like  that  which  one  takes  on 


THE   MODERN   CANOE  PADDLE. 


125 


horseback,  nor  does  it  partake  of  that  mental  strain 
which  a  man  experiences  when  he  takes  the  hehn  of  his 
own  yacht.  It  is  superior,  by  far,  in  physical  benefit,  to 
that  most  exhilarating  experience  that  comes  of  driving 
a  canoe  under  full  sail  and  before  a  brisk  breeze.  And 
if,  after  an  hour's  work  at  the  beginning  of  a  cruise, 
the  canoeist  finds  himself  the  owner  of  two  handfuls  of 
blisters  which  nobody  cares  to  borrow,  he  finds  himself 
at  its  end  in  possession  of  a  fund  of  strength,  spirits, 
and  clearness  of  head  and  heart  that  are  far  too  pre- 
cious to  lend,  although  they  may  have  been  bought  very 
cheaply. 

The  paddles  used  by  the  modern  canoeist  are  like 
that  represented  on  the  cover  of  this  book.  They  are 
very  light,  being  made  usually  of  spruce,  an  inch  and  a 
half  in  diameter  at  the  largest  part  of  the  shaft.  For  a 
wide  canoe  a  nine  foot  paddle  is  desirable,  but  for  nar- 
rower craft  one  seven  and  a  half  feet  or  even  seven  feet 
long  is  sufficient.  A  common  ferule  joint  in  the  middle 
facilitates  close  packing.  Two  joints  dividing  the  paddle 
in  three  parts,  do  not  work  well  in  practice.  Rubber 
rings,  or  the  two  halves  of  a  three  inch  rubber  ball  cut 
to  slip  over  the  shafts  prevent  the  water  from  dripping 
inboard. 

The  squadron  had  sailed  thus  far  without  beholding 
any  of  the  picturesque  which  is  peculiarly  French,  but 
now  it  hoped  that  at  landing,  the  essence  of  Acadia 
would  be  visible.     It  seemed  for  a  few  moments  as  if  this 


126 


CANOEING   IN   KANUCKIA. 


I    «'i 


I  I 


,   I 


hope  was  about  to  be  realized,  for  as  the  boats  approached 
their  prospective  landing,  two  quaintly  dressed  boys  stood 
observantly  and  quietly  upon  the  bank,  instead  of  danc- 
ing and  hooting  like  savages,  or  casting  stones  and  ob- 
jurgations at  the  squadron,  as  almost  any  brace  of  bo\'s 
in  the  United  States  would  have  done  under  similar 
circumstances. 

"  Note  the  respectful  ways  engendered  by  monarchical 
institutions,"  observed  the  Commodore. 

"  Rather  the  absence  of  the  spirit  which  the  heavy 
hand  of  despotism  has  crushed  out,"  replied  the  Vice. 

As  the  boats  were  beached,  the  boys  timidly  ap- 
proached them.  The  Vice,  forgetting  his  first  encounter 
of  the  picturesque,  accosted  them  in  French,  and  was 
somewhat  confused  by  their  replies  until  he  learned  that 
the  youths  were  of  English  parentage,  and  that  they 
lisped. 

The  boys  were  soon  reinforced  by  their  father,  a 
tall,  modest,  but  self-reliant  looking  man,  who  eyed  the 
camping  preparations  of  the  party  with  an  interest  which 
was  greater  than  curiosity,  and  which  was  explained 
afterward  by  the  discovery  that  he  had  been  of  the  Argo- 
nauts of  '49. 

The  Vice,  in  his  capacity  of  Statesman,  knew  the 
honest  farmer  as  a  type,  only  as  the  principal  element  of 
mass-meetings  which  he  sometimes  addressed  ;  the  Com- 
modore, when  in  his  editorial  chair,  knew  him  principally 
as  a  subscriber  to  be  secured  :  the  Cook,  when   playing 


THE   commodore's  CHOICE. 


127 


scribbler,  found  the  farmer-type  useful  to  contrast  with 
other  types,  and  the  Purser,  when  in  ills  studio,  knew 
him  only  as  an  occasional  adjunct  to  a  pastoral  compo- 
sition. 

But  after  the  self-contained,  hard-working,  ratftier 
lonely  and  diffident  farmer  had  lounged  about  the  camp 
for  a  couple  of  hours  that  evening,  the  party  learned,  as 
the  city-bred  man  needs  sorely  to  learn  about  many 
another  farmer,  that  the  old  man  could  see  something  in 
a  sunset  besides  tints  reducible  into  pigments,  more  in  a 
book  than  its  writer's  art,  that  he  knew  more  of  the  essen- 
tials of  politics  than  the  editor  and  statesman  combined, 
and  stranger  still,  that  he  cared  neither  to  edit  a  news- 
paper nor  to  run  for  office. 

After  a  good  supper  and  a  cheerful  pipe  or  two,  the 
Commodore,  who  had  been  extremely  quiet  for  a  few 
moments,  announced  that  he  considered  it  the  proper 
thing  for  canoeists  to  sleep  in  their  boats  instead  of 
tents. 

"Then,"  said  the  Commodore,  "if  the  river  rises 
suddenly,  you  will  be  in  your  boat,  instead  of  having  it 
drift  awav  from  vou." 

"  And  if  you  turn  over  in  bed,  in  such  case,"  remarked 
the  Vice,  "you'll  never  know  what  drowned  you." 

The  Commodore  did  not  reply,  for  the  real  object  of 
suggestion  vas  to  emphasize  one  point  of  superiority  of 
the  Red  Lake  model,  after  which  his  own  boat  and  the 
Cook's  were  built,  over  the  Chrysalid  model  affected  by 


ii  i 
I  1 


[i  I 


I    t 


128 


CANOEING   IN   KANUCKIA. 


the  other  two  mariners.  But  the  Commodore's  will  was 
law,  and  that  night  the  four  men  slept  each  in  his  own 
canoe,  a  rubber  blanket  thrown  across  a  line  extending 
from  mast  to  mast  affording  protection  from  dew  and 
possible  rain. 


.1 1 


;  I- 


VIII. 


THE   REGINNING   OF   ACADIA. 

ON  the  morning  of  this  day,  two  canoeists  arose 
from  their  nautical  couches  with  that  satisfied 
air  which  betokens  a  night  of  peaceful  rest,  but  the 
Vice  and  the  Purser  arose  only  after  many  a  premonitory 
groan,  and  even  then  they  strongly  resembled  a  couple 
of  rough  logs  from  which  a  single  slab  had  been  sawn, 
so  flattened  was  one  side  of  each.  The  Commodore  eyed 
them  with  manifest  satisfaction,  called  the  attention  of 
each  of  them  to  the  appearance  of  the  other,  and  ex- 
claimed, 

"  Observe  the  effect  of  sleeping  in  a  canoe  with  ribs 
and  a  bottom  board  !  I  was  curious  to  see  how  the  ex- 
periment would  result." 

"  I  wish,  then,"  grunted  the  Vice,  as  by  vicious 
pinches  he  sought  to  restore  animation  in  his  flattened 
side,  "  I  wish — ow — that  your  devotion  to  science  had 
prompted  you  to  try  the  experiment  upon  yourself,  and 
borrowed  my  canoe  to  do  it  in." 

*•  Thanks,  thanks,"  rejoined  the  Commodore,  brisklv, 
"  but  I  had  an  experiment  of  the  same  sort  to  try  in  my 
own  boat,  which  has  a  smooth  concave  bottom.     I  beo- 
6* 


WW 


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It  'r 

H  i 

M  hi 

'I"  !•• 

If!  !': 

ill  !■■ 
11 


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I  : 


,\ ' 


130 


CANOEING    IN    KANUCKIA. 


you  will  observe  how  my  outlines  preserve  ihcir  habitual 
shapeliness." 

The  flat-sided  sufferers  retired  for  a  bath,  and  speed- 
ily forgot  their  sorrows.  If  the  morning  bath  in  a  city 
bath-tub  is  a  washer-away  ot  fragments  of  slumber,  and 
a  merry  awakener,  how  much  more  delightful  is  the  same 
exercise  in  an  ever-replenishing  body  of  water  half  a 
mile  wide  and  hundreds  of  miles  long,  enclosed  only  by 
blue  sky,  green  trees  and  brown  earth,  with  no  close  din- 
ing-room and  conventional  breakfast  to  be  descended  to, 
no  morning  paper  to  be  read,  no  vile  horse-car  to  go  to 
business  on,  nor  any  hard  pavement  to  tramp  over,  and 
no  brother  man  to  find  fault  with,  except  in  that  cheer- 
ful banter  which  always  comes  back  to  bless  the  giver. 
Thus  thought  the  Cook  as  he  stood  waist  deep  in  the 
clear  water,  and  thus  he  might  have  continued  to  think 
for  a  long  time  had  his  foot  not  impinged  upon  the 
riparian  rights  of  an  honest  mussel  with  slightly  parted 
shells. 

The  Commodore  had  already  been  out  for  provisions, 
and  returned  rejoicing. 

"  Another  proof  of  the  superiority  of  monarchical  in- 
stitutions," said  he.  "  Instead  of  the  prices  we  have 
been  accustomed  to  heretofore,  I  pay  twelve  cents  a-piece 
for  chickens,  ten  cents  per  pound  for  butter,  and  three 
cents  per  dozen  for  eggs." 

"  And  you  are  pleased  to  regard  this  cheapness  as  a 
virtue  ?  "  asked  the  Vice.     "  Is  no  one  but  the   buyer 


SLINGING   THE   IIEALTIIV. 


131 


to  be  considered?"  How  do  you  suppose  people  live 
who  sell  the  products  of  their  industry  at  such  starvation 
fieures?  But  monarchists  and  imperialists  have  but  a 
single  idea — to  crush  the  poor." 

The  Commodore  shrunk  an  inch  or  two  in  lengll.  nnd 
breadth,  but  soon  recovered  himself,  donned  a  vicious 
smile,  and  announced  with  assumed  cheerfulness  that  the 
time  had  come  to  "  sling  the  healthy,"  whereby  monarch- 
ists,  imperialists  and  republicans  would  suffer  alike. 

•*  What's  that  ?  *'  asked  the  Cook. 

The  Commodore  grinned  sardonicallv.  **  He  wants 
to  know  whatjslinginj;  the  healthy, is,"  said  he.  "  Well, 
he'll  know  before  dinner.  It  means  paddling — paddling 
in  earnest,  young  man — paddling  a  ten  or  fifteen  mile 
stretch,  instead  of  a  leisurely  half  mile." 

There  seemed  no  alternative,  for  the  river  was  as 
smooth  as  glass.  The  sun  noted  the  mirror-like  surface 
of  the  water,  and  his  natural  vatiity  caused  him  to  rub  up 
his  face  until  its  brightness  could  not  be  increased.  Just 
by  way  of  refreshing  the  pleasurable  sensation  of  behold- 
ing his  face  in  the  water,  he  dropped  his  gaze  quite  fre- 
quently upon  the  blue-shirted  backs  of  the  canoeists, 
until  each  man  imagined  ihat  he  must  have  caught  some 
sparks  from  the  camp-fire.  Then  it  seemed  as  if  there 
must  be  rain  falling  from  the  cloudless  sky,  for  the  Cook 
felt  water-drops  coursing  steadily  down  his  back.  The 
Purser  was  sure  his  boat  must  be  leaking,  for  water  was 
gradually  soaking  the  small  canvas  cushion  on  which  he 


II 


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11 


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1 


132 


CANOEING    IN   KANUCKIA. 


sat  in  the  bottom  of  his  canoe.  The  Vice's  slippers  grew 
clammily  moist,  and  the  Commodore's  eyes  filled  with 
water  which  was  not  an  accumulation  of  remorseful  tears. 
But  no  man  would  debase  himself  so  far  as  to  be  the  first 
to  crv  for  mercv. 

But  the  Vice,  the  Statesman,  was  true  to  his  profes- 
sion. To  have  suggested  a  rest  would  have  been  merely 
a  straight-forward  act  which  even  an  idiot  might  have 
performed.  The  Vice  preferred  to  gain  his  point  by  an 
exercise  of  intellect.  Haifa  mile  down  the  stream  was  a 
small  pier  ;  to  this  the  Vice  called  the  panting  Commo- 
dore's attention,  and  exclaimed, 

"That,  by  gosh,*  is  the  identical  dock  where  the 
Alderman  and  I  went  swimming.  I  assume  that  all  such 
important  precedents  are  to  be  respectfully  observed  ?  " 

"They  an^"  said  thj  Commodore,  almost  fainting 
with  the  ecstasy  of  the  transition  from  despair  to  hope. 

Within  ten  minutes  the  boats  were  beached,  and  four 
perspiring  canoeists,  after  an  interval  of  rest,  made  haste 
to  disrobe  and  take  headers  from  the  pier  into  the  re- 
freshing water. 

From  this  pier  the  Commodore  called  the  attention  of 
his  companions  to  a  glittering  spire  which  shot  heaven- 
ward a  mile  down  the  river,  and  exclaimed, 

"  There  begins  Acadia.  Every  spire  we  see  hereafter  will 
be  of  that  precise  pattern — they  are  as  unchanging  as  the 
beautiful  faith  which  our  sister  Church  of  Rome  maintains." 

*  The  Vice  was  from  an  eastern  rural  distiict. 


will 
the 


134 


CANOEING   IN   KANUCKIA. 


I 


i'Ai^    ^ 


w 


w 


"Have  we  a  Ritualist  among  us?"  whispered  the 
Vice  to  the  Cook,  with  a  face  full  of  horror. 

"  Ye — es,"  replied  the  Cook,  reluctantly,  "  but  don't 
think  too  hardly  of  the  poor  fellow.  Editors  must  have 
some  sort  of  religious  belief,  you  know — they're  human, 
like  the  rest  of  us — and  how  can  they  reconcile  their 
practice  to  any  thing  but  a  religion  of  mere  forms  ?  What 
would  religion  be,  if  it  did  not  provide  for  every  man's 
own  peculiar  infirmities?" 

The  Vice  eyed  the  Commodore  with  abating  horror, 
nevertheless  he  began  to  talk  Baptist  doctrine  to  him. 
He  even,  to  arouse  his  faculties  to  the  utmost,  strode  up 
and  down  the  shore  warbling  to  himself  (so  the  Purser 
declared)  something  like  this  : 

"  Baptist,  Baptist  is  my  style, 
Baptist  l)orn  was  I. 
I've  been  baptized  in  the  Baptist  way 
And  Baptist  will  I  die." 

But  the  Commodore  was  obdurate,  and  intimated  that 
the  Vice's  experience  in  upsetting  from  a  canoe  had  some- 
thing to  do  with  his  denominational  preference  ;  things  had 
to  go  according  to  law  in  newspaper  offices,  he  said  ;  the 
newspaper  was  the  highest  embodiment  of  human  intel- 
lect, and  so  he  reasoned,  analogically,  that  men  had  no 
higher  model  to  which  to  conform  religion.  The  Vice 
sighed  and  determined  to  convert  the  Commodore — at  a 
more  convenient  season. 

The  cairn  and  heat  continued,  and  no  one  was  rude 


THE   purser's   hammock. 


135 


enough  to  make  susfcrestions  to  the  Commodore  about 
starting.  Indeed,  the  Purser  remembered  that  he  had 
brought  a  hammock,  which  until  now  he  had  forgotten. 
It  was  one  of  the  most  remarkable  hammocks  in  the 
world — woven  of  silk  by  an  Italian  sailor — wouldn't  the 
Commodore  just  try  it  ?  The  Commodore  accepted  the 
proffer  in  gracious  spirit  ;  then  the  Cook  remembered  that 
the  Commodore  had  never  tried  the  wonderful,  the  price- 
less Brazilian  tobacco,  and  there  could  be  no  fitter  place 
than  a  hammock  in  which  to  sample  it.  The  general  result 
was  that  the  Commodore  occupied  the  hammock  until 
the  Cook  announced  dinner,  and  even  then  he  arose  with 
noticeable  reluctance. 

After  dinner  the  breeze  sprang  up  again,  and  as  it 
wafted  clouds  of  dust  into  the  eyes,  faces  and  hair  of  the 
expedition,  as  well  as  upon  their  garments,  still  damp 
with  honest  sweat,  every  one  hailed  with  joy  the  order  to 
sail.  Besides,  the  dinner  had  been  a  mere  lunch,  and  as 
the  largest  town  on  the  river  was  but  a  few  miles  distant, 
the  Cook  suggested  that  an  excellent  dinner  might  be 
procured  there  at  a  quaint  little  French  inn  which  he  had 
visited  in  other  days.  This  suggestion  led  to  a  lively 
race,  which  as  usual  in  such  cases  was  won  by  the  Cook.* 
Whether    beating  or   beaten,  however;  the    pleasure   of 


I 


Note  by  the  Cook. — Contradictions  of  this  statement  have  been  received 
from  the  Vice  and  the  Turser,  but  they  are  couched  in  language  unfit  for 
publication.  The  proof-sheet  of  this  page  has  been  carefully  kept  from  the 
eye  of  the  Commodore. 


136 


CANOEING  IN   KANUCKIA. 


I         Hi 


«  ;i 


I  i 


spreading  all  sails  and  making  the  best  possible  time  in  a 
good  wind,  was  more  than  sufficient  reward  for  all  the 
effort  put  forth.  With  a  boat  fourteen  feet  long,  and 
weighing,  all  rigging,  spars,  personal  property,  stores,  etc., 
included,  a  scant  hundred  and  fifty  pounds,  yet  carrying 
fifty  square  feet  of  canvas,  the  canoeist  has  to  exert  to 
the  uttermost  his  clearness  of  vision,  nicety  of  touch  (at 
the  helm)  weather  wisdom,  and  balancing  ability.  He 
is  himself  his  own  ballast  and  the  principal  portion  of  the 
cargo.  The  shifting  of  five  pounds  of  weight  would  com- 
pel a  capsize,  and  the  slightest  flaw,  carelessly  caught, 
would  even  more  certainly  induce  the  same  undesirable 
result.  To  keep  all  dead  weight  as  far  as  possible  below 
the  water  line,  the  navigator  sits  in  the  bottom  of  his 
boat,  his  back  resting  against  a  small  board  which,  in  turn, 
bears  upon  the  after  thwart  or  bulk-head.  In  one  hand 
he  holds  the  sheet  of  his  mainsail ;  if  he  steers  with  a 
rudder,  he  holds  one  tiller  rope  in  the  same  hand,  and 
the  other  in  the  remaining  digits.  If  he  steers  with  a  pad- 
dle, which  is  for  several  reasons  the  preferable  mode,  he 
holds  the  paddle  with  the  hand  unoccupied  bv  the  sheet ; 
there  is  thus  a  steady  strain  upon  both  arms,  and  this 
strain  is  also  a  perfect  brace.  Some  canoeists  work  the 
tiller  with  the  feet,  and  this  when  properly  carried  out  is 
a  very  convenient  mode,  but  not  every  one  who  has  tried 
it  succeeds  in  making  it  work.  The  time  which  intervenes 
between  the  coming  of  a  flaw  and  the  full  fruition  of  a 
capsize,  is  usually  about  three  seconds,  but  one  of  these 


UNDER  SAIL. 


137 


suffices  for  prevention,  if  the  sailor  promptly  lets  go  his 
sheet  or  allows  his  boat's  head  to  <yo  into  the  wind.     In 
practice,  however,  a   flaw  seldom    strikes   a  close-hauled 
sail ;  the  pilot's  ear  detects  it  coming  several  seconds  be- 
fore it  strikes,  and  so,  before  it  appears,  the  mainsail  is  as 
innocent  of  the  possibility  of  abetting  disaster  as  if  it  were 
the  proprietor  of  a  gambling  saloon,  who  had   been  fore- 
warned by  some  sympathetic  police  captain  of  an  impend- 
ing raid,  or  a  skilful  insurance  president   who  knows  that 
the  state  inspector  is  coming.    How  the  canoeist's  ear  de- 
tects the  coming  flaw  is  the  mystery  and  despair  of  the 
novice,  though  several  hours  of  practice  make  this  wis- 
dom seem  an  acquisition  some  centuries  old.     When  the 
"  green  "  canoeist  experiences   a  flaw,  he  generally  seeks 
safety  by  letting  go  his  sheet  and  at  the  same  time  steer- 
ing *'  into  the  wind."    Safety  is  at  once  assured,  but  when 
the  boat  again  takes  the,"  course,"  the  other  boats,  if  sailed 
by  experts,  are  already  too  far  away  to  be  available  if  one 
wishes  to  borrow  an  aesthetic  idea  or  a  pipe  of  tobacco. 
The  experienced  sailor  lets  his  sheet  go  sufficiently,  but 
he  knows  to  a  breath  when  the  flaw  is  sufficiently  spent  to 
allow  him  to  *'  haul  close  "  again,  and  he  holds  his  course 
to   a   point  all  the  while,  saving  some  wind   by  throw- 
ing his  weight  well   to  windward.     If  he  has  a  satisfac- 
tory family,  but  lacks  as  much  life  insurance  as  he  desires, 
he  will  prefer  to  try  a  good  wind  over  water  not  more 
than  five  feet  deep,  (and  such  water  is  a  hundred  times 
as  plentiful  as  deeper  water)  but  the  chance  of  capsizing 


^ 


138 


CANOEING   IN   KANUCKIA. 


a  sober  canoeist  of  a  week's  practice  is  less  than  that  of 
falling  dead  in  the  street  at  home ;  it  is  as  easy  to  avoid 
as  if  it  were  the  risk  of  stepping  over  a  precipice  in  full 
view,  for  in  the  former  case  the  catastrophe  is  as  easily 
foreseen  as  in  the  latter.  And  while  the  boat  is  flvinij 
(literally,  for  her  bottom  barely  touches  the  water,  and 
she  can  sail  at  a  respectable  speed  over  tide-mud  barely 
glazed  with  water,)  its  occupant  has  every  pleasure  ex- 
perienced by  the  owner  of  a  twenty-thousand  dollar 
vacht.  He  has  the  same  fjlorious  wind  whistlinq-  in  his 
ears,  the  same  sharp  remonstrance  of  the  waters  divided 
by  the  bow,  the  same  murmurs  of  recognition  and  com- 
plaint by  the  same  waters  as  they  reunite  under  the  stern- 
post,  the  same  sense  of  triumph  over  one  element,  of 
compulsion  of  another,  which  if  it  had  its  own  way  would 
be  only  a  fitful  ally>  the  same  glorious  abandon  of  health 
and  spirits  revelling  in  pure  air  and  \\\  endeavor  uncon- 
strained by  age,  sex,  cr  previous  conditions  of  social  or 
business  servitude.  And  when  the  sail  is  over,  or  the 
season  itself  is  ended,  the  delightful  memories  of  the 
cruise  are  not,  as  in  the  case  of  the  yachtsman,  palled  by 
recollections  of  the  frightful  expense  of  the  crew,  or  the 
extortionate  charges  of  ship-builders  for  repairs.  And 
while  the  yachtsman  lays  up  his  boat  for  the  winter,  and 
bemoans  the  wasting  interest  upon  her  cost,  and  the 
various  charges  for  dockage,  keeping,  etc.,  the  canoeist 
quietly  puts  his  boat  upon  his  back,  or,  at  worst  a  cart, 
carries  it  to  his  house,  and  puts  her  down  in  the  cellar  or 


\m 


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i>  <i;     >! 


140 


CANOEING   IN   KANUCKIA. 


iti'   .t» 


'1 


«    !'i 


up  in  the  garret  (after  an  unsuccessful  attempt  to  have  her 
wintered  on  top  of  the  piiino  in  the  parlor)  in  either  of 
which  places  he  may  visit  her  as  frequently  as  he  pleases, 
in  any  weather,  and  refresh  any  memories  that  may  seem 
laggard  when  recalled. 

The  party  went  into  camp  in  the  shade  of  some  grand 
old  elms  which  stood  in  front  of  what  had  once  been  her 
Majesty's  barracks.  During  the  political  changes  which 
had  turned  the  British  spear  into  the  Canadian  pruning- 
hook,  the  barracks  had  been  diverted  from  their  original 
purpose  into  homes  for  the  friendless  poor ;  the  shore  of  the 
river  in  front  of  them  was,  therefore,  full  of  the  discarded 
crockery  and  broken  bottles  peculiar  to  a  certain  phase 
of  poverty,  and  as  the  Vice  and  the  Purser  stepped  bare- 
footed into  the  water  to  carry  their  boats  ashore,  the 
soles  of  their  feet  testified  to  the  truth  of  the  scriptural 
saying  "  The  poor  ye  have  with  you  always."  * 

As  the  expedition  landed,  weary,  foot  sore,  hungry,  un- 
shaven, and  covered  with  the  dust  of  their  last  camp,  the 
sight  of  a  busy  town,  full  of  brisk  well-to-do  people,  caused 
them  to  experience  to  the  uttermost  the  sensations  pe- 
culiar to  the  vagabond  and  the  pariah.  A  rharvelously  good 
dinner  at  a  marvelously  low  price  comforted  the  material 
part  of  their  inner  man,  but  their  mental  parts  remained 
ill  at  ease.     So  uncomfortable  were  they  that  the  party 

*  As  boats  of  the  Chrysalid  model  have  prominent  keels,  and  stem-posts 
that  are  merely  ornamental,  ihey  cannot  be  beached  by  a  gentle  tug  at  the 
painter,  such  as  is  always  sufficient  with  a  Red- Lake  boat. 


THE   ENCHANTRESS. 


141 


took  pattern  after  the  vulgar  who  wish  to  appear  as  gen- 
tlemen—  they  purchased  and  smoked  the  best  cigars  in 
the  town.  Returned  to  their  camp,  the  spectacle  of  a 
number  of  well-dressed,  sprightly  children  playing  under 
the  trees  reminded  them  strongly  of  home,  where  changes 
of  clothing  were  more  numerous  than  on  board  canoes, 
and  where  whatever  bath  tub  may  be  available,  is  not 
paved  with  scrap  tin  and  broken  glass  and  crockery. 

Suddenly  an  unexpected,  an  unhoped  for  influence 
appeared  upon  the  scene.  A  young  lady,  who  apparently 
had  a  nephew  or  niece  among  the  children,  strolled  toward 
the  water's  edge  a  little  way  from  the  boats,  and  amused 
herself  with  the  gambols  of  a  huge  water-dog.  The  par- 
lor critic  would  scarcely  have  called  her  beautiful — proba- 
bly at  the  Court  of  Jove  there  were  goddesses  more 
beautiful  than  Juno,  nevertheless  Juno  ruled  men  as  no 
rival  beauty  did.  The  lady  with  the  dog  noticed  no 
member  of  the  expedition,  but  it  was  impossible  for  the 
mariners  to  be  as  unconcerned  in  return,  for  maidens  who 
are  embodiments  o{  health,  strength,  grace  and  modesty 
are  not  seen  often  enough  even  where  maidens  most 
do  congregate.  The  Commodore  sat  down  and  leaned 
against  a  tree  to  hide  the  dusty  back  of  his  shirt ;  the 
Purser  made  haste  to  don  a  blue  jacket  which  he  had 
fortunately  brought  with  him  ;  the  Vice,  who,  apparently 
with  malice  aforethought,  had  shaved  himself,  sat  in  his 
canoe,  adjusted  his  statesman-like  glasses,  and  took  full 
satisfaction  out  of  the  ennobling  spectacle,  while  the  Cook, 


t  ii  i| 

I!!  I'  ' 

a"  " ' 

it  II 11 

In  ' 

pi  \ 


■I 
(1 


; 


I  i  H 


i 


■  .  r.\    :;: 

if 


142 


CANOEING   IN   KANUCKIA. 


with  characteristic  modesty,  crept  within  the  tent,  where 
he  might  behold  and  yet  remain  invisible.  When  the  lady 
departed,  as  unfortunately  she  did,  the  quartette  debated 
whether  she  went  on  wings,  or  floated  off  on  one  of  the 
clouds  that  were  hovering  about,  or  was  wafted  away  by 
the  fortunate  breezes  which  could  express  their  admira- 
tion without  being  suspected  of  forwardness  or  flattery, 
or,    whether   she  was  suddenlv   translated    to   a   better 


The  Enchantress. 

world,  as  the  Vice  enthusiastically  declared  was  no  more 
than  her  desert.  And  yet,  the  material  optics  of  every 
member  of  that  expedition  knew  that  the  lady  walked 
away  upon  her  own  feet,  as  any  ordinary  mortal  would 
have  done,  for  each  of  them  had  gazed  industriously  after 
her  as  long  as  her  form  was  visible.  The  difference  of 
opinion  led  to  no  dispute,  however,  for  the  manners  of 
the  expedition  had  noticeably  improved  within  an  hour, 


VISITORS. 


U3 


and  though  no  canoeist  had  modified  his  apparel  in  any 
way,  each  man  had  something  in  his  face  which  made  him 
more  presentable. 

Meanwhile  the  little  clouds  which  had  been  previously 
acting,  each  for  itself,  gathered  in  convention,  resolved 
that  in  union  there  was  strength,  and  then  proceeded  to 
business.  The  merry  children,  with  juvenile  trust  in 
nature,  suspected  nothing  until  they  felt  it,  and  then  pro- 
tests were  of  no  avail.  But  the  Commodore  took  charge 
of  the  entire  party,  and  massed  it  within  the  expedition's 
tent,  where  the  children  had  a  glorious  time  while  the 
navigators  strolled  about  outside  and  made-believe  enjoy 
the  heaven-sent  shower-bath.  Then  the  shower  departed 
and  so  did  the  children,  the  shades  of  night  were  drawn, 
and  behind  these  the  expedition  hid  itself  while  it 
changed  its  soaked  clothing.  Then  it  lit  its  evening 
candle  and  prepared  for  bed,  the  Vice  and  the  Purser  in- 
sisting that  the  evening  couches  should  be  within  the  tent 
instead  of  the  boats.  While  in  the  preliminary  stages  of 
a  discussion,  however,  a  vivacious  small  dog  announced 
the  approach  of  visitors,  and  then  usnered  to  the  front  of 
the  tent  a  gentleman,  a  lady  and  a  small  hand-wagon. 
The  couple  proved  to  be  the  parents  of  one  of  the  chil- 
dren who  had  been  sheltered  by  the  tent  during  the  after- 
noon, and  they  had  called  to  express  their  thanks,  some 
of  which  were  from  the  tongue  and  heart,  while  others 
were  from  the  hand-wagon,  and  consisted  of  bottles  of 
excellent  ale,  a  huge  loaf  of  cake,  some  dainty  preserves, 


'  n : 


■^^^ 


■«?C"!HBBBi 


iili 

!l  I' '! 


ktl     ♦»    *■ 


I 


iV 


:1 


t 


t  4^    ! 

' ' !! 


144 


CANOEINCl   IN   KANUCKIA. 


etc.  The  gentleman  proved  to  be  an  ex-officer  of  a 
famous  Canadian  regiment,  so  the  Commodore  and  the 
Cook  talked  military  affairs  with  him  ;  he  knew  all  about 
Dominion  politics,  so  he  and  the  Vice  found  a  point  of 
contact ;  he  was  also  of  English  birth,  and  when  the 
Purser  learned  this,  he  monopolized  him,  and  the  couple 
talked  church  and  agriculture,  Gladstone  and  Melton- 
Mowbray  pork  pies,  while  the  lady  exhibited  a  degree  of 
tact  and  vivacity  which  prevented  the  other  gentlemen 
from  remembering  that  the  place  was  not  a  parlor,  and 
that  they  themselves  were  not  within  their  respective 
funereal  dress  suits.  Then  several  ci  "Tens  with  aquatic 
tastes  dropped  in,  one  by  one,  and  ed  various  gen- 

erous hospitalities,  and  the  result  of  it  all  was  that  the 
expedition  thought  no  more  of  its  shabbiness  than  if  this 
condition  had  suddenly  gone  out  of  existence. 

It  was  not  until  an  unprecedentedly  late  hour  that  the 
last  visitor  departed,  and  the  members  of  the  squadron 
retired  with  a  faint  notion  that  rain  was  again  beginning 
to  patter  upon  the  leaves  overhead. 


M 


IX. 


s 


AREAS   OF   RAIN. 

^  LEEP  was  sedulously  courted  this  morning  by  tlic 
entire  squadron,  for  not  only  did  the  late  hours  and 
social  dissipations  of  the  preceding  night  have  a  sopo- 
rific effect,  but  a  steady  rain  had  set  in  during  the  small 
hours,  and  not  even  the  Cook  felt  any  disposition  to  arise 
and  shine.  The  tent  was  rather  close  quarters  for  four, 
so  the  Commodore  had  slept  in  his  canoe,  and  for  him 
rising  meant  stepping  out  of  a  dry  nest  into  a  steady 
down-pour.  After  a  while,  however,  voices  began  to 
issue  from  the  tent  and  a  desire  for  breakfast  soon  as- 
serted itself.  As  the  camp  was  in  the  outskirts  of  a 
town,  no  wood  was  to  be  had  save  through  purchase,  so 
the  Rob-Roy  cuisine  was  resorted  to  with  eminent  suc- 
cess, and  a  wandering  small-boy  who  spoke  nothing  but 
Kanuck  of  the  most  rudimentary  description,  was  per- 
suaded to  fill  an  order  from  the  maternal  larder. 

Breakfast  was  at  last  finished,  and  numerous  pipes 
were  smoked  to  kill  time  until  the  rain  should  cease,  but 
still  it  poured  down  with  such  steady  persistency,  that  it 
had  its  effect  even  upon  the  buoyant  spirits  of  the  quar- 
tette. The  sole  objects  of  interest  which  presented  them- 
7 


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I  I!  i 

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il 


11^ 'I 


I'H 


146 


CANOEING   IN   KANUCKIA. 


selves  were  boats  laden  with  hay  which  drove  past  the 
tent-door  down  the  river  before  the  wind.  These  the 
Commodore  sketched  with  the  adjoining  result,  and  then 


Aristocratic. 


relapsing  into  a  state  of  demoralization  was  maliciously 
portrayed  by  the  artist  on  page  147.  At  length  the  show- 
ers became  intermittent,  and  the  two  division  command 


Plebeian. 

ers  sallied  forth  in  different  directions  to  collate  informa- 
tion regarding  the  rapids. 

"  One  charm  ot  the  character  of  your  true  rural," 
remarked  the  Commodore,  on  their  return  to  compare 
notes,  "  is  that  he  is  unconventional.  When  you  have 
learned   the  opinions  of  one,  upon  matters  about  him, 


148 


CANOEING  IN   KANUCKIA. 


11  :] 


Iplii 


you  are  not  justified  in  accepting  them  as  those  of  the 
community  at  large." 

"  Very  true,"  said  the  Vice.  "  I  have  spent  two 
hours  in  interviewing  the  honest  villagers  near  the  water- 
side, to  ascertain  if  the  rapids,  which  begin  a  short  half 
mile  below,  are  passable,  and  from  no  two  of  them  did  I 
get  the  same  reply.  One  said  yes,  another  said  no,  a 
third  looked  doubtful,  a  fourth  encouraging,  number  five 
was  dumb,  and  from  a  dozen  or  two  others  I  obtained 
enough  of  shrugs,  gestures,  and  facial  contortions  to 
supply  the  clown  of  a  pantomime.  So  little  recks  your 
true  rural  of  what  doesn't  particularly  concern  him  that 
one  fellow,  who  works  in  a  flour-mill,  informed  me  that 
there  were  no  rapids  whatever,  any  where  in  the  river." 

*'  Proof  positive  that  he  doesn't  pay  taxes  upon  prop- 
erty," said  the  Commodore.  *'  The  tax-collector  is  the 
grand  educator  upon  local  geography  :  hence,  the  most 
intelligent  nations  of  Europe  are  those  which  are  taxed 
heaviest." 

"  The  Turks,  for  instance,"  suggested  the  Vice.  "  I 
accept  your  theory,  however,  for  the  sake  of  offering  it 
back  to  you  as  proof  positive  that  we  Americans  are  the 
most  intelligent  people  on  the  face  of  the  globe." 

"  The  exact  bearings  of  taxation  upon  the  passability 
of  rapids,"  said  the  Commodore,  "  may  be  clear  to  a 
statesman's  mind,  but  the  editorial  brain  fails  to  record 
any  impression  regarding  it.  The  question  is,  are  we  to 
run  the  rapids  or  pass  around  them  by  canal  ?     I  propose 


I 


A  COUNCIL  OF  WAR. 


149 


first  to  listen  to  the  counsels  of  my  captains,  and  then  to 
act  according  to  my  own.  Officers  will  speak  in  reverse 
order  of  rank.     Cook  ?  " 

**  Run  the  rapids  by  all  means,"  promptly  replied  the 
Cook,  who  had  no  nautical  reputation  to  lose,  but  might 
gain  an  immense  amount  without  exceeding  the  demand. 

**  Purser  ?"  said  the  Commodore. 

The  custodian  of  the  fleet's  treasure  tossed  his 
auburn  locks  gaily  behind  his  ears,  and  replied, 

"  As  well  ask  the  bird  if  it  would  soar  heavenward, 
the  imprisoned  soul  if  it  would  yearn  for  light,  the  poet 
if  he  would  seek  his  ideal !  " 

*•  Or  a  duck  could  he  swim,"  put  in  the  Vice. 

"  Do  you  mean  that  you  prefer  to  run  the  rapids  ?  " 
asked  the  Commodore. 

"Certainly,"  replied  the  Purser. 

"  Say  so,  then,"  said  the  Commodore,  with  editorial 
sternness,  "  Vice  ?  " 

*'  The  one  delight  of  a  canoe  cruise,"  said  the  Vice, 
•*  is  to  run  rapids.  I  don't  know  of  another  joy  that  com- 
pares with  it,  unless  it  be  that  of  a  Presidential  campaign 
full  of  personalities." 

"  I  decide  in  favor  of  the  canal,"  said  the  Commo- 
dore. "  My  duty  to  society  demands  it.  Moreover,  1 
encountered  this  morning  a  large  number  of  natives,  all 
of  whom  without  a  single  exception  assured  me  that  the 
rapids  could  not  be  run.  Running  unknown  rapids  is 
attended  by  considerable  danger,  and  while  the  loss  of  a 


m 


M 


i;o 


CANOEING   IN   KANUCKIA. 


l  t' 


U    ii 


Statesman,  an  Artist  or  a  Scribbler  might  be  a  blessing  to 
suffering  humanity,  an  Editor  cannot  be  spared.  Editors 
are  born,  not  made,  and  are  consequently  very  rare." 

*'  Which  fact,  like  that  of  the  crocodile  destroying  its 
young,"  remarked  the  Vice,  **  is  a  proof  of  the  merciful 
interposition  of  Providence  to  save  the  human  race  from 
what  might  otherwise  be  a  terrible  scourge." 

As  the  natives  had  missed  neither  spoons,  poultry 
nor  any  other  easily  secreted  property  during  the  night, 
they  viewed  the  departing  fleet  with  kindly  eyes,  and 
pressed  sundry  favors  upon  it.  The  expedition  at- 
tempted to  advance  in  column  under  sail,  but  it  speedi'y 
became  involved  in  difficulties  with  sundry  saw-logs  and 
slightly  submerged  ropes,  until  all  available  seamanship 
was  called  into  exercise  to  avoid  humiliatinsf  disaster. 
When  the  entrance  to  the  canal  was  reached,  the 
navigators  discovered  that  the  water  was  spanned,  at 
short  intervals,  by  bridges  not  only  so  low  as  to  compel 
the  striking  of  masts,  but  also  to  necessitate  the  striking 
of  signal  staffs  fore  and  aft,  and  the  temporary  assump- 
tion, by  the  various  commanders,  of  a  physical  attitude 
most  truly  devout.  As  the  fourth  bridge  was  approached 
by  the  expedition,  it  was  also  reached  by  an  industrious 
shower,  and  no  one  made  haste  to  pass  from  under  the 
cover  afforded  by  the  structure. 

"  Think  of  the  poor  sailors  on  the  broad  ocean,  with 
no  bridge  to  shelter  them,"  remarked  the  Cook,  as  he 
improved  the  opportunity  to  light  a  peaceful  pipe.     Just 


A  LEAKY   ROOF. 


151 


then  a  small  stream  of  water,  in  search  of  its  final  level, 
meandered  between  two  planks  of  the  bridge,  and  trickled 
into  the  Cook's  pipe,  producing  a  sizzle  which  seemed  to 
greatly  titillate  the  nerves  of  those  who  were  not  smok- 
ing. Then  another  stream  struck  the  helmet  of  the  Vice 
and  broke  into  what  would  have  been  a  graceful  cascade 
had  not  its  perfect  curve  been  broken  by  the  official 
nose.  The  Purser  bowed  his  head  to  avoid  showing 
unseemly  merriment  at  the  expense  of  his  superior  offi- 
cer, when  another  stream,  heavily  charged  with  the  soil 
which  wagons  had  deposited  upon  the  bridge,  insinuated 
itself  between  his  shirt  and  his  skin.  Then  began  a  mag- 
nificent but  ineffectual  struggle  of  mind  against  matter. 
Given,  a  bridge  the  planks  of  which  were  not  more  than 
ten  inches  wide,  and  several  men  whose  shoulders  ex- 
ceeded in  width  any  two  of  the  planks,  and  whose  depth 
of  chest,  with  its  environment,  also  exceeded  the  dis- 
tance between  any  two  cracks,  and  the  reader  will  per- 
ceive, more  freely  than  by  any  logical  form  of  demonstra- 
tion, the  utter  futility  of  free  will  in  a  contest  against 
destiny.  The  best  that  man  can  do  in  such  an  unequal 
conflict  is  to  prepare  himself  as  well  as  possible  for  the 
blow,  and  this  the  Commodore  did  by  throwing  a  rubber 
poncho  (a  square  sheet  with  a  hole  in  the  middle)  over  his 
head,  the  ends  dropping  outside  the  gunwales  of  the 
boat,  and  shedding  the  water  into  the  canal.  The 
wooden  decks  of  the  Chrysalids  kept  water  from  dripping 
into  the  boats  except  amidships,  the  oilcloth  decking  of 


111 


l;li 


It 

Hi 


Hh   f\}     \>:  M 

1       *         ' 

li; 

!|  l'"' 

k  '■  ■' 

II    '*  * 

i;  I 
(    " 


'■  r 


tli 


li  II' 


Wm^i 


V 


;i  1 


*  •'  III 


I' 

r 
I 

1' 


K  pi 


liii 


152 


CANOEING   IN  KANUCKIA. 


the  flagship  served  a  similar  purpose,  but  the  inside  of 
the  Cherub  was  soon  deplorable  in  the  extreme. 

In  time  the  sun  banished  the  shower,  and  under  its 
beams  the  canoeists  brightened  sufficiently  to  drop  into 
song,  beating  time  with  their  paddles.  As  they  ap- 
proached one  bridge,  and  recurred  to  the  reflection  that 
civilization  has  its  penalties  as  well  as  its  pleasures,  the 
keeper  of  the  bridge  good-naturedly  opened  it. 

'•  By  Jove ! "  exclaimed  the  Commodore,  '*  no  one  but 
a  Frenchman  would  have  been  civil  enough  to  do  that. 
Let's  sing  the  *  Marseillaise  *  for  him,  and  remind  him 
of  his  far  distant  home.     Now  !  • 

'  Allons,  enfants  de  la  patrie. 
Le  jour  de  gloire  est  arrivi.'  " 

The  song  was  given  with  spirit,  and  with  that  confi- 
dence of  accent  which  song  somehow  inspires.  The 
squadron,  in  perfect  line,  and  keeping  a  rhythmic  stroke 
as  of  one  man,  reached  the  bridge  just  as  they  struck  the 

refrain, — 

"  Aux  armes,  citoyens  ! 
Formez  vos  battalions ! 
Marchez,  marchez,  qu'un  sang  inipur, 
Abreuve  nos  sillons." 

The  bridge-keeper  raised  himself  from  the  leaning 
position  which  he  had  at  first  assumed,  his  eye  brightened, 
a  flush  of  red  showed  under  the  dark  brown  of  bis  cheek. 

"  That's  a  magnificent  song,"  he  shouted  in  French. 
"What  do  you  call  it?" 


C 


•  I  ■  • . 


I  1* 

I  'i 


II  f 


«  ■< 
I  » 


If' 

i:  I, 

I;. ' 

r 


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i> 


1 15  MS 


■ ,  1 

1 

V 

u 
II 

^  ■  '1 

i;  ■ 

\ 

Iji 

r  ■ 

r 
K 

li 

if 
1  i' 

In       |s 

iL 

154 


CANOEING   IN    KANUCKIA. 


Four  paddles  stopped  abruptly  in  mid-air,  four  men 
stared  blankly  at  each  other,  then  the  Commodore  sank 
back  into  his  cockpit  as  nerveless  as  Salvini  in  the  finale 
of  '•  La  Morte  Civile."  In  a  moment  he  recovered  him- 
self enough  to  gasp, 

"  True  enough ;  the  ancestors  of  these  French  Cana- 
dians came  over  a  century  before  Rouget  de  Lisle  was 
born  ! " 

**  What  ?"  exclaimed  the  Vice,  hastily  backing  out  of 
line  and  turning  his  boat,  "  and  that  poor  fellow  knows 
nothing  of  the  glory  of  his  race,  of  the  rights  of  man,  and 
things  ?     I'll  go  back  and  enlighten  him." 

"  Let  him  alone,"  said  the  Purser.  "  He  knows 
enough  to  be  polite  and  sympathetic — to  volunteer  extra 
labor  that  others  may  be  saved  annoyance,  so  he  knows 
more  of  the  rights  of  man  than  vou  can  teach  him." 

The  Vice  meekly  drew  back  into  line,  merely  asking 
if  it  was  not  -nearly  dinner-time.  As  one  bank  of  the 
canal  was  heavily  covered  with  weeds,  and  the  other  was 
being  frequently  traversed  by  tow-horses,  the  noon-day 
meal  was  taken  in  the  boats,  the  four  being  temporarily 
lashed  together  that  the  various  viands  might  be  passed 
back  and  forth  without  danger  of  being  dropped  over- 
board. The  leisure  consequent  upon  dining  enabled  the 
squadron  to  observe  critically  the  crews  of  the  various 
barges  that  passed,  and  to  learn  that  although  the  spirit 
of  trade  has  not  altered  the  French  canal-boatmen  of 
Canada  from  their  national  model,  the  environment  of 


PROFESSIONAL  COURTESY. 


155 


Circumstance  has  made  the  rider  of  the  canal-horse  like 
unto  his  brother  navigators  of  all  climes.  The  remarks 
which  these  gentlemen  volunteered  as  they  passed  the 
squadron  were  all  couched  in  the  French  tongue,  but  the 
accent  was  that  of  the  Erie  canal,  the  Delaware  and  Hud- 
son, and  all  other  watery  highways  upon  which  the 
motive  power  is  equine  or  mulish. 

These  canalers  indeed,  as  was  quickly  evident,  were  of 
cosmopolitan  or  at  least  of  republican  habit,  for  so  per- 
sonal did  their  remarks  become  that  some  means  of  re- 
taliation or  self-defence  was  manifestly  necessary.  Dig- 
nified silence  is  all  very  well,  but  your  modern  canaler 
does  not  appreciate  it  in  the  traditional  fashion,  and  when 
a  quiet  professional  gentleman  is  invited  to  "  come  out  of 
that  and  have  a  head  put  on  him  "  by  a  burly  ruffian,  it 
is  apparent  that  the  policy  of  silence  is  not  always  th.it 
of  wisdom.  Under  these  circumstances  it  occurred  to 
the  Vice,  who  had  been  a  "  Son  of  Malta,"  that  portions 
of  the  extinct  ritual  might  be  made  available.  The 
Cook  was  accordingly  instructed  to  hang  the  expedition- 
ary frying-pan  over  his  forward-thwart  and  provide  him- 
self with  a  short  baton,  wherewith  to  beat  it  after  the 
manner  of  a  Chinese  gong.  The  next  "  Bargees  "  that  we 
encountered  opened  the  usual  conversation,  inquiring 
where  we  were  from,  and  where  bound,  all  which  ques- 
tions were  answered  with  due  civility.  Then  the  chaff 
element  cropped  out. 

"Say,  Boss,  whar  did  you  get  that  hat?"     The   re- 


I 


I 


III 


11  i 


11" 


h\ 


.156 


CANOEING    IN   KANUCKIA. 


mark  was  addressed  to  the  Commodore  who  headed  the 
h'ne.  In  a  resonant  voice  that  officer  repeated  :  "  He 
asks  where  did  I  get  my  hat." 

Then  the  Vice,  "  He  asks  where  did  he  get  his  hat  ?** 
Then  the  Purser,  "  He  asks  where  did  he  get  his  hat  ?'* 
Then  the  Cook,  "  He  asks  where  did  he  get  his  hat  ?  " 
and  then  lifting  his  bdton  he  proclaimed  in  a  stento- 
rian voice  RECORDED  !  and  mightily  smote  the  frying-pan 
till  it  rung  again.  The  invariable  sequence  of  this  was  a 
momentary  pause,  during  which  the  squadron  usually 
passed  out  of  ear-shot.  Sometimes  however,  the  canalers 
attempted  a  continuation  of  the  attack,  as  for  instance  : 

"  Now  then,"  (but  really  this  part  of  the  sentence  can 
only  be  represented  by  blanks)  "  Come  out  o*  that,  and 
I'll  learn  yer." 

Commodore.  *'  He  calls  us  scions  of  a  noble  race.** 
Vice.     "  He  calls  us  scions  of  a  noble  race." 
Purser.     "  He  calls  us  scions  of  a  noble  race.'* 
Cook.     "  He  calls  us  scions    of  a   noble   race.     Re- 
corded !    Whang  ! ! " 

**  The  recorded  answer  turneth  away  chaff,"  said  the 
Vice  somewhat  irreverently  after  the  success  of  the  ex- 
periment was  established,  and  so  it  was,  for  the  profane 
resources  of  the  most  fluent  mule-driver  failed  him  in 
the  presence  of  the  frying-pan. 

Soon  after  dinner  the  squadron  approached  a  lock, 
and  the  Commodore  went  ashore  to  exhibit  the  passes  of 
his  command.     As   the  collective  measurement  of  the 


PASSING   THE   LOCKS. 


157 


boats  did  not  reach  ten  tons,  the  four  had  been  inchided 
in  a  single  pass,  the  cost  of  which  was  twenty  cents,  and 
this  sufficed  for  the  dozen  locks  which  were  to  be  passed 
before  the  smooth  water  of  the  river  could  aeain  be 
reached.  It  was  probably  a  realization  of  the  small 
amount  of  money  which  their  labor  represented  which 
made  the  various  lock-keepers  so  solemn  of  mien  as  they 
labored  over  their  gates  to  let  the  Liliputian  squadron 
through.  The  walls  of  each  lock  were  substantially  built 
of  huge  blocks  of  grey  stone,  and  as  the  water  subsided 
rapidly  the  Artist  imagined  himself  being  let  down  into  a 
dark  dungeon.  He  hastily  drew  his  portfolio  from  a 
locker,  and  proceeded  to  sketch  a  study  for  a  "  Prisoner 
of  Chillon,"  hugging  the  shady  side  of  the  lock  as  he  did 
so.  The  sketch  proceeded  to  his  satisfaction,  and  then 
some  loose  earth  behind  the  stones  ejected  through  a 
crack  some  of  its  superfluous  moisture  in  a  parabolic 
curve  over  the  Artist's  shoulder,  and  upon  the  sketch, 
putting  in  some  half  tints  which  gave  the  picture  an  air 
of  extreme  realism  and  antiquity. 

Reaching  at  length  a  long  stretch  of  canal  upon  which 
no  boats  were  visible,  the  squadron  disembarked  and 
washed  its  respective  faces  with  soap,  an  operation  ren- 
dered necessary  by  the  drippings  it  had  encountered 
under  the  bridge,  and  during  the  various  showers.  An 
hour  later,  the  face  of  the  Vice  looked  as  if  it  had  been 
liberally  but  carelessly  patched  with  court-plaster.  Frag- 
ments of  skin   fluttered  aimlessly  from  his  cheeks  and 


i 


I" 


II  :i 

I'    t 


m\ 


.  m 


ii> . 


II 


I! 

111 


if 


1! 
li 

<l 

K 

II 
I'' 


158 


CANOEING   IN   KANUCKIA. 


brow,  while  his  Roman  nose  was  as  picturesque  as  the 
brown  shoulders  of  a  tramp  who  had  lately  begged  a  very 
raixcied  white  shirt.  The  Vice  became  conscious  that  he 
was  attracting  attention,  and  a  pocket-mirror,  furtively 
consulted,  revealed  to  him  the  cause.  He  passed  his 
mirror  to  the  others,  and  the  merriment  of  the  party  came 
to  a  sudden  stop,  for  every  one  else  was  displaying  symp- 
toms of  impending  trouble  of  the  same  sort.  Not  one  of 
them  had  experienced  an  hour  of  sunshine  a  day  for 
months  ;  their  faces  had  been  burning  steadily  for  days, 
and  the  alkali  of  the  soap  had  destroyed  the  last  bond 
between  the  burned  cuticle  and  that  beneath.  The  Pur- 
ser suggested  that  cold  cream,  being  peculiarly  a  French 
production,  could  doubtless  be  found  in  the  next  village, 
but  the  Vice  said  him  nay. 

"  Frenchmen  who  don't  know  the  Marseillaise  when 
they  hear  it,"  said  he,  "  can't  be  expected  to  know  any- 
thing about  the  appliances  of  modern  civilization." 

The  morning's  rain,  the  late  start  and  sundrv  delavs 
had  hindered  the  fleet  more  than  it  realized,  and  the  sun 
was  setting  before  the  canal  was  half-way  passed.  It 
became  necessary  therefore  to  camp  on  the  canal  bank, 
but  this  was  no  great  hardship,  as  a  smooth  strip  of  green 
sward  opportunely  presented  itself  on  the  side  away  from 
the  tow-path,  as  shown  at  the  left  of  this  sketch.  A  moral 
title  is  appended  to  this  illustration  because  the  Vice 
went  off  by  himself  after  supplies  and  came  back 
thoroughly   sobered,  as  he    intimated,  by  the   sublime 


I 


hfp 


,ii 


111 


i6o 


CANOEING   IN   KANUCKIA. 


m>: 


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Ur; 

: 

8  -        gi  '     ■^ 

» ■   ■    bS 

h 

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.-«?      -: 

'mi 

■■     .       ■         1    ■    ! 

!:    ^   1'  1^;     '     ' 

''       ll  i^'     '^'  1° 

■If!  Hi 

i 

immensity  of  the  canal,  which,  he  said,  stretched  away 
before  him  like  the  narrow  path  which  he  remem- 
bered as  depicted  in  the  **  Pilgrim's  Progress "  of  his 
boyhood. 

Indeed  there  was  a  pastoral  beauty  about  this  canal 
which  one  is  not  apt  to  associate  with  artificial  water- 
ways. It  was  but  a  few  miles  in  length  and  skirted  a 
lovely  valley,  rich  in  historic  association  and  beautifully 
diversified  by  wood  and  meadow,  hill  and  stream.  Be- 
yond the  lowlands,  as  shown  in  the  sketch,  rose  a  com- 
manding and  somewhat  isolated  mountain  range  which 
caught  the  last  rays  of  the  setting  sun,  and  welcomed 
him  again  in  the  morning  in  such  charming  fashion  that 
it  was  simple  luxury  to  exist  within  the  range  of  its  influ- 
ence. Since  crossing  the  line,  too,  minor  incidents  of  daily 
recurrence  recalled  the  fact  that  this  valley  was  first  pene- 
trated by  emissaries  of  "  Mother  Church."  On  every 
side  the  little  tin  covered  spires,  one  just  like  the  other, 
arose,  and  at  sunrise  and  sunset,  the  matin  and  vesper 
bells  sent  their  notes  far  and  near,  reminding  all  within 
range  that  the  priest  was  at  the  altar  holding  aloft  the 
sacred  emblems  and  repeating  the  angel  us.  The  mem- 
bers of  the  expedition  were  all  Protestants  by  birth  and 
association,  but  there  was  not  one  of  them  who  had  not 
a  tender  spot  in  his  heart  when  the  bells  rang  out  and  he 
knew  that  hundreds  of  fellow  beings,  far  and  near,  paused 
a  moment  at  their  tasks  to  repeat  the  prayer  that  the 
church  had  taught  them  to  say.     These  little  churches,  of 


■■ 


MOTHER   CHURCH. 


i6i 


which  this  may  serve  as  a  type,  form  a  charming  feature 
of  the  Acadian  land.  You  may  walk  into  any  of  them 
at  any  hour,  and  some  are  very  quaint,  and  in  a  strange 
fashion  touching,  in  their  interior  design  and  adornment. 
It  seemed  as  though  the  prayers  of  generations  of  simple 
minded  folk  were  imprisoned  there,  willing  and  ever 
anxious  to  get  up  to  heaven,  if  that  were  possible,  and 


^~y<^'' 


The  Typical  Church. 

yet  hampered  somehow  so  that  they  did  not  make  it  out. 
Often  as  one  or  another  of  the  quartette  strolled  into 
a  village  church  and  sat  down  in  the  suggestive  silence, 
a  man  or  woman  would  come  in  and  kneeling  repeat  a 
prayer.  To  say  that  the  act  is  mechanical  and  heartless 
is  not  to  the  purpose.  It  may  be  both  mechanical  and 
heartless,  but  it  is  not  meaningless,  and  through  it  and 
other  like  observances,   the  church   retains  a   tolerably 


! 


'III 


in 


1^ 


If''    ■ 

'if, 


ft 


:  I! 


162 


CANOEING    IN    KANUCKIA. 


'i.. 


Stronghold  upon  a  very  considerable  fraction  of  Christen- 
dom. Would  that  the  home-feeling  could  be  as  successfully 
cultivated  by  some  of  our  Protestant  sects  as  it  seems  to 
be  by  the  church  of  Rome.  Perhaps  however  the  home 
teeling  as  it  there  exists  is  incompatible  with  advanced 
thought,  and  the  liquefaction  of  gases,  and  Boston  Mon- 
day Lectures. 

So  at  least  the  Vice  was  remarking  when  he  suddenlv 
became  aware  that  a  canal-propeller  was  coming  down 
his  recent  straight  and  narrow  path,  towing  behind  her  an 
endless  chain  of  lumber  barges.  Anxiety  for  the  boats 
banished  every  other  sentiment.  The  Red  Lakers  were 
confidently  trusted  to  take  care  of  themselves  bv  their 
commanders,  but  Chrysalids  must  be  carefully  tended  and 
held  offshore,  lest  the  swell  should  dash  them  against  the 
stone  facing  of  the  embankment.  Considering  what  the 
Rochefort  had  been  through  on  her  various  lee  shores, 
this  solicitude  seemed  rather  superfluous.  Furthermore, 
no  perceptible  swell  was  caused  by  the  passage  of  the 
tow,  and  the  only  notable  result  was  that  the  Purser,  in 
his  anxiety  to  hold  the  Arethusela  off  shore  with  a  boat- 
hook,  lost  his  balance  and  took  a  ducking,  much  to  the 
amusement  of  spectators  on  the  canal  boats. 

An  exquisite  moonlit  night  was  this  on  the  canal. 
The  tent  stood  white  against  the  grassy  bank,  the  canal 
glittered,  from  far  away  could  be  heard  the  hoarse  roar  of 
rapids,  and  farther  still  the  blue  mountain  range  rose  flat 
against  the  sky  as  if  it   had  no  irregularities  save  those 


'"•  h 


II-    \ 


A  PRETTY   GIRL. 


163 


which  marked  its  outline.     Only  one  anxiety  marred  the 
serenity  of  the  fleet. 

Ever  since  "  the  Enchantress  "  arose  upon  its  horizon, 
one  member  of  the  command  who  shall  be  nameless,  had 
not  been  quite  in  his  right  mind.  While  passing  along 
the  canal,  he  had  evinced  a  preference  for  such  airs  as 
"Annie  Laurie"  and  "  The  Girl  I  left  behind  Me,"  while 
the  '*  Mulligan  Guards  "  and  the  Marseillaise  failed  to  stir 
his  soul  as  was  their  wont.  This  evening  he  passed  walk- 
ing up  and  down  the  canal  bank  in  the  moonlight,  apart 
from  the  rest,  and  he  was  even  suspected  of  declaiming 
poetry  sotto-voce.  There  the  squadron  left  him  when  it 
turned  in. 

After  a  long  interval  of  quiet,  no  one  knows  what  the 
hour  was,  the  sleepers  were  softly  awakened  by  the  en- 
thusiast, who  by  the  straggling  moonbeams  was  seen  with 
a  finger  on  his  lips  as  an  injunction  of  silence,  while  with 
the  other  hand  he  pointed  toward  the  remains  of  the 
camp-fire  in  front  of  the  tent.  Each  man  arose  noise- 
lessly ;  one  softly  cocked  his  revolver,  another  grasped  a 
boat  hook,  while  a  third  clutched  two  empty  beer-bottles, 
stole  out  of  the  tent,  and  peered  warily  about,  in  the 
shadows  of  the  trees.  Each  man  saw  that  the  boats  were 
safe,  and  as  all  cargoes  had  been  removed  to  the  tent 
before  nightfall,  the  nature  of  the  danger  which  impended 
could  not  be  imagined  by  any  one.  The  demented  man 
threw  several  twigs  upon  the  smouldering  embers,  thus 
making  a  bright  light ;  then   he  squatted  near  the  fire, 


ill 

1 

1 

'  ^1 

s 

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Hf  i'      I'M  i 

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li 


164 


CANOEING  IN  KANUCKIA. 


motioned  to  the  others  to  take  similar  attitudes,  and 
spoke  thus  to  his  mystified  auditors  : 

**  Gentlemen,  for  years  I  have  endeavored  to  formftlate 
a  definition  of  the  phrase  *  pretty  girl  ;*  not  to  give 
a  mere  literal  description,  but  one  which  should  be 
artistic  as  well  as  truthful,  and  have  the  virtue,  peculiar 
to  all  true  art,  of  suggesting  more  than  it  says.  At  last 
I  have  fully  succeeded  ;  or,  rather,  a  glorious  inspiration 
has  enlightened  me.  Before  disclosing  this  marvel  of 
truth  and  poetry,  I  beg  you  to  give  me  your  own  defini- 
tions of  the  same  precious  phrase — they  will  be  useful  by 
way  of  contrast." 

"  1  can  better  tell  you  what  a  pretty  girl  is  not,"  an- 
swered one  of  the  party  promptly.  "  She  is  not  an  imbe- 
cile who  rouses  people  at  dead  of  night  for  the  idiotic 
purpose  of  revising  standard  lexicography." 

"  Nor  is  she,"  quoth  another,  who,  being  a  very  light 
sleeper,  sprang  to  his  feet,  in  a  violent  fit  of  trembling,  on 
being  aroused,  "  nor  is  she  a  being  who  will  in  cold  blood 
frighten  an  honest  fellow  almost  to  death." 

**  Nor  a  person  whose  literary  musings  disturb  the 
slumber  of  any  one,  unless,  haply,  he  be  editor  of  a  paper 
containing  a  poet's  column,"  said  the  third. 

"  Listen,  then,"  replied  the  lunatic,  his  look  of  scorn 
giving  place  to  a  lambent  light  from  within,  which  irradi- 
ated his  pale  features.  '*  A  pretty  girl  is  a  person  from 
whose  glass  you  are  willing  to  drink,  after  she  is  done 
with  it." 


THE  reme:dy. 


IJ5 


For  several  moments  there  was  dead  silence,  then 
somebody  asked  in  the  iciest  of  tones, 

't  And  you  aroused  us  only  for  the  purpose  of  impart- 
ing this." 

*'  I  did." 

"  Have  I  offered  you  a  single  affront  since  the  cruise 
began  ?"  asked  another.  •'  I  certainly  have  tried  hard  to 
do  my  duty,  and  have  never  discriminated  knowingly 
against  any  one." 

"  You  are  guiltless,''  was  the  reply. 

"  I  suppose  I  am  the  guilty  one,"  groaned  the  third. 
*'  I  gave  him  a  cigar  to-day  which  was  not  what  it  should 
have  been.  But  how  out  of  all  proportion  to  the  offence 
is  che  punishment !  " 

The  object  of  these  denunciations,  remaining  un- 
changed of  mien,  began  again  to  pace  the  bank  beneath 
the  moon-beams,  while  his  companions  returned  to  their 
blankets  and  failed  miserably  to  devise  anv  vengeance 
commensurate  with  his  shameful  act. 

At  length  the  wisest  of  the  trio,  raising  himself  on  his 
elbow,  exclaimed  "  I  have  it — make  him  marry  one." 


I 


X. 


i 


I,! 

n 

III 
'  li 


( 


i  ) 


1 


! 


:  ■    ■ IJ  V 


t'. 
h 


ACADIA. 

AT  length  the  voyagers  seemed  really  in  Acadia.  A 
large  village  at  the  lower  end  of  the  canal  exhibited 
in  charming  profusion  the  red-tiled  roofs,  white  stuccoed 
cottages,  and  verandahs  peculiar  to  French  village  archi- 
tecture ;  all  signs  over  the  shop-doors  were  in  French, 
and  nearly  all  of  them  indicated  that  spirituous  liquors 
were  sold  there ;  the  native  stare  was  of  short  duration 
and  respectful,  instead  of  long  drawn  and  insolent,  as  it 
would  have  been  at  anv  canal  terminus  in  the  United 
States,  and  the  village  dogs  did  not  respond  to  whistles 
delivered  in  the  American  manner.  A  single  new  house 
with  Mansard  roof  had  intruded  itself  in  the  village,  but 
the  Cook  promptly  suggested  that  it  must  belong  to 
some  fugitive  American  statesman,  so  it  could  not  be 
considered  as  part  of  the  village  proper. 

At  this  suggestion  the  Vice  became  pensive  and  was 
presently  discovered  questioning  a  resident  as  to  the 
personal  appearance  of  certain  American  sojourners. 
His  curiosity  was  pardonable  as  he  had  been  conspicuous 
in  breaking  up  a  famous  metropolitan  Ring,  and  knew 
personally  some  of  its  fugitive  fragments. 


SIGNS   OF  DECADENCE. 


167 


No  factory  reared  its  horrid  front  aloft,  so  the  villago 
maidens  were  meek-eyed  and  healthy,  and  the  youn^ 
men  did  not  congregate  at  street  corners  with  hands  in 
pockets.  Two  or  three  score  of  men  stood  upon  the  walls 
of  the  final  lock,  to  look  at  the  boats,  but  they  displayed 
none  of  the  officious  curiosity  which  any  able-bodied 
American  citizen  would  have  considered  necessary  under 
like  circumstances.  To  the  Commodore,  the  Purser  and 
the  Cook  the  change  from  the  restless  activity  with 
which  they  were  familiar  was  inexpressibly  delightful, 
but  the  Vice  regarded  everything  with  cold  suspicion. 

"  The  natural  result  of  monarchical  rule,"  was  his  inces- 
sant comment  upon  whatever  he  saw.  "  There  is  water- 
power  enough  going  to  waste,"  said  he,  pointing  to  the 
rapids,  "  for  a  manufacturing  city  such  as  the  world  has 
never  seen.  Capital  would  be  attracted,  labor  would 
follow,  facilities  for  navigation  would  increase,  farmers 
would  have  a  home  market  for  their  produce,  real  estate 
would  increase  in  value,  and  local  politics  would  become 
a  science.  But  see  it  as  it  is!  Why,  I  doubt  if  it  has  a 
board  of  aldermen,  or  even  a  mayor !  " 

"  Then  it  is  Acadia  indeed,"  murmured  the  Purser, 
raising  his  head  from  a  sketch  he  had  hastily  made  of 
a  sweet-faced  girl  who  was  gazing  wonderingly  yet 
modestly  from  a  window. 

From  the  river  below  the  lock  the  expedition  saw 
the  foot  of  the  rapids,  and  near  them  a  ruined  fort.  A 
double  invitation  to  view  the  picturesque  was  not  to  be 


I 

1 

¥ 


^   i 


V     I 


••:  N., 


mm 


Q 
O 


A   RUINED   FORT. 


169 


declined,  so  every  one  paddled  up  as  far  as  the  rapids 
would  allow.  The  fort  bore  date  of  171 1,  and  tradition 
said  that  it  had  been  constructed  for  defence  against 
the  Indians,  in  the  davs  when  Canada  was  still  New 
France,  from  which  it  was  safe  to  infer  that  the  North 
American  savage  was  not  in  the  habit  of  rounding  rapids  by 
canal  when  he  disported  himself  in  his  light  canoe.  The 
work  had  been  stripped  to  its  bare  walls,  not  by  relic-hunt- 
ers but  by  searchers  after  seasoned  fuel,  and  its  water-wall 
had  fallen  in,  but  enough  remained  to  show  the  plan 
of  the  work.  The  Commodore  and  the  Purser  broiled  in 
the  sun  at  the  gateless  sally-port  and  endeavored  to 
reconstruct  the  work  in  the  interest  of  romance.  They 
filled  it  with  picturesque  men-at-arms,  gallant  officers, 
and  venerable  priests,  and  took  care  not  to  omit  the 
occasional  Indian  maiden,  while  the  Vfce  calculated  the 
cost  of  transforming  the  work  into  a  distillery,  and  the 
Cook,  who  had  climbed  to  a  sealed  loophole  overhead 
in  search  of  reflections  which  did  not  appear,  gently  led 
the  thoughts  of  the  romancers  back  to  the  real  by  an 
occasional  shower  of  partly  pulverized  mortar. 

It  presently  occurred  to  him,  however,  that  the  stock 
.  of  bread  was  running  low,  only  one  loaf  being  left  from 
the  supply  laid  in  beyond  the  line.  He  accordingly  made 
a  requisition  on  the  Purser  for  the  necessary  funds  and 
paddled  off  to  the  village.  In  a  few  moments  he  was 
seen  returning,  partly  concealed  behind  something  which 
he  had  placed  on  the  forward  deck.  As  the  bow  touched 
8 


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«  I 


KANUCK    BRKAD 


171 


the  sand  the  mysterious  object  was  seen  to  be  merely  a 
loaf  of  bread  beside  which,  for  the  sake  of  contrast,  the 
Cook  had  laid  the  remaining  loaf  of  the  United  States 
pattern. 

The  Vice  regarded  the  two  with  a  puzzled  air.  "  Wiiy," 
he  asked,  ''  should  forty  millions  of  people  living  in  a  free 
republic,  be  content  with  loaves  of  such  diminutive  size 


Two  Loaves— a  Contrast. 

when  the  subjects  of  a  despotic  monarchy  arc  provided 
with  bread  on  a  scale  so  trulv  magnificent?  " 

"  The  loaves  are  to  one  another  in  an  inverse  propor- 
tion to  the  population  which  they  represent,"  said  the 
Cook. 

In  quality  and  price,  this  loaf  compares  favorably  with 
that  of  the  American  baker,  but  in  size  and  shape  it  is 
unlike  anything  that  elsewhere  exists  under  the  same 
name.  Its  shape  is  that  of  a  cloven  mountain,  and  its 
size — well,  if  such  loaves  were  used  in  Judea  eighteen 
hundred  years  ago,  the  miracle  of  the  feeding  of  the  five 
thousand  would  not  seem  so  very  wonderful  after  all.  A 
single  loaf  materiallv  increased  the  draft  O'f  the  Cook's 
boat,  and  had  he  bought  four,  as  he  had  expected  to  do,  it 
would  have  been  necessary  to  have  chartered  a  store-ship. 


^ 


f    I 


•fl 


CANOEING   IN  KANUCKIA. 


J. 


'  t 


:V 


As  the  party  sat  in  the  shadow  of  one  of  the  water 
bastions  and  viewed  the  rapids  in  their  changing  forms 
but  changeless  beauty,  the  Vice  fell  into  gloomy  reverie. 

"  It's  always  so,"  said  he.  "  We've  paddled  through  a 
straight  cut  canal  for  ten  miles,  been  drenched  with  water 
and  wind,  jeered  by  mule-drivers,  and  in  French,  too, — 
loosened  the  skin  trom  our  faces,  caused  heaven  only 
knows  how  much  inward  profanity  among  lock-keepers, 
lost  a  whole  day  and  ten  miles  of  scenery,  and  all  because 
we  were  afraid  to  run  the  rapids,  which  would  have 
brought  us  here  in  an  hour.  It's  the  same  way  in  politics  ; 
caution  means  labor  and  trouble,  but  if  you  dash  ahead 
in  spite  of  every  thing  and  every  body,  you're  sure  to 
come  out  all  right.     The  Alderman  always  said — " 

*'  It  isn't  too  late  yet,"  interrupted  the  Commodore. 
"  I  am  so  desirous  of  seeing  some  one  run  those  rapids 
that  I  will  be  one  of  any  two  to  carry  your  boat  as  far  up 
the  stream  as  you  like,  if  you  will  run  down  in  her." 

"  Agreed  !  "  shouted  the  Vice,  **  but — "  here  he  pru- 
dently admitted  to  himself  the  defects  of  the  model  of 
/its  boat,  "  I  wonder  if  the  Cook  wouldn't  rather  do  it  in 
the  Cherub — you  will  find  it  far  the  easier  to  carry." 

*'  Certainly,"  replied  the  Cook  ;  "  besides,  she  is  far 
safer,  faster  and  more  manageable  than  your  craft.  She 
has  no  keel  to  catch  upon  a  rock  and  tip  one  over,  and 
her  peculiar  construction  makes  it  impossible  to  start  a 
leak,  no  matter  hov/  hard  you  may  strike  a  stone  with 
her."       . 


THE    RAPIDS. 


/J 


The  Cherub  was  promptly  unloaded  and  carried  up 
the  stream  half  a  mile,  when  the  Cook  seeing  an  almost 
unbroken  line  of  rocks  crossing  the  river,  stopped  her 
bearers.  He  then  divested  himself  of  all  clothing  except 
such  as  is  technically  denominated  "gents  underwear." 
The  boat  was  placed  in  the  water,  heading  up  stream,  and 
the  Cook  embarked,  bracing  his  back  against  the  amid- 
ship  t'iiwart,  and  his  knees  against  the  sides.  The  painter 
was  thrown  in,  and  he  started  to  paddle  out  into  the 
stream,  but  the  current  was  in  the  habit  of  working  its  own 
sweet  will  upon  floating  bodies,  and  it  promptly  signified 
as  much  to  the  Cook  by  whirling  him  around  so  rapidly 
that  the  force  of  rotary  motion  almost  deprived  him  of 
his  scalp  and  whiskers — his  helmet  he  had  thoughtfully 
left  ashore.  Then  the  boat  danced  merrily  along,  salut- 
ing each  inviting  rock  with  a  long  soft  caress,  yet  obeying 
the  paddle  with  an  alacrity  of  which  no  Chrysalid  canoe 
could  ever  be  capable.  The  time  occupied  by  the  trip 
seemed  so  great  to  the  Cook,  that  a  thousand  years  added 
or  subtracted  would  have  had  no  perceptible  influence 
upon  the  total ;  according  to  the  Commodore's  pulse, 
however,  (all  watches  having  stopped)  rather  less  than 
four  minutes  had  elapsed  since  the  start  when  the  Cook 
paddled  the  Cherub  up  to  the  smooth  beach  below  the 
rapid,  and  found  that  she  had  not  shipped  a  drop  of 
water,  nor  started,  in  striking  the  rocks,  anything  more 
important  than  varnish. 

The  four  sat  for  a  while  longer  under  the  shadow  of 


im 


II-' II 


M' 


*5 


il 


fi     I 


HIHI^IMI 


■inH 


A    HIGH   TEMPERATURE. 


175 


the  main  gateway,  and  then  proceeded  on  their  way  in 
order  to  reach  a  camping  ground  not  in  the  immediate 
vicinity  of  any  village. 

Upon   the   broad   basin  into  which   the   river   spread 
below  the  fort,  the  sun  shone  with  a  fierceness  which  set 
at   naught  the  vulgar  theory  that  solar  heat  decreases  as 
one  goes  northward.    The  voyagers  decided,  without  a  dis- 
senting voice,  that  the  isothermal  line  which  reached  this 
portion  of  Canada  was  that  of  the  Desert  of  Sahara,  and 
the  Vice,  whose  scientific  ideas  were  rather  van-ue.  su't- 
gested  that  it  had  probably  passed  through  several  blast- 
furnaces and  a  ratification  meeting  on  its  way  north.     A 
gentle   breeze  finally  came   to    the  relief  of    the    party, 
and  at  the  same  time  there  came  certain  of  the  natives  to 
inquire   about  the   speed,  etc.,  of  the   boats,  and  as  the 
river  at  this  point  was  very  wide,  and  the  canoeists  were 
not  averse  to  displaying  their  seamanship,  the  boats  were 
soon  doing  the  picturesque  to  the  delight  of  all  beholders. 
Suddenly,  however,  the  breeze  took  offence  at  something- 
and  vanished,  leaving  the  boats  a  mile  or  two  from  shore. 
Paddles  were  manfully  plied,  the  nearest  shade  upon  the 
banks  being  several  miles  away.    As  no  one  but  a  denizen 
of  the  abode  of  the  finally  impenitent  could  realize  what 
the  heat  of  that  afternoon   actually  was,  it  is  extremclv 
unlikely   that  the   tale  will   ever  be  told,  but  the  Purser 
solemnly  declares  unto  this  day  that  the  sleeve  of  his  blue 
flannel  shirt  Vv^as  scorched  by  the  sun. 

The   fresh   meat  purchased  at   the  end  of  the  canal 


Ml 


176 


CANOEING   IN   KANUCKIA. 


I-"" 


having  succumbed  to  the  heat,  the  expedition  went  out 
in  a  body,  on  making  camp,  in  search  of  animal  food. 
The  nearest  house  seemed  miles  away,  so  the  Vice  took 
to  his  favorite  pastime  of  trolling  for  pickerel,  the  Purser 
went  into  the  forest  with  the  Vice's  gun,  and  the  Commo- 
dore and  the  Cook  started,  with  boat-hooks,  to  secure 
bullfrogs  for  a  fricassee.  The  Vice  caught  nothing,  as 
men  universally  do  when  they  troll,  the  Purser  got  noth- 
ing but  a  bruised  shoulder,  while  the  Commodore  and  the 
Cook,  having  failed  to  secure  so  much  as  a  sinofle 
batrachian,  lost  what  little  character  they  had  for  per- 
severance under  difficulties,  and  swore  roundly  that  the 
French  inhabitants  had  hunted  the  frogs  till  thev  were 
too  shy  to  be  successfully  harpooned.  The  voyagers  fell 
back  upon  their  canned  provisions,  made  a  tolerably  satis- 
factory supper  and  straightway  engaged  in  a  discussion 
on  the  kinds  of  wood  availaolc  in  that  most  important 
branch  of  industry,  the  construction  of  canoes,  and  their 
accessories. 

American  white-cedar,  they  concluded,  is  undoubtedly 
the  best  of  all  woods  for  building  light  boats.  It  is  now 
exported  for  this  purpose  to  all  parts  of  the  world  where 
artistic  boat-building  is  practiced.  Its  structure  is  such 
that  a  blow  or  scrape,  such  as  boats  are  likely  to  receive, 
merely  indents  without  splintering  or  splitting.  It  is 
moreover  very  light.  It  has  no  special  beauty  of  grain 
but  takes  varnish  well  and  has  an  agreeable  color,  which 
improves  with  age. 


»1S) 


178 


CANOEING  IN   KANUCKIA. 


m 


^p 


^  %\ 


Oak  is  handsomer  in  appearance,  but  is  too  heavy  and 
splinters  badly  at  the  edges  when  exposed  to  wear  and 
tear.  It  is  usually  the  best  available  wood  for  keels  and 
timbers. 

Spanish  cedar  splits  too  easily  to  be  used  for  planking, 
but  makes  a  handsome  deck,  and  is  strong  enough  when 
properly  supported  by  carlines. 

Butternut  is  a  little  heavier  than  cedar,  but  is  some- 
what harder  and  tougher,  and  is  far  more  beautiful  in 
color  and  grain.  In  point  of  texture  and  toughness  there 
is  small  choice  bf.tween  the  two.  If  one  is  willing  to 
paddle  a  pound  or  two  of  additional  weight  for  the  sake 
of  appearances,  let  him  choose  butternut.  If  not,  white 
cedar  is  best.  Clear  butternut  can  be  had  in  lon^^er  and 
wider  strips  than  cedar. 

For  stem  and  stern  posts  hackmatack  is  given  the 
preference,  by  nearly  all  builders.  For  the  timbers, 
carlines,  and  interior  braces  of  all  sorts,  tough,  non- 
splitable  woods  are  used,  different  builders  having  differ- 
ent favorites. 

The  masts  technicallv  denominated  the  "  main  "  and 
*'  dandy,"  may  be  of  white-ash,  spruce  or  pine — the  last 
being  lightest  and  weakest.  They  should  be  carried 
up  without  any  taper,  a  short  distance  above  the  deck 
— say  three  feet  for  the  main  and  two  for  the  dandy. 
This  is  not  very  essential,  it  merely  makes  them  bend 
more  symmetrically  under  sail  pressure.  Ash  is  heavier 
than  spruce,  but  more  slender  and  graceful  spars  may  be 


MASTS  AND   RIGGING. 


179 


made  from  it,  owing  to  its  greiter  strength.  The  Com- 
modore having  tried  both,  rather  prefers  ash.  Some 
memberj  of  the  New  York  Club  have  used  bamboo  for 
masts  with  satisfactory  results ;  for  its  weight  it  is  cer- 
tainly the  strongest  of  spars,  and  in  appearance  it  is 
all  that  can  be  desired,  except  that  it  does  not  taper 
quite  enough  at  the  top  to  suit  a  fastidious  eye.  This 
objection  might  be  overcome  by  using  a  topmast  of 
pine  or  spruce. 

It  is  almost  always  convenient  to  have  the  masts  of  a 
canoe  jointed,  so  that   they  can  be  readily  stowed  be- 
low decks.     The  simplest  and  cheapest  way  is   to   place 
the  mast  so  that  it  shall  be  an  inch  and  a  quarter  or  less 
at  the  joint,  that  being  the  largest  regular  size  of  fishing- 
rod  ferrules.     Such  joints  have  been  fully  tested  and  are 
strong  enough.     The  device  known  as  the  "  slidine  eun- 
ter  "  is  a  brass  fitting  which  holds  the  main  topmast  and 
slides  up  and  down  the  mainmast,  operated  by  a  halyard. 
It   works  very  well   when  in  perfect  order,  but  is  apt  to 
give  trouble  when  the  parts  get  wet.     Moreover  it  neces- 
sitates a  clumsily  large  lower-mast,  since  this  part  must 
be  deeply  grooved  to  receive  the  topmast-halyard  over 
which  the  "  gunter  "  slides.     The  Vice  who  has  tried  the 
sliding  gunter  rig  has  decided  to  adopt  a  simple  nine-foot 
mast  with  a  mainsail  like  that   shown   in  the  illustration 
on  page  107,  and   a  ferrule  joint.     The  sail  runs  up  and 
down  on  rings  as  do  those  of  the  Red  Lakers,  and  hav- 
ing throat  and   peak  halyards  attached  to  the  gaff,  the 


f ) 


.''I 


4 


If 


m 


hi 


i8o 


CANOEING  IN  KANUCKIA. 


•f  If; 


peak  can  be  dropped  or  raised  without  lowering  the  sail. 
This  has  the  effect  of  reefing  and  shaking  out  without 
the  bother  of  tying  the  reef-points  shown  in  the  sketch 
referred  to,  on  the  lower  part  of  the  mainsail. 

The  Red  Lakers,  by  the  way,  are  reefed  by  means  of 
a  small  brass  S.  hook  carried  at  the  peak  of  each  sail. 
The  sail  is  lowered  away  and  this  hook  passed  through 
any  one  of  the  rings  on  which  it  runs.  When  hoisted 
again  the  sail  is  of  course  correspondingly  reduced  in  area. 

It  was  ten  o'clock  before  the  squadron  had  settled  all 
this  and  was  content  to  turn  in. 


mi 


XI. 


SEVERAL   OTHER   DAYS. 

THE  disgust  of  the  voyagers  on  the  next  morning, 
when  they  found  themselves  reduced  to  break- 
fasting on  bread  and  coffee,  was  provocative  of  vigorous 
paddling,  and  a  large  town  was  soon  reached.  The  voy- 
agers passed  en  route  a  small  Indian  camp,  in  which  were 
exhibited  some  of  the  positive  results  of  civilized  environ- 
ment, for  one  of  the  men  had  a  beard,  and  the  only  visible 
squaw  wore  an  apron  with  pockets.  As  the  town  was 
one  at  v/hich  the  expedition  expected  many  letters,  there 
was  a  movement  in  force  upon  the  post-office,  which  con- 
sisted of  two  cigar  boxes  upon  the  table  of  a  sitting-room  ; 
one  of  these  contained  letters  received,  and  the  other  mail 
matter  to  be  transmitted  ;  one  contained,  after  the  expe- 
dition had  received  its  letters,  a  single  postal  card,  and 
the  other,  when  the  voyagers  deposited  their  home  and 
business  correspondence,  was  so  full  that  the  pleasant  lady 
in  charge  was  visibly  affected  by  the  sudden  increase  of 
business.  There  were  several  streets  of  very  old  and 
very  quaint  cottages,  and  a  church,  externally  a  duplicate 
of  ev°ry  other  church  on  the  river,  and  containing  an  odd 
yet   touching   assortment   of  votive   offerings.      Among 


ii 


182 


CANOEING   IN   KANUCKIA. 


.•}; 


.  I '. 


ir  »,► 


:(!  r, 


i.  1.5 

II  „, 

.1-' 

!'*  1 

-'    [ 

_     1 

i  ■     1. 

1 1 ; 

i  ■ 

lit 

i# 

||«.  1 

If 

L 

Ji^ 

these  was  a  huge  model  of  a  full-rigged  ship  ;  this  swung 
aloft  from  the  centre  of  the  ceiling,  and  doubtless  kept 
nervous  worshippers  from  the  pews  directly  beneath  it. 
The  value  of  such  an  object  of  contemplation  must  be 
inestimable  for  the  adolescent  portion  of  the  congrega- 
tion, that  i.s  if  the  Acadian  fancy  is  as  much  given  over 
to  dreams  of  piratical  adventure  on  the  high  seas,  as  is 
that  of  American  youth. 

Three  women  were  upon  their  knees  in  the  church  ; 
two  were  utterly  oblivious  to  the  entrance  of  the  outland- 
ish foreign  quartette,  but  the  third  kept  alive  the  faith 
of  man  in  womanish  curiosity,  for  she  stared  at  the  party 
as  long  as  it  was  visible.  The  four  sailors  walked  around 
the  side  aisles  past  the  *'  Stations  of  the  Cross,"  more,  it 
must  be  admitted,  from  longings  artistic  rather  than  de- 
vout, and  were  about  to  leave  the  church,  when  two 
bright  looking  youths  of  seventeen  or  eighteen  entered 
the  organ  loft,  and  sang  several  hymns,  accompanying 
themselves  with  the  organ  which  was  presumably  blown 
by  a  third.  The  Vice  interviewed  them  and  asked  what 
portion  of  the  service  they  had  been  conducting,  and 
learned  that  they  had  been  singing  merely  for  amuse- 
ment. Fancy  two  healthy  young  Americans  going  into 
church  during  business  hours,  and  singing  hymns  for  pur- 
poses of  personal  diversion !  Their  associates  would 
promptly  cut  their  acquaintance,  their  employers  would 
discharge  them  for  laziness,  and  their  parents,  if  truly 
affectionate,  would   hasten  to  call  a  physician  skilled  in 


THE   RAILWAY    HOTEL. 


183 


treating  the  victims  of  mental  aberration.  The  quartette 
concluded  that  their  fond  imaginings  regarding  the  uses 
of  aerial  ships  had  been  at  fault.  Maritime  adventure 
can  have  no  place  in  tne  Acadian  mind. 

A    careful    survey    of  the    picturesque    little    hamlet 
showed   that   it   was  infested,  though  not  infected,  by  a 
railroad  ;  from  this  the  whole  village  shrunk  away,  so  that 
a  modern  "  Railway   Hotel,"  which   stood  near  the  sta- 
tion, stood  alone,  in  unrelieved  ugliness.     The  Vice,  with 
his  prejudice  against  every  thing  foreign,  insisted  upon 
the  expedition  dining  at  this  hotel,  because  it  reminded 
him  of  home,  and   within  half  an   hour  he   endured  the 
worst   meal   that    had   ever   been  set  before  him.     The 
Cook,  who  had  been  detailed  to  watch  the  boats  while  his 
associates  dined,  sank    into  a  peaceful   slumber   in   the 
Cherub,   and  became   an    object   of  interest   to   several 
natives  and  many  hundreds  of  flies.     The  former,  though 
somewhat  curious,  were  too  polite  to  arouse  the  sleeping 
watchman,  but  the  latter  being  evidently  summer  visitors 
from  the  States,  had  neither  conscience  nor  modesty,  so 
the   slumberer   awoke   and    devoted    some   moments  to 
drowsy  sympathy  for  the  defunct  Pharaoh  and  his  people 
who  suffered  under  the  seventh  plague.     Then  he  paced 
the  river-bank,  looking  about  for   the   picturesque,   and 
was  rewarded  by  a  glimpse  of  the   old,  old   story,  which 
went  down  the  river  road  between  a  bashful  young  man 
and  a  comely  maiden. 

Near  this  point  the  river  contained  several  beautiful 


'\m 


184 


CANOEING   IN   KANUCKIA. 


t"' 


h    i^ 


- 


MV 


WH:. 


islands,  and  to  one  of  these  the  squadron  made  its  way 
after  dinner.  The  distance  was  small — a  mere  matter  of 
five  miles — but  the  fact  that  it  had  to  be  traversed  by 
paddle  and  under  a  blazing  sun,  caused  the  trip  to 
seem  fully  long  enough  for  an  afternoon  voyage.  A  de- 
lightful camping  ground  was  finally  reached,  however;  a 
narrow  grassy  plateau  spreading  itself  under  a  belt  of 
thick  trees,  with  lovely  outlooks  up  and  down  the  river. 
It  was  the  Commodore's  tour  of  duty  for  forage,  and 
after  a  lesson  in  Canadian  French  from  the  Vice,  who  had 
it  at  second  hand  from  the  Alderman,  he  paddled  over  to 
the  mainland.  The  substance  of  his  instructions  was  that 
milk  instead  of  being  "  lait "  was  **  lat,"  sounding  the 
final  "T,"  also  that  the  final  "S"  was  in  most  cases 
sounded.     He  tried  the  nearest  house. 

"  Bon  jour,  Madame.  Avez  vous  du  lat,  k  vendre  ?" 
Glances  exchanged  among  the  members  of  the  household 
with  frequent  repetitions  of  the  word  "  lat." 

"  Comment,  M'sieu  ?  " 

The  Commodore  repeated  the  sentence.    Same  effect. 

*'  Ne  comprens  pas." 

Another  trial  with  some  changes  of  structure  and  pro- 
nunciation. 

"M'sieu,  we  no  speak  Anglais." 

The  Commodore  went  his  way  to  the  next  house,  half 
a  mile  distant,  and  protected  by  a  black  dog  of  great 
apparent  enterprise.     Interview  substantially  duplicated. 

At  the  third  house  the  discovery  was  made  that  the 


Vi 


THE   COMMODORE   GOES   FOR   MILK. 


185 


Alderman's  information  as  to  the  pronunciation  of  "  lait" 
was  erroneous. 

Pronouncing  the  word  in  usual  manner  he  was  readilv 
understood,  but  there  was   no   milk  to  be  had.     So  he 
paddled  over  to  the  island  again   and   approached   the 
somewhat  "swell  "  mansion  of  the  proprietor,  which  had 
been  shunned  in  the  first  instance  because  the  occupants 
of  such  mansions  not  infrequently  scorn  the  advances  of 
canoeists  in  the  direction  of  supplies.     Ascending  a  foot- 
path from   the  landing,  the  Commodore  found  himself 
before  a  square    brick  house  standing  in   the  midst  of 
forest  trees,  many  being  superb  specimens  of  spruce  and 
balsam,  which  sent  their  perfect  spires  of  green  sixty  or 
seventy  feet  upward.     The  underbrush  had  been  cleared 
away,  so  that  a  somewhat  broken  lawn  spread  from  the 
house  to  the  edge  of  the  bluff,  and  through  the  tree-trunks 
there  opened  an   expanse  of  rich   meadow-land   dotted 
with  cottages  crossed  by  lines  of  dark  coniferous  woods, 
and  backed  by  the  blue  Beloeil  range.     Lost  in  the  con- 
templation of  the  delicious  landscape,  the  Commodore 
was  for  a  time  merged  in  the  love  of  nature,  but  a  rude 
interruption  was  in  store  for  him.     No  sign  of  human  life 
had  been  visible  when  he  turned  his  back  upon  the  house 
and  became  absorbed  in  the  contemplation  of  the  beauti- 
ful, but  a  sudden  bark  rang  upon   the  air  and  was  in- 
stantly taken  up,  as  it  seemed  from  all  parts  of  the  island. 
The   case    of    James    Fitzjames    and    the   ambuscaded 
Highlanders  flashed  through  his  mind  as  a  parallel  one  : 


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187 


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"  Instant  through  copse  and  heath  arose 
bonnets  and  spears  and  bended  hows." 

He  turned  from  the  scene  which  the  Artist  lias  depicted 
and  beheld  what  is  shown  on  the  followinc;  pacre.  The 
apparent  relative  dimensions  of  himself  and  the  do^s  arc 
faithfully  preserved. 

On   they  came,  but  by  this  time  the  Commodorial 
soul  had  returned  from  its  .nesthetic  wanderinirs.     If  there 
is  one  thing  of  which  he  is  less  afraid  than  another,  it  is 
dogs.     Consequently  when  the  leader,  a  shaggy  brute  of 
great  external  ferocity,  reached  him,  he  remarked  in  a  low 
tone  of  voice,  "  One  moment,  old  chap.     You  are  mak- 
ing a  gr^at  mistake.     It  is  all  right.     I  am  going  to  the 
house  for  milk."     "  Major."  for  that  turned  out  to  be  his 
name,  accepted  the  explanation  with  perfect  courtesv  told 
his   followers  that   it  wasn't   the  fellow   he  thought,  and 
would  they  hush  their  noise,  and  so  all  fared  alon'^  to- 
gether  with  occasional  growls  from  still  suspicious  mem- 
bers of  the  cortege,  and  turned  the  corner  of  the  house, 
where    were  seen    two  seemly  maidens  of  the  peasant 
class,  sitting  on  a  verandah  with  their  needle-work. 

"  Bon  jour,  Mesdemoiselles,"  said  the  Commodore, 
raising  his  helmet.  "  Nor.s  sommes  camp6  la-bas,  et 
nous  avons  besoin  de  lait,  de  pain  et  de  bcurre."  The 
last  few  words  had  a  reassuring  Olendorfesque  sound, 
which,  as  it  were,  set  the  speaker  on  his  pins. 

The  girls  looked  at  one  another  doubtfully,  "  II  parle 
Allemand,  n'est  ce  pas,  Louise?"  said  one. 


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THE  COMMODORE   ESSAYS   FRENCH. 


189 


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glais." 


•'  Mais  non,"said  the  other,  "  Je  crois  que  c  est  I'An- 


The  Commodore  seated  himself  on  the  steps  and 
buried  his  head  in  his  hands.  One  of  the  dogs  whined 
and  poked  a  cold,  sympathetic  nose  against  his  cheek. 
It  presently  occurred  to  him  that  the  silence,  which  was 
becoming  embarrassing,  was  in  danger  of  being  broken  by 
the  irrepressible  laughter  of  the  young  women,  who  con- 
tinued their  work  with  mischievous  glances  at  their  dis- 
comfited  visitor.  The  Commodore  is  a  bashful  man,  and 
it  has  always  seemed  to  him  that  the  laughter  of  girls 
is  particularly  and  peculiarly  derisive.  However,  by  dint 
of  frequent  repetitions  of  -  pain  "  "  beurre"  and  "  lait," 
he  at  length  succeeded  in  making  himself  understood. 

The  two  girls  bestirred  themselves  to  procure  the 
desired  articles,  which  by  the  way  proved  to  be  of  excel- 
lent quality  and  of  absurdly  low  price.  Meanwhile  the 
dogs  had  become  so  friendly  as  to  be  troublesome,  and 
the  two  biggest  were  actually  fighting  for  the  privilege  of 
receiving  personal  attention. 

On  hearing  of  this  experience,  the  Purser,  who  is  very 
fond  of  dogs,  was  anxious  to  be  detailed  for  milk  at  once, 
and  the  Vice,  who  is, 

"  Steel  amid  the  din  of  arms 
And  wax  amid  the  fair," 

longed  to  air  his  French  in  connection  with  the  girls, 
whom  the  Commodore  represented  as  possessed  of  rare 
charms   and    engaging    manners.     It   was  evident  that 


190 


CANOEING   IN   KANUCKIA. 


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In  '^« 

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there  would  be  no  trouble  about  the  milk  detail  at  this 
camp.  Indeed  a  rivalry  sprang  up  between  the  Purser 
and  the  Vice  which  was  only  kept  within  bounds  by  the 
necessity  of  a  co-partnership,  one  being  as  hopelessly 
embarrassed  in  canine  society  as  was  the  other  in  that 
of  young  women.  It  followed  as  a  natural  result  that 
they  invariably  went  for  milk  in  company  and  were  a 
long  time  in  getting  it.  The  Vice's  French  was  culti- 
vated to  a  degree  which  left  him  without  a  rival  in  the 
fleet,  while  the  two  always  came  back  to  camp  with  a 
retinue  of  dogs  which  nearly  drove  the  Cook  crazy  by 
investigating  the  expeditionary  stores. 

On  the  grassy  plateau  before  mentioned,  the  four 
graceful  boats  lay  side  by  side,  and  in  them  as  the  fire 
burned  low,  the  four  voyagers  composed  themselves  to 
rest,  and  the  Cook  and  Purser  were  lulled  to  slumber  by 
the  tones  of  the  Vice  who  pointed  out  the  constellations, 
and  discoursed  learnedly  of  the  precession  of  the  equi- 
noxes. The  Commodore,  who  chanced  to  be  somewhat 
wakeful,  feigned  an  interest  in  astronomy,  which  he  had 
never  before  displayed,  and  evinced  such  an  appetite  for 
sidereal  nomenclature  that  he  presently  had  the  Vice  out 
of  bed,  so  to  speak,  and  shiveringly  endeavoring  to  dis- 
cover certain  hypothetical  stars  whose  locality  the  Com- 
modore carefully  described,  but  which  could  not  be  seen 
from  the  recumbent  position  occupied  by  his  companion. 
Having  for  a  sufficient  space  indulged  in  this  justifiable 
revenge  for  certain  insubordinate  acts  on  the  part  of  the 


t  : 


THE   COOK   GOKS   TO   CHURCH. 


191 


n 
1. 
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e 


Vice,  the  Commodore  suddenly  became  sleepy,  and  left 
the  astronomer  to  discover  the  ruse  at  his  leisure. 

The  next  day  was  Sunday  and  sunny,  and  a  canvass 
of  commanders  showed  that  the  squadron  was  Sabbata- 
rian to  a  degree  which  would  almost  satisfy  a  Pharisee. 
This  feeling  was  so  strong  in  the  Vice,  whose  day  it  was 
to  be  scullion,  that  he  volunteered  to  leave  until  Monday 
all  dishes  needing  washing,  but  the  Purser,  who  succeeded 
liim  with  the  dish-cloth,  declined  to  exact  any  such  ex- 
treme test  of  the  Vice's  fidelity  to  the  fourth  command- 
ment.  A  suggestion,  by  the  Cook,  that  the  officers 
should  attend  divine  service  in  a  body,  was  voted  down, 
on  the  ground,  that  the  nearest  church,  whose  spire  was 
plainly  visible  down  the  river,  was  distant  more  than  a 
Sabbath  day  journey.  (N.  B.  There  was  no  wind,  and  to 
paddle  back  from  church  would  be  to  paddle  against  the 
current.)  But  the  Cook  was  determined  to  go  to  church. 
He  shaved  himself,  sponged  his  uniform  into  some  sem- 
blance of  neatness,  oiled  his  shoes  until  they  lost  some  of 
their  rusty  look,  emptied  the  baggy  breast-pockets  of  his 
shirt,  unloaded  his  boat,  and  sponged  out  the  inside. 
Then  he  washed  and  smoothed  a  white  handkerchief,  the 
latter  operation  being  performed  by  folding  the  kerchief, 
"four  double,"  placing  it  between  two  folds  of  a  sail,  and 
sitting  determinedly  upon  it  for  the  space  of  half  an  hour. 
Then  the  Cook  carefully  disposed  the  handkerchief  in  his 
pocket,  so  that  some  inches  of  white  corner  should  show 
against  the  dark  blue  of  his  shirt ;  he  bade  his  slothful 


i 


I' 

ir 


192 


CANOEING    IN    KANUCKIA. 


companions  a  reproachful  farewell,  shoved  his  boat  from 
shore,  and  started  for  the  sanctuary.  The  distance  was 
at  least  five  miles,  the  sun  very  hot,  and  the  hour  uncer- 
tain, but  re<;arding  the  latter  the  Cook  had  some  experi- 
ence in  guessing  time  rudely  by  the  apparent  altitude  of 
the  sun,  so  he  paddled  briskly  along,  and  though  he  per- 
spired freely,  the  fact  led  him  to  compare  himself,  with 
considerable  satisfaction,  with  the  earlv  American  settlers 
who  endured  so  much  discomfort  rather  than  remain 
away  from  church,  That  he  had  no  prayer-book,  and 
was  rather  unfamiliar  with  the  Mass  except  as  a  verbal 
accompaniment  to  some  of  his  favorite  music,  did  not 
distress  him  greatly,  for  in  truth  he  was  not  as  intent 
upon  worship  as  he  might  have  been.  He  had  gone  to 
church  in  French-American  settlements  in  other  days, 
and  had  seen  how  the  worshippers  cast  off  the  dingy 
garments  of  the  farm  and  shop,  and  appeared  in  bright 
and  costly  raiment,  so  the  Cook  was  now  going  to  church 
principally  in  search  of  the  picturesque.  At  the  end  of 
half  an  hour's  paddling  he  saw  that  opposite  the  church 
he  was  aiming  for  there  was  another,  which  had  been 
hitherto  hidden  by  the  foliage  upon  a  small  island.  The 
sacred  edifices,  with  their  dependent  villages,  seemed  to 
be  of  equal  size,  and  the  Cook  was  distraught  with  uncer- 
tainty as  to  which  to  visit.  Then  along  the  road  of  one 
bank  he  saw  many  vehicles  passing  at  the  trot  and  full  of 
people.  Couldn't  be? — yes,  it  was  true — that  the  service 
at  one  church  was  over.    The  Cook  hastily  took  a  racing 


THE   COOK    RICTUKNS. 


193 


stroke,  and  made  for  the  other  church,  wliich  was  still  a 
mile  away,  but  suddenly  a  procession  of  carriaj^es  ap- 
peared from  that  direction.  The  Cook  dubiously  paused 
in  mid-stream,  endeavored  to  estimate  the  two  lines  of 
vehicles  to  ascertain  which  was  most  promising;  then  he 
ran  his  boat  ashore  and  scrambled  up  the  bank.  .A  bram- 
ble claimed  his  handkerchief,  but  he  ditl  not  pause  to 
contest  the  claim  ;  he  dashed  across  the  dusty  road, 
seated  himself  on  the  top-rail  of  a  fence,  and  rij^idly  in- 
spected the  occupants  of  the  vehicles  until  of  vehicles 
there  were  no  more.  Then  with  a  si^h  he  descended 
from  his  perch  and  started  to  paddle  back,  against  the 
current,  to  his  camp  and  the  hungry  men  for  whom  he 
had  to  prepare  dinner.  Even  his  small  measure  of  Sab- 
batarian virtue  had  its  reward,  however,  for  just  then 
there  came  along  a  tug  towing  a  barge  load  of  lumber ; 
under  its  shady  side  the  Cook  found  a  convenient  place 
to  tie  his  own  boat,  while  from  the  cabin-window  of  the 
barge,  the  Captain's  black-eyed,  black-haired  wife,  leaned 
and,  taking  the  Cook  for  an  innocent  scull-racer  from 
Montreal,  warned  him  impressively  against  "  the  cheats, 
the  hogs  of  Yankees,"  who  would  make  his  life  miserable 
if  he  went  on  to  the  States. 

On  reaching  camp  the  Cook  found  the  Commodore 
and  the  Vice  engaged  in  varnishing  their  somewhat  tar- 
nished boats,  one  using  brown  shellac,  and  the  other, 
coach  varnish  of  the  costliest  description. 

*'  Shellac,"   the  Commodore  was  saying,  **  is  certainly 
9 


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194 


CANOEING  IN   KANUCKIA. 


inferior  to  your  varnish  in  beauty  of  finish,  but  it  dries  in 
fifteen  minutes,  and  stands  water,  for  all  that  I  can  see, 
quite  as  well." 

The  Vice  admitted  disappointment  in  that  the  var- 
nish which  he  had  been  at  sucii  pains  to  procure,  turned  a 
bluish-white  color,  when  exposed  to  wet,  recovering  its 
lustre,  however,  on  drying.  This  was  certainly  an  ob- 
jectionable feature,  and  marred  the  complexion  of  the 
Rochefort  in  a  way  that  was  highly  exasperating  to  her 
owner,  especially  when  his  companions  jeered  him  on  the 
number  of  coats  with  which  he  had  covered  his  boat. 

"  Look  at  my  varnish,"  said  the  Cook  finally  after  the 
others  had  somewhat  exhausted  the  topic.  "  It  is  not 
shellac,  neither  is  it  coach  varnish,  yet  the  Cherub  is 
arrayed  in  a  coat  which  retains  its  lustre  better  than 
either  of  yours." 

"What  is  it?" 

*'  Even  '  Pellucidite.*  I  know  not  the  process  whereby 
the  lac  is  dissolved,  which  forms  its  basis,  but  it  stands 
water  better  than  any  other  that  I  know  of,  and  is  no 
more  expensive  than  the  ordinary  kinds." 

In  fact  after  duly  weighing  the  matter,  the  cruisers 
concluded  that  Pellucidite  is  the  best  varnish  known  to 
them  for  general  use  on  canoes.  It  appears  to  be  less 
affected  by  constant  exposure  than  any  other  that  they 
have  tried. 

"Varnishing,"  said  the  Vice,  as  he  lay  in  the  shade 
and  contemplated  the  Rochefort  glittering  in  the  sun,  "  is 


I  ll\ 


HIGHER   CULTURE. 


195 


perhaps  the  most  ennobling  way  for  a  canoeist  to  spend 
his  time  after  he  has  received  liis  boat  from  the  builder. 
Every  coat  you  put  on  adds  so  much  to  her  beauty.  I 
believe  I've  gone  over  my  boat  in  parts  thirteen  times." 

"  That's  one  thing  that  I  don't  like  about  a  Chrys- 
alid,"  said  the  Commodore.  "  Half  )our  original  outlay 
goes  for  fittings  which  it  is  much  better  fun  to  make 
yourself,  and  vou  have  no  recourse  but  to  varnish  and 
re- varnish.  Now  you  get  a  Red  Laker  clear  fore  and  aft — 
excepting  two  and  a  half  feet  of  decking,  at  bow  and 
stern,  and  you  go  to  work  and  contrive  and  experiment  in 
a  manner  highly  stimulating  to  a  properly  organized  mind, 
until  you  get  her  decked  or  covered  over  with  a  remov- 
able covering  of  wood  or  water-proof  cloth,  and  rigged 
to  suit  you.  I  admit,  though,  that  some  people  would 
rather  pay  more  money  and  have  less  tinkering  to  do. 
Nevertheless  I  hold  that  tinkering  is  essentially  a  higher 
order  of  intellectual  employment  than  is  mere  varnishing, 
admirable  as  that  mav  be  when  used  in  moderation." 

"  There  is  enough  to  do  in  all  conscience,"  replied  the 
Vice,  "  about  a  Chrysalid.  Look  at  my  hatches.  They 
consumed  an  enormous  amount  of  brain  force  in  the  pre- 
paration." 

As  has  been  already  stated,  the  Chrysalid  boats  have 
rather  more  than  four  feet  of  bow  and  stern  devoted  to 
water-tight  compartments,  which  of  course  occupy  a  great 
deal  of  space,  but  are  extremely  useful  in  case  of  accident. 
These  spaces  the  Vice  had  made  available  for  light  arti- 


if- 

If 

i 

if 


196 


CANOEING   IN   KANL'CKIA. 


cles,  such  as  extra  clothing,  etc.,  by  cutting  hatchways  in 
his  deck,  and  fastening  them  down  by  means  of  thumb- 
screws, the  seams  being  rendered  water-tight  b)'  strips  of 
india  rubber  used  as  packing.  Red  Lakers,  on  the  con- 
trary, have  all  the  room  they  want,  but  their  water-tight 
compartments,  if  tliey  have  any,  arc  only  large  enough 
for  the  purpose  of  flotation.  Their  owners  therefore  are 
fain  to  be  content  with  water-proof  bags  or  sheets  for 
the  protection  of  their  haberdashery. 

The  charms  of  the  natural  scenery  about  the  i;:land 
finally  lured  the  Vice  away  from  the  annotations  which  he 
was  preparing  for  a  new  edition  of"  Jefferson's  Manual," 
and  he  went  with  the  Cook  to  explore  a  beautiful  creek 
which  emptied  opposite  the  camp.  Its  charms  were 
manv,  and  its  ways  as  devious  as  those  of  a  woman  about 
whom  romancers  write,  so  the  couple  followed  it  as  a 
matter  of  course,  until  the  declining  sun  warned  them  to 
return  to  their  camp,  but  as  they  turned  their  boats' 
heads  homeward  they  paddled  only  with  leisurely  strokes, 
so  loth  were  they  to  leave  the  beautiful  alternations  of 
sunny  hillside  and  shady  grove,  .«olitary  giants  of  trees, 
and  thickets  full  of  birds,  mats  of  lily  pads,  and  bars 
covered  with  just  water  enough  to  enhance  the  brilliancy 
of  their  shining  sands.  The  Cook  heaved  a  deep  sigh, 
and  said, 

•*  What  a  pity  that  this  fair  spot  is  where  it  is,  among 
a  set  of  peasants  who  are  blind  to  its  true  value." 

"  Indeed  it  is,"  said  the  Vice.     **  There  never  was  a 


INUUSTKIAI.   DKVKI.OPMENT. 


197 


finer  bit  of  ground  for  a  beer  jijarden,  and  such  a  place 
would  call  for  a  brewery  ;  this,  in  turn,  wouUl  brin;^  out  an 
opposition  establishment,  and  malt  and  hops  would  look 
up,  while  coopers  would  find  ste  uly  employment." 

•*  Mercy !  "  murmured  the  Cook  imploriiu^l)-,  "  mercy  !" 
"  Or,"  continued  the  Vice,  "  it  would  make  a  beauti- 
ful park  ;  not  lar^re  to  be  sure,  but  there  is  enoui^h  forest- 
land  to  clear,  and  enough  bare  land  to  plant  with  forest 
trees,  to  occupy  a  great  many  voters  along  about  election 
time.  Then  the  grades  are  such  that  the  roads  could  be 
constructed  only  by  an  immense  amount  of  work,  and  as 
there's  no  stone  near  by,  the  contract  for  road-filling 
would  amount  to  a  handsome  thing.  Properly  managed, 
such  a  park  would  hold  a  party  together  for  twenty 
years,  unless  some  set  of  old  fogies  happened  to  impose 
a  landscape  gardener  and  architect  upon  the  commis- 
sioners." 

The  Cook  made  haste  to  quit  the  creek  and  return  to 
camp,  and  that  same  evening  he  experienced  a  severe 
bilious  attack.  As  the  Purser  was  already  ill  from  a 
surfeit  of  rice  and  maple  syrup  at  dinner,  and  the  Vice 
was  rapidly  succumbing  to  the  same  viands,  the  Commo- 
dore charged  himself  with  preparing  a  supper  which 
should  have  for  its  principal  feature  an  entirely  new  dish 
— to  wit,  fried  frogs'  legs.  He  had  devised  a  beautiful 
method  of  taking  the  musical  batrachians.  He  baited  a 
very  fine  fish-hook  with  a  bit  of  red  flannel  and  affixed  it 
to  an  eighty-foot  trout-line.     Then  joining  a  fourteen  foot 


!r 


198 


CANOEING  IN   KANUCKIA. 


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rod  he  walked  along  the  shady  shore,  and  cast  his  line. 
Should  the  fisher  for  trout  sneer  at  such  outlandish  fish- 
ing, and  pot-fishing  at  that,  he  should  know  that  to  catch 
a  bull-frog  with  hook  and  line  requires  a  better  eye  and 
more  skillful  hand  than  are  sufficient  to  successful  trout- 
fishing.  The  frog  never  *'  rises  "  to  the  bait;  the  latter 
must  be  let  gently  down  before  his  eyes  and  nose,  and 
then,  as  he  leisurely  opens  his  jaws,  be  dropped  into  his 
mouth.  The  slightest  breath  of  wind,  or  tremor  of  arm, 
causes  the  bait  to  graze  the  cheek  of  the  game,  and  then 
an  angry  foot  is  lifted  to  brush  it  away,  and  a  goggle  eye 
rolls  back  reproachfully  at  the  disturber.  When  the  bait  is 
taken,  the  frog  seems  to  realize  but  slowly  that  anything 
unusual  has  occurred,  and  the  sportsman  is  likely  to 
accuse  him  of  lacking  the  proper  spirit  of  a  game  fish  (or 
beast,  or  bird,  whichever  he  may  please  to  call  it),  but 
when  the  truth  dawns  upon  the  frog's  mind  he  gives  a  leap, 
to  view  which  would  drive  a  kangaroo  into  mortifica- 
tion and  suicide,  and  then  goes  for  deep  water  with  an 
alacrity  which  causes  the  reel  to  buzz  merrily.  Having 
tested  the  length  of  the  line,  however,  his  method  changes 
to  that  of  a  goat,  and  he  pulls  stubbornly  in  a  single  di- 
rection while  the  sportsman  reels  him  in.  The  Commo- 
dore illustrated  this  operation  but  once  however,  for  after 
landing  his  first  frog  he  was  unable  to  find  another  to  try 
his  wiles  upon.  A  few  moments  before,  the  creatures 
sat  numerously  along  the  water's  edge,  blankly  blinking, 
and  as  reserved  and  unsympathetic  as  a  body  of  office- 


LIBERTE,   EGALITE,   FRATERNITE. 


199 


holders  at  a  civil  service  reform  meeting ;  the  spectacle 
of  the  suspension  of  one  of  their  own  number,  however, 
was  one  which  they  were  quick  to  see  and  take  warning  by. 

Later  in  the  evening  the  quartette  received  a  call  from 
a  fine  looking  old  farmer  and  his  wife,  both  arriving  in  one 
of  those  peculiarly  rotten  old  skiffs  which,  when  one  sees 
them  in  use,  seem  strong  arguments  in  favor  of  a  special 
Providence  interposing  to  protect  human  life.  The  lady 
was  curious  to  see  the  culinary  outfit  of  the  party,  while 
her  husband  led  conversation  slowly  but  surely  toward 
the  subject  of  the  late  war  in  the  States.  When  he 
learned  that  some  of  the  party  had  seen  military  service, 
he  manifested  great  satisfaction,  and  told  of  his  own  ex- 
periences, which  the  military  and  political  exigencies  of 
France  had  caused  to  be  of  varied  but  stirring  nature. 
The  Vice  listened  with  a  sympathy  born  of  his  recollec- 
tions of  the  blockade-running  service,  but  when  he  learned 
that  the  old  fellow,  when  a  soldier,  had  once  fraternized 
with  the  revolutionists  and  fought  beside  them  behind  a 
barricade,  he  shouted,  '•  Libert^,  Egalit^,  Fraternity," 
and  tumultously  embraced  the  grizzly  old  warrior  in  true 
French  fashion. 

The  next  morning  found  the  expedition  still  in  camp 
upon  the  island,  and  not  caring  to  depart.  Scenery  so 
diversified  it  had  not  been  the  fortune  of  any  of  the  party 
to  have  seen  elsewhere.  Every  hour  of  the  day  re- 
vealed some  new  beauty,  and  every  change  of  light  dis- 
covered new  charms  in  those  which  had  been  seen  before. 


I 


i 


200 


CANOEING   IN   KANUCKTA. 


The  Cook,  who  had  become  so  enamored  of  the  view 
that  he  occasionally  forgot  his  oflFicial  duties,  arose  at 
dawn  one  morning  to  enjoy  the  scene  by  sunrise.  The 
air  was  chilly,  so  he  kindled  his  fire  and  soon  had  a  fine 
bed  of  coals  behind  which  he  stretched  himself,  with  his 
face  to  the  east.  The  dawn  had  doffed  its  bluish-grey 
night-robe  and  was  putting  on  a  morning-dress  of  soft 
pink,  but  doing  it  as  leisurely  as  if  this  were  not  an  age 
of  action,  and  as  if  time  were  not  money.  Then  its  com- 
plexion slowly  but  steadily  brightened  under  the  influence 
of  atmosphere  unpolluted  by  factory  chimney,  and  undis- 
turbed by  rumbling  omnibus  or  rattling  milk-wagon.  It 
glanced  kindly  down  into  the  farmer's  barnyard,  and  re- 
ceived murmuring  acknowledgments  from  the  cattle  and 
fowls  ;  it  peered  between  the  young  trees  on  the  steep 
bank  of  the  opposite  shore,  and  each  of  them  seemed  to 
stand  a  little  straighter  than  before,  while  each  leaf 
gazed  down  into  the  watery  mirror  beneath  and  made  its 
most  elaborate  toilet.  The  river  saw  it  coming,  and, 
ashamed  of  its  own  leaden  complexion,  hastened  to  throw 
over  its  face  a  misty  veil  which  should  prevent  too  close 
a  gaze  until  the  river's  only  valet  should  arise  from  his 
couch  behind  the  dawn,  and  brighten  the  heavy  coun- 
tenance. The  birds  greeted  cheerily  the  acquaintance 
who  came  every  day,  and  whose  only  fault  was  that  it 
never  remained  long  enough ;  the  tiny  blossoms  beneath 
the  trees  began  to  peer  forth  at  it ;  a  million  daisies  turned 
their  yellow  eyes  toward  it,  and  with  each  new  attention 


CONVERSATION  OF  FORCE. 


201 


bestowed  it  blushed  more  and  more.  It  sent  the  politest 
of  zephyrs  to  beg  the  river  to  remove  its  vail ;  it  lavished 
its  own  charms  upon  the  river  until  the  stream  seemed  to 
have  emerged  suddenly  from  the  fountain  of  youth  ;  the 
most  subtle  and  delicious  perfumes  diffused  themselves 
every  where,  and  the  Cook  breathed  them  in  with  a  feel- 
ing that  he  was  absorbing  Nature's  own  sweet  self.  Then 
there  floated  through  the  air  an  odor  more  pronounced 
and  less  fragrant,  and  the  Cook  discovered  that  a  large 
fold  of  one  of  his  baggy  trouser  legs  had  succumbed  to 
the  attentions  of  the  neighboring  fire,  and  disappeared 
like  the  baseless  fabric  of  a  vision  and  left  but  a  ragr 
behind.  Just  then  the  Purser,  who  at  home  was  a  phi- 
losopher as  well  as  an  artist,  emerged  yawning  from  his 
couch  and  proceeded  to  the  river  and  his  ablutions. 

"  Purser,"  said  the  Cook ;  "  you  believe  in  the  conser- 
vation of  force  ;  tell  me  now,  I  pray  you,  in  what  potent 
form  the  lost  fabric  of  my  trouser  leg  will  reapp;iar  ?  " 

'*  In  a  tailor's  bill,"  replied  the  Purser,  and  the  Cook, 
a  wiser  and  a  sadder  man,  sauntered  off  to  fill  the  ex- 
peditionary coffee-pot. 

"  The  squadron,"  remarked  the  Commodore,  as  he 
drained  his  second  pint  of  coffee  and  laid  aside  his  emp- 
tied plate,  "  will  now  prepare  itself  for  the  reception  of 
a  plain  but  startling  statement.  I  call  upon  you  all  to 
bear  witness  that  I  did  not  in  the  least  discourage  the 
little  ebullition  on  the  part  of  the  Cook  which  led  him  to 
run  the  rapids  at  the  fort  through  the  humiliating  device 


202 


CANOEING  IN   KANUCKIA. 


of  getting  his  boat  car  i'^d  up  stream,  so  that  he  could 
float  down.  I  wish  now  to  inform  the  fleet  that  real 
rapids  are  before  us.  (Sensation,  the  squadron  well 
knowing  that  naught  in  the  nature  of  rapids  intervened 
between  them  and  the  St.  Lawrence.)  You  all  know,  by 
report  at  least,  that  the  river  a  few  miles  below  is 
crossed  by  a  railway  bridge.  This  railway  traverses  a 
rough  section  of  country  and  shortly  touches  the  head- 
waters of  a  wild  river  where  they  break  from  one  of  the 
largest  of  our  mountain  lakes.  Over  this  road  I  have 
secured  transportation^  for  the  fleet,  and  in  two  days  at 
the  latest  I  hope  that  the  "  Becky  Sharp  "  will  show  the 
expedition  the  way  down  the  "  Horse  Race  "  at  Lake 
End.  The  stream  to  which  I  refer  falls  into  a  navigable 
river  which  in  its  turn  joins  the  St.  Lawrence  within  easy 
reach  of  transportation  to  New  York.  I  have  prudently 
kept  this  contemplated  change  of  plan  to  myself  until  I 
could  be  reasonably  assured  of  its  feasibility.  The 
letters  received  at  the  fort  gave  me  the  desired  informa- 
tion, and  I  now  submit  my  proposition  to  the  fleet." 

"  We  don't  want  to  reach  anywhere,"  said  the  Purser. 
"  Wherever  we  are  is  paradise." 

••  No,  we  don't  want  to  reach  any  where,"  said  the 
Vice.  "  We  must  in  some  way  distinguish  ourselves 
from  the  tramps  to  whom  we  outwardly  bear  so  faithful 
a  resemblance.  I'm  in  no  hurry  ;  my  canvass  for  the  fall 
elections  don't  begin  for  a  month.  Besides,  on  expedi- 
tions like  this  I  believe,  with  the  Alderman — " 


MAKING  ANOTHER  START. 


203 


sr. 


I- 


*'  Wherever  we  are  may  be  paradise,"  remarked  the 
Ciok,  "but  I  never  heard  of  manna  being  found  except 
in  the  wilderness,  and  in  my  official  capacity  I  would 
state  that  the  manna  of  this  expedition  is  reduced  to  one 
pair  of  frogs'-legs,  and  that  these,  having  been  gathered 
on  the  Sabbath,  are,  in  short,  spoiled." 

Immediately  every  man  began  to  stow  his  boat,  and 
in  a  short  time  the  expedition  was  paddling  over  the  line 
of  the  Cook's  Sabbath-day  journey.  At  the  first  village 
touched  by  the  squadron  the  Purser,  who  went  ashore  for 
stores,  discovered  that  in  spite  of  the  distance  from  great 
centres  of  thought,  the  rights  of  woman  had  gained  full 
recognition.  The  store  was  managed  by  a  woman,  who 
left  a  loom  to  wait  upon  the  customer,  while  her  husband 
smoked  calmly  in  his  chair  and  exhibited  no  sign  of  dis- 
approval. 

Nor  were  there  lacking  sufficient  indications  of  the 
universal  brotherhood  of  man.  The  village  was  as  desti- 
tute of  shade-trees  as  if  it  had  been  for  years  under  the 
charge  of  a  New  Jersey  road-board,  and  all  forest  trees 
had  been  as  carefully  removed  from  the  broad  expanse  of 
farming  land  as  if  they  had  been  noxious  weeds.  A 
stone  pier  which  extended  a  little  way  into  the  river  had 
cracked  and  settled  as  thoroughly  as  it  could  have  done 
under  the  fostering  care*  of  a  dock  commission,  and  some 
people  living  in  a  house  close  to  a  large  stagnant  pool 
bewailed,  as  a  direct  visitation  of  Providence,  the  serious 
illness  of  a  member  of  their  family. 


i) 


1*1 


204 


CANOEING   IN    KANUCKIA. 


At  this  point  the  expedition  admitted  the  advisability 
of  obtaining  from  mid-stream  ail  water  for  drinking  and 
culinary  purposes.  They  saw  numerous  small  floats,  ex- 
tending fifty  or  more  feet  into  the  river,  and  at  the  end 
of  each  of  these,  (the  day  being  Monday)  bent  a  woman 
over  a  washtub,  while  at  the  landward  end  of  the  float  a 
fire  of  driftwood  burned  under  a  kettle,  and  sturdy 
daughters  of  the  family  were  engaged  in  tending  the  fire, 
wringing  the  clothes  and  hanging  them  on  the  bushes  to 
dry.  The  beautiful  simplicity  of  all  these  arrangements 
so  impressed  the  Vice,  that  no  sooner  had  the  expedition 
camped  on  a  verdant  point  than  he  remarked  that  he  did 
not  see  whv  men  should  not  wash  as  well  as  women,  and 
extracting  some  articles  of  apparel  from  their  hiding 
place,  he  shortly  presented  the  appearance  depicted  on 
the  following  page,  and  now  and  then  expressed  his  sur- 
prise that  the  fleet  was  not  as  much  interested  in  watching 
his  proceedings  as  it  had  been  in  those  of  the  Canadian 
blanchisscuses  along  the  water  side. 

It  had  needed  but  the  stimulus  of  action  to  make  the 
squadron  forget  its  lotus-life  at  the  island  where  it  seemed 
always  afternoon,  and  around  the  evening  fire  a  health- 
ful reaction  set  in  favor  of  rapids  and  the  contemplated 
change  of  programme. 


» I' 


i  ' 


I '     I 


l:; 


\9 

llf 


XII. 


A    CHANGE    OF    SCENE. 

AFTER  breakfast  the  Commodore  announced  that 
as  nearly  as  he  could  estimate  the  town  of  St. 
Ursus  was  only  about  one  hour's  run  from  the  camp, and 
that  thence  the  squadron  was  to  be  shipped  across  coun- 
try, to  Lake  End,  a  freight  train  being  due  about  the  mid- 
dle of  the  morning,  and  a  passenger  train  following  shortly 
afternoon.  With  light  hearts  the  squadron  paddled  down 
a  lovely  stretch  of  rivej^  past  one  or  two  '*  swell  "  houses 
at  which  the  Vice  looked  askance,  as  the  probable  abodes 
of  an  *'  effete  aristocracy."  Two  ladies,  however,  were 
encountered  out  rowing  in  a  boat,  and  as  they  gave  pleas- 
ant greeting  to  the  Vice  who  happened  to  pass  nearest 
them,  his  opinions  underwent  a  marked  change,  and  he 
expressed  himself  as  not  averse  to  associating  with  peer- 
esses in  their  own  right, as  he  declared  these  undoubtedly 
were. 

In  due  time  the  bridge  was  reached  ;  the  little  station 
at  one  end  thereof  was  enlivened  for  a  time  by  the  pres- 
ence of  four  canoes  and  their  owners,  the  station-master 
showed  a  Montreal  paper  only  a  few  hours  old,  the 
freight  train  thundered  up  and  away  bearing  the  most 


DOWN   THE   RACE. 


207 


important  part  of  the  command,  and  after  two  or  three 
hours  of  dining  and  loafing  about,  the  four  in  erior  beings 
followed  in  a  passenger  car.  Thence  an  hour  later  they 
emerged  and  stood  upon  the  platform  at  Lake  End,  gaz- 
infT  southward  through  a  rugged  mountain  gateway  which 
closed  in  steeply  on  the  dark  blue  waters. 

It  was  but  a  few  minutes  work  to  secure  the  services 
of  a  wagoner,  who,  for  fifty  cents,  transported  the  four 
canoes  one  by  one  to  the  water's  edge  and  deposited 
them  ready  for  launching.  By  mid-afternoon  the  Purser 
and  Cook  had  bought  a  few  necessary  supplies  and  the 
Commodore  and  Vice  had  reconnoitered  the  dam  and 
scanned  the  rapids  below,  down  which  it  was  intended  to 
run  before  sunset. 

Very  quickly  the  news  spread  through  the  little  town 
that  four  Yankees  were  going  down  the  Race,  and  by  the 
time  all  was  ready  for  passing  the  boats  over  a  practicable 
part  of  the  dam,  the  whole  population,  male  and  female, 
including  summer  boarders  in  the  bewildering  toilettes 
of  the  period,  were  ranged  along  the  banks,  with  the 
exception  of  those  who  came  to  lend  a  hand,  and  a  squad 
headed  by  the  local  hotel-keeper,  who  strove  to  dissuade 
the  party  from  what  he  represented  as  a  rash  venture. 
The  hotel-keeper  in  fact  was  very  kind,  offering  to  pro- 
vide good  rooms  over  night  and  send  the  boats  round  the 
Race  in  a  wagon  in  the  morning.  But  the  white  water 
was  all  the  while  roaring  its  invitation  and  drowning  his 
arguments,  and   though   a  witness  was  finally  brought 


iif 


I 


i  I 


|i 


it 


!f^ 


.»; 


^If 


ii\ 


Rii 


8  'u ,. 


208 


CANOKING    IN    KAM  CKIA. 


who,  having  only  one  leg,  declared  that  he  had  "  run  " 
the  rapids,  and  that  the  squadron  couldn't  do  it,  the 
temptation  was  too  strong  to  be  resisted,  so  o.ie  after 
another,  with  safe  intervals  between,  the  cruisers  paddled 
out  into  the  flashing  water,  and  then  for  a  few  minutes, 
with  every  sense  on  the  alert,  every  nerve  strained,  no 


In  the  Second  Rapids. 

one  haJ  an  eye  for  anything  save  sunken  rocks,  treach- 
erous swirls  of  the  current,  and  the  hundred  indications 
which  to  the  canoeist  indicate  the  deepest  water  and 
the  safest  channel.  It  seemed  only  a  few  seconds,  but 
the  better  part  of  a  mile  had  been  passed  when  the 
four  waited  for  one  another  in  the  first  reach  of  quiet 
water  that  afforded  us  a  resting  place.  Each  had  grazed  a 
few  rocks  in  the  first  rapid.  But  all  had  passed  triumph- 
antly and  without  visible  mishap  beyond  the  ken  of  the 


IN   FOR   IT. 


209 


the  hotel  keeper,  and  the  villafjers,  and  were  content. 
Hal.''  the  Race,  however,  was  yet  to  be  run,  and  tliere 
was  barely  enough  of  daylight  left  for  the  undertaking. 

"  The  stream  rlln^  fa^t, 
The  rapids  are  near,  and  the  dayli<;ht  past," 

sang  the  Purser  as  he  paddled  the  Arethuschi  out  into 
the  stream  to  show  the  channel,  the  flagship  following, 
the  Cherub  next,  and  the  Rochcfort  bringing  up  the 
rear — an  order  of  sequence  that  was  presently  effectually 
reversed.  Just  below  the  head  of  the  next  rapid  the 
Arethusela  hung  upon  a  rock,  and  in  an  instant  her 
commander  was  overboard  and  struggling  in  a  fierce 
waist-deep  current  to  keep  his  footing,  and  retain  a  hold 
upon  his  boat.  To  add  to  his  discomfiture  his  paddle 
had  come  apart  and  half  of  it  was  floating  merrily  down 
the  stream.  As  the  Commodore  swept  past,  the  discom- 
fited Purser  called  on  him  to  save  it  ;  and  two  or  three 
strokes  brought  him  nearly  within  reach,  but  at  the  same 
time  deflected  him  from  the  only  path  of  safety.  The 
next  minute  he,  too,  was  in  the  water,  which,  before 
testing,  he  supposed  to  be  knee-deep,  but  which  proved 
to  be  nearer  neck-deep,  while  the  fugitive  paddle,  with  a 
playful  flourish  of  its  blade,  dived  under  a  log,  disappeared 
for  a  moment  from  view,  and  then  danced  cheerfully  down 
the  swift  waters  beyond.  At  this  crisis  the  Cherub  and 
Rochefort  appeared,  and  flashed  past  as,  half  swimming, 
half  wading,  the  two  strove  to  reach  a  secure  footing. 
They  shouted  derisive    inquiries    for    orders    to    the 


.1. 


210 


CANOKING    IN   KANUCKIA. 


I; 


.  ,i 


Commodore,  and  presently  disappeared  around  the  bend 
below. 

Speaking  unofficially  and  strictly  in  a  private  capacity, 
the  Commodore  admits  that  he  had  all  he  could  do  to 
avoid  grievous  wreck  on  the  logs  beneath  which  his  com- 


.  ^"-  ^.  -1-    A 


-%k^^'-/2 


Down  the  Race. 

panion's  elusive  paddle  had  vanished.  Wading  and 
swimming  were  alike  irreconcilable  with  the  conditions, 
for  the  bed  of  the  river  was  full  of  boulders  over  which 
the  water  boiled  without  breaking.  He  tried  the  plan 
of  holding  on  to  his  boat  and  floating  ;  but  after  being 
dragged  and  bumped  for  a  few  yards  over  the  stones,  he 
gave  that  up  and  resigned  himself  to  careful  wading  until 
he  reached  the  shallows,  where  he  at  length  succeeded  in 
re-embarking — no  easy  task,  by  the  way,  in  swift  water — 
and  soon  joined  the  Cherub  and  Rochefort. 

A  camping  spot  was  selected  on  a  bank  of  sawdust 
near  which  was  a  mighty  pile  of  dry  mill  waste,  and  the 
three  proceeded  to  light  a  fire  and  make  a  somewhat 
needful  change  of  clothing,  before  getting  supper  and 
turning  in  for  the  night.     After  a  long  time  the  Arethu- 


SAFE   IN   THE   CAMP. 


211 


sela  came*  in  sight,  her  crew  laboriously  workin;^  a  half- 
paddle — though  why  a  spare  one  stowed  below  decks  was 
not  used  was  never  found  out — and  examining  the  shores 
and  channel  for  the  lost  property.  This  was  happily  dis- 
covered cbse  to  camp,  and  presently  a  "lean-to,"  was 
covered  with  the  soaked  tent,  which  made  a  reasonably 
comfortable  shelter. 

Sawdust  is  not  so  bad  to  sleep  on  when  you  have  a 
boat  or  a  rubber-blanket  under  you,  but  it  r^'tains  moist- 
ure badly,  and  is  seldom  dry  more  than  an  inch  below 
the  surface.  Moreover,  the  dry  part  catches  fire  and 
burns  in  an  exceedingly  persistent  and  stealthy  manner, 
tunneling  unsuspected  in  all  directions  and  making  itself 
very  disagreeable.  The  members  of  the  expedition,  how- 
ever, knew  its  nature  and  provided  against  its  vagaries  by 
wetting  thoroughly  in  the  vicinity  of  the  fire,  where  the 
Cook  speedily  had  coffee  and  a  tempting  pan  of  scrambled 
eggs  ready  for  the  evening  meal. 

The  voyagers  went  to  sleep  this  night  with  unwonted 
noises  in  their  ears,  namely  the  close-at-hand  roar  of 
rapids  rising  and  falling  as  the  mysterious  and  impercep- 
tible changes  of  the  evening  air  bore  it,  now  heavily,  now 
faintly,  through  the  thick  forest  of  spruce.  It  was  a  wilder 
region  than  that  through  which  they  had  been  passing  on 
the  lake  and  its  outlet,  and  the  woods  gave  out  sounds 
at  night  which  often  aroused  one  and  another  with  the 
pleasing  and  yet  uncomfortable  thought  of  bears  and 
lynxes  in  his  half  awakened  brain. 


T 


J     I 


II '  I 


Ir^ 


4-1  . 
t 


Ik 


' 


-! 


I 


I 


ft; 

fSli 

!' 

Mi 


I 


h  J 
I!  i 

Ml   V 


XIII. 

SWIFT   WATER. 

HERE,  at  the  foot  of  "  Rapid  No.  2,"  the  authors 
would  say  a  word  for  the  benefit  of  the  inexperi- 
enced. They  are  asked  by  cautious  readers  if  this  kind  of 
play  is  not  dangerous.  Certainly,  just  as  coasting,  and 
travelling  by  rail,  and  crossing  Broadway,  and  playing  base 
and  foot-ball,  are  dangerous.  In  short,  just  exactly  as  life 
itself  is  dangerous.  They  would  not  advise  any  but  bold 
swimmers  to  undertake  the  amusement ;  but  where  proper 
survey  is  taken  to  avoid  possible  falls,  a  wetting  is  the  worst 
that  can  ordinarily  happen.  During  the  entire  trip  no  mis- 
haps occurred  save  those  which  came  in  as  part  of  the  fun, 
and  although  the  voyagers  were  wet  and  dry  half  a  dozen, 
times  a  day,  not  one  caught  the  slightest  cold,  or  suffered 
any  ill  effects  from  exposure.  Hardly  any  woman,  and  not 
by  any  means  all  men,  can  be  expected  to  appreciate  the 
fun  of  these  duckings  and  other  uncertainties  of  canoe 
cruising.  It  may  as  well  be  admitted,  however,  that  no 
out-of-door  recreation  that  is  worthy  the  name,  is  wholly 
without  risk.  The  steadiest  horses  sometimes  take  fright 
and  run  away.  Without  its  rivalries  and  possible  perils 
to  heart  and  hand,  croquet  itself  would  be  tut  an  insipid 


,{  . 


BY   THE   INDIAN   FILE. 


213 


pastime.  All  excitement  presupposes  risk  of  some  kind, 
but  it  refreshes  body  and  brain  alike  when  taken  in  rea- 
sonable doses  and  in  a  fashion  that  does  not  infringe  on 
the  rights  of  others.  Since  the  Saturday  afternoons  of 
their  boyhood  the  authors  have  experienced  nothing  so 
delightful  as  those  long  days  on  lake  and  river. 

To  certain  members  of  the  fleet  the  awakening  in  the 
chilly  morning  air,  with  fog  rising  from  the  water  and 
drifting  through  the  slender  spires  of  balsam  and  spruce, 
was  the  reverse  of  inspiriting,  and  the  uncertainty  as  to 
the  course  of  the  river  below  did  not  tend  to  create  an 
irresistible  eagerness  for  farther  rapids  and  farther 
wettings.  The  sun  however,  soon  drove  away  the  mist, 
dried  the  heavy  dew  from  boats  and  equipments,  and 
gradually,  as  the  river  dimpled  in  the  sunlight  and  rushed 
brimming  past  in  a  swift  deep  current,  it  resumed  its 
attractiveness  and,  as  soon  as  clothing  was  dry  enough  to 
put  on,  every  man  was  eager  to  begin  the  day's  adven- 
tures, and  get  it  comfortably  wet  again. 

Single  file  should  be  the  order  of  procedure  in  a  rapid 
river  where  there  is  any  question  as  to  the  width  of  unob- 
structed channel.  On  sighting  a  rapid  whose  foot  cannot 
be  clearly  seen  from  its  head,  some  one  should  recon- 
noitre, and  after  noting  the  bearings  of  the  current,  should 
lead  the  way,  the  rest  of  the  fleet  following  at  safe  inter- 
vals and  taking  prompt  warning  from  his  example  in  case 
he  comes  to  grief.  As  a  general  rule  the  water  is  deepest 
near  the  concave  shore.     The  reason  is  obvious.     Each 


M  f  ^ 


I , 


214 


CANOEING  IN  KANUCKIA. 


general  shore-line  of  a  crooked  stream  is  a  series  of  points 
and  bays  modified  by  a  hundred  varying  conditions. 
Every  point  tends  to  deflect  the  current  toward  the  op- 
posite shore,  and  where  the  strongest  current  is,  there  is 
ordinarily  the  deepest  water.  Where  the  stream  breaks 
into  rapids  the  same  rule  holds  good,  but  is  liable  to  end- 
less modifications  from  boulders  and  rocks  of  all  shapes 
and  sizes.  Nevertheless  it  may  be  assumed  chat  it  has 
been  trying  for  untold  ages  to  shape  its  channel  according 
to  nature's  rule,  and  it  will  be  found  in  most  cases  to 
have  attained  a  reasonable  success.  At  the  head  of  a 
rapid  the  white  broken  water  is  almost  invariably  V 
shaped,  the  apex  pointing  down  stream.  Between  the 
arms  of  the  V  the  water  is  comparatively  smooth,  and 
dark.  Along  the  arms  and  below  the  apex  is  white 
water,  thrown  up  more  or  less  into  waves.  It  is  generally 
the  safest  course,  barring  casual  rocks  which  may  put  in 
an  appearance  anywhere,  to  head  directly  for  the  apex 
of  the  V,  keeping  in  unbroken  water  as  long  as  possible. 
Then  trust  to  luck  and  a  quick  eye  and  hand  to  avoid 
the  rocks  which  come  too  near  the  surface.  Nothing  but 
experience  can  teach  one  to  recognize  these,  and  even 
recognition  does  not  always  imply  the  ability  to  avoid 
disaster.  ' 

If  a  keel-boat  hangs  resolutely  on  an  obstacle,  there 
is  nothing  for  its  occupant  to  do  but  to  jump  overboard, 
and  the  quicker  the  better,  if  he  wishes  to  keep  his  stores 
dry.     In  many  cases  such  a  boat  may  swing  free  or  be 


THE   UNPICTURESQUE   MODE. 


215 


lifted  clear  by  a  powerful  thrust  of  the  paddle.  The 
canoeist's  instinct  is  all  that  he  has  to  tell  him  whether  to 
jump  or  thrust.  With  a  keelless  canoe  the  case  is  differ- 
ent as  it  is  comparatively  rare  that  such  an  one  will  han^j 
persistently  to  an  obstacle.  It  is  often  best  however,  to 
take  to  the  water  in  order  to  save  the  canoe  from  hard 
knocks  and  scrapes.  In  view  of  this  necessity  for  jumping 
overboard,  some  protection  is  necessary  for  the  feet,  and 
there  is  nothing  so  good  as  the  common  canvas  bathing- 
shoes  with  thick  soles  of  hemp  or  jute.  An  old  pair  of 
slippers  is,  however,  far  better  than  nothing. 

Upon  the  whole,  the  best  policy  is  to  sit  as  usual 
amidships  and  give  to  rocks  the  widest  berth  possible. 
There  is  a  pernicious  doctrine  in  some  quarters,  derived 
it  must  be  confessed  from  English  canoeists,  chat  in  run- 
ning rapids  it  is  well  to  sit  astride  the  canoe  near  the 
stern,  and  lift  her  clear  if  she  strikes  by  simply  standing 
up  on  the  bottom  of  the  stream,  if  it  can  be  reached  with 
the  feet.  The  Purser  tried  this  once,  purely  out  of  pa- 
triotism, but  did  not  make  a  very  good  demonstration  of 
its  advantages,  for  he  upset  as  soon  as  he  ran  out  of  shoal 
water,  or  rather  he  took  a  ducking  in  order  to  save  his 
stores  which  would  inevitably  have  been  wet  had  he  tried 
for  an  instant  longer  to  maintain  his  precarious  seat. 
The  rivers  of  Europe  may  admit  of  this  very  unpic- 
turesque  mode  of  running  a  rapid,  but  those  of  America 
do  not  take  to  it  kindly. 

The  keels  of  the   Chrysalids,  are  a  decided  disadvan- 


T 


!••,<■= 


2l6 


CANOEING  IN  KANUCKIA. 


m 


tage  in  t-his  phase  of  canoeing.  They  give  the  canoe  ad- 
ditional draught,  and  hang  with  provoking  tenacity  upon 
any  rock  or  other  obstacle  which  they  encounter.  The 
Red-Lakers  on  the  contrary  slide  with  an  inch  or  more 
to  spare  over  an  obstacle  which  would  bring  a  Chrysalid 
to  instant  grief.  They  turn  far  more  easily,  and  hence 
can  much  more  readily  be  made  by  a  quick  swerve  to  one 
side  or  the  other,  to  avoid  a  threatened  danger.  The 
blindest  worshipper  of  the  Chrysalid  model  can  claim 
nothing  for  a  keel  in  swift  water,  save  that  it  receives  the 
hard  knocks  which  would  otherwise  have  scarified  the 
more  fragile  bottom  planks.  This  argument  in  their  favor 
is  not  good  for  much,  as  the  keel  cannot  protect  more 
than  two  or  three  inches  on  each  side,  unless  the  obstacle 
happens  to  be  broad  and  flat.  Under  these  conditions, 
it  was  to  be  expected  that  the  Rochefort  would  select 
with  excellent  judgment  a  place  whereon  to  demonstrate 
the  advantages  of  her  keel.  It  may  have  been  at  the 
foot  of  Rapid  No.  9,  at  any  rate  it  was  at  the  head  of  a 
comparatively  quiet  reach  of  water  where  three  of  the 
fleet  had  drawn  out  of  the  current  with  a  view  to  lunch- 
eon. The  Vice  was  the  last  to  arrive,  and  was  sweeping 
boldly  down  where  the  current  was  swift  and  deep,  hav- 
ing passed  the  white  water,  when  suddenly  he  was  ob- 
served to  bring  up  all  standing,  his  boat  swinging  round 
instantly  across  the  current,  having  fixed  a  malicious  grip 
upon  a  hidden  rock,  over  which  the  water  boiled,  but  did 
not  break.     The  Vice  was  unceremoniously  plumped  out 


ON   THE   ROCKS  TO  DRY. 


217 


on  the  down-stream  side  into  water  that  was  neck  deep 
and  running  like  a  mill-race,  but  as  he  wore  a  life-belt  he 
feels  justified  in  maintaining  that  he  did  not  go  entirely 
under.  He  succeeded  in  getting  a  hold  upon  the  rock 
by  the  aid  of  his  boat  hook,  and  seated  himself  thereon, 
holding  his  boat  by  the  painter  as  she  floated,  full  of  water 
and  only  sustained  by  her  air-tight  compartments,  a  yard 
or  two  below  him.  The  picture  that  he  presented  at 
this  moment  was  comical  in  the  extreme,  and  he  was 
heartlessly  kept  sitting  there, — he  could  not  very  well  get 
off  alone  with  his  boat  to  manage, — while  the  Commodore 
made  a  sketch.  The  regular  artist  was  too  much  con- 
cerned at  his  friend's  critical  situation  to  pay  any  attention 
to  the  calls  made  upon  him  for  a  careful  study.  The  cur- 
rent was  so  swift  and  deep  that  efforts  to  reach  the  Vice 
by  swimming  were  unsuccessful,  so  it  became  necessary 
to  wade  out  a  few  rods  below  him  and  catch  his  boat, 
when  he  let  her  float  down.  He  easily  swam  ashore 
when  relieved  of  this  charge,  and  once  more  the  Roche- 
fort  had  to  be  emptied  of  everything,  and  all  lay  by  for 
two  or  three  hours,  while  her  owner  and  his  belongings 
were  spread  out  on  the  rocks  to  dry,  he  discoursing,  the 
while,  until  all  fell  asleep,  of  the  innate  viciousness  of  a 
boat  which  could  thus  deliberately  bring  her  commander 
to  confusion  and  shame. 

It  was  in  '*  Number  12  "  that  all  came  nearest  to  utter 
discomfiture,  that  is  to  actual  overturns,  and  consequent 
wettings  of  things  not  intended  to  be  wet.     Never  had 


f1 


i 


■I'v 


M, 


(I! 


ft 


4IM 


THE   RAPID   ESCAPE, 


219 


the  Vice,  whose  turn  it  was  to  survey  the  route,  seen 
a  more  innocent-locking  rapid.  It  swept  down  in  a 
sh'ght  curve,  dancing  in  the  sun  and  seemingly  offering  a 
clear  channel.  It  was  the  flagship's  turn  to  bring  up  the 
rear,  and  in  watching  the  descent  of  the  others  the  Com- 
modore perceived  that  at  a  certain  point  each  crew  of  one 
became  as  it  were  demoralized,  and  struGfcrlcd  micrhtilv 
with  the  current  until  each  turned  at  a  right  angle  and 
went  on  its  way  into  the  pool  below.  The  reason  was 
not  apparent  until  he  reached  the  same  point,  when  he 
suddenly  became  aware  that  the  stream  was  bearing  him 
with  great  velocity  directly  upon  a  huge  rock.  To  go  to 
starboard  was  certain  wreck.  The  only  safety  lay  in  turn- 
ing sharply  to  port,  as  his  predecessors  had  done.  To  all 
appearance  this  was  utterly  impossible,  and,  while  strain- 
ing every  nerve  to  make  good  his  escape,  the  flag-officer 
fully  expected  to  be  rolled  over  into  twelve  f^t  of  water 
in  the  most  undignified  manner,  and  in  full  view  of  the 
fleet.  Just  at  the  last  moment,  when  an  overturn  seemed 
inevitable,  an  unexpected  set-back  from  the  rock  caught 
the  canoe  and  whirled  her  instantly  over  a  delightful  little 
dip,  hardly  high  enough  to  be  termed  a  fall,  into  the  deep 
water  below,  where  the  rest  of  the  fleet  lay  enjoying  the 
perplexity  and  relief  through  which  each  in  his  turn  had 
passed.  It  is  quite  impossible  under  such  circumstances 
to  shout  advice,  for  the  roar  of  the  water  completely  over- 
powers the  voice.  What  would  have  happened  if  any  or 
all  had  struck  the  rock?     Why,  each  and  all  would  have 


r: 


220 


CANOEING   IN   KANUCKIA. 


h  «i 


t*^^ 


'f» 


Klf 


been  spilled  comfortably  into  deep  water,  to  be  sure, 
whence  it  would  have  been  easy  to  swim  ashore  and  put 
things  to  rights. 

After  a  day  of  exciting  work  of  this  kind  it  was  not 
unpleasant  in  the  afternoon  to  paddle  out  upon  the 
smooth  waters  of  a  little  lake  in  the  midst  of  the  forest. 
Along  its  gentle  swelling  shores  were  scattered  farm 
houses,  beyond  which  the  rough  clearings  crept  up  the 
hillsides.  Two  or  three  huge  water-oaks  bent  over  the 
shore  in  a  shady  cove,  and  here  the  squadron  took  shelter 
until  the  sun's  rays  should  be  less  vertical.  Presently 
from  a  neighboring  farm  house  there  came  down  to  the 
water's  edge  a  damsel  who  proceeded  artlessly  to  rivet 
upon  herself  the  attention  of  the  fleet  by  lighting  a  fire 
under  a  boiler,  and  doing  up  the  family  washing  at  the 
lake-side.  The  artist  filled  a  page  or  two  of  his  sketch- 
book with  studies  from  the  life,  but  refuses  for  some  rea- 
son to  furnish  them  for  publication.  She  was  near 
enough,  however,  to  afford  a  fine  opportunity,  as  the 
Ariist  said,  to  study  the  peculiar  French  type  of  form  and 
feature,  as  modified  by  several  generations  of  life  in  a 
foreign  climate. 

Presently  the  Commodore,  under  pretence  of  inquir- 
ing after  eggs  and  milk,  approached  la  blanchisscuse.  The 
Cook  lounged  respectfully  behind  his  commanding  officer, 
while  the  latter  addressed  the  woman  in  alleged  French 
to  receive  only  a  dismal  shake  of  the  head  in  reply.  He 
repeated  his  question,  changing  the  phraseology,  but  with 


IMPRESSIVE   ADVICE. 


221 


a  different  result,  while  the  Cook,  to  relieve  the  Com- 
modore's evident  embarrassment,  softly  whistled  the 
Thuringian  '*  Volks-lied."  A  pleased  glance  from  the 
woman  elicited  a  word  or  two  from  the  Cook ;  after  a 
short  but  spirited  conversation  in  which  the  Commodore 
took  no  part,  the  Cook  informed  his  companion  that  the 
desired  supplies  could  be  had  at  the  house,  and  the  two 
men  departed. 

*'  Confound  this  French  lingo !  "  exclaimed  the  Com- 
modore, "  there  are  as  many  dialects  in  this  region  as 
there  are  towns,  and  I  don't  easily  pick  them  up;  how  do 
you  manage  to  do  it  .'*  " 

"  My  dear  fellow,"  said  the  Cook  impressively,  *'  there 
is  one  rule  to  be  unvaryingly  observed  in  conversing  with 
these  people  :  never  speak  French  to  a  woman  who  under- 
stands only  the  German  language." 

The  Commodore  dropped  the  milk-pail — fortunately 
it  was  empty — and  endeavored  to  swear  the  Cook  to 
secrecy,  with  what  success  this  narrative  doth  show.  But 
he  derived  some  consolation  from  frequent  allusions  to 
the  Purser's  professional  studies  of  the  "  French  type  of 
form  and  feature,  as  modified  by  a  change  of  abode." 

When  the  sun  was  low  enough  to  cast  the  shadow  of 
the  hills  upon  the  lake,  the  fleet  started  and  made  its 
way  toward  a  distant  point  which,  it  was  surmised,  was 
not  far  from  the  outlet  and  would  afford  good  camping 
ground  for  the  night.  A  more  delightful  three  mile  pad- 
dle can  hardly  be  imagined.     The  peculiarly  sacred  still- 


iV 


r 


222 


CANOEING  IN   KANUCKIA. 


ncss  of  a  forest-land  at  sunset  was  over  all  the  scene  ;  a 
silence  that  seemed  absolute,  and  was  yet  vocal  with 
noises  that  did  not  break  the  spell.  The  plash  of  leaping 
fish,  the  far  off  scream  of  an  eagle,  the  occasional  laughter 
of  a  loon,  the  measured  dip  of  paddles,  none  of  these  were 
discordant  with  nature,  and  even  the  human  tones  that 
now  and  then  floated  from  the  distant  houses  were  so 
faint  as  to  be  inoffensive.  The  vovagers  hardlv  ex- 
changed  a  word  as  side  by  side  they  slid*  through  the 
reflected  hues  of  sunset,  watching  in  silence  the  mighty 
mountain  that  rose  in  dark  purple  against  the  west, and 
gathered  around  its  summit  a  night-cap  of  cloud  that 
changed  from  red  to  grey  just  as  the  point  was  reached 
and  the  tent  pitched  beneath  a  huge  gnarled  pine,  that 
tovvered  above  its  fellows,  and  offered, as  the  Vice  sug- 
gested, an  admirable  mark  for  any  nocturnal  thunder- 
storm that  might  be  wandering  in  this  direction.  Only 
one  thing  aroused  any  apprehensions  as  to  the  comfort 
of  this  camp,  and  that  was  the  ceaseless  roar  (the  word 
is  used  advisedly  in  preference  to  "hum")  of  insects. 
They  proved  innocuous,  however,  and  sleep  soon  came 
down  upon  the  tired  canoeists. 


Ni 


XIV. 


MORE   RAPIDS. 

CONTRARY  to  custom  the  camp  had  been  pitched 
where  the   morning  sun  would  strike   in  upon  it. 
This  is  undesirable  unless  an  early  start  is  the   order  of 
the  day,  for  breakfast  in  the  level  rays  of  a  summer  sun 
is  not  so  comfortable  as  in  the  shade  of  a  natural  screen. 
At  a  tolerably  seasonable  hour,  therefore,  the  squadron 
paddled  around  the  point  and  across  the  reach  which  still 
separated  them  by  two  miles  or  so  from  the  outlet.     For 
variety  the  wind  was  dead  ahead,  but  the  distance  was 
soon  passed  and  the  flash  of  rapids  at  the  very  lip  of  the 
lake   announced    that  the  stream    maintained    the  char- 
acter which  it  had  displayed  in  the  earlier  portion  of  its 
career.     In   a  moment  the   four  pretty  canoes  were   in 
line  at  ample  distance  apart  and  were  dancing  down  the 
swift  current  into  a  dark  sweep  of  spruce-covered  banks, 
with   four  as  light  hearted  vagabonds  on  board  as  ever 
left  care  behind  them. 

In  retrospect  it  is  hardly  possible  to  recall  any  part 
of  this  romantic  river  where  a  halt  was  nr-t  a  luxury 
merely  because  of  the  picturesque  surroundings.  Seldom 
could  the  eye  reach  more  than  half  a  mile  up   or  down 


i^ 


1' 


w 


n  '■ 


! 


I  I 


II 

9 

#■' 

1 

1 

I 

f         t 

224 


CANOEING   IN   KANUCKIA. 


stream,  for  the  precipitous  or  forest-covered  banks  were 
continually  pushing  out  on  the  one  side  and  receding  on 
the  other,  while  between  them  the  river  curved  and 
wound  in  a  perpetual  succession  of  rapids,  pools,  and 
quiet  stretches.  The  current  even  in  its  most  quiet  moods 
was  singularly  swift  and  powerful,  bearing  the  fleet  on- 
ward with  hardly  an  effort,  at  the  rate  of  six  or  seven 
miles  an  hour.  When  clearinsrs  occurred  thev  were 
on  the  points,  as  is  always  the  case  in  thinly  settled  coun- 
tries. Naturally  such  points  are  formed  in  there-entrant 
angle  of  the  stream,  and  become  places  of  deposit  for 
drift  and  alluvium  in  flood  time.  The  opposite  bank 
is  usually  bold  and  with  soil  enough  in  most  cases  to 
sustain  only  the  wild  forest  growth.  The  quiet  reaches, 
however,  are  frequently  broken  where  the  river  forces 
its  way  through  narrow  passages,  or  over  rocky  ledges. 
There  are  no  dangerous  falls  until  within  a  mile  of  the 
mouth,  and  there  is  only  one  dam  between  the  lake  and 
the  falls.  This  dam  the  voyagers  reached  a  few  hours 
after  leaving  the  lake  ;  hours  full  of  the  pleasant,  health- 
ful excitement  of  rapids  and  wild  shifting  scenery. 

Striking  the  back-water  of  the  mill-pond  a  mile  above 
the  dam,  the  fleet  paddled  down  and  soon  came  in  sight 
of  the  logs  and  crib-work  which  indicate  the  presence  of 
a  saw- mill. 

Drawing  up  alongside  the  boom,  all  hands  walked 
across  the  dam  and  considered  the  chances  of  running 
the  race-way.     Noon  had  passed  however,  and  while  the 


A  STANDARD   PINT. 


235 


question  was  still  unsettled,  children  came  down  from  the 
mill-settlement  with  fresh  raspberries,  and  butter  made  in 
tile  French  style,  without  salt,  and  thus  reminded  ot 
luncheon,  it  wn.s  decided,  in  view  of  an  approachin«T 
thunder  shower,  to  adjourn  to  the  Si  fk  ;r  of  the  mill. 
Here  an  incident  occurred  which  proved  as  it  had  never 
been  proved  before  the  admirable  discipline  maintained 
in  the  />ersoH/ie/  o(  the  command. 

In  the  early  days  of  the  cruise  it  became  painfully 
evident  to  the  real  canoeists  who  were  connected  with 
the  expedition,  that  in  one  particular  at  least  an  unseemly 
tendency  toward  effeminate  luxury  was  developing  itself. 
The  Vice  and  the  Purser,  on  the  first  day  out,  produced 
with  an  air  of  insufferable  superiority,  china  plates,  and 
bowls  which  they  were  phased  to  denominate  coffee  cups. 
The  relative  size  of  these  as  compared  with  the  legitimate 
tin-cups  used  by  the  Commodore  and  the  Cook  is  here- 
with shown.  Of  course  the  flag-officer  at  once  detected 
the  ruse,  and  foiled  the  conspirators  by  issuing  at  the 
first  camp,  Special  Order  No.  I  to  this  effect: 

The  coffee  ration  will  always  be  measured  in  the  Cook's  cup,  that  being 
the  standard  pint  recognized  at  these  headquarters. 

By  order  of  the  Commodore. 

Possible  infringement  on  the  rights  of  individuals 
having  thus  been  provided  against,  it  was  only  necessary 
to  counteract  so  far  as  possible  the  demoralizing  effect  of 
the  daily  sight  of  china  upon  the  morale  of  the  expedition. 
This  end  was  diligently  sought  by  the  commanding  officer 


!il 


226 


CANOEING  IN  KANUCKIA. 


'fi 


by  every  means  in  his  power,  but  to  no  purpose.  He 
personally  supervised  the  daily  measuring  of  coffee  with 
the  Cook's  cup,  but  by  some  means  the  china  bowls  were 
always  filled,  and  their  owners  never  failed  to  remark  upon 
the  superior  excellence  of  coffee  taken  from  such  re- 
ceptacles over  that  imbibed  from  barbaric  tin.     It  was 


Comparative  Coffee  Cups. 

evident  that  sooner  or  later  a  resort  must  be  had  to  arbi- 
trary measures,  but  no  fitting  opportunity  presented  itself 
until  the  squadron  took  refuge  in  the  mill  as  narrated 
above. 

The  thunder  storm  proved  to  be  of  extraordinary 
violence,  throwing  down  trees,  overturning  buildings  and 
playing  the  mischief  generally. 

Midway  of  the  meal  the  wind  so  increased  as  to  drive 
the  rain  in  upon  the  festive  board.  The  Commodore 
saw  that  the  time  had  come  for  action,  and  acted  with 
the  promptitude  which  should  always  characterize  an  able 
commander.  •'  Prepare  for  a  change  of  base,"  he  shouted 
above  the  roar  of  rain  and  wind.  **  Purser^  coKee-pct 
and  sugar  ;  Vice,  devilled  turkey  and  salt ;  Coo^,  bread  and 
butter."     Each  man  seized  the  articles  indicated  and  fled 


A  SACRIFICE   FOR   CHINA. 


227 


to  a  place  of  shelter.  With  a  gleam  of  triumph  in  his  eye 
the  Commodore  collected  the  remaining  dishes. and  taking 
his  life  in  his  hand,  for  the  good  of  the  service,  sprang 
upon  a  pile  of  logs  that  was  awaiting  the  saw,  and  at- 
tempted to  cross  it  at  a  run.  At  the  third  step  a  log 
tilted.  The  Commodore  went  down,  while  the  spasmodic 
upward  motion  of  the  arms,  under  such  circumstances, 
sent  the  dishes  aloft.  They  speedily  came  down,  but  it 
was  in  pieces  that  did  the  Cook's  heart  good  to  see.  The 
Commodore,  it  is  true,  might  have  broken  his  leg,  but  he 
did  not,  and  while  he  somewhat  ruefully  rubbed  his  star- 
board shin,  he  watched  with  scarce  concealed  satisfaction 
the  gathering  of  the  fragments.  Not  a  bowl  or  a  plate 
remained.    The  morale  of  the  expedition  was  saved  ! 

After  the  storm  passed,  it  became  necessary  to  cir- 
cumvent or  run  the  dam.  It  was  a  logging  dam,  some 
eighteen  feet  in  perpendicular  height,  and  offered  extra- 
ordinary inducements  for  running,  but  with  a  little  too 
much  risk,  so  the  boats  were  laboriously  passed  one  by 
one  over  the  wing  of  the  dam,  and  found  themselves  at 
the  head  of  a  superb  rapid  which  swept  beneath  and 
around  a  rocky  cape, and  quickly  carried  the  fleet  beyond 
the  ken  of  the  little  forest  settlement  lying  around  the  mill. 

If  possible  the  scenery  below  the  mill  was  more  pic- 
turesque than  any  previously  seen.  At  one  point  the 
woods  were  on  fire,  and  for  a  few  hundred  yards  the 
smoke  was  so  thick  that  progress  had  to  be  made  with 
extreme  caution,  as  the  current  was  swift  and  the  channel 


w^ 


if 
It 


( 


'I 


a 


Mill 


I 


.i" 


!  1 : 


w  '■ 


\'-  i 


i     I 


228 


CANOEING  IN  KANUCKIA. 


full  of  rocks.  At  another  the  stream  wound  slowly 
between  wood-crowned  cliffs,  whose  geological  nature 
severely  taxed  the  scientific  attainments  of  the  expedi- 
tion, and  tempted  a  long  sojourn,  while  the  Artist  vainly 
essayed  a  realistic  sketch  of  the  strangely  convoluted 
strata,  which  made  the  face  of  the  cliff  so  wonderfully 
expressive  of  the  elemental  strife  and  torture  that  must 
have  shaped  it  in  some  by-gone  age.  So  with  alternat- 
ing reaches  of  swift  and  still  water,  the  lovely  stream 
coursed  downward,  bearing  the  fleet  only  too  rapidly 
toward  its  junction  with  the  larger  river.  One  more 
night  was  passed  among  the  spruces  of  its  rugged  shores, 
and  shortly  after  the  next  morning's  start  it  became 
evident  that  the  forest  stream  was  preparing  to  fulfill  its 
destiny  in  driving  the  saws  of  a  great  mill.  Houses 
straggled  along  the  bank,  and  presently  the  fleet  was 
feeling  its  way  among  logs  and  booms  to  a  landing  place. 
A  few  hours  sufficed  to  procure  transportation  around 
the  beautiful  falls,  and  by  sundown  the  -nuadron  was 
making  camp  as  usual  on  the  banks  of  a  broad  placid 
river,  which  to  all  appearances  was  the  same  which  it  left 
a  few  days  before.  Here  was  Acadia  again,  and  some- 
thing of  a  mental  effort  was  necessary  to  realize  that 
it  was  another  Acadia  from  that  wherein  the  first  aeon  of 
the  cruise  had  passed.  The  vesper  bell  sounded  as 
before,  the  lumber  laden  barges  drifted  as  lazily  as  ever, 
and  the  villages  named  after  unheard  of  saints  dotted 
the  banks  in  close  succession,  and  the  roar  of  rapids  was 
no  longer  to  be  heard. 


XV. 

THE  BEGINNING  OF  THE   END. 

TT  had  been  something  of  a  reh'ef  to  stow  masts  and 

X  sails  compactly  away  for  a  few  days,  and  now  again  it 

was  an  agreeable  change  to  be  once  more  under  canvas 

and  see  the  slender  masts  bend  and  spring  before  the 

breeze. 

In  the  course  of  a  day's  sail  the  river  narrowed  per- 
ceptibly, as  rivers  are  wont  to  do  as  they  near  their  out- 
lets,  and  the  various  members  of  the  expedition,  havin-.  ' 
noted  the  fact,  proceeded,  each  in  his  own  way,  to  dist 
cover  the  cause  thereof.     A  melancholy  howl  (learned 
from  Garibaldians  in  Italy)  by  the  Vice,  who  was  always 
m  the  rear,  was  rightly  construed  by  the  occupants  of  the 
Red   Lakers  (in  the  advance)  as  a  sign  that  the  Vice 
wanted  to  light  his  pipe,  so  the  Cook,  who  by  virtue  of 
h.s  official  position  was  custodian  of  the  expeditionary 
matches,  lay  to  until  the  Vice  came  alongside. 

"  The  river,"  remarked  the  Vice,  between  puffs  "  is 
narrowing-every  mile.     Suppose  it-should  keep  on- 
doing  it  for-fifty  miles  more ;  it-.would  close  entirely 
before_it  reached    the_ow  !-(here    the  flame   of    the 
match  reached  the  Vice's  fingers)-reached  St.-the  devil 


!  'J 


i '  i-^ 

it  1 

.i 

p . 

i 

»'■  1 

; 

1 
i| 

j 

*' . 

,! 

r  '  ■ 

I      1 


230 


CANOEING  IN   KANUCKIA. 


oh ! "  for  the  Vice  had  dropped  the  still  blazing  fragment 
upon  his  b^re  foot. 

"  No  such  saint  in  any  calendar  but  that  of  politics," 
said  the  Cook  reprovingly. 

"  The  St.  Lawrence,  I  meant,  of  course,"  said  the 
Vice  :  "  the  devil  isn't  recognized  by  anf  party  at  all." 

"  I  suppose  not,"  answered  the  Cook,  who  had 
dropped  into  a  dreamy  reverie.  "  The  true  workers  in 
this  world  are  never  recognized  by  those  who  are  most 
entirely  dependent  upon  them." 

"  You're  begging  the  question,"  exclaimed  the  Vice, 
examining  his  scorched  instep.  "  An  apology  in  the 
shape  of  your  flask  of  olive  oil  will  be  satisfactory. 
How  do  you  explain  the  river's  shrinking,  any  how  ?  " 

"  Why,  it's  growing  deeper,  and  as  there's  only  a  given 
amount  of  water,  it  can't  occupy  more  space  in  one 
direction  without  narrowing  in  another.  It's  a  precedent 
you  might  safely  follow  in  poHtics." 

The  Vice  reflected  for  a  moment ;  then  a  sweet  smile 
irradiated  his  features,  his  left  eye  closed,  his  right  fore- 
finger was  slowly  laid  athwart  his  nose,  and  he  replied, 

"  I  knew  that  long  ago,  my  boy ;  it's  the  mainstay  of 
the  business — the  system,  I  mean.  Let  the  party  broaden, 
and  *  Othello's  occupation's  gone.'  " 

But  the  Cook,  having  relieved  his  mind  of  chaff  which 
nevertheless  carried  (unknown  to  him)  a  grain  of  wheat, 
determined  to  inflict  upon  some  one  else  the  questioning 
to  which  he  had  been  subjected,  so  he  speedily  overhauled 


A  QUESTION   SETTLED. 


231 


the  other  Chrysalid  containing  the  Purser,  and  demanded 
the  reason  of  the  river's  narrowing.  The  Purser  abruptly 
ceased  patching  a  sonnet  which  he  had  scribbled  upon 
the  blade  of  a  spare  paddle,  and  answered, 

"  The  water-drops,  so  long  united,  have  a  premoni- 
tion of  the  doom  of  separation  soon  to  befall  them,  and 
they  cling  more  closely  to  each  other,  for  a  last  fond  in- 
terchange of  sentiment." 

•*  Water  is  not  compressible  by  its  own  volition," 
promptly  replied  the  Cook,  who  loved  cyclopedias,  and 
never  knew  sentiment  when  he  encountered  it.  But  the 
Purser,  who  hated  questions  so  intensely  that,  had  he 
lived  in  the  time  of  that  vigorous  old  interrogation  point 
yclept  Socrates,  would  have  tramped  a.  thousand  miles 
for  hemlock  rather  than  have  left  the  sage  unpoisoned, 
ran  ashore  to  avenge  himself  upon  the  Commodore,  who 
had  beached  his  boat  to  await  the  coming  up  of  his  lag- 
ging fleet.  Tv^  the  commanding  officer  the  Purser  put 
the  disturbing  qu^'stion  as  to  the  cause  of  the  narrowing 
of  the  river,  and  w  th  the  following  result : 

"  Rivers  shrink  toward  their  natural  channel  for  the 
same  reason  that  capitalists  take  to  government  bonds — 
because  their  banks  are  slippery,  and  suffer  by  the  many 
rushes  upon  them." 

The  villages  grew  nearer  together  as  rapidly  as  the 
shores  did,  and  ahead  and  aloft  there  were  always  in  sight 
several  church  spires  of  the  unvarying  pattern  peculiar  to 
churches  along  the  river.     Every  spire  was  metal-covered 


232 


CANOEING  IN   KANUCKIA. 


f  ;. 


!    ii^ 


i         ;i 


!S    ; 


and  bright,  the  latter  perhaps  because  there  were  no  op- 
position houses  of  worship  to  cause  that  dismalness  of 
aspect  affected  by  all  churches  in  neighborhoods  where 
religion  tends  more  to  squabbling  than  to  sanctity.  At 
short  intervals  appeared  the  residences  of  the  priests, 
each  indicated  by  a  tall  cross  at  the  gateway.  The  Com- 
modore, with  his  peculiar  regard  for  the  church  so  near  a 
sister  to  his  own,  signified  a  half  intention  to  go  ashore 
to  confession,  but  on  being  reminded  that  but  a  week  re- 
mained for  the  cruise,  and  that  no  such  short  time  would 
suffice  an  editor  in  which  to  unburden  his  soul  of  its 
manifold  sins  and  transgressions,  he  forbore  to  make 
others  suffer  for  his  own  faults.  It  was  noticed  there- 
after, however,  that  he  doffed  his  helmet  respectfully 
whenever  he  sailed  past  a  church,  and  that  when  his  own 
day  for  foraging  came,  he  preferred  always  to  purchase 
milk  from  a  priest's  housekeeper. 

About  this  time  the  Purser  began  to  drop  behind  in  a 
manner  inexplicable  even  by  the  known  slowness  of  his 
boat ;  even  the  slow-sailing  Vice  distanced  him,  so  the 
Cook,  not  without  a  special  appreciation  of  the  Purser's 
tobacco,  went  ashore  to  wait  for  his  comrade  to  come  up. 
The  bank  of  the  river  was  high,  and  the  Cook,  who  had 
been  hugging  the  shore  for  shade,  had  made  company  for 
himself  by  roaring  sundry  staves,  supposing  that  no  one 
but  his  comrades  were  within  listening  distance.  Great 
was  his  surprise,  therefore,  when  on  clambering  up  the 
bank  he  behtld  a  closely  built  village  in   front  of  him. 


THE   SWEET  SOLUTION. 


-33 


Had  the  locality  been  any  but  Acadia,  even  the  river 
banks  could  not  have  hidden  the  town,  but  here  the 
dwellings  are  as  modest  of  mien  as  the  natives.  Few 
boast  of  a  second  story,  nor  is  the  floor  of  the  first  very 
much  raised  above  the  level  of  the  ground.  In  exterior 
dimensions,  most  of  the  houses  reminded  the  Cook  of  his 
chicken-house  at  home,  or  of  those  suburban  villas  which 
cluster  so  thickly  upon  the  hills  adjoining  Central  Park. 
But  with  size  the  last-named  parallel  ceased,  for  the  ex- 
teriors were  painted,  the  floors,  seen  thjough  the  open 
doors  and  windows,  were  clean,  and  no  pig  disported 
himself  about  the  door-step.  Children  clustered  about 
them  as  thickly  as  they  always  .do  about  very  small 
houses,  but  the  matrons  lacked  that  fagged,  heaven-hun- 
gry mien  peculiar  to  their  sisters  in  climes  where  the 
Scripture  is  fulfilled  by  the  greatest  being  the  servant  of 
all — all  of  her  own  servants.  Here  one  might  speak  of 
love  in  a  cottage  and  not  be  laughed  out  of  society — 
hopeless,  indeed,  would  be  his  fate  were  he  to  desire  any 
other  sort  of  asylum  for  his  affections. 

The  Cook  longed  for  social  intercourse  in  this  real 
Acadia,  but  he  doubted  the  ability  of  his  French  to  see 
him  through ;  fortunately  he  espied  a  shop,  and  therein 
he  purchased  sundry  sticks  of  candy  ;  with  one  of  these 
gravitating  between  his  fingers  and  lips,  he  strolled  about, 
and  within  five  minutes  he  had  enchained  in  sweet  bonds 
several  lapsful  of  dark-eyed  children  whose  pure  intui- 
tions taught  them  that  in   the  great  human  search  for 


•i1' 


234 


CANOEING   IN   KANUCKIA. 


Ill' 


I 


sweetness  and  light  it  was  never  well  to  decline  a  prof- 
fered half  of  the  desirable  whole. 

When  the  Purser  drew  near,  it  was  with  a  sketch-book 
loaded  with  drawings  of  odd  boats  which  had  been  passed 
at  their  moorings  ;  and  the  names  of  these,  with  those  of 
their  owners,  which  were  painted  in  antique  letters  astern, 
would  have  been  of  inestimable  value  to  any  writer  of  a 
French  romance.  And  he  brought  something  dearer  yet 
to  the  eyes  and  heart  of  the  Cook,  and  yet  not  wholly 
unpicturesque,  it  being  a  pair  of  cockerels,  handsomely 
spangled,  which  he  had  purchased  of  a  thrifty  dame  with 
whom  he  had  exchanged  some  courteous  words  as  he 
lounged  past  her  riparian  laundry  in  his  boat.  The  Cook 
hastily  took  to  his  boat,  distanced  the  Commodore  and 
Vice,  and  an  hour  later  announced  broiled  chickens  for 
dinner,  the  gridiron  having  been  a  few  feet  of  stout  wire, 
which  after  use  could  be  crumpled  together  into  a  thin 
handful  of  old  iron,  yet  extended,  at  need,  to  a  two- 
chicken  capacity. 

After  the  expedition  had  dined,  each  member  dis- 
covered, upon  arising,  that  the  human  side  is  not  desti- 
tute of  muscles,  and  that  a  steady  strain  of  half  a  day  at 
rudder  and  paddle,  can  search  these  out  in  a  manner  as 
uncomfortable  as  it  is  thorough.  The  Purser,  who  usually 
made  himself  conspicuous,  when  ashore,  by  a  broad  red 
woolen  sash,  apparently  a  muffler  such  as  small  boys  wear 
upon  their  necks  in  winter,  was  by  far  the  most  agile  of 
the  party,  and  his  companions,  as  they  rubbed  away  the 


COURTSHIP  AFOOT  AND  ABOARD. 


235 


stitches  in  their  sides,  inwardly  vowed  that  the  picturesque 
was  not  always  ridiculously  useless,  particularly  when 
assumed  on  proper  occasions,  instead  of  being  treated  as 
of  constant  utility. 

As  the  wind  was  gaining  in  industry,  the  Commodore 
permitted  an  overlong  delay,  to  be  improved  physically, 
and  while  this  was  being  enjoyed  there  hove  in  view 
a  craft  peculiar  to  French-American  waters,  but  which 
would  not  be  tolerated  anywhere  else.  It  was  an  im- 
mense barge,  considerably  more  awkward  than  a  canal 
boat,  and  moved  by  two  great  square  sails,  each  with 
a  mast  to  itself.  The  breeze  which  bellied  the  canvas  of 
this  monster  would  have  driven  a  canoe  along  at  the 
rate  of  twelve  miles  an  hour,  but  the  barge  proceeded  so 
leisurely  that  a  maiden  sauntering  along  the  road  on 
the  bank  chatted  with  the  pilot  for  a  mile  or  two  without 
quickening  her  pace.  Having  both  his  vessel  and  his 
sweetheart  upon  his  mind,  it  is  not  strange  that  the 
pilot  did  not  perceive  the  four  foreign  craft  beached 
a-starboard  ;  the  maiden,  however,  with  a  woman's  eye 
for  color,  caught  sight  of  the  club  signal  which  the  Cook 
always  flew  at  his  masthead,  instead  of  upon  the  main- 
peak,  with  which  it  would  have  been  furled  when  sail 
was  taken  in.  Her  figure,  which  had  afforded  so  gracious 
a  relief  against  the  blue  sky  behind  her,  disappeared  with 
the  unscientific  effect  of  seeming  to  leave  a  cloud  behind, 
and  as  the  unintentional  listeners  devoutly  thanked 
heaven  for  such  knowledge  of  the  French  tongue  as  had 


'^  ' 


!    II 


I' 


■i 


236 


CANOEING   IN   KANUCKIA. 


enabled  them  to  overhear  the  artless  affectionate  dia- 
logue which  had  been  going  on,  they  saw,  gazing  at  the 
pilot,  how  dark  the  Acadian  complexion  can  be  when 
displayed  in  the  face  of  a  lover  newly  made  lonesome. 
Gladly  would  the  swain  himself  have  retired  from  sight, 
but  the  helm  of  his  boat  was  obedient  only  under  greatest 
effort,  so  he  strained  sullenly  at  the  tiller,  a  figure  at  first 
amusing  but  soon  pathetic.  The  sentiment  which  keeps 
the  world  from  growing  old  was  not  a  stranger  to  the 
canoeists,  so  the  Purser  murmured  a  bit  from  Jasmin  and 
caught  a  hint  which  for  years  he  had  tried  to  take  from 
Jules  Breton  ;  the  Cook  wished  there  might  be  a  joint  of 
chicken  left  to  offer  the  poor  fellow;  the  Commodore 
hailed  him  heartily,  and  offered  to  carry  him  out  a  taste 
of  brandy  in  token  of  a  professional  and  sentimental 
sympathy,  and  the  Vice  sent  him  a  good  cigar ;  and  it 
came  to  pass  that  five  minutes  later  the  ere-while  love- 
lorn helmsman  was  trolling  a  song  of  war  and  slaughter 
as  merrily  as  if  love  and  Evangeline  had  never  existed. 

•*  Ah,"  sighed  the  Commodore,  "the  days  are  gone 
when  rum  and  true  religion  were  the  principal  supports 
of  fallen  humanity.  Smoke  seems  to  answer  that  fellow's 
purpose  as  well  as  religion." 

"  If  my  memory  serves  me  rightly,"  said  the  Vice,  as  if 
in  profound  reflection,  "  a  great  deal  of  the  religion  I 
have  heard  preached,  was  well  informed  with  a  something 
from  which  smoke  is  a  natural  deduction." 

•*  That,"  said  the  Purser,  "  is  because  in  the  universal 


LITERARY  ASIL 


237 


fitness  of  things  a  man  recalls  most  readily  that  which  he 
most  urgently  needs.  No  one  can  wonder  that  a  politi- 
cian— " 

"Language  unparliamentary,"  interrupted  the  Vice, 
with  a  wry  face. 

"  A  statesman,  then,"  resumed  the  Purser,  "  should  re- 
call most  vividly  the  only  element  by  which  he  can  effect- 
ually be  purified." 

"  Sulphur  is  not  to  be  used  under  the  rays  of  the 
sun,"  interposed  the  Commodore  ;  **  let's  take  to  a  more 
cooling  element." 

A  few  moments  were  devoted  to  extra-careful  stowino- 
for  there  was  a  likelihood  that  terra  firma  would  again 
be  reached  only  on  the  shores  of  the  great  St.  Lawrence. 
The  Vice,  with  the  statesmanlike  instinct  of  saving  him- 
self by  assisting  his  companions  heavenward,  endeavored 
by  fair  means  and  foul  to  persuade  the  others  to  accom- 
modate his  gun,  shot-bag  and  the  volume  of  Tupper,  but 
regarding  the  latter  his  failure  was  complete.     At  length 
he  slyly  tossed  it  into  the  branches  of  an  umbrasreous  ash, 
a  picturesque  old  landmark  of  centuries.     But  the  Com- 
modore  saw   him,   and  went  handsomely  to  the  rescue 
of   the    old    tree   by    knocking    the    book   out   with   a 
boat-hook. 

"There  are  trees  enough  being  destroyed  daily  by 
coon-hunters,  road-boards,  and  other  villains,"  said  he, 
"and  I  won't  stand  quietly  by  and  see  so  splendid  a  spe- 
cimen crushed  beneath  so  relentless  a  weight." 


m 


i 

V 

9 
9 


238 


CANOEING   IN   KANUCKIA. 


m 


ISi 


**  But  somebody  may  find  the  book,"  pleaded  the 
Vice,  who  was  already  afloat. 

"  Thank  heaven,  the  natives  can't  read  English," 
replied  tlie  Commodore,  **  so  they  won't  be  injured." 

**  But  I  supposed  I  might  find  it  there  when  I  came 
this  way  on  next  summer's  cruise,"  said  the  Vice. 

"  So  you  will,"  said  the  Commodore  ;  "  neither  wind 
nor  wave  can  move  any  thing  so  heavy :  when  that  book 
changes  its  base,  there'll  be  nothing  left  to  cruise  with, 
and  nobody  left  to  cruise." 

The  Commodore,  for  reasons  which  he  would  not 
explain,  had  ordered  t^  the  St.  Lawrence  should  be 
reached  that  day,  even  ..wiigh  there  was  not  a  breath  ot 
wind,  and  the  whole  trip  had  to  be  made  under  paddle,  and 
the  Cook  knew  full  well  that  when  a  Commodore  (or  any- 
one else)  issues  an  order  that  sounds  well  and  prints  nicely, 
its  success  or  failure  depends  largely  upon  the  digestion 
of  those  who  are  expected  to  execute  it.  So  the  Cook 
prepared  a  meal  as  digestible  as  it  was  bountiful,  and 
within  an  hour  the  expedition  had  consumed  enough  of 
omelettes,  stewed  potato,  rice  croquettes,  cream-toast  and 
coffee  to  have  terrified  their  respective  wives  into  apply- 
ing for  divorces  on  the  ground  of  inordinate  appetite.* 
It  is  barely  possible  that  the  meal  was  prolonged  with 
the  hope  that  a  breeze  might  spring  up  in  ti^e  meantime, 

*  Note  by  the  Commodore. — The  Cook's  notoriously  fertile  imagina- 
tion has  misled  him  slightly  in  regard  to  this  menu.  But  let  it  stand.  The 
Commodore,  however,  wishes  to  state  that  salt-pork  and  hard-tack  formed 
the  staple  of  the  repast  so  far  as  he  was  personally  concerned. 


THE  BREEZE   STIFFENS. 


239 


and  do  away  with  the  necessity  not  only  of  paddling,  but 
of  taking  down  and  stowing  away  all  standing  rigging, 
which  in  still  water  is  likely  to  unfavorably  affect  the 
time  of  the  boat.  But  no  breeze  came,  not  even  in  reply 
to  some  vigorous  whistling  on  the  part  of  the  Commodore. 
So  the  expedition  took  to  its  several  paddles,  and  got 
into  mid-stream  to  get  all  possible  assistance  from  the 
current,  and  then,  just  where  the  river  was  widest,  and 
the  squadron  furthest  from  shore,  a  brisk  breeze  came 
down  as  unexpectedly  as  if  it  were  a  savings  bank,  and 
each  man  had  to  paddle  ashore  again  to  re-step  his  masts 
so  that  he  could  set  his  sail.  Then  the  squadron  ran 
rapidly  down  the  river,  wondering  only  if  such  a  breeze 
on  so  small  a  water  could  work  a  man  up  to  so  keen  an 
ecstacy,  how  they  would  be  able  to  contain  themselves 
when  cruising  upon  the  almost  shoreless  St.  Lawrence. 

As  usual,*  the  Cook,  in  the  Cherub,  soon  took  the  lead, 
and  rapidly  increased  the  distance  between  himself  and 
his  companions.  There  was  nothing  to  fear,  for  the  Vice, 
who  had  previously  been  through  the  river  with  the 
Alderman,  had  assured  the  party  that  there  was  not 
another  rapid  between  it  and  the  St.  Lawrence.  And 
even  if  there  should  be  one  which  the  Vice  had  forgotten, 
the  Cook  would  be  glad  of  the  geographical  ignorance 
which  would  enable  him  to  shoot  it  without  the  attend- 
ance of  three  other  boats,  with  their  advisory  counsels. 
So  he  hauled  his  main-sail  close  and  flew  along  through 

*  Note  by  the  rest  of  the  Squadron — "  As  usual— Ha  ha  !" 


J40 


CANOEING  IN  KANUCKIA. 


[*(•; 


the  water,  his  steering-paddle  keeping  upon  his  wrist  a 
strain  more  delicious  than  man  ever  felt  at  the  larger  end 
of  a  trout-rod.  He  shouted,  he  whistled,  and  finally, 
there  being  no  critic  within  hearing  distance,  he  sang. 
And  as  his  rather  uncertain  voice  rose  and  fell,  the  wind 
seemed  to  supply  a  deep  bass,  a  foundation  into  which 
his  wavering  notes  fitted  perfectly.  He  fervently  thanked 
the  wind,  and  the  tall  trees  through  which  it  roared,  for 
their  sympathetic  effort ;  he  redoubled  his  own  vocal  ex- 
ertions, and  the  wind  and  trees,  apparently  touched  by  his 
appreciation,  seemed  to  assist  more  heartily  than  before. 
Suddenly  the  Cook  noticed  that  the  east  bank,  from  which 
direction  the  wind  came,  was  without  tree?  at  that  point, 
and  while  he  dropped  into  silence  to  wonder  how  the 
sound  could  be  created  where  the  means  were  lacking,  the 
bass  turned  gradually  to  sub-bass.  Suddenly  he  saw  an 
irregularly  intermitting  spout  of  water  near  the  middle  of 
the  river,  then  he  noticed  a  troubled  wrinkle  across  the 
river's  entire  front.  He  hastily  let  his  boat  come  up  into 
the  wind  and  run  into  what  seemed  a  cove  on  the  east 
bank,  and  as  she  ran  ashore  there  arose  a  loud  shout  of 
applause  from  a  dozen  men  congregated  there. 

"  No  one  ever  came  so  near  before,"  said  one,  in 
French. 

"  Saved  by  a  minute  !  "  ejaculated  another. 

"  Could  he  have  meditated  suicide  ? "  murmured  a 
third.  "  No ;  he  looks  not  like  one  who  has  been  dis- 
appointed in  love." 


A  CRISIS  AND  RESULT. 


241 


The  Cook  courteously  but  firmly  demanded  an  ex- 
planation, and  one  of  the  bystanders,  a  venerable  man  in 
the  dusty  coat  of  a  miller,  led  him  to  a  slight  elevation 
to  obtain  it.  Then  the  Cook  saw  that  a  natural  and 
abrupt  fall  of  about  fifteen  feet  extended  entirely  across 
the  river !  In  an  instant  he  vowed  a  handsome  subscrip- 
tion to  the  campaign  fund  of  whatever  candidate  might 
run  against  the  Vice  in  the  autumn  campaign. 

The  other  boats  approached  in  the  order  of  their 
rapidity,  the  Chrysalids  coming  last,  and  the  Vice's 
admission  that  his  boat,  with  its  keel,  could  never  have 
escaped  had  it  been  in  the  Cherub's  dangerous  proximity 
to  the  falls,  so  reacted  upon  the  Cook's  temper  that  he 
alienated  a  portion  of  the  intended  subscription  to  the 
opposition  campaign  fund,  and  expended  it  upon  a  din- 
ner for  four,  for  which  he  gave  the  proprietress  of  an 
adjoining  hotel — "  Le  Hotel  de  la  Ville  " — carte  blanche. 
And  the  landlady  did  her  best.  For  an  hour  she  and 
several  assistants  hung  over  two  stoves,  while  other 
assistants  scoured  the  neighborhood  for  delicacies.  The 
dinner  was  appetizing,  as  was  all  whereof  the  squadron  par- 
took in  Acadia  after  they  had  learned  to  avoid  the  railroad 
hotels.  Finally  after  all  else  was  disposed  of,  an  immense 
dish  of  raspberries  was  placed  upon  the  table,  and  be- 
side it  a  small  bowl  full  of  what  seemed  to  be  buttermilk. 

"  There  ! "  exclaimed  the  Vice,  eying  the  bowl  with 
manifest  disgust,  "  that's  an  illustration  of  the  effect  of 
monarchical  institutions  upon  physical  habits.     The  din- 


242 


CANOEING   IN  KANUCKIA. 


I 


li 


I  4 


I. 


ner  has  been  perfect,  thus  far,  but  now,  just  when   the 
climax  should  be  attained,  they  offer  us  buttermilk  !  " 

**  Perhaps  it's  cream,"  suggested  the  Commodore. 

"  Cream  ?  "  said  the  Vice  scornfully.  *'  Oh  no.  I 
know  cream.  Cream  is  a  thin  blue  fluid.  This  is  not 
like  it  in  the  least." 

Here  the  Vice  scooped  a  teaspoonful  of  the  pasty 
fluid,  and  brought  it  gently  towards  his  fastidious  nose. 
Suddenly  he  tasted  it,  straightened  rigidly,  and  exclaimed, 

"Judas  Iscariot !     It  is  cream  !  " 

The  Vice  said  no  more  until  he  had  sampled  the 
bowl  to  the  extent  of  a  saucerful.  Then  he  raised  his 
face  and  displayed  unwonted  lines  of  thoughtfulness  and 
conviction,  as  he  exclaimed, 

"  Gentlemen,  if  an  English  cow  gave  that  cream,  1 
have  no  hesitation  in  saying  that  our  independence 
wasn't  worth  fighting  for!  " 

"  Huzza !  "  shouted  the  Commodore  and  the  Purser, 
as  they  fell  into  each  other's  embrace  and  wept  conserva- 
tive tears  upon  each  other's  blue  shirt-collars,  while  the 
sternly  patriotic  Cook  pushed  the  seductive  bowl  afar  and 
whistled  the  *'Star-Spangled  Banner,"  as  a  counter-irritant. 
But  when  he  asked  for  his  bill,  and  found  that  it  was  but 
thirty-five  cents  for  each  individual,  he  retired  to  the 
hotel  parlor  where  there  was  an  asthmatic  cottage-organ 
and  penitently  played  "  Rule,  Britannia,"  keeping,  how- 
ever, a  cautious  foot  upon  the  soft  pedal  lest  his  tempo- 
rary lapse  from  national  love  should  be  discovered. 


PREPARING  TO  BE  SEEN. 


243 


On  returning  to  the  boats  it  was  discovered  that  the 
small  boy  who  had  been  engaged  as  watchman  had  ac- 
cumulated half  a  hundred  deputies.  As  none  of  these 
expected  any  money,  the  fickle  Vice  fluctuated  back  to 
his  first  love  among  the  nations,  and  was  rebuked  by  the 
Commodore  forjudging  all  things  by  a  financial  standard. 

The  breeze  had  apparently  been  to  dinner  too,  for  it 
was  amazingly  reinvigorated  and  marked  about  forty 
flaws  to  the  hour.  An  order  to  carry  only  "  dandy " 
sails  was  protested  against  by  the  entire  command,  and 
the  Commodore,  hoping  that  the  coffin  trade  was  not 
depressed  in  the  shipping  port  at  the  river's  mouth,  re- 
luctantly gave  way  to  the  wishes  of  his  subordinates. 
The  result  was  that  extraordinary  time  was  made,  and 
twenty-five  miles  were  passed  almost  before  the  voyagers 
realized  that  the  afternoon  was  waning. 

As  they  approached  the  close  of  their  voyage,  the  the 
considerable  town  where  their  voyage  was  to  end,  it 
occurred  to  the  squadron  that  its  personal  and  individ- 
ual appearance  was  the  reverse  of  prepossessing.  A  halt 
was  accordingly  made,  and  for  an  hour  assiduous  atten- 
tion was  paid  to  baths,  soap,  shaving  utensils,  and  the 
carefully  preserved  remnants  of  what  had  once  been 
laundried  articles  of  wear.  The  one  pocket  mirror  had 
long  since  disappeared,  so  that  certain  delicate  operations 
of  the  toilette  were  performed  with  some  uncertainty. 
The  Commodore  had  reached  the  final  touches,  and  was 
tenderly  arranging  the  thin  locks  which  still  cluster  about 


244 


CANOEING  IN   KANUCKIA. 


»f 


his  posterior  cranial  processes.  To  this  task  he  devoted 
for  a  time  all  the  powers  of  his  gigantic  intellect,  but  in 
the  absence  of  the  accustomed  mirror,  the  result  was  un- 
satisfactory. Dropping  his  hand  at  last,  the  Commodore 
sighed,  and  looked  around  for  assistance.  The  Vice,  re- 
splendent in  a  white  shirt  and  neck-tie,  was  unoccupied. 
To  him  the  Commodore,  tendering  the  fragmentary- 
comb: 

"1  say,  Vice,  part  my  hair,  will  you,  please." 

The  Vice  marveled,  but  mechanically  took  the  comb, 
while  the  Commodorial  dome  was  bowed  conveniently 
before  him.  Long  he  paused,  so  long  that  the  Commo- 
dore, losing  patience,  called  out,  "  Why  don't  you  go 
ahead  ?  " 

"  My  dear  boy,"  said  the  Vice,  **  So  I  would,  but 
there's  nothing  in  the  world  to  part." 

The  venerable  mariner  slowly  straightened  himself, 
looked  blankly  for  a  moment  into  the  face  of  his  lieu- 
tenant, and  passed  his  hand  reflectively  over  the  smooth 
top  of  his  head. 

*'  I  beg  your  pardon,  boys,"  he  said  at  last.  *'  I  had 
forgotten.  This  cruise  has  made  me  so  much  younger 
that  I  thought  I  wasn't  bald  yet.  It's  high  time  for  me 
to  be  back  at  the  office — '  There'll  be  no  parting  there.'  " 

Of  the  remainder  of  the  run,  some  five  or  six  miles, 
no  member  of  the  squadron  is  mentally  fitted  to  give  a 
correct  account.  Every  one  wanted  to  be  first  in  port, 
and  the  Vice,  in  anticipation  of  being  the  fortunate  man, 


THE  EAGLE   DID  NOT  SCREAM. 


245 


had  secretly  extemporized  a  new  star  spangled  banner  to 
carry  at  the  peak  of  his  mainsail.  But  both  Red  Lakers 
shot  ahead  of  the  Chrysalids,  and  the  Vice  at  last  igno- 
miniouslv  took  in  his  national  ensijin  because  it  wasted  a 
certain  amount  of  wind.*  Finding  there  was  but  one  boat 
against  him,  the  Cook  assumed  that  he  had  himself  al- 
ready won  the  race,  so  he  began  to  compose  a  sarcastic 
address  to  be  delivered  to  his  associates  as  one  by  one 
they  rejoined  him  at  whatever  landing-place  he  might 
select.  While  he  composed  he  heard  a  whiz,  he  saw  a 
shadow,  and  the  wind  died  (apparently)  so  suddenly  that 
he  barely  had  time  to  adjust  the  trim  of  his  boat  to 
avoid  capsizing.  Looking  about  him  he  saw  the  great 
sails  of  the  flagship  passing  him  to  windward,  and  he 
heard  the  voice  of  the  Commodore,  in  tones  which  no 
combination  of  type  can  express,  shouting, 

*'  Come  to  the  best  hotel  and  see  me  when  you  get 
in!" 

So  the  Cook  looked  about  for  some  excuse  to  make 
for  what  would  be  his  probable  tardiness,  and  he  soon 
found  it.  As  he  flew  past  a  large  assemblage  of  rafts,  he 
found  their  occupants,  all  Canadians,  in  an  extreme  fever 
of  curiosity  to  know  how  the  boats  were  steered  ;  the 
wind  b^ing  from  their  own  bank,  they  could  not  see  the 
steering-oar  on  the  opposite  side.  They  also  looked  upon 
the  Red  Lake  boats,  built  in  their  own  country,  as  utter 

*  The  astute  congressman  who  occasionally  enables  the  eagle  to  scream 
may  find  a  valuable  precedent  in  this  act  of  the  Vice. 


246 


CANOEING   IN   KANUCKIA. 


¥ 


u 


'     (  v!. 


■i. 


(,-■  '{•> 


Strangers,  which  fact  enabled  the  Cook  to  moralize,  by 
comparison,  upon  the  ignorance  of  people  about  their 
own  neighbors,  and  upon  the  peculiar  fancies  which  in 
such  cases  are  made  to  do  duty  as  facts.  The  Cook  ex- 
plained to  the  full  extent  of  his  knowledge  and  his 
French,  and  then,  sighting  the  Chrysalids  within  a  mile 
he  sheared  away,  and  within  five  minutes  a  swell  from  a 
steamer  sent  a  wave  of  St.  Lawrence  water  under  his 
bows,  and  he  saw  the  "  Great  Lone  River  of  the  North," 
from  the  midst  of  as  entangling  an  alliance  of  steamers, 
barges,  tugs,  schooners,  ferry-boats,  yachts,  fishing  boats 
and  pirogues  as  any  canoe  was  ever  imperilled  of,  while 
the  Commodore  lay  under  the  lee  of  a  decayed  pier,  and 
placidly  smoked  at  his  subordinate's  confusion. 

The  St.  Lawrence  was  hailed  with  delight  by  the 
tardy  Chrysalids  when  they  reached  it,  and  then  the  party 
strolled  to  the  post  office,  debating  whether  to  run  up  to 
Montreal,  which  course  the  wind  favored,  or  down  to 
Quebec,  with  the  current  and  an  occasional  tide  to  help. 
All  admitted  that  the  cruise  had  but  fairly  begun  ;  placid 
lakes  and  beautiful  rivers  were  all  very  well,  but, 

"  Give  to  them  the  roaring  seas 
And  the  white  waves  heaving  high," 

or  as  much  thereof  as  was  within  the  bestowal  of  a  river 
many  miles  across.  Just  then  they  reached  the  post- 
office,  their  change  of  course  deprived  them  of  mail 
matter  for  several  days.  How  it  came  about,  nobody 
knew;  but  within   an   hour   the   Commodore,   his   boat 


It: 


AT  THE   CLUB   DINNER. 


247 


Stowed  for  return  as  freight,  was  on  a  train  for  New  York, 
and  his  comrades  were  mourning  that  they  could  not  ac- 
company him.  That  evening  all  the  canoes  were  stowed, 
and  placed  on  board  a  south-bound  canal-boat,  while  the 
Vice,  the  Purser  and  the  Cook  sat  in  Christian  garb  upon 
the  deck  of  the  Montreal  steamer,  smoked  cigars  instead 
of  pipes,  and  discussed  dados,  symphony  concerts,  the 
woman  question,  the  railroad  riots,  and  the  impending 
finance  muddle  as  conventionally  as  if  they  had  never 
lived  out  of  doors. 


A  few  days  later  they  met  at  a  canoe  club  dinner  in 
New  York,  but  neither  claw-hammer  coat  nor  white 
tie  could  smother  the  fire  within  them  as  they  discussed 
the  merits  of  their  respective  boats. 

"  The  Chrysalids  don't  ziz-zag  when  they're  paddled, 
as  the  keelless  Red  Lakers  do,"  observed  the  Vice. 

♦*  Nor  do  they  keep  within. hailing  distance  in  a  breeze 
in  which  even  a  dead  log  would  run  and  be  joyful,"  re- 
torted the  Commodore. 

*'  They  need  no  lee-board  to  keep  them  from  drifting 
down  the  wind,"  said  the  Purser. 

"  Nor  more  than  three  men  to  land  them  on  a  shore 
upon  which  a  gentle  tug  at  the  painter  will  beach  a  Red 
Laker,"  said  the  Cook. 

*'  Give  me  a  boat,"  said  the  Vice,  "  which  steers  in  the 
ordinary  ship-shape  manner." 

'*  I,"  remarked   the   Commodore,  "prefer  one  whose 


248 


CANOEING   IN   KANUCKIA. 


\. 


!  '  :■ 


Commander  don't  have  to  analyze  a  whole  rope  yard  be- 
fore he  can  get  her  into  sailing  condition." 

"  The  idea  of  oil-cloth  decks  for  any  sort  of  a  craft !  " 
exclaimed  the  Purser. 

"  Or  of  decks  that  make  you  imagine  it's  resurrection 
morn,  and  you're  crossing  the  Styx  in  your  own  coffin," 
said  the  Cook. 

"  Order,  gentlemen,"  shouted  the  ruler  of  the  feast  ; 
*'  if  you've  any  personal  difficulties  to  settle,  please  retire 
to  the  ante  room,  and  cease  disturbing  the  club." 

"  Ze  ante-room,"  remarked  the  caterer,  "is  full  of  ze 
Alderman  an'  ze  Judge,  who  fight  about  ze  merits  of  ze 
Rob  Roy  boats  an'  ze  paper  canoe." 

"Then  I  will  settle  the  question  myself,"  said  the  Presi- 
dent, taking  from  his  pocket  a  copper  cent  of  the  fathers. 
"  Heads  signifies  the  superiority  of  the  Chrysalids,  tails  of 
the  Red  Lakers." 

The  coin  spun  in  the  air,  and  the  quartette  sprang  to 
its  collective  feet.  It  came  down  exactly  edgewise  into 
a  bit  of  Fromage  de  Brie,  and  so  remained. 


i     ! 


/ 


APPENDIX. 


T  N  the  preceding  pages  the  authors  have  introduced 
i-  in  a  desultory  way  some  hints  which  it  is  hoped  may 
prove  of  practical  use  to  inexperienced  or  possibly  to  ex- 
perienced canoeists.  There  are  some  questions  however 
which  are  asked  by  every  one  who  contemplates  engaging 
in  this  delightful  recreation,  and  to  a  (qw  of  these  q'ues''- 
tions  answers  are  now  volunteered. 
I.  Where  can  I  get  a  canoe  ? 

The  best  answer  is  a  list  of  builders.     James  Everson, 
Williamsburgh,   N.   Y..    W.   Jarvis,  Ithaca,    N.    Y.,  and 
George  Roahr,  Harlem,  N.  Y.,  build  excellent  boats  after 
the   Nautilus   model  and   its   modifications.      These  all 
build  on  the  well  known  lap-streak  or  clinker  plan,  using 
cedar  planks  and  oak  timbers.     Mr.  J.   H.  Rushton  of 
Canton,  N.  Y.,  builds  after  the  Nautilus  und  Rob  Roy 
models,  also  after  a  model  of  his  own.     He  has  a  peculiar 
method  of  construction,    which    makes   his   work   very 
strong  and  serviceable.     Walters  &  Sons,  of  Troy,  N.  Y., 
build  paper  boats  after  the  Nautilus  and  Rob  Roy  mod- 
els,  D.   Herald,  of  Rice   Lake,  Ontario,   Canada,  builds 
canoes  on  a  model  of  his  own  approximating  to  the  best 
type   of  Indian    **  birch."      His   method   of  building  is 
described  on  page    io6.     The   model    is   admirable\r 
speed,  sea-worthiness  and  safety.     At  Ottawa,  Canada,  is 


250 


APrENDIX. 


a  builder  named  English  whose  boats  are  well  spoken  of 
but  the  authors  are  not  personally  acquainted  with  them. 
J.  F.  West,  of  East  Orange,  N.  J.,  builds  light  and  ser- 
viceable boats  of  ash  strips  covered  with  painted  canvas. 
He  does  not  build  for  sale,  but  will  furnish  information 
for  those  who  wish  to  build  for  themselves. 

H.  How  much  does  a  canoe  cost  ? 

Seven  dollars  a  foot  is  not  an  unfair  rule  whereby  to 
estimate  the  cost  of  a  lap-streak,  Nautilus  model,  including 
spars  and  rudder.  Some  builders  charge  more,  others 
less  than  this.  The  Canadian  canoes  are  cheapest  of  all, 
but  to  the  first  cost  must  be  added  the  tariff  duty  for 
importation  into  the  United  States  (about  thirty  per  cent 
ad  valorem).  Herald's  highest  priced  canoe,  seventeen 
feet  long,  was  at  latest  advices  forty-five  dollars.  This 
size  is  built  under  his  patent  and  copper  fastened  through- 
out. Built  in  the  rib  and-batten  style,  the  price  is  ten 
dollars  less  and  canoes  of  smaller  sizes  of  both  kinds  still 
less.  The  Nautilus  models  are  largely  decked  over  fore 
and  aft  without  extra  cost,  and  are  provided  with  ample 
water-tight  compartments  which  are  invaluable  in  case  of 
accident  and  may  be  fitted  with  hatches  which  render 
them  available  for  stowage.  The  other  models  whose 
first  cost  is  less,  are  not  provided  with  these  conveniences 
except  by  special  arrangement,  involving  of  course  addi- 
tional expense.  A  canoe  may  be  purchased  and  fully 
rigged  for  less  than  a  hundred  dollars  if  her  purchaser  is 
gifted  with  mechanical  ingenuity.  Or  if  money  is  no 
object,  the  cost  may  be  run  up  to  almost  any  figure. 
The  ordinary  price  of  a  double-bladed  paddle  is  in  the 
United  States  five  dollars.  All  the  builders  make  them. 
A  specialist  is  Henry  Mitchell,  of  Bergen,  New  Jersey. 


APPKNDIX. 


2;i 


III.  Miscellaneous. 

For  sails  use  the  best  unbleached  heavy  twilled  cotton 
sheeting,  double  width.  Cut  so  that  the  selvedfre  will  form 
the  leach  of  the  sail.  Hem  half  an  inch  wide,  stitched  on 
both  edges.  Strong  laid  cotton  cord  about  an  eighth  of 
an  inch  in  diameter  should  be  sewed  along  the  luff  of  the 
sail,  and  is  by  no  means  undesirable  along  the  other  edges, 
loops  for  making  fast  being  provided  whenever  needed. 
All  these  cotton  articles  should  be  well  soaked  before 
being  made  up  to  prevent  unequal  shrinkage.  The  plates 
entitled  *'  Under  full  sail,"  and  "  Close  hauled  "  give  a  suffi- 
ciently accurate  idea  of  the  size  and  shape  of  sails.  The 
'•  Chrysalid,"  as  drawn,  is  supposed  to  be  fourteen  feet 
long,  and  the  "  Red  Laker"  seventeen  feet.  From  this 
the  size  of  the  sails  can  be  easily  ascertained.  The  flying 
jib  shown  in  one  of  the  cuts  is  of  no  practical  use,  and  no 
one  is  advised  to  rig  one. 

Laid  or  braided  cotton  cord  of  one-eighth-inch  or  a 
little  more  in  diameter  is  best  for  running  rigging.  For 
painter  use  braided  sash  cord,  or  best  Manilla  hemp. 

Probably  the  best  varnish  for  canoes,  spars,  paddles, 
etc.,  is  "  Pellucidite"  Nos.  i  and  2,  made  by  Seely  and 
Stevens,  of  No.  32  Burling  Slip,  New  York.  The  same 
house  has  "  paste  filling  "  which  should  be  applied  before 
the  varnish.  The  best  brown  shellac  is  very  good  and 
possesses  the  inestimable  virtue  of  drying  in  ten  minutes. 
It  may  be  applied  over  the  paste  filling  above  mentioned. 
All  varnishes  are  better  and  clearer  for  being  laid  on  and 
suffered  to  dry  in  the  sun. 

All  metal  work  about  a  canoe  should  be  brass  or  cop- 
per.    If  it  is  nickel-plated,  so  much  the  better. 

Decks  or  coverings  of  some  sort  are  essential.     These 


2;2 


APPENDIX. 


may  be  fixed  as  in  the  Nautilus  model,  or  movable,  which 
is  better  for  obvious  reasons.  Canvas,  rubber,  or  glazed 
cloth  serve  very  well.  A  simple  and  inexpensive  device 
is  to  sew  small  rings  in  the  edges  and  hook  them  over 
small  round-headed  brass  screws  set  along  the  gunwale. 
Let  the  screws  be  either  on  top  of  the  gunwale  or  under 
it.  If  set  along  the  outer  edge  they  are  sure  to  be 
knocked  off.  The  authors,  after  a  trial  of  flexible  covers, 
have  decided  in  favor  of  wooden  decks,  fastened  along 
the  gunwale  with  simple  keys,  staples,  or  buttons.  If 
cloth  is  used  ridge-poles  are  necessary  to  make  a  water- 
shed. Wooden  decks  should  be  cambered  or  arched  for 
the  same  reason.  The  open  central  space  should  have  a 
flexible  cover  available  in  rain. 

Some  of  the  open  canoes  have  thwarts  which  are 
curved  downward.  This  makes  them  uncomfortable  to 
sleep  in,  and  the  builder  should  be  directed  to  curve 
them  upward.     They  can  be  easily  changed  if  desired. 

The  masts  should  be  stepped  in  fixed  copper  tubes, 
because  these  relieve  the  canoeist  from  the  often  difficult 
task  of  feeling  about  blindly  for  the  lower  step  in  the 
bottom  of  the  boat,  and  because  an  accidental  starting  of 
the  mast  may  lift  it  clear  of  the  step,  in  which  case, 
lacking  the  tube,  it  will  inevitably  split  the  deck.  Suita- 
ble tapered  tubes  known  as  hose-pipes  are  kept  in  stock 
by  dealers  in  copper  tubing.  The  taper  is  an  advantage 
as  the  mast  cannot  well  be  stuck  fast  therein.  Cost 
only  a  few  cents. 

Bags  of  cork-shavings,  air-pillows,  tin  cans,  or  other 
like  devices  may  serve  open  canoes  instfjad  of  the  water- 
tight compartments  of  Nautili.  ^^ 

Melted  candle  grease  rubbed  into  a  crack  will  make  it 


AlTEiNDIX. 


253 


temporarily  water  tight.  White  lead  is  more  permanent, 
and  gutta-percha  softened  in  warm  water  and  pressed  in 
is  highly  recommended.  This  last  is  not  vouched  for 
personally. 

Fine  copper  wire  is  very  useful  about  a  canoe  for 
lashings,  etc : 

Very  light  and  easily  working  mast-rings  may  be 
made  by  stringing  wooden  or  glass  beads  on  stout  copper 
wire,  which  is  then  bent  to  the  desired  size.  Solid  rings 
without  beads  (or  "  pearls"  in  strictly  nautical  phrase)  are 
apt  sometimes  to  hang  on  the  mast.  The  beads  serve  as 
little  wheels  in  running  the  sail  up  and  down. 

The  *'  latteen  "  rig  is  very  pretty,  but  very  dangerous. 
It  is  not  recommended.  The  "standing  lug"  which  is, 
in  effect  the  latteen  with  nearly  all  the  dangerous  part  cut 
off,  works  very  well. 

A  lee-board  may  be  used  to  advantage  in  working  to 
windward.  It  should  be  hung  over  the  lee-side  a  little 
forward  of  amidships.  The  simplest  way  of  making  it 
fast  is  to  pass  a  line  through  holes  in  its  upper  edge  so 
that  turns  can  be  taken  over  the  cleats  used  for  sheets. 
The  strain  of  a  lee-board  is  quite  heavy  and  all  its  con- 
nections must  be  made  strong.  It  has  of  course  to  be 
shifted  from  side  to  side  as  often  as  the  canoe  goes  about. 

In  paddling  some  sort  of  a  cushion  or  elastic  seat  is 
necessary.  Abrasions  and  possibly  more  serious  difficul- 
ties will  follow  a  disregard  of  this  advice. 

Do  not  undertake  to  be  a  canoeist  unless  you  can 
swim  easily  and  well,  and  do  not  attempt  to  sail  until  you 
are  well  accustomed  to  your  boat  under  paddle. 

To  render  cloth  of  any  kind  water-proof  the  following 
recipe  may  be  found  useful : 


254 


APPENDIX. 


,tl*HI' 


Into  a  bucket  of  soft  water  put  half  a  pound  of  sugar 
of  lead  and  half  a  pound  of  powdered  alum :  stir  at  in- 
tervals during  a  day  or  two  until  a  clear,  saturated  solu- 
tion is  formed.  Pour  off  into  another  vessel,  soak  the 
cloth  therein  for  twenty-four  hours  and  then  hang  it  to 
dry  in  the  shade  without  wringing.  By  this  process  an 
insoluble  salt  is  deposited  on  the  cloth  fibres  and  the  fab- 
ric will  shed  water  like  a  duck's  back.  Woolens  such  as 
good  Scotch  tweed,  retain  their  water-proof  qualities  in- 
definitely, cottons  not  so  long. 

A  glue  which  is  practically  water-proof  may  be  made 
by  boiling  isinglass  (Russian  is  best)  in  skimmed  milk. 
The  proper  proportion  is  about  two  ounces  to  a  pint. 
Common  glue  treated  in  like  manner  is  rendered  a  good 
deal  more  capable  of  resisting  moisture  than  when  made 
with  water  in  the  usual  way. 


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Indian  Cadoasus,  and  thk  Uppkk  Vallkts  of  tiiu  Uimalata.  Uy 
Ahdrkw  Wilson,    liqaare  octavo,  cloth  extra,  with  map 3  V 

•' There  U  not  a  page  In  thit  volome  which  will  not  repay  peraial.    •    •    •    The  author  deecrlbee 
all  h«  meata  with  on  hii  way  with  Inimitable  tplrlt."— London  Atheoenm. 

IV.  The  Life  and  Journals  of  John  J.  Audubon,  the  Natu- 

RALIST.     Comprising    Narratives  of   bis   Expeditions  in    the  AmericHU 
Forests,  Ac.    12mo,  cloth  extra,  with  Portrait 2  86 

"  It  li  a  grand  itory  of  a  grand  Ufa ;    more  tnitmctlve  than  a  Mrmon ;  more  romantio  than  a 
romance."— Harperi'  Magaiine. 

V.  Notes  on  England  and  Italy.  By  Mrs.  Nathanebl  Hawthorns 

(wife  of  the  Novelist).    Third  edition.    12nio,  cloth 2  00 

lllusirated  Edition,  with  12  Steel  Plates.    Octavo,  cloth  extra,  gilt  edgen.. . .        6  00 

"One  o!  the  mott  delightful  booki  of  travel  that  have  come  nnder  onr  notice."— Worcester  Spy. 
*'  The  grace  and  tenderneii  of  the  anthor  of  the  'Scarlet  Letter '  li  dUcernable  la  Its  ptgei.**— 
London  Saturday  Review. 

VI.  Recollections  of  a  Tour  Made  in  Scotland  in  1803.  By 
DoROTBT  WoRDSwoBTH  (Sister  of  the  Poet).  Edited  by  Pbinoipal  Buaibp, 
LL.D.    12ino,  cloth  extra t  BA 

<*  The  volome  gliiteni  with  charming  pauagei,  thowtng  how  rich  In  ■  Wordtwortnian '  iaacy  ivaa 
Ihli  modeit  litter."— London  Athenaiom. 

Vn.  Bayard  Taylor's  Travel.  Complete  in  10  Vole.  Conuinlng 

works  npon  Africa;  Egypt;  Iceland;  California  and  Mexico'  Greece  and 
Rasaia;  India,  China  and  Japan;  Palestine,  Asia  Minor,  Sicily  and  Spain 

Sweden,  Denmark  and  Lapland;  Enrope,  &c.,  Ac.    Per  volume lU 

Or,  II  Yolnmes,  neatly  put  up  in  box If  M 

•*Thsr«  It  no  romance  to  at  qalU  eqnal  to  one  of  Bayard  Taylor'i  books  of  traveL"— Hartferd 
■•Mklic*n> 

laf  PUTNAM'S  NBW  CATALOOUB  will  be  forwarded  to  uiy  addroM 
•a  raoetpt  of  stamp. 


HISTORICAL    WORKS 

PUBLISHED   BY 

G.    P.   PUTNAM'S   SOx\S, 

182  Fifth  Avenue,  New    York. 


^^P?;  .^  Dictionary  of  Dates,  relating  to  all  Ages  and  Nations, 
for  universal  Reference.  By  Benjamin  Vincent.  The  ntw  (iSilo 
English  edition,  with  an  American  Supplement,  containing  about  :iO0 
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than  1,000  pages.      Price jg  qq 

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volume.  *"'  '"  f"""«««»"d  accuracy.    NOKOod  lii.rary  can  dispense  wUhttds 

PUTNAM  (G.  P.,  A.M.)  The  World's  Progress.  A  Dictionary  of 
Dates;  being  a  Chronological  and  Alphabetical  Record  of  Essential 
Facts  in  the  History  of  the  World  and  the  Progress  of  Society,  from  the 
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testify  that  it  has  iieen  composed  with  care,  and  utter  consultation  ol'  the  best 
authorities  and,  moreover,  by  no  means  the  least  ol'  its  merits,  tliut  it  is  a  must 
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An  excellent  feature  in  this  work  is  tlnit  a  continuation  is  given  iu  the  appendix  from 
the  date  where  the  history  cease^,  n.c.  14li,  to  the  accession  of  King  George,  in  18fi2. 
This  part  of  tlie  liook  lias  lieeii  written  by  A.  Orenadins,  late  ProtVs«or  in  the  Univer- 
sii  V  of  Athens,  A  large  colored  map  of  Ancient  Greece  adds  to  tiiu  value  of  the  work." 
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lOrao.,  cloth $1  00 

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to  olptiiin  a  liird's-eye  vi"W  of  hisloricai  lacts,  the  'Landmarks '  will  form  a  very 
convenient  text-book. '' — Schoo  mtmter. 

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"  A  comprehensive  volume." — Albany  Jonrnal 

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BOOKS    ON     BIOGRAPHY 


PUBLISnED   BY 


G.    P.    PUTNAM'S   SONS 


New  York. 


MEN      ?n^rP^^  °^  CONTEMPORARY  STATES- 
MEN.     hdited  bv  Thomas  WKNrwoimi  HrG«,ixs„N. 

Vol.  I.    English  Statesmen.     By  T.  W.  lUg<r\n,on Al 

..   IS"     j;'^"^*^  Political  T.eaders.     By  Edward  Kin-  ....   1 
Or??.     a"i    ^^'*'?^^  Leaders.     By  llorbcrt  T.ittle.  .    1 
^         Ur  to.ir  ^  olumes  luvi.d«omely  bound,  in  box.  $U  00 

^mmm;iVo«,v/rt;o/,fi-/;vtWjrJ  '"^°  *  world-wide  promiiieuce."- 

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lihV.O.  B.  buoTliiNGllAM.      Large  octiivo,  doth    extra  witj. 
portrait  on  steel,  of  the  author. ...  '  '  o  gj) 

oftheolo,^v.a,H{or;ocioSvtor        I     1  ;^^^^^ 

formed  at  last  by  Mr.  l->othi.i.'lia,n    9  to  s'fv  tl        t  V...  •    .      "^  ^    '"^ '","""  •''■'"■ 
It  is  a  book  that^Bhould  be  iu  e^w"  Ky'L')';!;./;,', '^iV;^^^^^^^    "''"  P^^f'""--''- 

.lis,!?  irN.;wESlZi;^S;;£:,nw '"''""  *"  thelustoryof  tran.cendent- 
AUDUBON.     The  Liik  and  Jouknals  ov  Jorix  J  Aiduhon 

THE^^ ATUKALIST.        12tno.  doth,    gi,t  to,.    ^2.20  ;    J.Tlf 'alf; 
.e;:::'::j^^jg:i.^J^l)  •- ;j-<:i- ,]J'ch  loaves  «  nK,re  keen,  adventuro,. 

Pa^iiKER.         A     DrscHKsK    „x    .M.vrnKs    I'l.irrA.N.No 


ii:i<>\. 


^V  u! 


Mv 


riir   ;t  !>i.  > 


i     ■ 


.  TO 

I   \I!I\i:k.      .\(.\v    edition,   with 


?■■ 


RECENT    PUBLICATIONS 

OF 

G.  P.  PUTNAM'S  SONS. 


I 


DODGE.    The  Plains  of  the  Great  West,  and  their  iNHAnn  ants 

A  vivid  and  picturesque  description  of  the  We!(tern  plains  of  the  American 
Continent,  including  accounts  of  the  game,  a  careful  topographical  record,  notei 
of  emigration,  &c.,  &c.,  and  an  exhaustive  account  of  the  life  and  habits  of  the 
Indians  (both  the  "reserved"  and  the  "unreserved"),  their  customs  in  fighting, 
hunting,  marriage,  death,  clothing,  religious  beliefs  and  rites,  &c.,  Ac.  with  some 
suggestions  for  the  treatment  of  the  Indian  question.  By  Richard  Irving 
DoDGB,CoIoneI  in  the  U.S.  Army,  x  brge  octavo  volume  very  fully  illustrated,S4.oo 

Colonel  Dodpe  has,  durini?  ranny  years,  held  positions  of  reHponsiblllty  on  tlie  WeMern 
frimtler,  and  has  enjoyed  exceptional  opportiinitiearo:  obtaining;  an  Intimate  knowledfce  of  the 
lire  and  habits  of  the  Indians,  and  of  the  features  of  the  Kreat  plains  In  which  they  live,  and 
the  record  of  bis  experiences  and  observatiood  will  be  found  not  only  mott  rnscinating  reading, 
but  a  trustworthy  and  authoritative  guide  on  the  subjects  of  which  It  treats. 

VAN  LAUN.    The  History  op  French  Literature. 

By  Hrnri  Van  Laun,  Translator  of  Taine's  "  History  of  English  Literature," 
the  Works  of  Mulidre,  etc.,  etc. 

Vol.  I.-FROM  ITS  ORIGIN  TO  THE  RENAISSANCE. 
Vol.  II.-FROM  THE  RENAISSANCE  TO  LOUIS  XIV. 
Vol.  III.— FROM  LOUIS  XIV.  TO  NAPOLEON  III.    {In  /^rrparativH.) 
8vo,  cloth  extra,  each,  $3.50. 

We  have  to  deal  with  a  people  essentially  cplrited  and  Intellectual,  whose  spirit  and 
intellect  have  been  invariablv  the  wonder  and  inltuiratlon,  if  not  the  model  and  mould,  of 
contemporary  thoiii;ht,  and  wnose  literary  triinnphH  remain  to  this  day  amouK  the  most  nutahle 
landmarks  of  modnrn  literature.    •    •    *    Extract  jrom  Author^ a  Preface. 

THE  BEST   READING.    A  Classified  Bihliography  for  Easy 

Rbfrrbncb.  With  Hints  on  the  Selection  of  Books,  the  Formation  of  Libraries, 
on  Courses  of  Reading,  etc.  tsth  Edition.  Entirely  re-written  and  hroucht 
down  to  August,  1876,  with  the  addition  of  priced  lists  of  the  best  books  in 
French.  German,  Spanish  and  Italian  Literature.  8vo,  paper,  $1.25;  cloth,  f  1.75. 
"  By  far  the  best  work  of  the  kind."— Cottoffe  Uouratit. 

THE  SELECT  BRITISH  ESSAYISTS.    A  series  planned  to  consist 

of  half  a  dozen  volumes,  comprising  the  Representative  Papers  of  TAe  Spectator, 

TatleTy  Guardian,  Rambler^  Lounger,  Mirror^  Looker-On,  etc.,  etc.     Edited, 

with  Introduction  and  Biographical  Sketches  of  the  Authors,  by  John  HABBRRmM. 

Vol.  I.— THE    SPECTATOR.    By  Addison  and   Stbblb.    Square  r6mo. 

beautifully  printed,  and  tastefully  bound  in  cloth  extra.  Si. 25 

This  series  has  been  planned  to  preserve,  and  to  present  In  a  form  at  once  attrfictlve  and 
ecMiomtcal,  the  permanently  valuable  portions  of  those  standard  productioni  of  the  EsHHyiHU. 
which,  aa  well  for  the  perfection  of  their  English  style,  as  for  the  sterling  worth  of  their 
Batt<ir  are  deservedly  perennial. 

Vol.  a.    SIR  ROGER  DE  COVERLY  PAPERS.     From    Tkt  Spectator 

One  volume,  i6mo,  (i.oo. 

■'  Mr.  Habberton  has  kI^^h  ns  a  truly  readable  and  deliRhtful  selection  from  a  series  of 
VAlnmes  that  oUKht  possibly  never  to  go  out  of  fashion,  but  whii-h  )■.>  ilif  re.iKuii  uf  tItM' 
lasfth  and  •llgl'tly  antli|uaied  form  tliere  is  danKer  ol  uur  ov«<rl<Hikiiit(.—  /.I'wrul  t'hi itlitin 


Bayard  Taylor's  Novels. 

I.  HANNAH  THURSTON.     A  Story  jf  American  Lite 
Oiie  voL  lamo,  (a.     Household  edition $i  ji 

"  If  Kayard  Taylor  has  not  placed  himself,  as  we  are  half  inclined  to  sut)iect,  in 
ihe  front  rank  of  novelists,  he  has  produced  a  very  remarkable  book— a  really 
original  story,  admirably  told,  crowded  with  life-like  chanicters,  full  of  delicat* 
and  subde  sympathies,  with  ideas  the  most  opposite  to  his  own,  and  lighted  u[< 
ihroughout  with  that  playful  humor  which  suggests  always  wisdom  rather  thab 
mere  Tun." — Louiion  Sf>ectator. 

II.  JOHN  GODFREY'S  FORTUNES.     Related  by  Him- 

Belt.     lamo,  $3.     Huiisehold  edition $1  5c 

"  'John  Godfrey's  Fortunes,'  without  beint;  melodramatic  or  morbid,  is  one  of 
the  niust  fascinating  novels  which  we  have  ever  read.  Its  portraiture  of  American 
iocial  life,  though  not  flattering,  is  eminently  truthful ;  its  delineaticn  of  charactei 
's  delicate  and  natural ;  its  Knglish,  though  sometimes  careless,  is  singularly  grat^ 
fill  and  pleasant."— CVrt/r/rtw*?  Leader. 

III.  THE  STORY  OF  KENNETT.     One  vol.  i2mo,  $2. 

Household  edition $1  yi 

"Mr.  Bayard  Taylor's  book  is  delightful  and  re/reshing  rending,  and  a 
great  rest  after  the  crowded  aitistic  effects  and  the  convcntiunal  interests  of  even 
me  better  kind  of  English  novels." — London  Spectator. 

"As  a  picture  of  rural  life,  we  think  this  novel  of  Mr.  I'aylor's  excels  any  of  hit 
previous  productions." — A^  1'.  Evening  Post. 

"A  tale  of  absorbing  interest." — Syracuse  Standard. 

IV.  JOSEPH  AND    HIS   FRIEND.     A  Story  of  Penn- 

■ylvania.     lamo,  cloth,  $a.     Household  edition $1  5: 

"  In  Kayard  Taylor's  happiest  vein." — Buffalo  Express. 
*'  By  far  the  best  novel  of  the  season." — Cleveland  Leader. 

V.  BEAUTY  AND  THE  BEAST  and  TALES  OF 

HOME.     lamo,  cloth,  $1.75.     Household  edition 9'  w 


Bayard  Taylor's  Travels. 


ELDORADO ;    or,    Advent  ares    in    the    Path   of   Empire 

,         (Mexico  and  California),    tamo,  $2.    Household  edition $1  5* 

"  To  those  who  have  more  recently  pitched  their  tents  in  California,  the  narra- 
tive of  Taylor  vill  have  interest  as  assisting  them  to  appreciate  the  wontlroiu 
changes  that  have  been  effected  in  this  region  since  the  days  of  turmoil,  excite- 
)nent,  and  daring  speculation  of  which  the  tourist  %^Gaks.'*--Sacramento  Union. 

CENTRAL  AFRICA.     Life  and  Landscape  from  Cairo  to  the 

White  Nile.    Two  plates  and  cuts      lamo,  $a.     Household  edition.. .  .$1  5c 

"  We  have  read  many  of  Bayard  Taylor's  readable  books— and  he  never  wrr.te 

one  that  was  not  extremely  interesting— but  we  have  never  been  so  well  pleated 

witli  any  of  his  writings  as  we  are  with  the  volume  now  before  us,  '  A  Journey  fo 

Central  Airica.'  "—Bing/iamton  Republican. 

GREECE  AND  RUSSIA.    With  an  Excvtraion  to  Ciete. 

Two  plates,     lamo,  $a.     Household  edition •«  S« 

"  In  point  of  flowing  narrative  and  graphic  description,  this  volume  k  fiiUy 
•4iial  to  the  previous  works  which  have  given  Mr.  Bayard  Taylor  Mich  an  ( 
•ot  place  among  modern  travellers."— //<*r/<?r'*  Monthiv. 


lifl 

'( 

n 'i^H    ' 

|^i|t 

I'f 

Hi 

/ 

v\ 

nmi 


|l:ii  ^ 

'  ''^i 

HOME  AND  ABROAD.   A  Sketch-book  of  Life,  Scenery, 

•n(^  Men.    Two  plates.     lamo,  ^a.     Hotisehold  edition $i  sc 

——  (Second  Series )    With  two  plates.    lamo,  §3.    Household  edition,  9i  f» 

"Thii  w  one  of  the  most  interesting;  books  thnt  H.;yard  Taylor  has  ever  made. 
It  it  in  a  lattfe  measure  autobiographical.  Whatever  has  most  impressed  him  ip 
■ny  part  of  the  earth  is  noted  in  some  one  oHthese  letters." — Taunton  GtiitiU 

"A  volume  from  Bayard  Taylor  is  always  a  pleasure.  He  not  only  kiin\»:»  ho* 
to  travel  and  how  to  enjoy  it,  bur  he  excels  m  giving  enteruiinnient  Liy  his  narrfe 
tion  to  others." — Bangor  Whig. 

INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN.     Two  plates.      i2mo,  f2. 

Household  edition $1  50 

"Of  all  travellers,  no  one  pleases  tis  more  itinn  l^ayard  Taylor,  He  sees  whal 
we  most  desire  that  he  should  see,  and  he  tells  us  that  which  we  most  desire  t9 
know." — N*tv  Bedford  Afercitry. 

LAND  OF  THE  SARACEN;  or,  Pictures  of  Palestine, 
Asia  Minor,  Sicily,  and  Spain.  With  two  |:lates.  lamo,  $a.  House- 
hold edition $1  5c 

NORTHERN  TRAVEL.  Summer  and  Winter  Pictures 
of  Sweden,  Denmark,  and  Lapland.  \^'!th  two  plates.  lamo,  $a. 
Household  edition {i  50 

"There  is  no  romance  to  us  quite  equal  to  one  of  Bayard  Taylor's  books  oi 
tnyith"— Hartford  Republican. 

VIEWS  AFOOT;   or,  Europe  seen  with  Knapsack  and 

Staft.     lamo,  $a.     Household  edition $1  50 

"Wenoed  <iay  nothing  L.  praise  of  Bayard  Taylor's  writings.  He  travels  in 
every  direction,  ami  sees  and  hears  pretty  much  all  that  is  worth  seeing  and  hear- 
ing. His  descriptions  are  accurate,  and  always  reliable  and  interesting." — 
Syracuse  Journal. 

BY-WAYS    OF    EUROPE.      121x10,    $2.      Household   edi- 

tion d>  so 

Contents  : 

A  Familiar  Letter  to  the  Reader.  A  Cruise  on  Lake  Lagoda.  Betweer 
Europe  and  Asia.  Winter-Life  in  St.  Petersburgh.  'I'he  Little  Land  of  Appen 
cell.  From  Perpignan  to  Montserrat.  Balearic  1  >ays.  Catalonian  Bridle-Roadi 
The  Republic  of  the  Pyrenees.  I'he  Grand  Chartreuse.  The  KyfThauser  anc 
its  Legends,  A  Week  at  Capri.  A  Trip  to  Ischia.  The  Land  of  Paoli.  Tha 
Island  of  Madualena.     In  the  i'cutoberger  Forest.     The  Suabian  Alp. 

'■'■■■  »  ■    , 

:  BAYARD  TAYLOR'S  COMPLETE  WORKS.    ' 


I)     <f! 


THE  COMPLETE  WORKS  OF  BAYARD  TAYLOR. 

In   fifteen  volumes.     People's   edition,    cloth,    $30.      Household    edi- 
tion Saa  50 

TUB    TRAVELS,   separate,    ten  volumes,    122.5a      House- 
bold  edition $13  <>• 

^^  Stnt  post-paid^  on  receipt  of  price,  by 

G.P.PUTNAM'S    SONS,  Pi'BLTSHERS 

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Bayard  Taylor's  Novels. 


I.  HANNAH  THURSTON.    A  Story  of  American  Lib 
One  voL  lamo,  ^a.    Household  edition fi  ji 

**  ir  Bayard  Taylor  has  not  pkwed  himself,  as  we  are  half  inclined  to  suspect,  ia 
die  front  rank  of  novelists,  he  has  produced  a  very  remarkable  book— a  really 
original  story,  admirably  told,  crowded  with  life-like  characters,  fiiU  of  delicate 
and  tubde  sympathies,  with  ideas  die  most  opposite  to  his  own,  and  lighted  up 
throughout  with  that  playful  humor  which  suggc^  *  -  always  wisdom  rather  thai* 
mere  lun." — London  Spectator. 

II.  JOHN  GODFREY'S  FORTUNES.    Related  by  Him- 
self,   zamo^  $a.     Household  edidori $15* 

'* 'John  Godfrey'sFortunes^*  without  being  melodramatic  or  morbid,  is  v>ne of 
the  most  fascinating  novels  which  we  have  ever  read.  Its  portraiture  of  American 
social  life,  though  not  flattering,  is  eminendy  truthful ;  its  delineation  of  chara'^tei 
<s  delicate  and  natural ;  its  English,  though  sometimes  careless,  is  singularly  grate* 
lul  and  pleasant"— Ci(mir/<>»a  Ltader.  ■  % 

III.  THE  STORY  OF  KENNETT.     One  vol.  i2mo,  %2. 
Household  edition $1  s« 

*'Mr.  Bayard  Taylor's  hodk.  is  delightful  and  refreshing  reading,  and  » 
great  rest  after  tiie  ciowded  artisdc  effects  and  the  convendonal  interests  of  even 
Uie  better  kind  of  English  novels." — London  Spectator. 

"As  a  picture  of  rural  life,  we  think  this  novel  of  Mr.  Taylor's  excels  any  of  hit 
previous  productions."— AT.  Y.  Evening  Poet. 

"A  tale  of  absorbmg  vaMexviX.**— Syracuse  Standard. 

IV.  JOSEPH  AND   HIS  FRIEND.     A  Story  of  Penn- 
sylvania,   lamo,  doth,  (a.    Household  edition %\  5» 

"  In  Bayard  Taylor's  happiest  vfxsi?^— Buffalo  Express. 
"  By  far  the  best  novel  of  the  season." — Cleveland  Leader. 

V.  BEAUTY    AND    THE    BEAST    and    TALES    OF 
HOME.     lamo,  cloth,  #1.75.    Household  edition I*  «e 


Bayard  Taylor's  Travels. 


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■.<il! 


ELDORADO;    or,   Adventures   in  the   Path  of  Empire 

( Mexico  and  California).    lamo,  ^a.    Household  edidon $1  5* 

"  To  those  who  have  more  recendy  pitched  their  tents  in  California,  the  narra- 
tive of  Taylor  will  have  interest  as  assisting  them  to  appreciate  the  wondrous 
dianges  that  have  been  effected  in  this  region  since  the  days  of  turmoil,  excite- 
ment, and  daring  speciilauon  o»  which  the  tourist  speaks."— Sacramento  Union, 

CENTRAL  AFRICA.  Luc  and  Landscape  from  Cairo  to  the 
White  Nile.  Two  plates  and  cuts  lamc,  $a.  Household  edidon.. .  .fi  50 
"  We  have  read  many  of  Bayard  Taylor's  read*.hle  books— op.d  he  never  wrote 
one  thaj  was  not  extremely  interesting— but  we  have  never  been  so  well  plea!,cd 
with  aiiy  of  his  writmgs  as  we  are  widi  the  volume  now  before  us,  'ii  Journey  W 
Central  Africa.* " — Binghamton  Republican, 

GREECE' AND  RUSSIA.  With  an  Excision  to  Crete. 
Twoplates,    xamo,  (a.     Household  edition •»  S> 

**  Id  point  fA  flowing  narrative  and  graphic  de'xription,  this  volume  it  fiilh 
•qua!  to  the  previous  works  wl.ich  have  given  M:.  Bayard  Taylor  such  an  epu 

wt  place  among  modem  tr.»vellers."— ^wr/w'*  Monthtv. 


nmm^. 


HOME  AND  ABROAD.   A  Sketch-book  of  Life,  Scenery, 

mnU  Men.    Two  plates.    lamo,  fa.  .  Household  edition fx  jc 

'  (S«oond  Series )    With  two  plates,    xamo,  $a.    Household  edition,  fx  5« 

"This  \i  one  of  the  most  interesting  books  that  Bnyard  Taylor  has  ever  made 
It  is  in  a  laMe  measure  autobiographical.    Whatever  has  most  impressed  him  in 
Biqr  part  of  the  earth  is  noted  in  some  one  oT  these  letters." — Tauuton  Caatttt 

"  A  volume  from  Bayard  Taylor  is  always  a  pleasure.  He  not  only  knows  \\o^ 
to  travel  and  how  to  enjoy  it,  but  he  excels  in  giving  entertainment  by  his  narrb 
lion  to  others." — Bangor  WAig, 

INDIA,  CHINA,  AND  JAPAN.  Two  plates.  i2mo,  |2. 
Household  edition $i  jo 

"  Of  »U  travellers,  no  one  pleases  us  more  than  Bayard  Taylor.  He  sees  what 
we  most  desire  that  he  should  see,  and  he  tells  us  that  which  we  most  desin  to 
knoiv."—'N*io  Bedford  Mercury. 

LAND  OF  THE  SARACEN;  or,  Pictures  of  Palestine, 
Asia  Minor,  Sicily,  and  Spain.  With  two  plates,  ^smo,  fa.  House- 
hold edition %\  5c 

NORTHERN  TRAVEL.  Summer  and  Winter  Pictures 
of  Sweden,  Denmark,  and  Lapland.  With  two  plates.  lamo,  fa. 
Household  edition fi  50 

"There  is  no  romance  to  us  quite  equal  to  one  of  Bayard  Tayloi'i  books  ol 
tnyfl."— Hartford  Republkan. 

VIEWS  AFOOT;   or,  Europe  seen  with  Knapsack  and 

Staff.    lamo,  fa.     Household  edition f  i  50 

"We  need  say  nothing  i.  praise  of  Bayard  Taylor's  writings.  He  travels  in 
every  direction,  ana  sees  and  hears  pretty  much  all  that  is  worth  seeing  and  hear- 
ing. His  descriptions  are  accurate,  and  always  reliable  and  interesting." — 
Syracus*  Journal. 

BY-WAYS  OF  EUROPE.  i2mo,  fz.  Household  edi- 
tion fs  50 

Contents  : 

A  Familjar  Letter  to  the  Reader.  A  Cruise  on  Lake  Lagoda.  Betweer 
Europe  and  Asia.  Winter-Life  in  St.  Petersburgh.  The  Little  Land  of  Appen 
■ell.  From  Perpignan  to  Montserrat.  Balearic  Days.  Catalonian  Bridte-Roadi 
The  Republic  of  the  Pyrenees.  The  Grand  Chartreuse.  The  KyiThauser  ant 
its  Legends,  A  Week  at  Capri.  A  Trip  to  Ischia.  The  Land  of  Paoli.  The 
bland  of  Maddalena.    In  the  Teutoberger  Forest,    llie  Suabian  Alp. 


BMkRD  TAYLOR'S  COMPLETE  WORKS. 


THE  COMPLETE  WORKS  OF  BAYARD  TAYLOR. 
In  fifteen  volumes.  People's  edition,  cloth,  f  so.  Household  edi- 
tion  faa  50 

TUB  TRAVELS,  separate,  ten  volumes,  f22.5a  House- 
hold edition fis  <>■ 

%•  Stmt  pott-paid,  on  receipt  0/  price,  by 

0.  P.  PUTNAM'S   SONS,  PrBLiSHERS 


•UCfbi. 


